Single point AF for portraits?

[jbone]

I am a big fan of using the single center af point for focusing on subjects. But, when shooting potraits I was wondering what everyone does when using the center af point. Do you focus on the eyes for instance then recompose the shot? Do you use all of the af points for prttraits, or do you select the af point for each picture then shoot? I really like shooting with the center af point only, but dont want the person to be on the center of the frame each time. I hope you understand what im trying to ask.:o

[cdifoto]

Use the focus point that covers the part of the subject you want in focus when framed as desired. They're all accurate enough.

[sandpiper]

I use the focus point which is nearest to the eye I want to focus on, eliminating, or at least minimising, the amount of movement when recomposing (and therefore minimising the chances of losing focus between focusing and shooting).

This gives more accurate focusing results than centre AF & recompose.

[BillMarks]

I use center focus and recompose.

[jbone]

ok thanks for the replys!! I guess it comes down to preference. Ill have to try different ways out and see what works best. I just wasnt sure if there was a preferred(sp?) method for doing it. Thanks again!!

[Croasdail]

If your going to use AF, and are using a camera that has AF that are really spread out like the 20/30/40 plus all the 4xx series bodies, the focus then recompose is the best answer. I always focus on the eyes because if they are not tac sharp, nothing else matters. And on the above mentioned cameras, they almost never line up with any focus points.

But honestly, for portraits, I usually go old school and turn AF off. I have had 1 too many shots with the wrong spot in key focus because either I or the subject wiggled. Manual focus helps kill that problem. Wigglage still nabs the occasional shot, but it is a lot more accurate then having the camera guess what I want.

cheers

[sadatk]

Focus--recompose--then adjust manually. USM/HSM lens are your friends with FTM. ;)

[Riff Raff]

I compose, recompose so that one of the nine AF points lines up over an eye, choose that focus point, and finally focus generally. Ye olde focus and recompose technique is good for getting out of focus portraits at larger apertures. I wasn't necessarily happy with the performance of the non-center focus points on the Rebel XTi in low light, but with the 40D they're all good so I always choose the focus point that's closest to the eye(s).

[Hedley]

Can't really focus/recompose on my 400 as the *key is set to exposure lock. Portraits I generally manual focus anyway. It's the one type of photograph I actually seem to have time to plan it exactly as I want, so no need to rush.
I can then compose as I want and also get that slightly more satisfied feeling that comes when looking at an image from full manual...

[Krapo]

I use focus and recompose when I'm far enough from the subject, so that the focus distance is not affected.
It's not the best solution since it will fail if the subject moves. For still portraits, I would use non-center AF points. For candids, focus and recompose.

[yogestee]

As Francois mentioned focusing and recomposing can be problematic.. Any movement from the subject especially when using small apertures/tele lenses etc your image can be out of focus..

Any critical focusing I manually focus,,,compose - focus - shoot..

[Double Negative]

DO NOT focus and recompose. DO NOT just use the center AF point. Both of these will lead to focus errors, especially on primes with wide apertures. These are probably the single most common causes for "is my lens soft?" threads.

Frame your scene as you like. Select the AF point that's closest to your subject's nearest eye (or whatever) and shoot. If there isn't an AF point directly over what you need, you can fudge it a little and move the framing until it is, focus and then correct your framing to what it was.

[Gatorboy]

+1 to Double Negative

Why Focus-Recompose Sucks (http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm)

You've got several focus points to select, why rely on the one dead center?

[polarbare]

my * button is set to AFlock. Instead of using the closest AF point (which probably isn't directly over their eye/face I use the center, lock the focus and recompose.. no soft shots.

[Double Negative]

my * button is set to AFlock. Instead of using the closest AF point (which probably isn't directly over their eye/face I use the center, lock the focus and recompose.. no soft shots.

Do you shoot with bright primes at say, f/1.2-1.8 or so?

[polarbare]

sometimes, the 85 f1.2 and 50 f1.4 immediately come to mind.

granted the DOF can be paper thin at portrait distances (particularly the 85) but so far it hasn't been an issue.

Using a DOF calculator at 4 meters the 85 gives me a little over an inch of sharp focus which ain't much. I think we all tend to agree that the eyes are the most important part of a portrait, if they're wrong it just won't look right. So IMO it's better to focus on the eye and risk shifting the plane more than 1" when i move my camera (tripod isn't going anyway far), than to use a focus point that may be on a cheek, forehead, nose, chin, ear and hope it's not more than an inch off.

Not saying my way is the correct way by any means, but it does work for me.

[Double Negative]

Not saying my way is the correct way by any means, but it does work for me.

I guess that's all that matters in the end. :)

[polarbare]

agreed!

[Krapo]

To come back to the OP's question on using all AF points, I guess we all agree it's not really an option. You can't know what the camera is going to focus on.
In the end, it's one AF point focusing, either center or non-center.

[bohdank]

Portraits at 1.8 with a moderate tele. Why ?

I find nothing flattering with just 1 eye in focus ;-)

[goatee]

Portraits at 1.8 with a moderate tele. Why ?

I find nothing flattering with just 1 eye in focus ;-)

I don't know, but at times, it can be very flattering :)
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/165/414671272_4d5f95254d.jpg?v=0

[Krapo]

I don't know, but at times, it can be very flattering :)


Very nice indeed!

