How To: Wildlife Photography and staying hidden

[jbdavies]

So I looked through all three pages and noticed that every single topic was about lenses. Which is great and all, but if you want to really get that one shot... don't you need to stay hidden?

So, in this thread, list what you use to keep the wildlife unaware of your whereabouts. :)

Whether it's Scent-Lock Camouflage, a Hide, etc.

I personally don't have any... but I would love to get into this eventually. I just want to know what all of you Pro (or not) wildlife shooters use. ;)

[Pekka]

I think the most common tool is simply a long lens. :)

[jbdavies]

Well sure, I understand that. But take Discovery Channel, when they were shooting Planet Earth a lot of their people were stuck in hides for up to a couple months. And look at the footage they got! I realize they are doing video, but its all the same concept; To get that ONE shot. Maybe im thinking to much into this. I tend to do that alot. :p lol

[PBeeee]

People seem to use the same things that get used for hunting; blinds, camo clothes, etc. And the same as hunting, I think the skill to develop is knowing about the animal. Where do they move thru regularly? What times of day are they moving? Food, water or shelter? I see birders all the time in more camo to take pics than I would wear to hunt, including covered lenses and tripods. I do think if I took time to set up a blind near some of my feeders this winter, I would get some of the skittish birds more easily. Certainly something I may likely do. And after noticing that I always seemed to be wearing a bright coat when the hawk/eagle was perfectly posed, I did throw an old black shell in the car to put on when needed. The long lenses are good obviously but patience and more often, right time, right place have the most results.
Have a look at Cabela's website, they have the whole camo/blinds/scents etc. thing in many price ranges. I've certainly eyed some portable quick pop up blinds once or twice. But having spent many hours in duck blinds, cold, many times wet and in the company of anxious dogs, I know it takes serious patience to do what you see those videographers do. That may be their most valuable skill.

[jbdavies]

People seem to use the same things that get used for hunting; blinds, camo clothes, etc. And the same as hunting, I think the skill to develop is knowing about the animal. Where do they move thru regularly? What times of day are they moving? Food, water or shelter? I see birders all the time in more camo to take pics than I would wear to hunt, including covered lenses and tripods. I do think if I took time to set up a blind near some of my feeders this winter, I would get some of the skittish birds more easily. Certainly something I may likely do. And after noticing that I always seemed to be wearing a bright coat when the hawk/eagle was perfectly posed, I did throw an old black shell in the car to put on when needed. The long lenses are good obviously but patience and more often, right time, right place have the most results.
Have a look at Cabela's website, they have the whole camo/blinds/scents etc. thing in many price ranges. I've certainly eyed some portable quick pop up blinds once or twice. But having spent many hours in duck blinds, cold, many times wet and in the company of anxious dogs, I know it takes serious patience to do what you see those videographers do. That may be their most valuable skill.
Thanks for the info. That is what I kinda figured... just wanted to make sure.

And Cabela's is freaken awesome! I love that store. I've never really looked at their blinds (no real need as of yet), but I'm always looking at the Camo... and guns... :D

And I know what you mean about patience. I sometimes have it... but sometimes I just get antsy. :)

Thanks again for all the info. Anyone else got any feedback (and not just for me)? :)

[WordWaster]

My experience is primarily with white tail deer and imported black buck antelope. The first thing is to change your human shape. If you are in the open camo is not helpful. Particularly the antelope will turn tail when they spot a human. Even just an ATV with you dismounted on the side opposite the animal will help. Just don't go roaring up toward it.

The next thing is movement. If you are still, the animal is much more likely to ignore you. If you are going to move, it must be done in the smallest increment possible. You cannot make a sudden movement.

As the other posters have said, however, a hide or blind and a long lens are probably the best.

[hardcorewaterfowl]

Sometimes I get too close and the shutter noise hinders natural movement of the deer, they just get nervous and spook. A good lens with a comfortable distance is better for me.

[jbdavies]

Hmmm... that's a good point. What if you did the "Live View" thingy? That's considerably more quiet than normal shooting.

[frici]

It depends what animal you want to photo. My experience is you have the better chance if you choose a right place, hide you and stay there for hours. You must be silent. The camo-blind could be good, except if you want to move to another place. I usualy use a net. I carry with me and I can hide myself in a short time.

For birds I would use blind, for other animals net.

[jbdavies]

Oh cool! That's pretty nifty! I didn't even think of that. Thanks for that. :)

[The_Camera_Poser]

David Attenborough uses trained elephants to carry around his cameras, and move them into position as well! He also uses a "turtle cam"- a tortoise with a camera on it's back. Just like that David Att.- always taking the easy way out! LOL

[The_Camera_Poser]

David Attenborough uses trained elephants to carry around his cameras, and move them into position as well! He also uses a "turtle cam"- a tortoise with a camera on it's back. Just like that David Att.- always taking the easy way out! LOL

[BradM]

I have two pop up blinds, 3 differing types of camoflage nets/drapes, and a ghillie suit and I don't use any of them anymore except in very rare circumstances.

