Good Light meter studio and outdoor

[danielyamseng]

What 's is a good light meter for studio and outdoor shoot? Just one something perfect for the above job.

[Chris71]

Sekonic L-358 is highly regarded on the forums. I have one, and use it for studio work, and love it.

[martinsmith]

The camera's histogram and the money in my pocket. :D

I've used the L-308 and it's a good tool. I may invest in one one day.

Not sure I'd use one outdoors though.

[SkipD]

I use my Sekonic L-358 for all sorts of situations, indoors and out. Most often, I use it in the incident mode - measuring the light falling on the subject - as opposed to the reflected mode.

I do have a 1° spotmeter attachment for the meter which I use on occasion.

[TMR Design]

I'm a believer in light meters. The guesswork is gone with a meter and you can have repeatable, reliable results with perfect exposures. No more test shots, no chimping.

Whether in the studio or outside the hand held light meter has become one of the most valuable tools in my kit and one I can say is well worth the money.

If used correctly, the information displayed allows you to balance strobes for specific ratios as well as balancing flash with ambient light. The concept of highlight and shadow will make more sense, not just visually but from the standpoint of setting exposures.

Many will tell you you don't need a meter and that's cool. Determine whether you need and want a meter rather than letting someone else tell or convince you based on what they do.

If you're in situations with constantly changing light and you're working for clients the need for a meter becomes more apparent. Personally, I think the light meter is a great educational tool as well. If you use the information creatively as opposed to just knowing your taking aperture you'll gain a lot of insight into exposure and complex lighting with mixed exposures.

That being said... the Sekonic line of meters seems to have become the most popular but there are other alternatives out there. They all do the same thing and some of the older Minolta meters are considered among the best.

One of the most popular meters is the Sekonic L-358 and if you need/want to go cheaper and give up some of the features you can go with the L-308S. If you want an amazing (and more expensive) meter you can step to a used L-558R or a new L-758DR.

My US Nickel's worth.

[danielyamseng]

I guess even if with 1DsmkIII built in metering won't match with the light meter incident metering?

With light meter I can straight away use the reading from it(without EC) even for white/black subject?

Can I say the reading from the light meter is better than the camera one even though I bracket it the shoots? To the extreme is it possible even thought I bracket up to 7 exposure( starting point EC+0) would not get the correct exposure as from light meter?

With studio shoots using flassh, how does the light meter know the distance of the camera to the subject ?

[TheHoff]

If you're in situations with constantly changing light and you're working for clients the need for a meter becomes more apparent.

Good post and a point not many consider; I'd never chimp for an exposure in front of a paid client.

[TheHoff]

I guess even if with 1DsmkIII built in metering won't match with the light meter incident metering?

Reflective metering will rarely match an incident reading... one is measuring the reflected light and one is measuring the light that actually falls on the subject.

ith light meter I can straight away use the reading from it(without EC) even for white/black subject?

Yes, if you measure in incident mode and stand where the subject should stand.

Can I say the reading from the light meter is better than the camera one even though I bracket it the shoots? To the extreme is it possible even thought I bracket up to 7 exposure( starting point EC+0) would not get the correct exposure as from light meter?

The point with a meter is you won't have to bracket. If you're bracketing for HDR then you don't really need a meter unless you want the information for your own benefit.

With studio shoots using flassh, how does the light meter know the distance of the camera to the subject ?

It doesn't need to; it measures the light actually falling on the subject (as you hold the meter up in front of where the subject would be).

[bigbaby987]

I have a minolta V F, and a minolta meter II. Both are great and well worth it.

[martinsmith]

There are a few cheap Minolta meters on ebay. Which are the ones to buy for studio use?

[jr_senator]

The camera's histogram...

Handy thing, I use mine often. But, it's not a substitute for a light meter and was never meant to be.

[jr_senator]

What 's is a good light meter for studio and outdoor shoot?

Gossen Luna Pro F, if you can find a good one (discontinued). And,no,mine is not for sale.

[martinsmith]

Handy thing, I use mine often. But, it's not a substitute for a light meter and was never meant to be.
Granted. A lot cheaper though!:lol:

[danielyamseng]

For outdoor shooting, light meter is not really that suitable 'coze the lighting might change, right?

[jr_senator]

For outdoor shooting, light meter is not really that suitable 'coze the lighting might change, right?

If one notices a change in lighting a retake would certainly be in order. Through the years I have used a meter outside many times more than inside.

[martinsmith]

Doing some looking around, I see that Kenko have taken over the Minolta light meters. The K100 looks the same as the same as the Minolta flash meter IV which gets great reviews. It's also twice the price of the Sekonic L358. Is there much to be gained for a hobbyist that does occasional studio work?

