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View Full Version : My 1st Attempt @ Live Stage Photography


petecrosta
28th of June 2008 (Sat), 23:42
C&C encouraged. Local HS play: FAME (the musical). Shot 5D ASA1600 (spot meter) w/EF100 f/2 lens using monopod.
#1 (ISO 1600 1/10 @ f/6.3 +1.67)
http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/9836/famethurs070adb8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#2 (ISO 1600 1/80 @ f/6.3 +.33)
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/2250/famethurs115amu9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#3 (ISO 1600 1/50 @ f/5 +2)
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/783/famethurs069adu0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#4 (ISO 1600 1/10 @ f/6.3 +1.67)
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/3079/famethurs023adh3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#5 (ISO 1600 1/50 @ f/5 +2)
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6200/famesat1pm122afm6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#6 (ISO 1600 1/100 @ f/4.5 +.67)
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/1089/famesat1pm119acy7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#7 (ISO 1600 1/160 @ f/4.5 +33)
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/3215/famesat1pm107adv0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
#8 (ISO 1600 1/6 @ f/5 +1.33)
http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/1856/famefri089aif3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

johnstoy
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 05:41
Looks like you have the wrong picture links pasted into your post...None of the pics are showing up...

petecrosta
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 06:52
Looks like you have the wrong picture links pasted into your post...None of the pics are showing up...Sorry ... all fixed (I wasn't kidding when I said "first attempts"). Thank you for pointing out the flaw.

johnstoy
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 08:59
There is some motion blur, camera shake and softness in most of your pics... f2. on the 100mm is still pretty slow...

I would say your best lens for this event would have been the 70-200mm f2.8L IS....because it has IS...

If you used the 24-70 f2.8 wide open at f2.8, it also tends to be a little soft.... and without IS, at slow shutter speeds, it's tough to work with...

Indoor, low light shooters, sacrifice *noise/grain* for high ISO... as in ISO 1600 or even 3200... Thereafter, in post processing I try to compensate with noise reduction software...

In your case, shutter speed and aperture are key...

Here is a link to a EXIF program you might be interested in... It's free and takes just a couple of seconds to download.

http://www.opanda.com/en/index.html

It will enable you to right click on a digital picture... Choose Opanda EXIF retriever, and you will get all of the picture properties regarding same.

Because of extensive post processing, all of your images lack EXIF data, however, if you go back to th original picture files, it will be intact.

Compare and study your Camera settings including Mode of operation, ISO, shutter speed, focal length, Aperture, and all of the other groovy info that helps you decide what is best for your style.

Next time, I'd skip the mono-pod and take the IS lens instead.

I'd also work on the composition and framing... some limbs are cut off in these pics and I'd recommend trying to keep them in.

Is this a typical event that you'll be shooting?

petecrosta
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 09:12
Thank you for your feedback. I was planted in the front row and had my 3 lenses available. I did want to be obscure so I thought (poorly, I suppose) the 100 was the best choice for framing. Much moment (w/spot metering) also made me shy away from the longer lens. I was "afraid" to shoot in RAW, so only Large JPEG selected. I'm puzzled at your recommendation for Opanda software. Is this something that Photoshop CS2 cannot handle? Not exactly sure what is missing (sorry). Want to learn, however!! :)

johnstoy
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 09:37
In this case, none of your above photos have any EXIF data available... I was primarily looking for each picture's shutter speed and aperture.

Use EXIF Data to quickly review your own photo properties settings... Or use it to review and study other's photos and the conditions they were taken under...

PS-CS2 initially doesn't strip the EXIF info from your pictures... however after extensive processing, and possibly using other software to post process along the way, the EXIF is stripped away....

CS-2 does a wonderful job of converting RAW files... So does Canon's Digital Photo Professional and even Zoom Browser...Try it on one or two pics...It's easy, and it will give you greater leeway in exposure adjustments.

petecrosta
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 10:05
In this case, none of your above photos have any EXIF data available... I was primarily looking for each picture's shutter speed and aperture.Much thanks again. Seems this Opanda IExif is only for Win98 / Me / 2000 / XP. In my signature I indicate I'm a Macintosh user. Oh well ....

