Camera settings in the sun (sample shot) need help.

[toddb]

I'm always challenged by shooting in Sun light and was wondering if anyone had any tips. I know the obvious would to bring in a crew and setup shades and reflectors, but really I'd like to know if anyone had any tricks when just shooting with just the camera and no other help. Should I just underexpose allot and hope I can bring out the shadow details. I know I should wait for better lighting, but it seems like the family likes to go out in the sunshine, I don't know why though, lol. I realize that the camera is going to be limited by the dynamic range and it usually means I get either the shadows or the highlights, but not both in this situation, but just wondering if there were other techniques.

Here is an example of what I mean. It's noon here in the Seattle area, and for once the sun is out (which does not happen allot which is why I don't have any good experience). The sun is to the left of me.

current camera settings:
1/60sec
f/5.6
iso 200
no flash
Metering mode: Pattern

Some post processing for this image from raw:
Exposure: -50
Shadows: 7
Contrast: 43
Brightness: 67
(then some curve adjustments and slight sharpening, crop and jpeg save)

http://www.toddburke.net/forumpost/blown_out.jpg

[drisley]

Use fill flash.
I always have my 420ex attached and in use when I shoot outdoors (except for landscapes).
It makes a huge difference.

[toddb]

I didn't have my flash gun with me, but I did pop the onboard flash for a couple shots and it did help for the situations I tried (not this one though). I might have been too far away in this particular shot. Should I leave my OmniBounce defuser on or leave that off in this situation (I'm guessing leave it off)? I guess I can try to spot meter where the highlights are bing blown and then lock the AE down then recomp and take the shot. Probalby miss allot of shots but might get some good ones too. Need more sunshine to practice...oh, and less work so I can actually go outside.

[scottbergerphoto]

If you are going to shoot using sunlight, try to avoid mid day. There is just too much dynamic range for the camera to capture. If you properly expose the highlights, the shadows go black. Expose for the shadows and the highlights get blown out. If you must shoot at that time of day, try to find some shade, large trees and use them as a natural diffusion screen. Use partial metering, meter off of the skin tones and open up one stop above what your meter tells you to make up for the difference between caucasian skin and 18% Grey.
In the picture you posted, it looks like the camera meter was fooled by the dark trees in the background and gave you too much exposure on your subjects.
Regards,
Scott

[kawter2]

have you tried to use the sunny f16 rule


AV = 16
TV = 1/ISO


I think the whole shot is over exposed, you only REALLY notice it on the hisget in the DR cause ti is the only thing that actually went out of gammut

[kawter2]

have you tried to use the sunny f16 rule


AV = 16
TV = 1/ISO


I think the whole shot is over exposed, you only REALLY notice it on the hisget in the DR cause ti is the only thing that actually went out of gammut. I think the dark background cause the camera to forte to much aperture w/waaayy too long of a shutter speed for ISO200

[Lesmac]

A couple of options Todd, one mentioned, expose for the highlights and bring back the shadows in PS, the other method is to use the highlight tool (in PS CS), I find you can really push this to bring back detail in highlights without degradation, although it depends on how much the whites are blown.

Les

[toddb]

Thanks for all the input, this is exactly the kind of input/ideas I need to go out and practice with. Sunny rule sounds pretty interesting. I think the others where right about the background probably having a big impact (which is why more and more I find my self going manual). I'll also try to spot meter and AE lock on where I think I'll have highlight issues and see how that comes out. Les, I'll have to play with the highlight tool, I usually try and fix it in the Raw conversion and in this case I saw allot of "white" (which means all three channels where blown) so recovery was not possible for the amount that I had. I'd probably have to try and clone in some detail but it's not like this is a one and a million shot so I'm not going to spend the time on restoration right now (but 20 years from now I probably will, lol).

Thanks again for all the tips, I really appreciate all the comments. :-)

[Olegis]

Hi toddb.

You can always meter something neutral gray in your picture, some object that appears neutral gray in the same lighting as your primary opbject is (you may as well buy a gray card for these ocasions). Or, you can shoot the picture in auto mode, see which setting the camera proposed and examine the final result histogram. Then you can set the camera to manual mode, adjust the exposure accordingly and examine the results again. Concentrate on you subject, as long as it's properly exposed, the background will not matter (over- or under-exposed).

[tim]

PS CS has a highlight tool? I've been adjusting the levels and using the history brush... there's a shortcut?

[Olegis]

Image --> Adjust --> Shadows/Highlights, if I remember correctly ...

[tim]

Image --> Adjust --> Shadows/Highlights, if I remember correctly ...

What a great tool, thanks! :)

[mr.photoguy]

What about using some sort of filter on the lens to cut down on the amount of light that the camera sees.

I don't know which filter you would use, but it may be a thought to look into.

[kawter2]

What about using some sort of filter on the lens to cut down on the amount of light that the camera sees.

I don't know which filter you would use, but it may be a thought to look into.



IMO that would do no good, if anything he is having an issue with dynamic range.

If he is shooting in the same meetering mode as above with a canera controlled exposure, all that would happen when using the filter, is the camera would overexpose even more to compensate

[Hellashot]

I'd consider going to ISO100.

[toddb]

I'd consider going to ISO100.

Normally I would, but I kept getting too slow of shutter speed for the apature I wanted. Again I think the metering was being fooled in this case. There is lots of green forest where I live so I'll just have to learn to watch out for that.

[scottbergerphoto]

Normally I would, but I kept getting too slow of shutter speed for the apature I wanted. Again I think the metering was being fooled in this case. There is lots of green forest where I live so I'll just have to learn to watch out for that.
Try to use that green forest to your advantage. If you place your subjects near the trees such that the trees are blocking the harshest rays, and turn them (subjects not trees :) ) so that the sun is coming from their side, you have a diffused studio lighting set up.
Scott