As I am not usally shooting anything longer than 400mm, the 300-800mm is just a pain in the field with all of the required accessories, this means I need to get close if I want a detailed image.

It has been my experience that if I wear clothing in earth tones and a hat (very important) and nothing white I can sit quietly on my combination stool/backpack, or the ground and have the animals approach me. If I need to get closer a slow crawl will do the job.

As previously mentioned the main point is not to appear to be what the particular species considers a threat or predator. Avoiding walking about, standing, quick movements, talking, singing, humming and whistling or other behaviors that indicate you are a human and the animals will often ignore you and approach.

Here is just a few shots of the hundreds I have captured at under 400mm's without using any blind or other device. The first shots I was actually wearing black/yellow ballastic nylon motorcycle gear crawling along a beach to get within 7 meters.



http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/dowitcher85b.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/rainyredtail5.jpg





http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/coyotenutria2.jpg

[PBeeee]

Never considered the hat part....although I am consistently amazed how many times animals are looking straight into the lens. Do you think the hat is a eye contact thing or human shape camo?

[BradM]

Never considered the hat part....although I am consistently amazed how many times animals are looking straight into the lens. Do you think the hat is a eye contact thing or human shape camo?


It is my understanding that a hat assists in breaking up your outline and making you less identifiable as a human. Of course in my circumstances I leave a hat on unless I want to bounce some fill light to the subject. :rolleyes:

[Pauky]

BradM--were these pictures taken with the 100-400 or the 400mm?

[T.D.]

BradM--were these pictures taken with the 100-400 or the 400mm?

The EXIF on all of his images shows <400. I'd say they're all with the 100-400.

[BradM]

BradM--were these pictures taken with the 100-400 or the 400mm?


Just as our wise moderator has surmised, the shots are with the 100-400mm, the 1st @ 390mm, the 2nd @ 220mm and the last @ 210mm.

[Pauky]

Just as our wise moderator has surmised, the shots are with the 100-400mm, the 1st @ 390mm, the 2nd @ 220mm and the last @ 210mm.


Thanks BradM.

I have a 40D and a 100-400, but I can't get the shots nearly as sharp as yours. After studying your EXIF, it might be the f/9-f/11 range that you're using. Are you using autofocus or manual? I'm wondering if I have a soft lense. Do you have any suggestions?

I have been perusing your site. You are taking some absolutely amazing shots! I'm very impressed. Some of those shots you captures: I just can't imagine how you got them.

Very nice work.

[BradM]

Thanks BradM.

I have a 40D and a 100-400, but I can't get the shots nearly as sharp as yours. After studying your EXIF, it might be the f/9-f/11 range that you're using. Are you using autofocus or manual? I'm wondering if I have a soft lense. Do you have any suggestions?

I have been perusing your site. You are taking some absolutely amazing shots! I'm very impressed. Some of those shots you captures: I just can't imagine how you got them.

Very nice work.

Thanks for the nice words, it is certainly appreciated.

On the aperture issue, I have found my lens is at the best between f/7.1 to f/9. And so I am usually shooting at f/8 but in these cases I stopped down further because as you probably know the closer one gets to the subject the more narrow the dof gets. And I didn't want to lose the areas I wanted sharp, the eyes & head in most cases. In all cases I am using AF, my eyesight is bad enough I am lucky to identify a bird from a log.

On whether or not you have a soft copy or not: It has been my personal experience with at least 7 of these lenses that I have yet to find a soft one. In different seminars I have held the owners have felt theirs wouldn't perform as well as my own. So I suggest we swap, shoot the same subject and the "issue" of softness remains.

So it then is evident it isn't a gear issue but rather an issue of settings or technique. And most cases it come down to the technique of using longer lenses.

Some quick tips for the best results while handholding (I never use a triopd with the 100-400mm) I could offer would be:

Don't grip the lens barrel, cup it. If your fingers on the lens aren't adjusting then they shouldn't be applying any pressure to the barrel.

Always have 3 points of firm (but not tension) contact with camera, body to the eye/forehead, right hand pulling it in, left hand cupping with elbow braced against body.

If standing the left foot should be slightly in front of the right with weight mainly on the forward foot. And if you can brace yourself on something, lean on a tree, fence post, car or something. The first step in a sharp shot is stability, get stable and the rest is easy even at shutter speeds well below the focal length times crop factor rule of thumb.

Squeeze off a shot, too many people slap the shutter button. An easy techinque to try to see if you are slapping is to shoot 3 or 4 shots in succesion.

Be sure to let the IS spin up before shooting, .5 to 1 second. The 1st maybe soft, the 2nd and/or 3rd sharp and the last soft. The reason for the first soft is the slap, the last is the anticaption of checking the shot. This tip alone has converted many people away from the soft copy thought they had previously on their glass.

The basic techniques I use in shooting photos is the same I used in handgun qualifying and meets as a former police officer, grip, bracing, breathing and squeezing.

