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jmjmotorsport
22nd of January 2005 (Sat), 08:02
Well, it's looking like I"m going to get the chance to shoot a Mudvayne show in VA next month. I've never really shot in any type of nightclub/venue atmosphere before and am looking for some tips.. The venue has a great lighting system so I don't suspect it will be too dark in there.. there's no flash allowed so I'm already going to be shooting RAW for the post processing EC, at least ISO 800(I'm still unsure about the 300d and 1600) and using a 50mm 1.8 if I"m close enough to the stage for it. What else should I be practicing technique wise to get the shots I want? This is one of my favorite bands and don't want to come home to a bunch of terrible shots..

garnerfoto
23rd of January 2005 (Sun), 01:32
The 50/1.8 can give you some excellent shots in a nightclub setting.

Don't kid yourself about the lighting, I've shot in lots of clubs and at first look you might think you have plenty of light, but your eyes adjust for it. Don't be afraid to use ISO 1600 if needed. I shoot 90% or more at 1600, 1/60, 1.8.

Myself, I shoot in Tv mode @ 1/60, ISO 1600. I keep an eye on the settings and if I start seeing a lot of aperatures above 3.5 I'll drop the ISO to 800. I've only shot one indoor show where I've gotten down to ISO 400. That show was in a theater with nearly as much light as an arena. I shot ISO 400, 1/60-1/100, with aperatures of 3.5-8.0.

Being a Mudvayne show, I would pray for plenty of light and a longer 2.8 lens to get me away from the pit. I use my 100 2.8 macro when I've got enough light.

Technique to practice:
Get with a friend in a room with about the same amount of light that you anticipate there being on the stage. Set your camera in Av mode wide open. Have your friend act the part of the musician playing. Practice following his motion and getting and maintaining focus. Sounds easier than it is. In low light you will be shooting wide open or close to it. Shallow depth of field. You will find that just the slightest movement towards or away from you can put your shot out of acceptable focus.

Visualize now the shots you want.

Some other tips:
Wear earplugs. I know it's not cool, but neither is being deaf. Sounds better too.
Bring only the equipment you need, and keep it on you.
Be prepared to have security shut you down after just a few songs. Many bands (especially bigger, national/international acts) don't like to be photographed longer than 3 songs. I work with locals and they let me shoot all night.
No chimping. Well, maybe the first few shots to check the histogram, but after that, just shoot.

RockSlut
23rd of January 2005 (Sun), 03:26
Tom has got some excellent advice there. The only thing I'd add is, about positioning yourself (If possible). Many people try to shoot from a 12 o'clock position relevant to the performer. Take yourself off to the side some more 10 or 2 o'clock and you'll find that you'll be able to get shots of the artist, rather than just their microphone and stand.

Depending on how quickly the preformers are moving, and the amount of light sometimes I find myself needing to find something that's stationary, like the microphone and using that to get my focus point, and then wait for the artist to move back into your focus zone. I've found that I often have to use this technique with my powershot G3 and have gotten reasonable success.

If you have time to obtain it before hand, I've found "Concert Photography: How to Shoot and Sell Music-Business Photographs" by Jon Sievert to be an excellent reference on the subject.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0964700913/qid=1106475356/sr=8-1/ref=pd_ka_1/002-2829616-3058425?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

ByteTheBullet
23rd of January 2005 (Sun), 11:58
I am no expert, but I have been taking pics for a friend that has had a few local bands/solos over the past few years. They were mainly taken for his web page, which is down currently. I am going to try to post a few examples, I hope it works.

Anyway, so far all the advice has been right on. Regarding the lighting, do not forget the there will probably be colored lights used which are fun to try to fix. My friend has played in many venues, but mostly small bar/stage places. I always take a spare batt, CF card, small led flashlight, and a pocket sized tripod. The flashlight is in case I drop something or need to see a setting.

Here is a flash shot off center relatively close.
http://tinypic.com/1fjv46

Here is the same shot with no flash, in P mode I believe(S50).
http://tinypic.com/1fjv60

note: his jeans are not blue now. Also, he(middle) like the motion shots so I wasn't trying to freeze all of them. I think I zoomed a bit in this shot.

Don't forget to get some up close shots...they really like those.

http://tinypic.com/1fjvaf
Note: diiferent show, new camera(S70), knealing close using zoom and flash.

One last item, pictures of the crowd are good.
http://tinypic.com/1fjvbk
note: there is a balcony in the restaurant/bar which is convienient. Used the tripod here. Also shots of the crowd from behind the band are a shot he liked.

I have also made a cover for the self timer light, when using a tripod and no flash, so it does not attract attention to get better candid shots.