I spend too much time reading reviews. :D

[SkipD]

Doing some looking around, I see that Kenko have taken over the Minolta light meters. The K100 looks the same as the same as the Minolta flash meter IV which gets great reviews. It's also twice the price of the Sekonic L358. Is there much to be gained for a hobbyist that does occasional studio work?

I spend too much time reading reviews. :DI doubt that any meter could do better than the Sekonic L-358 in a studio environment, even if it cost ten times as much.

If you NEEDED a 1° spot meter frequently, then there are meters that would be better than the L-358 (plus the 1° adapter), but for everyday work the L-358 does everything I could imagine a meter doing for me.

[martinsmith]

Thanks Skip.

In what circumstances would you need a 1° spot meter?

[TMR Design]

Thanks Skip.

In what circumstances would you need a 1° spot meter?

An example would be reflective spot metering a bird in a tree from a distance, or standing at camera position in the studio and getting a reflective reading off your background for a specific effect. If you were using 53" seamless and standing 10 feet from it, the 54° reflective disc on the L-358 would give you a field of view that is much too wide. The 1° spot metering lets you stand at a distance and still get an accurate reflective spot meter reading.

[martinsmith]

Thanks Robert

[Wilt]

Doing some looking around, I see that Kenko have taken over the Minolta light meters. The K100 looks the same as the same as the Minolta flash meter IV which gets great reviews. It's also twice the price of the Sekonic L358. Is there much to be gained for a hobbyist that does occasional studio work?

I spend too much time reading reviews. :D

I believe the Kenko is the Flashmeter V design, not the older IV.

I know I hated the older Sekonic displays (number for whole f/stop, read a simulated dialface for fractional f/stop) but the current Sekonics are fine (all numeric)...which style does the L358 have?
[edit] I just checked out the Sekonic website and see that the L358 has the all-numeric representation of fractional f/stops.

[another edit] One Kenko is based upon the 'Autometer V' and the other is based upon the high end 'Flashmeter IV' !

[jr_senator]

I paid $350 for mine, new. This (http://cgi.ebay.com/Luna-Pro-F-Light-meter-clean-and-accurate-Mint_W0QQitemZ310067625294QQihZ021QQcategoryZ708QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) seems like a good deal.

[Wilt]

Find a use Minolta Autometer IV or V, or a Minolta Flashmeter

[martinsmith]

I did look at the Autometer IV and the Flashmeter IV. Seems the Flash meter IV is the more pro one and the Kenko 2100 looks the same.

The Autometer range looks like the tighter budget option, but a fair few on ebay. No luck on the Flashmeter IV, though a few are advertised as the Flashmeter but appear to be the cheaper Autometer.

[danielyamseng]

Guys when do we need to use spot meter mode for the light meter?

Which situation the average metering failed?

[martinsmith]

I think Robert (TMR) answered this in post #19.

When you are at a distance from small subject.

[Wilt]

Guys when do we need to use spot meter mode for the light meter?

Which situation the average metering failed?

In addition to the situation Robert described, another use would be if you projected a gelled light thru a background and you wanted to meter its intensity without measuring the surround area of the background.

Another use, applicable to photographers shooting for press print is to meter the darkest and the lightest zones in the scene, and adjusting lighting so that the brightness range fits within what offset printing presses can achieve (which is less than what photographic printing can achieve)

[nwa2]

Thanks Skip.

In what circumstances would you need a 1° spot meter?

Another situation is when you are using ND grads, you need a spot meter to select the strength of grad and set the exposure. I, like most people I guess, do not follow my own advice and guess the grad strength and use the cameras meter to set exposure through the Grad - works but I would prefer to do it properly but I can not afford the spot attachment for my Sekonic L-358.

I would not recommend this meter unless you are using it all the time, I bought mine 2nd hand - yes it can do almost everything but as a result it is also very complicated and as I said the spot attachments are pricey.

[TMR Design]

..yes it can do almost everything but as a result it is also very complicated...

Not complicated at all. I think it is more confusing than complicated and much of that has to do with all the misinformation and methods of (mis)metering.

And once you understand how to use a hand held spot meter you'll find it makes things easier and allows you to work quickly and accurately, which in turn allows you to be more creative without being bogged down by checking histograms and checking the back of your camera.

The cool part is that if you work exclusively with strobes then you can set up the meter, leave it in the correct mode, and then just pick it up, hit the measure button, and you're there. In my opinion it doesn't get any easier or uncomplicated than that. :D

[DocFrankenstein]

I've switched from L358 to a universal meter. Spot, flash, ambient and flash spot in one chunky package - L508 or 558. Whichever zooms.

The L358 is a bit too big for what it does IMO, I'd like it to be about 2x smaller.

EDIT: And don't be fooled by people telling you that you don't need one. Flashwork is impossible to learn properly without one and you owe it to yourself to spend at least a year shooting with ambient metering to find out how it works. Then you can shoose not to shoot with it, if that's you style but you'll gain experience and you'll know your craft better at that point.