Most of the tips that can improve the sharpness of the shot can come down to just slowing down and thinking through the shot. While the time with the subjects are often fleeting the oxymoronic cliche of "making haste slowly" really is best advice one can give in my experience.

I hope some of this helps, more questions or concerns please ask. Myself or some of the real experts we have in our community are here and willing to help you out.

[Larry Weinman]

Like BradM I don't use a blind except for special circumstances. Wildlife are very aware of their environment. Imagine someone setting up a blind in your living room while you are sleeping. Do you think you would notice it when you got up the next morning? Blinds can be effective if they are left in place permanently but I don't th they work very well on a temporary basis.

[gasrocks]

My car or my van. Best "hide" you probably already own. Especially in a wildlife area that has a road running through it.

[KayakPhotos]

Great tips from everyone. I hunted for many years including bowhunting, so I am quite used to being close to wildlife. It saddens me to think of all the great shots I could have gotten if I was in to photography back then! That is the way it is though...Here are a few thoughts of mine to consider.

Using the vehicle as a cover- while this does probably work in areas where deer are used to seeing vehicles, it does not always work in a real world environment. I have watched deer's reactions to vehicles during hunting season and they are not good. Some deer will go WAY around the vehicle because they associate it with a predator (especially bucks).

When I am trying to stalk an animal, I use natural cover to block my outline. Move very slowly and walk in a way that there is always a tree or bush between you and what you are going towards. It takes a lot of patience to get close in the wild. This does not apply at places like nature centers and parks obviously.

Don't be afraid to just sit and wait-A lot of times animals scatter like crazy when you are running through the woods. I have found that if you just sit down and wait, they will come back. Patience can pay off in more ways then one. I like deer, but while waiting for deer to show up I often see a lot of squirrels and birds hanging out at close ranges. If you are careful to be still, you will probably be surrounded by wildlife.

Pop up blinds are excellent- If you know anything about turkeys, you will know that they often scatter at the slightest movement(in the wild). I have found that a pop-up blind works great to counteract this phenomena. With a popup blind in place, I have been surrounded by about 10 hen turkeys within 8-10 feet for a period of about an hour. The only reason they go scared off is because I moved to a different spot. I have also called in a 20+ pound tom within 10 feet. Missed the shot, however because the safety was on but that is another story in itself. Another benefit of the popup blind is that you can get away with moving around more and not wearing camo.

[gymell]

I have found with birds that I can sit out without a blind if I sit on the ground with my back up to a tree. A hat usually helps and if I'm just watching birds, I wear sunglasses so they can't see my eyes. I've had mixed luck with blinds, sometimes they work really well and other times not at all.

[Guerry Dalrymple]

Jeremy

Being a bowhunter for years it was a pretty easy tranfer to getting close for photography. Also being in a wheelchair make me need to pick site to photograph from and not move around a lot. Another old bowhunting technique, scouting. In any case I use blinds and camo for the most part. Sometimes only one or the other but mostly both. I have a pop up blind my wife got me last birthday if you want to try it out.

Guerry

[Larry A]

I use the same techniques for photography that I do for hunting (deer waterfowl and turkey). Most of which were mentioned above.

I want to add one thing about pop up blinds they work but you can not just set one up jump in an expect to have animals get close. You need break up the out line. Take away the hard edges of the blind. A blind is great in that you will probably be more comfortable and the more comfortable you are the longer you will sit trying to get that once in a life time shot. Most hunting blinds have places on the outside to stick branches and brush you need to make your blind blend in.

[jbdavies]

Awesome info everyone! Thanks so much! :D

Jeremy

Being a bowhunter for years it was a pretty easy tranfer to getting close for photography. Also being in a wheelchair make me need to pick site to photograph from and not move around a lot. Another old bowhunting technique, scouting. In any case I use blinds and camo for the most part. Sometimes only one or the other but mostly both. I have a pop up blind my wife got me last birthday if you want to try it out.

Guerry
Thanks Guerry! I'll keep you in mind if I ever get a chance to get out. :p lol

[DBrooker]

Ghillie suits work well too - You can easily make your own portable blind from camo fabric bought at any store and a couple of pieces of 1/2" plastic water pipe and some duct tape - tape the cloth to the pipe and cut the pipe with an angle on one end to poke it into the ground - you can use 2 or 3 pieces with one on each end and a third piece of pipe in the middle - very light weight and very portable - For those who don't know many times deer will smell you before they see you - Also deer and turkey many times travel together - the deer will be moving to feed and water while the turkey are moving to roost in the evening and just the opposite in the morning - I even seen them tease and play each other - In the fall you can bust a flock of turkeys and set and make a lost turkey call and many times they will come right back at you on a dead run - Just thought these things might be worth a mention - DB

[Wedding Photography]

BradM, you seem to been a real pro in wildlife shooting, the wolf photo is really amazing. Hope to practise some wildlife shooting as well soon.

[ThomGascoigne]

I always thought it wouldn't really matter how well you hid if you were close to your subject wouldn't they be able to pick up on your scent or work out theres a threat nearby?

