70-200mm 2.8L IS questions soccer

[sportsphotos]

I am shooting a soccer game for the 1st time and I will be renting a canon 70-200mm 2.8L.

If I am shooting in a bright day what should I set the lens to and the camera. I shoot with the 30d

And if I shoot around dusk what should I set the lens and camera to

I normally shoot Al servo in AV mode

[corythosaurus]

AI Servo and AV priority. Sun to your back, squat at the endline and around the corner flag to the 18. Wait for the action to get with in reach. Shoot wide open and adjust your ISO as it gets darker. Have fun!

[mhackney]

sportsphotos, It might be helpful for you to read at least the first 2 parts (A & B) of my series on shooting youth soccer. Part A has general tips on shooting postion (i.e. shoot at the kids' chest level etc) and Part B has the technical details you asked about above.

http://eclecticguy.com/photography/

Hope that helps - I've had a lot of good feedback from folks that they are getting better shots after reading them.

cheers,
Michael

[rovers_Andy]

Hi i would shoot in AV, on AI SERVO Multishot, for the bright sunshine, try to shoot with the sun behind you and try ISO 200 to start, do a few test shots and see if you are getting the shutter speeds you want (for me i want at least 1/1000th) then as the day progresses remember to regularly check the shots and bump the ISO up. as an example on saturday with strong winter sun starting at 3pm i started at 200, quickly went to 400, shot at 400 until around 4pm then went upto 600 then 800 as the shadows came across the pitch. for dusk you probably want to start at 800 and keep bumping up. Ive had to shoot some stuff at 1600 and above to get the shutter speeds.

Andy

[gherrry]

shoot full manual mode. as it gets darker your av may not be able to keep up. also depends oh how bright your stadium lighting is. I shoot football every friday nite and i only shoot: manual mode /3200 iso with my 70-200 2.8l non IS wide open. AV will work for a bit if there is alot of light but not all the time.

[cstewart]

Yes...try and shoot at f2.8 or 3.2 (sometimes a bit sharper) especially if the backgrounds are busy as this will help blur them and isolate the main subjects better. In daylight you can probably use an ISO of 400, maybe even 200 but make sure it is high enough to get shutter speeds of no less than 1/400 and probably even higher than that for really good results for soccer. As the light fades, boost your ISO as needed. My 40D gets good ISO 3200 results but not sure if and how the 30D can go that high so if it gets too dark, you may just need to pack it in.

[sportsphotos]

is there any differnce with the IS and NON verison beside statabilzation?
and
thanks everyone for the info I hope this site keeps going

[mhackney]

Nope, they are basically the same in other respects.

Don't forget a monopod!

Cheers,
Michael

[S.Horton]

30D -- Center point AF only.

enjoy!

[rovers_Andy]

Manual is always prefered but alot of the time when shooting dusk or under floods you will have 1 1/2 to 2 stops difference in exposure. it depends if you want to be constantly shifting two stops on your settings

[tomcat360]

If you are renting for it, have you considered something a bit longer? I just got a 300 because my 70-200 wasn't cutting it for full field soccer.

[eigga]

If its bright day I would rent the 300 f/4 or 300 2.8 instead. If it is a full sized field the 400's would even be better.

[ron4sc]

I take pictures for my daugther's soccer team so I'm not a professional by any means. Mostly website pix to 8x10s.

As someone who rented the 300mm f/4 and the 70-200 f/2.8 before deciding which to buy, I have to disagree with the value of the 300mm f/4. I really liked the 70-200 IS because when the kids got close to my side of the field, I could still shoot the action by zooming down to 70mm. When I had the 300mm, if they got within 30 yards of me, the lens was worthless. I couldn't take the shot because they were too close. I did long for the 300mm when they were on the other end of the field so I guess you can't have everything. I just found the 70-200 gave me more shots than the 300mm.

I ended up voting with my wallet when I bought the 70-200 f/4 IS. I'm very happy with the lens and I can always crop to make it look like I was closer than I really was. :)

[picken]

Hi i would shoot in AV, on AI SERVO, centre point focus . for the bright sunshine start about 200 and keep checking as the game goes on, I look for shutter speeds of about 1000 to 1500,Some games i have the iso up at 1600,The "Is" does not really matter at these speeds

[picken]

This was taken on Saturday,iso 200, 185 f2.8.with my Canon 70-200 f2.8L

[tomcat360]

I simply said that because I have been shooting some college soccer recently and I am very limited with a 70-200. Usually the players are heading towards the center of the field, so being on the side line you have to shoot across to the other side if you want faces. Even if they are directly across from you, it's too far for 200.

But I do agree, being able to get down to 70mm to get closer ones is nice. Most pro sports guys, no matter what sport, have a long prime and then a second body with a 70-200.

[eigga]

As someone who rented the 300mm f/4 and the 70-200 f/2.8 before deciding which to buy, I have to disagree with the value of the 300mm f/4.

Everyone is different in what they like for sure and the 70-200 will produce results as well. But I think if you look on the sidelines of any sport using that size of a field you will see the pro's with a 300 or 400 as the main camera... of course the 70-200 will be on the hip.

Having covered many soccer games with the 300 I can tell you it is a great FL for soccer. I use it for everything except U5.

[Dan-o]

What you miss with the 300 up close you make up for on the other end.

[sportsphotos]

I am glad to see a pic of the camera I use and the lens I am gonna get. I dont wanna rent it now I wanna buy it. But can't afford it. Hey I take Donations!!!! haha

[sportsphotos]

If I get a 1.4 Tc that would make it 100-280mm?? that good enuff isn't it

[eigga]

If I get a 1.4 Tc that would make it 100-280mm?? that good enuff isn't it

Yes that is correct and if it only changed the focal length you would be golden. However the 1.4 cost you a stop of light at f/4 and more importantly slows down focus speed and hurts IQ. How much is a big debate....I was not happy with the results on the 70-200 and only use my 1.4 on the 300.

[drmac]

I have found that the 70-300 2.8 has perfect glass at f/4.0-5.0.... at least mine does...

When I approach the field I look at the sun and put it to my back and shoot AV....

When the action is "up close" I shoot 2.8 when it is farther I go 4.0 to 5.0....

I have found that when you have a camera with a white lens, you can roam anywhere (just don't have any comments regarding play or calls)... I simply walk where "parents" shouldn't and have had no problems....

The trick I have found comes from having a picture in focus and then editing in CS3...

(sharpen, levels/curves, color, and contrast....

[eigga]

When the action is "up close" I shoot 2.8 when it is farther I go 4.0 to 5.0....

Please explain this reasoning?

70-300 2.8
No such lens???