[TheHoff]

Size is what is holding me back from an L-358 as well. For the times I'm not using flash (most of it) I just want a small, quick meter. It would be nice not to have to own two different ones... the L-358 seems unnecessarily large for electronics in this day.

[DocFrankenstein]

Size is what is holding me back from an L-358 as well. For the times I'm not using flash (most of it) I just want a small, quick meter. It would be nice not to have to own two different ones... the L-358 seems unnecessarily large for electronics in this day.
Look into gossen luna pro meters.

They're small, robust and cheap. I've seen them on craigslist for 60 bucks or so, but they're not digital. I believe they're great value for the money and the digital photo community didn't catch up as to what a great value they are, so they're like the zeiss jena lenses 5 years ago. What you can pick up for 300 bucks today was selling for 50.

[TheHoff]

I haven't had a meter since an original Flashmeter IV (I think they cost $400 in the day?)... the Gossens were the main competition back then. I'll have to check it out, they certainly are smaller. Thanks for the reminder!

[René Damkot]

There are a few cheap Minolta meters on ebay. Which are the ones to buy for studio use?

Flashmeter V or VI, Autometer Vf.
I'd take the Sekonic 358 over the Autometer IVF any day, at any price.

One Kenko is based upon the 'Autometer V' and the other is based upon the high end 'Flashmeter IV' !

The Kenko FM2100 looks like it's based on the Flashmeter VI (http://harrysproshop.com/Minolta/Minolta_Flashmeter_VI/minolta_flashmeter_vi.html). So that would make it a competitor to the Sekonic L 758, not 358.
FM 1100 looks like an Autometer Vf, so could be compared with the L-358.
Almost the same options, except PW compatibility.

I've never liked Gossen meters.
Also, when looking for a Gossen, make sure it can measure ambient to flash ratio. Not all models can AFAIK.

[TheHoff]

Thanks, RD. I think if I bought a Gossen it would be an ambient model only with the purpose being that it is as small as possible for street shooting.

[jr_senator]

Look into gossen luna pro meters. They're small, robust and cheap. I've seen them on craigslist for 60 bucks or so, but they're not digital.

I have a Gossen Luna Pro F. It's my main meter and I'm dearly fond of it. I never considered it to be "small", but I guess it's what one compares it to. I payed almost $400 or so for mine many years ago and have seen them on eBay in the $150-$200 range (mint) now and then.But $60?, someone better grab it. Not digital? The advantages of a needle meter are, easy to see in all different light, can see several aperture and speed combos at a single glance and the battery seems to last almost forever.


...if I bought a Gossen it would be an ambient model...

The Sekonic L-398 (I have one, for the very purpose you mention) is small and light, also, no batteries.

[DocFrankenstein]

I have a Gossen Luna Pro F. It's my main meter and I'm dearly fond of it. I never considered it to be "small", but I guess it's what one compares it to. I payed almost $400 or so for mine many years ago and have seen them on eBay in the $150-$200 range (mint) now and then.But $60?, someone better grab it. Not digital? The advantages of a needle meter are, easy to see in all different light, can see several aperture and speed combos at a single glance and the battery seems to last almost forever.
Maybe I got lucky. I've seen one for 60, one for 80... One guy wanted 200 for it, so I wrote him off as a deviant.

[TheHoff]

The Sekonic L-398 (I have one, for the very purpose you mention) is small and light, also, no batteries.

Thanks, I just picked up an L-398A, LNIB for $120 off the b&s. I could've used it last night at the fireworks / crowd at the beach... I was rockin M and guessing by dialing down 1/3 stop every few minutes as the sun set. That was still more accurate than Av.

[DocFrankenstein]

I have a Gossen Luna Pro F. It's my main meter and I'm dearly fond of it. I never considered it to be "small", but I guess it's what one compares it to. I payed almost $400 or so for mine many years ago and have seen them on eBay in the $150-$200 range (mint) now and then.But $60?, someone better grab it. Not digital? The advantages of a needle meter are, easy to see in all different light, can see several aperture and speed combos at a single glance and the battery seems to last almost forever.
I've seen one on CL for 45 bucks again:
Reply to: sale-783005122@craigslist.org
Date: 2008-08-04, 5:24PM EDT


I have 2 Exposure Meters for sale:




Gossen Luna Pro

- Good condition, light wear
- Leather case shows some wear but is very sound
- No manual


... $45

[jr_senator]

I've seen one on CL for 45 bucks again:
Reply to: sale-783005122@craigslist.org
Date: 2008-08-04, 5:24PM EDT

Gossen Luna Pro

- Good condition, light wear
- Leather case shows some wear but is very sound
- No manual

... $45

I wonder if it's the Luna Pro or Luna Pro F (which also does flash metering)?

[DocFrankenstein]

I wonder if it's the Luna Pro or Luna Pro F (which also does flash metering)?
No clue.