I guess if you could get a 800mm and a II x extender you should be allright :D

[DBrooker]

Thom - That is very true - When looking to photograph mammals scent gives you away more times than not - most wild mammals depend on their sense of smell for protection in addition to sight - Here in North America your choices are not to have any scent, which is difficult at best or to cover your scent with another scent - in the mid-west of the USA coyote urine is very popular to cover up human scent - of course there are many different options to choose from - Also many different native trees and plants have scents that you can rub on your clothing, just be careful and know which ones to stay away from such as poison ivy and poison oak, etc. Another thing that helps is not to bring your blind or clothes inside your home where they can pick up oders such as cleansers, cooking oders, etc. When stalking if possible keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back - Coming close to wild animals can be done with a lot of time, knowledge and work - I've been within 3-5 feet of deer and turkey both on more than one occasion but it is work and you've really got to want to do it and you've got to want to learn how to do it - DB

[ThomGascoigne]

Yeah I guess it also depends alot on the animal. I can get very close to alot of native Australian animals 15-20 feet isn't such a problem as long as you move slow and make yourself small. I have thought about making a small hut for my camera and then controlling it via a long cord but this isn't going to work well unless you can set the camera up to be focussed on the exact spot where the target will be.


I have thought about climbing tree's as-well but I'm not too sure if that would work or not.

[S.Horton]

See: Cabela's, same gear and setup as hunting.

You're basically using a camera, not a gun, with the same intent -- to shoot the prey.

Cover the lens with a lenscoat, too.

[jbdavies]

Cabela's rules! I was in there the other day. :)

For the smell, has anyone tried the ScentLock clothes? I always see them... don't know if they actually work. I'm sure they do... but just curious. :)

[BradM]

Using these more elaborate techniques or scent masking or overlays can be very effective in some circumstances. Consider extremely difficult animals to capture like large cats: Bobcats, Lynx or Cougar one probably must use them.

But in most cases it is a matter of what you are shooting and more importantly when and where you are doing it. If one was out in the woods this time of year trying to capture shots of deer or elk which are currently being hunted by bow and rifles you need to use the most stealthy methods possible.

But why try to get shots when the animal you want is the most wary and aware of differences in their enviornment? While a camera gives you the opportunity to "hunt" these animals year round, often in many areas the period you be should out after them is limited.

But if you have areas that are off limits to hunting like National Parks, or specific refuges, note that not all wildlife refuges are no hunting zones but many do limit the species one may hunt. Most often it is only waterfowl and larger mammals are protected but not in all cases, check with your local refuge to be sure.

But these areas are often populated by large animals which are much easier to capture in their prime because they are "aware" of their relative protected status. Also during hunting season many animals will move into these areas temporarily dramatically increasing ones odds of capturing the shot. Like Jewell Meadows in the costal mountains of Oregon, a refuge for Roosevelt Elk all but surrounded by open areas for hunting, there is currently some massive bulls there bugling each morrning for harems. Younger bulls sparring, cows and this years calves wandering about. There are areas like this across the country.

In other cases animals that are some what habituated to humans in their enviornment are usually much easier to capture, and I'm not talking about ducks in the local park but the behavior is the same. Coyotes, deer, elk, and other species live in close concert with humans and are often much easier to get close to if they are not hunted.

As mentioned time of year makes a BIG difference in the ability to capture different species. And usually the best time is the winter for diurnal predators, days are short, these animals must eat and are often seen much more often than during the days we humans normally prefer to be out when the light is long and days are warm and dry.

The winter is good shooting, you can sleep relatively late and still be up before sunrise to get out there and get the shot, so what if it is a bit cold, damp or breezy, no one said this was going to easy. Easy is going to the zoo.

When it moves in to Spring and animals are raising their current litter, brood or clutch they must hunt much more often to feed the young, again they are much more active and much less to be dramatically disturbed by human intrusion if it is quiet and discrete.

The point of this whole thing; decide first what you want to shoot, a specific animal. Then is to understand what the animals behavior might be, what they feed on, the behavior and techniques used in their feeding/hunting and their specific requirements for shelter. Study the animals or birds you want to capture and find the areas where these requirements will be found.

And understand what humans influence might be in the particular species you are looking for, particularly when that species is under pressure from hunting or other impacts. You will find the animal you want and find additional species you didn't expect to capture shots of.

[ThomGascoigne]

I might have to look into this scent hiding stuff. Not for wildlife photography but just to help me with my day to day odor.. Yeah you think I'm joking.

[ctranter]

I have a camo net, similar to the photo on page one. It works a treat for a lot of situations. A kingfisher actually came and sat on me :)

[Trainboy]

Looking at this forum, it's chock full of "what lens" posts, so I'll break off from the herd and ask simply, how do you do wildlife photography? Mine you, I'm not talking about pull-your-car-off-the-highway-and-take-a-picture-of-a-moose, who out there invests time seriously in it, and what are your techniques?