Do you think this data you are seeking was erased when while in PS I saved for web (optimized)? Had I just did a normal JPEG save, would that data have been preserved? I guess I'm trying to find out what "I" did to erase the data. Is it because the images were (are) stored on ImageShack rather than uploaded directly here? I'm anxious to discover my shortcomings on the software side as well as the photographic end. What program SPECIFICALLY do I need to obtain from Opanda.com?

Note: I went back to all my data in Bridge and added ISO, Exposure and Exposure Bias Values. I added this above each image in the original (#1) post.

johnstoy
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 10:22
If you're on the MAC you might need to find a different freeware program...

I'd search around the web for one specifically for the MAC. There are a few out there...

Some applications prompt you when your EXIF data is not going to be saved... It's lost somewhere in the transition stages between programs and their processes.

johnstoy
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 10:28
Here is a link to a POTN thread:

Keeping EXIF data when you "Save for Web"?

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=34362&highlight=EXIF

petecrosta
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 10:37
John, you are been SO helpful!!! Thank you!! I took the time to re-upload and make the EXIF data available. I hope I did it correctly!

bacchanal
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 12:42
Pete, based on the shot data you posted your shutter speeds are generally too slow. Open the lens up to f/2.8 or f/2 and you'd get acceptable shutter speeds. Also, are the +/- numbers that you list adjustments in processing or camera +/- EC? Generally with a light subject on a dark bg, you would use -EC, not +EC.

petecrosta
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 15:21
Pete, based on the shot data you posted your shutter speeds are generally too slow. Open the lens up to f/2.8 or f/2 and you'd get acceptable shutter speeds. Also, are the +/- numbers that you list adjustments in processing or camera +/- EC? Generally with a light subject on a dark bg, you would use -EC, not +EC.Camera adjustments. I just coupled the EXIF data, if that is helpful.

danielhoney2
29th of June 2008 (Sun), 16:32
I would shoot aperature priority or manual. Open that aperture up to 2 or 2.8 and shoot like that. You will cure two problems - camera shake and motion blur (caused by your subjects). You will also have a nice background blur, and you will want to make sure you af is smack on. I normally shoot with center point only when i shoot with my 50 f/1.8 on my 400D - af on the 1.8 is crap and slow enough anyway without adding more points.

I think the focal length you choose was good. Photo 5 seems like the right sort of framing I would want. I wouldn't shoot with the 24-70 for two reasons: IS won't help stop subject movement (just camera shake), and for me 2.8 wouldn't be fast enough for a lot of low light photography, and the focal lenght might not be long enough. You seem to have some decentish shutter speeds even with quite small aperatures and the 24-70 would give you versatlilty with different framing. That being said there is no reason why you couldn't have shoot with both lens at different times.

1/10 and 1/6 of a second just isn't fast enough! Keep at it though.

Cheers,
Daniel

johnstoy
30th of June 2008 (Mon), 02:58
Pete... since you already own the 70-200mm f2.8L IS, just know that it is one of the very best lenses for Performing Arts... Here is an example of the IS doing it's job... Unless you've got $4,000+ to spend on the 300mm f2.8L IS, there is nothing better...

Motion blur can actually enhance the photo, by adding a sense of action to the photo.

Here is an original photo of a drummer taken hand held, from 70 feet away, at 200mm, with the Canon 70-200mm f2.8L IS... The ISO is 3200 and the shutter speed is 1/25th of a second... EXIF is intact.

#1. http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l60/stoy17/Clapton%20Retrospective/IMG_20070623_9999_383-1.jpg

#2 is cropped from the above original shot...:D

#2. http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l60/stoy17/Clapton%20Retrospective/IMG_20070623_9999_383.jpg

René Damkot
30th of June 2008 (Mon), 09:37
I agree that the shutterspeeds used were too slow. Open up that aperture ;)
Some nice images otherwise.

If you are using FireFox, there are some Add-Ons for reading the EXIF.
I use FxIF and Exif Viewer.

There is also something for Safari IIRC, and you can use this: Click (http://regex.info/exif.cgi).