But if you don't shoot flash, it's a pretty cool deal IMO

[jr_senator]

But if you don't shoot flash, it's a pretty cool deal IMO

Yep, but it would explain the price. The non-F was discontinued when the L model was introduced.

[TheHoff]

I just landed a Gossen Lunasix on eBay in prime shape with the case for $15... and it is supposedly one of the lowest-light measuring meters around. I like the Sekonic L-398 and will keep it but take out the Gossen for lower light work.

[jr_senator]

I just landed a Gossen Lunasix on eBay in prime shape with the case for $15... and it is supposedly one of the lowest-light measuring meters around. I like the Sekonic L-398 and will keep it but take out the Gossen for lower light work.

Glad to see you got your problem solved.

[JMHPhotography]

what sold me on my L-358 was that I could install a PW transmitter into the back of it for when I finally upgraded to PW's for my radio triggering system. Ironically, I haven't done either yet... but I still love my L-358

[martinsmith]

I weakened and ordered a 358.

I feel dirty!

[pprice]

I may have to look into getting one of these! I have been having a huge problem getting my exposure right, this looks like the thing to help with that!

[TheHoff]

I may have to look into getting one of these! I have been having a huge problem getting my exposure right, this looks like the thing to help with that!

Meter the light before you start. Put it in M and set it. If the light changes, meter again... soon you'll be able to judge how much to dial up or down depending on the change you see without checking the meter so much.

Your exposures will start to be more consistent once you go to M as the camera meter won't be swinging wildly at every blip of white or black in the frame. You'll like it, I think... and you'll feel smarter as you won't be depending on the guesses of the latest and greatest exposure program.

[AB8ND]

Picked up a Gossen DigiFlash, meter is good, working with it sucks.
Went back to my Luna Pro F, just wish it fit my pockets like the DigiFlash

Jack

Gossen Luna Pro F, if you can find a good one (discontinued). And,no,mine is not for sale.

[Lotto]

My L358 poverty transmitter :lol:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3158/2592417316_885cc0bc4f.jpg

[jr_senator]

Picked up a Gossen DigiFlash, meter is good, working with it sucks.
Went back to my Luna Pro F, just wish it fit my pockets like the DigiFlash

Jack

Yeah, the Luna Pro F is not a compact meter. I'm too fond of it to give it up though. I wear it on a strap that came with it around my neck. I know everything is digital now a days but I bet if those that have them used a good analog meter many would get one.

[pprice]

and you'll feel smarter

SOLD :) .

[pprice]

Wow, so you get the reading off of your subject and this thing pretty much tells you what to set you camera too? If this is the case, I am for sure sold!!!

My L358 poverty transmitter :lol:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3158/2592417316_885cc0bc4f.jpg

[Photo4u22]

A bit OT, but with a flash meter, how do you meter for multiple strobes in order to set a ratio? So my light would be ambient, key, and fill. Assume I want a 2:1 ratio.

[jr_senator]

Ambient, as in outdoors in the daylight?

[Lotto]

To set ratios for strobe, each strobe is metered and adjusted individually. For example of the 2:1 main/fill ratio, I would meter and set the main light to let's say f8, and the fill light to f5.6.

The L358 can read percentage of the flash from bright ambient light. If I fire the strobe outside and the meter read 50%, that means exposure is contributed by half from the flash, half from the ambient. If I want 2:1 flash to ambient ratio, I would increase the strobe power (and aperture on the camera) till the L358 reads about 65%.

[Photo4u22]

Thx Lotto. So in the example of f8 (main) and f5.6 (fill), then I would set my camera to match the main @ f8 to properly expose for it and let the fill drop to f5.6.

This may be a very newbie question, but if the main and fill overlap (as they generally do) that doesn't matter for metering? The camera would still be set for f8 (main)? There isn't any additive factor, or is there?

[steveathome]

Thx Lotto. So in the example of f8 (main) and f5.6 (fill), then I would set my camera to match the main @ f8 to properly expose for it and let the fill drop to f5.6.

This may be a very newbie question, but if the main and fill overlap (as they generally do) that doesn't matter for metering? The camera would still be set for f8 (main)? There isn't any additive factor, or is there?

Yes there will be overlap (unless at very different angles to each other) and this would generally be classed as a 3:1 ratio.

If you set the key light at f8, and then the fill at f 5.6 the final exposure reading taken with both lights on would be approx 1/3 over f8.

Whatever it is over, if you want to shoot at f8 then reduce both strobes equally, so if 1/3 over reduce both strobes by 1/3 or 3/10.
That is the beauty of digital control IMHO.

[Lotto]

Instead of reducing the the power to the main and fill, I usually just take a final read with both lights on, then set that aperture for the camera, most of the time is f9.

[Photo4u22]

Thanks for the help! I will give it a try.