[Bubble]

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=373933

that talk about bird. Pretty much the same as you do in wildlife. Patient is the key ingredient. :)

[ObiDamnKenobi]

yeah as one who's thinking about getting into more wildlife I would appreciate some tips on technique, where to go, tracking.. etc. I'll see if I can come up with some more specific questions later but a sticky with links or tips would be cool.

And also a sticky saying "wildlife = 100-400!" I think I saw 4 "which lens?" threads in a row the other day.. :)

[BradM]

This thread has some tips I shared but it comes down to know what you want to shoot, where it might be found, understand it's needs and habits and then exercise patience while you await it to come to you.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=584262

[ctranter]

Go sit in a river and watch and wait.

[Diesel_Dog]

Not the answer you want to hear, but I get a lot of my wildlife shots from the window of my truck (or work truck). Often times wildlife get spooked when you exit your vehicle right away. So I just sit in my blind and wait for them to get used to the truck before trying anything. After shooting a few from the window I will try to get out and start to stalk.

I would agree with the above posters, getting to know your prey is key. For some animals it's getting to know where they water, or where a salt lick is.
The deer around here are used to people, so I try to blend in to my surrounding as much as possible and move slowly.

Good luck with your wildlife shooting!

[BradM]

Go sit in a river and watch and wait.


Maybe said a bit facetiously but it works, it is just what I did today with the exception I sat next to a slough and not in a river. These are a few of the shots I captured.

Nutria

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/Nov_Nutria3.jpg


Great Blue Heron

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/Nov_Heron2.jpg

And two of 3 River otters I watched fish

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/Nov_Otters8.jpg

[Naturalist]

Yeah, you have too dig up locations and then just persistently and patiently get out there. I frequent various National Forests, Conservation Areas and State Parks here in Missouri.

Once you start to find some locations that are suitable its a lot of patiently waiting (Quietly) just as a bowhunter would - and that even means using a hide (blind).

Vehicles work very well as a rolling hide since the animals do not spook near as much as they would had you been walking.

Here are some tips:
1. Do not SLAM the car door shut when you arrive on location. Gently push it shut - no sense in announcing to all the animal kingdom I AM HERE as the car door slams!

2. Walk to your location as an animal would. Only a human being walks through the woods as though there is no care in the world as he traverses from point A to B. Instead, do as the deer do: Take a few steps, stop, look around (you may see more photo ops on the way to the hide this way), then take another 3-4 steps and pause. Sure it takes longer to get there, but you are not disturbing the natural elements as much as you normally would by walking directly.

3. Silently and patiently wait within your hide, camouflage or ghillie suit. No smoking, chewing gum, coughing or other sounds.

You know how when you drop a rock into a pond a ring of water traverses the pond's surface, disturbing everything that had been going on beforehand? When you enter the outdoors, the woodlands, fields and streams to get some shots, you are upsetting the balance of things just as that stone in the pond had. It will take a couple of hours for things to settle down, for animals to return to their natural activities before they were alerted of your presence by your scent, sight and sounds.

[ctranter]

Maybe said a bit facetiously but it works, it is just what I did today with the exception I sat next to a slough and not in a river. These are a few of the shots I captured.

Not at all

http://www.pbase.com/image/83346609/original.jpg

[kartik]

Wow, I am glad someone started this thread. :-)

One question I always had about people who shoot in marshaes and water. How do you manage not to slip and destroy your gear? I mean I will be dead scared to walk in Mudflats with my 20D+100-400 (both not resistant to elements). For a pro it may not be a big deal, but do you have any tips for a beginner like me?

What I have realized so far is to have patience. Let the wildlife come to you. Let them get used to your presence and you will be awarded by not just great photo opportunities, but also some great experiences.

Cheers,
Kartik

[BradM]

I have a camo net, similar to the photo on page one. It works a treat for a lot of situations. A kingfisher actually came and sat on me :)

One of the "tools" I use on occasion is a similar camo net but I spent less than $20 on mine I think. Walmart carries a number of fabric bolts and at least one is a leaf style camo. That is the fabric has leaf shaped cutouts in the fabric, so they will move with the breeze or one can slit one or two open more to extend a lens.

It was only a few bucks a yard, I bought about 4 or 5 yards and some iron on velcro pieces. Cutting into a couple pieces and placing velcro around the edges in places I could make a drape, a poncho or whatever. They also had other color/patterns which I did the same to have different drapes to fit my surroundings closer.

[The_Camera_Poser]

Oh ho- someone doesn't live in the land of leeches.

It's sort of cheating, but going to the wildlife is a good way to go to- campgrounds in Australia are infested with critters. Actually, we are really blessed with wildlife in Oz- things are much more friendly here than in the US, unless you are a baby, in which case you should stay away from Dingos ;-) I frequently run into wallabies, possums, wombats and a range of reptiles when walking on relatively busy trails- they just sort of watch you cruise by from around 10-15 metres. Birds are very friendly here too.

