Currently using a 6-bit TN Monitor...Can this be used for PP?

[Pat H]

I've just recently started getting back into photography, so at the time I purchased my monitor 8 months ago I wasn't exactly thinking color accuracy...more about $$$. I currently have a Samsung SyncMaster 245BW 24" with a 6-bit TN panel. For the most part it's suited my needs (I also do video editing which it's usually fine for), but I'm slightly concerned that for photography PP (and maybe some tough video color situations as well), it will end up failing me.

For example, if I drag a small image to the top of the monitor, it's just slightly darker than if I drag it to the bottom. Bad, I know, but is it serious enough that I should have to go out and throw down the cash on a new monitor (which I'd like to avoid since I just got a new lens), or would I be better off for now just trying to calibrate my current monitor as accurately as possible.

And if the 2nd option is better, what tools would you suggest to do so? And if it helps, I'm currently using a Mac Pro, so any utilities would have to be OSX-based.

Thanks :)

[ChasP505]

I'm offering an opinion because your situation sounds like mine, including the Samsung monitor... If you are are a professional photographer, your livelihood depends on having professional equipment. Then definitely, invest in your career and get a better monitor.

If you are an avid amateur on a careful budget (I have a mortgage, two kids in college and a car loan), then that 245BW with a good calibration should suffice for now. At the office I use a Samsung 225BW to PP real estate photos destined for a monthly magazine. It does a fine job. I also do some Adobe Illustrator and InDesign work with the same monitor.

The third option is, if you are an avid amateur with no major financial obligations, then by all means, buy whatever equipment you want!

For calibrating hardware, I use a Spyder2 Pro.

[tim]

The brightness thing is mildly worrying, but I wouldn't buy a new monitor for it. Just calibrate it so the color's reasonably accurate, and anything that's color or brightness critical put in the middle of the screen where the calibrator sat. Or just trust your histogram, that's what I do.

Also remember just because you can't see information doesn't mean it's there.

[Pat H]

I'm offering an opinion because your situation sounds like mine, including the Samsung monitor... If you are are a professional photographer, your livelihood depends on having professional equipment. Then definitely, invest in your career and get a better monitor.

If you are an avid amateur on a careful budget (I have a mortgage, two kids in college and a car loan), then that 245BW with a good calibration should suffice for now. At the office I use a Samsung 225BW to PP real estate photos destined for a monthly magazine. It does a fine job. I also do some Adobe Illustrator and InDesign work with the same monitor.

The third option is, if you are an avid amateur with no major financial obligations, then by all means, buy whatever equipment you want!

For calibrating hardware, I use a Spyder2 Pro.

Thanks for the insight. I probably fall into the third category, since I'm still in college and am very fortunate not to have any major loans to pay off, but I suppose I may be better off saving my money for other things (like new lenses and maybe a new camera body down the road). Personally I like the monitor, it's sharp and bright. It's just the color accuracy that's a little off. But since I won't be making a living off of it I guess you have a very good point. Good to hear that someone else uses a similar monitor and not an expensive reference display :)


The brightness thing is mildly worrying, but I wouldn't buy a new monitor for it. Just calibrate it so the color's reasonably accurate, and anything that's color or brightness critical put in the middle of the screen where the calibrator sat. Or just trust your histogram, that's what I do.

Also remember just because you can't see information doesn't mean it's there.

I do try to keep things in the middle of the display, which I guess is the sweet spot from the angle I'm viewing it at. And I know I really do have to start referencing the histogram. As an amateur I really haven't mastered the mathematics of photography yet, and only have a very basic understanding of how to read a histogram.

[ChasP505]

The brightness thing is mildly worrying, but I wouldn't buy a new monitor for it.

Part of the calibration routine requires you to manually adjust the monitor's Brightness setting to achieve the luminance setting you specify. I have the white luminance set at 120 cd/m on the home PC and I use 140 cd/m at the office. The consumer level Samsung LCDs are blazingly bright right out the box but they are very adjustable and respond well to calibration.

My last opinion on this is if you still have doubts about the Samsung 245BW, sell it quickly before it becomes obsolete and while you still can get most of your money back. The longer you hold on to it, the more you'll stress about it and less money you'll get for it when you sell it.

[tim]

My Samsung is down to a brightness of 55 and calibrates well.

[Right Cranium Imaging]

I use two similar Samsung monitors and was not really happy with them at first. Then I bought a Sypder 3 calibrator and I am completely satisfied. Honestly I dont buy into the super expensive monitor with all the bells and whistles with the 360 degree viewing angle etc etc etc.

Last I checked most people dont edit photos from the side of their monitor, they sit in front of it. As long as your prints come out matching what is on your monitor then you are good to go.

Another photographer friend of mine did an experiment and purchased a very expensive "photo" monitor with a return policy to see what the hype was all about. Honestly side by side with my other monitors and calibrated they were the same and printed the same. The only real difference was the viewing angle and again I sit in front of the monitor.

My opinion, save your money. Just because it is expensive and has a long list of "features" does not mean its better.

[tim]

I agree with RCI, but i'd love one of those 360 degree viewing angle monitors! :p

[ChasP505]

I use two similar Samsung monitors and was not really happy with them at first. Then I bought a Sypder 3 calibrator and I am completely satisfied.

The following questions are not "How do I do it" questions, but more like "How do YOU do it":

RCI (or anyone else who uses a Spyder)... When you initially run the software, it asks you what controls your monitor has. The choices are Brightness, Contrast, and Backlight. The Help file explains that some "Brightness" controls are really just "Backlight". Which do you choose for your LCD calibration, Brightness or Backlight?

Secondly, do you start your calibration with the monitor control reset to factory defaults (full blazing brightness on a Samsung LCD) as instructed, or do you already have the Brightness cranked down before calibrating?

Finally, do you run the calibration and then adjust the Brightness OSD control AFTER you've calibrated the monitor?

I've done all of the above with varying results. I'm asking these questions out of curiosity.