Hope this helps some.


ByteTheBullet (-:

Jyoti
23rd of January 2005 (Sun), 12:00
I do most of my gig stuff with flash but then it's mostly small indie bands or hardcore punk stuff where it's closer and more in your face. I'd agree with MetalTom about lighting: it's amazing how deceptive it is. I reckon you'll quickly be at 1600 with no flash.

Is there any way you can try and do the shots semi-officially, say for a zine or something? If you were doing this, maybe you'd get better access and less hassle from security?

jmjmotorsport
24th of January 2005 (Mon), 08:03
well, I won't be shooting the whole evening for sure.. I want to watch the show without it being totally through the viewfinder. I contacted the club management to ask about photos and told them I'd be shooting for a website. Don't know if that will get me any better access or not but we'll see.. I'm hoping with the DSLR and some accessories(only what I can carry on my body) I'll at least look professional. Thanks for the tips metal tom.. I'll get to practicing. Hopefully the whole experience won't be a complete wash and I'll have some good shots to share after the show.

donlavange
24th of January 2005 (Mon), 09:44
I would add a monopod to the suggestestions!

garnerfoto
24th of January 2005 (Mon), 14:34
When I first started out shooting shows, I found this web tutorial to be of invaluable help. Best info I ever found.
http://www.photo.net/concerts/mirarchi/concer_i.htm

Monopod or tripod--too much hassle, stage dynamics don't really allow for it.

RockSlut
25th of January 2005 (Tue), 01:24
Be wary...if you look too professional and don't have credentials be prepared to have your camera taken off you for the duration of the show. That's not true for all shows, particularly of small to medium local performers who tend to be quite grateful for whatever attention they get, but if you're talking about shooting a popular touring band in a major venue, expect problems.

I agree about the moonopod, I bought one for shooting bands and have only used it once. Also, again, be mindful of the fact that many crowd controllers will see it as a risk, being a very club-like piece of equipment.

jmjmotorsport
25th of January 2005 (Tue), 08:52
This isn't a big venue by any means.. It's part of the new Mudvayne "small venue" tour.. they're trying to do the more intimate shows on this one.. no opener, no big crowds, just 75 minute sets in small club atmospheres. The club generally allow cameras at all the shows they put on there. No flash they say, but unless the artist specifies no cameras, then they are allowed. It's that type of thing here.. so I needn't have credentials to bring the camera in. I'm gonna call back and check right before the show that cameras are ok just to make sure. I'm just looking to get the best results I can. That's all...

CyberDyneSystems
25th of January 2005 (Tue), 10:47
Timing your shots helps a lot in low shutter situations.. try and catch people as they paus.. as opposed to hoping the shutter can stop motion all the time.. 50mm1, 85mmf1.8 and 135mm f/2 are your best freinds in these situations.

I switch back and forth from TVat 1/60 or 1/125 and AV at wide open depending on circumstances.

With lenses this small and little room to movve in I have never tried a monopod.

donlavange
25th of January 2005 (Tue), 16:11
With lenses this small and little room to movve in I have never tried a monopod.

I just like the added stability of the monopod even when it is not extended. But then, I like monpods anyway!

kim_eij
5th of July 2009 (Sun), 19:37
i shot a lot of live music years ago with a 300d and a 501.8, its a great combo, I found manual worked better due to lights changing all the time, but it all depends on the venue. Maybe start on tv and see what exposures work then use those setting in M?

donlavange
9th of July 2009 (Thu), 19:47
i shot a lot of live music years ago with a 300d and a 501.8, its a great combo, I found manual worked better due to lights changing all the time, but it all depends on the venue. Maybe start on tv and see what exposures work then use those setting in M?

I shoot a lot of plays and musicals. I usually use A priority and have no problems because the light is constant (bad).

I think music rock venues probably have murderous lighting conditions so manual may be best.

Bumgardnern
10th of July 2009 (Fri), 10:10
I shoot a lot of shows.

My best advice is to avoid the pack mentality. A lot of photographers at shows will just stand in one spot in the pit the whole show. Walk around the venue and find some different shots. Do something different.

Exposure wise you really just have to feel it out. It depends on the lighting set up. I would advise on shooting in Manuel and chimping to make sure that the exposure is good. Concert lighting can fool the camera meter. Often times concerts will be back lit. I like to isolate my subjects on stage so I lean towards having a shallow DOF. I also do not worry about noise from high ISO. I suggest you set your camera so that you have the f stop and shutter speed that you want. If you have to crank the ISO up to 3200 or 6400 so be it.

Best of luck. Remember if you are going as a fan the most important thing is that you have fun and enjoy the show.