[sfgp]

I've noticed that in a lot of the pictures taken of predators they seem to be looking right into the cameras. - Could this be because they hear the ultrasonic from the camera focus, and look at the source of an unfamilar sound to try to identify it as friend/foe/food?

Thoughts?

[alexanderGARDNER]

The best technique is time followed by familiarity with your subject and/or area.

Now in order to protect your gear you can use the good words of Doug. Patience is not only required in waiting for your subject but in how you traverse the terrain. Don't rush and you won't lose your footing. A tripod or monopod come in handy in offering support for you as well as the camera and if you don't like the water, waders go a long way in providing comfort.

[Pekka]

I've noticed that in a lot of the pictures taken of predators they seem to be looking right into the cameras. - Could this be because they hear the ultrasonic from the camera focus, and look at the source of an unfamilar sound to try to identify it as friend/foe/food?

Thoughts?

It's easy to do an empiric test:
AF on, see if the animal's behavior and attention changes.
AF off, use only MF, is there a difference?

[PBeeee]

I've noticed the eye contact quite a bit myself. But I have it in old film shots when the lenses certainly were not US/IS/AF. I think its the big, round, 'eye' looking at it.
And I think you would want to start with everything off first and see if the critter changes after you turn it on. Begging mercy for 'correcting' Pekka. Most humbled.

[BradM]

I've noticed that in a lot of the pictures taken of predators they seem to be looking right into the cameras. - Could this be because they hear the ultrasonic from the camera focus, and look at the source of an unfamilar sound to try to identify it as friend/foe/food?

Thoughts?

The USM? I doubt it, the shutter clicking more probable. I have often seen animals react to the shutter sound. And as mentioned the big eye pointing and tracking them doesn't help the discrete shot. Predators particularly raptors are well aware you are in the area and often just choose to ignore you.

[Glenn Abuja]

I agree with "justAL"
In the past I have fallen in the mud with a 400 mm prime on my body, my instinct was to save the gear and plant my body in the mud. There was no grace involved but once I was up on my feet my wife and I were able to laugh about it.
Use of animal calls can help with drawing them in a bit closer.

[dano57]

There is no difference between a wildlife photographer and a hunter except the choice of weapon. Personally I think if you want to shoot deer, then A. watch all the hunting shows on TV, B, find a local hunter (more is better) and ask them questions, C. study your prey (extremely important!). For example deer are the most active during the rut, around here that is mid Nov. you can see them all year long but the peak time is going on now.

The biggest thing is stealth, visually and scent wise. When you go into the wild you are in their territory and their survival is based upon keen senses. You must be hidden, quiet, and as oder free as possible. Watch wind direction because your scent can carry quite a ways. The last thing as mentioned above is patience! Be very still, don't talk, be prepared to stay motionless for hours on end and lastly don't give up.

[chauncey]

I have no aversion to cheating in order to get that shot.

Go to a local gun store and quiz them on local game and buy whatever "calls" (noisemakers to call the game) they have.
The internet has lots of hunting sites with similar information, but the locals know better.

The really good photogs get really close, like 25-50 yards close.

[Naturalist]

Talk about saving gear...

In Minnesota around 1988 I was photographing a friend as he ran his trapping line.

I was shooting a Nikon F with a 50mm lens and Velvia film and while looking through the camera's viewfinder I moved about the muskrat hut getting some good shots of him setting his traps when I heard ice cracking and before I knew it I was dropping into the water.

The camera and lens was thrust high into the air as I lunged towards and grabbed the side of the muskrat hut.

Water felt warm until I got out.

Things happen outdoors and that happened to me because I forgot to pay attention to the thin ice regions near the muskrat hut, where the muskrats swim in and out from it causing the ice to form much thinner due to the disturbed water and warmth from within the hut.

Lesson: Never lose situational awareness.

[CyberDyneSystems]

Merge...

We'll clean up the redundant stuff later, but please feel free to add add your tips here! :)
Thanks to those contributing! :mrgreen:

[garypeter99]

Brad, I have just joined this form this evening and I am staggered by your shots. I am also new to photography over the last month or so and would be in heaven if I could get shots like those.

Anyone got any tips or am I in the wrong place as a novice?

Hope you can help.
Gary

[BradM]

Brad, I have just joined this form this evening and I am staggered by your shots. I am also new to photography over the last month or so and would be in heaven if I could get shots like those.

Anyone got any tips or am I in the wrong place as a novice?

Hope you can help.
Gary

Thanks Gary, but I don't think you need to punch your ticket and gather your afterlife reward to get similar shots. ;) But if you do and can post some from the other side I KNOW people would be interested!

This is the right place to ask questions or inquire about some help. If you ask specific questions there are a lot of experts that will be happy to help you out, this is nice easy going place to learn. Welcome to the forum!

[garypeter99]

Hi guys, Gary again from UK.

Thanks for the welcome Brad and if after a couple of months things don't get better, I will do paper folding and sell the camera.

My first question is this, should I use the manual settings or stick with the fully auto options.