Was it with your 70-200?

[Double Negative]

Portraits at 1.8 with a moderate tele. Why ?

I find nothing flattering with just 1 eye in focus ;-)

Depends on your distance. At 10-15' or so you'd have the entire face in focus. Closer up and/or closer to f/1.2 is when you start to have just one eye in focus, but that also depends on the angle of the subject to the camera...

[goatee]

Thanks :D - that was with my (ex) 85mm f/1.8 at f/1.8.

Very nice indeed!

Was it with your 70-200?

[poloman]

Another, very important factor here is the difference in distance to the subject at the center focal point as compared to say the upper left one. If you are close to your subject, this is accentuated. Think about the center focal point being on their navel and the upper left point on their eye. At close distances the difference in the distance to each point on the body can be substantial. I think this is the major problem with focus and recompose.

[sandpiper]

To come back to the OP's question on using all AF points, I guess we all agree it's not really an option. You can't know what the camera is going to focus on.
In the end, it's one AF point focusing, either center or non-center.

Absolutely.

All-points AF tends to focus on the nearest point which (assuming it selects the model at all) could be the chest (particularly with larger ladies ;)), stomach, shoulder, an arm whatever. In close up portraits it is quite likely to pick the tip of the nose which would leave the eyes soft at large apertures.

With single point, you get to decide what you want to focus on.

[jbone]

thank you all very much for the insight!! When taking more of a "candid" portrait/photo lets say of kids running around the house, weddings, and so on do you still select the focus point for each picture? It just seems like it takes a lot of time to figure out your composition, change the focus point in the camera, and then compose-focus-shoot. Especially in a fast moving environment. However, I understand that in a more formal portrait shoot you would have the time.

(I hope you understand what im getting at). Thanks again!!

[ten1437]

what do u all mean by recompose?

[jbone]

oh and "gatorboy" that link helped it explain it perfectly thanks!!

[ilantis]

what do u all mean by recompose?
If I am not mistaken, it means letting the camera autofocus by pressing the shutter button 1/2 way down and then moving the camera to get a different shot using the established focus. (As opposed to simply holding the camera still and pressing the shutter button down the rest of the way)

[krb]

thank you all very much for the insight!! When taking more of a "candid" portrait/photo lets say of kids running around the house, weddings, and so on do you still select the focus point for each picture? It just seems like it takes a lot of time to figure out your composition, change the focus point in the camera, and then compose-focus-shoot. Especially in a fast moving environment. However, I understand that in a more formal portrait shoot you would have the time.

(I hope you understand what im getting at). Thanks again!!

I'm not a pro sports or event photog but I never use automatic AF points and wish I could disable the button on the back that selects that mode because it occasioanlly gets bumped.

On the 40D go to the custom function III "Auto Focus/Drive"and scroll to item 3 "AF point selection method" and select "Multi-controller direct" . This lets you select the AF point using the joy-stick thing on the back of the camera with a simple click of the thumb and is very fast.

[jbone]

I guess thats another reason to get the 40D;)

[sandpiper]

I guess thats another reason to get the 40D;)

It's not new to the 40D, I have both my 20D and 5D set up to work that way. It's been a feature of Canon cameras for quite some time now.

I don't know about the rebel / xxxD class bodies, I've never used one so don't know if they have the joystick on the back. Anything else reasonably recent should be capable of joystick AF selection.

[krb]

I guess thats another reason to get the 40D;)
Heh. Misread your sig line and thought you had a 40. Still, look through the manual for yours to see if you can change the selection method for the AF points and select what works best for you.

[jbone]

its not that its hard to change the af point its just not as nice as the options that the 40D has, and im assuming that it takes longer to do than the 40D. (although ive never used one so I really dont know).

[goatee]

On the 1DMkii (and I think the 5D too), you can set it up so the quick control dial on the rear is used to select AF point - I find that quicker and easier than the joystick (when I had a 40D).

[GilesGuthrie]

+1 to Double Negative

Why Focus-Recompose Sucks (http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm)

You've got several focus points to select, why rely on the one dead center?

Oh yeah, this guys sums it up nicely: It is far better to use a less sensitive/less accurate autofocus sensor on the edge of the frame that will at least attempt to set the correct focus distance than to use the more accurate center sensor that is guaranteed to focus behind where you intended.

I used to focus-recompose until I got the 5d. I set the CFn that allows you to set focus point with the joystick, and haven't looked back. I never ever allow the camera to choose its own focus point.

[PhotosGuy]

I set the CFn that allows you to set focus point with the joystick, and haven't looked back. I never ever allow the camera to choose its own focus point. Me, either. Too bad we don't know what cam the OP has, or did I miss it?
If an xxD, I use C.Fn-13 (1) to put the focus points on my joystick (multi controller) which makes it easy to switch when things are moving fast or other situations where I need an off-center point.

[jbone]

sorry I changed my sig in the middle of this thread. I have an xti/400D. I would love a 40D jsut cant drop $1k on a body right now.:(

[superstes]

I like the joystick when shooting horizontal, I hit the all points sometimes but no real stress to change back with my thumb. But when shooting vertically and I hit the wrong button, this bugs me, because I have to take my hand off the lens for a moment.

Can the all points button be disabled.

Steve

[kjonnnn]

I seem to have good look with the depth of field option on the canon