I have tried both and but was not happy with the results. It may even be me and my lack of skill causing the problem, the shots are just not pin sharp. Sure I get the odd one but thats more luck than anything else.

I am using the Rebel XTi with a 100-400 and a 55-250 IS and for wide shots a 10-22 USM. What the numbers mean I have no idea. I was told the 100-400 was a good unit for what I wanted to do so it was purchased.

How do I send pictures? after clicking the icon it is asking for a URL for my picture...! mine are just j-peg.

[garypeter99]

Hope this works.


Here is a shot that is ok in my mind but it lacks real punch and the background is not out of focus enough.

Any tips would very very welcome.

Gary

[BradM]

Hi guys, Gary again from UK.

Thanks for the welcome Brad and if after a couple of months things don't get better, I will do paper folding and sell the camera.

My first question is this, should I use the manual settings or stick with the fully auto options.

I have tried both and but was not happy with the results. It may even be me and my lack of skill causing the problem, the shots are just not pin sharp. Sure I get the odd one but thats more luck than anything else.

I am using the Rebel XTi with a 100-400 and a 55-250 IS and for wide shots a 10-22 USM. What the numbers mean I have no idea. I was told the 100-400 was a good unit for what I wanted to do so it was purchased.

How do I send pictures? after clicking the icon it is asking for a URL for my picture...! mine are just j-peg.

If by fully auto you are speaking to the green box, P mode or one of icon mode (running man etc.) I would suggest that you can be better served shooting in AV, TV or manual. There are are number of advocates for each, personally I will most often be shooting AV because I want control over the depth of field in the shot.

One needs practice or constant referral to a dof table before they can become comfortable with which aperture will result in the range of focus one might want, one reason is that the range of acceptable focus will vary depending on the focal length used and the distance to the subject. The closer one is to the subject the narrower the DOF is at an equivalent f/stop, the further the deeper the dof is. There is a number of books that will explain this and other issues with d-SLR's, one that that is often recommended and I got it for my gf to assist her learning is: Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson, an excellent text that will make clear a number of the relationships differing settings one might use in the camera and speaks to some techniques that help get the look in a shot you might want.

The numbers you listed are the focal lengths of your lenses. If you consider that what you view with your eyes are roughly equal to 50mm then you can extrapolate that a 100-400mm lens will give a telephoto view of about twice (50mm x 2=100mm) to eight times(50mm x 8 = 400mm) of what you could see unassisted. This then explains why your 10-22mm lens is considered a wide angle lens, it can "see" roughly four to five times more than your eyes can. These estimates are very rough and are much more an analogy then a specific value so take them with a large salt block.

The other major numbers on your lenses you didn't quote are the aperture ranges, for example your 100-400mm has these numbers on the lens barrel: f/4.5 - 5.6. Meaning the maximum aperture varies across the zoom range, at 100mm is a f/4.5 and at 400mm it is f/5.6. I believe it is about an f/5 at 200mm.

What these numbers mean is the lens ability to gather light, the lower the number the larger the aperture (which is the area where light can pass in the lens barrel) and the better ability to gather light. Or in other words faster shutter speeds are available for use in all conditions, albeit with a trade off. The larger the aperture which is the smaller the number, the depth of field narrows down. An explanation of the values and their calculation is a bit much for here but that book I recommended has an excellent explanation of how aperture can effect a shot.

It appears that you did find how to post images so I won't point you to the thread that shows the specifics.

On your gear for shooting birds and wildlife if I can make one suggestion that will make your images sharper it would be this: stop your lens down. If you were to shoot a detailed subject as a test, anything would do. But shoot a shot or two at f/5.6 like you did with the osprey and then a shot or two at f/8 you will find the image sharpness will increase dramatically. In my experience this lens will respond very, very well if it can be shot between f/7.1 to f/9. Light and technique will have an impact but this tip alone with all others equal can make a great difference in image quality.

[garypeter99]

Brad, thank you so much for spending the time to type up this information. I have also been over the rest of the thread and gained a fare bit today.

The F numbers now make perfect sense so shooting in AV around F8 with the 100-400 will yield better results. This seems like a good starting point so practice will start as soon as the rain stops over here.

These shots were taken in Florida a couple of months a go and the sun was very bright, making viewing images impossible after taking them. So if they were good or bad I had no way of finding out until I returned back to base. However, I did find good use for the histogram. This gave some idea of exposure if the screen could not be viewed.

As for the literature by Bryan Peterson, I have just ordered a copy and should be with my in a week. Seemed a good purchase for $14 about £12.

Lastly, what is meant by “stop down” when referring to the lens?

Thanks again Brad
Gary

[garypeter99]

Oops, I forgot to ask.

ISO, is it best left alone or should I be altering it for various shots and is there a best setting for it?

Thanks again.

Gary

[garypeter99]

Any reply to the ISO question guys...?

It would be great to have a handle on what ISO to use.

Thanks again.

Gary

[jbdavies]

Oops, I forgot to ask.

ISO, is it best left alone or should I be altering it for various shots and is there a best setting for it?

Thanks again.

Gary
I'm no expert... at all, but when I was at one of our zoos the other week I had my ISO between 200 and 400 and between f/2.8 and f/4.

You don't want to go too high with the ISO because then you'll get lots of noise. But, if you go too low, then you have to worry about human movement and animal movement.

Hope this helps... somewhat. :)

[sam walker]

most birders claim Never where white while birding. Bunk I hunt rare little birds where giant white egrets are flying near. Doesn't seem to phase them. I normally am dressed dark or drab anyhow. All I can say is some individuals remain calm at close contact while others flush. It's always a roll of the dice.
Sam

[garypeter99]

Cheers for that Jeremy.

Having just had a look at the manual about ISO and is says to increase the ISO in low ligh shooting. If I do this will I still get the noise you mentioned?

Noise....is that like a graining on the shot?

Gary

[Kiddo]

I have two pop up blinds, 3 differing types of camoflage nets/drapes, and a ghillie suit and I don't use any of them anymore except in very rare circumstances.

As I am not usally shooting anything longer than 400mm, the 300-800mm is just a pain in the field with all of the required accessories, this means I need to get close if I want a detailed image.

It has been my experience that if I wear clothing in earth tones and a hat (very important) and nothing white I can sit quietly on my combination stool/backpack, or the ground and have the animals approach me. If I need to get closer a slow crawl will do the job.

As previously mentioned the main point is not to appear to be what the particular species considers a threat or predator. Avoiding walking about, standing, quick movements, talking, singing, humming and whistling or other behaviors that indicate you are a human and the animals will often ignore you and approach.

Here is just a few shots of the hundreds I have captured at under 400mm's without using any blind or other device. The first shots I was actually wearing black/yellow ballastic nylon motorcycle gear crawling along a beach to get within 7 meters.



http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/dowitcher85b.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/rainyredtail5.jpg





http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/coyotenutria2.jpg
Love that last image....

Oh and great info in this thread too!!!

[jbdavies]

Cheers for that Jeremy.

Having just had a look at the manual about ISO and is says to increase the ISO in low ligh shooting. If I do this will I still get the noise you mentioned?

Noise....is that like a graining on the shot?

Gary
Yes. Generally speaking, the higher the ISO the more noise you'll have.

And yes, the grain that you would see is noise. :)

[condyk]

Very useful info Brad. Thanks a lot for spending time to share it.

Gary, a useful thing to do is practice with simple subjects to see what the impact of different settings is. Best to practice using manual where you seek to get the right combination of shutter speed, aperture and ISO. That's how I learnt but I now shoot mainly AV mode. In the Uk we do have issues with light and a great shot is all about the light. Modern camera bodies will allow for higher ISO while retaining quality and reducing impact of noise. The easy thing to do with your 100-400mm IS L is try and keep it f8.0, stick it in AV mode and set ISO to 400 ... and if light is not great then 800. If light is bright then drop the ISO to 100 or 200. I reckon you'd get some decent shots on average that route. But better to learn manual shooting first and then get lazy ;-)

[garypeter99]

Wow, that is one tempting link for that trip....very very tempting.

Ok, I will start to play about with ISO and make comparisons in various light levels on F8. Talk about having a dilema. That Swaziland trip look the bizz.

Thanks agin for your input.

Regards
Gary

[condyk]

That Swaziland trip look the bizz.


Yeah ... it's a great route. I put a lot of time into it ;-) It'll be crazy with wildlife. Can't wait to get out there again.

[Tom Reichner]

Hello, Jeremy!
I've found that for photographing most birds, a blind is necessary. This is especially true of wild ducks and gamebirds that have never become habituated to humans. Even when in a well-made blind this can be a challenge. The best images are almost invariably those taken at a remarkably close distance. Even if the birds can't see you, just the act of moving the camera into position will freak them out, and often they'll flee before you can focus and compose. The best thing to do has been to have one specific spot in mind. I get my camera all set up - pointing and focused on an area at which I think a subject is most likely to appear. I keep my body positioned so that when one does show up at that exact spot, I can get my eye to the viewfinder with very minimal movement. Of course, with very skittish wildlife, the noise of the shutter opening and closing often spooks the subject away, so you want to make your first shot count, for you may not get another. Wildlife that is somewhat used to human proximity is not nearly so difficult to shoot, although they still don't normally allow you to get within 3 to 6 yards. I wish you luck with your wildlife outings! -Tom

[jbdavies]

Hello, Jeremy!
I've found that for photographing most birds, a blind is necessary. This is especially true of wild ducks and gamebirds that have never become habituated to humans. Even when in a well-made blind this can be a challenge. The best images are almost invariably those taken at a remarkably close distance. Even if the birds can't see you, just the act of moving the camera into position will freak them out, and often they'll flee before you can focus and compose. The best thing to do has been to have one specific spot in mind. I get my camera all set up - pointing and focused on an area at which I think a subject is most likely to appear. I keep my body positioned so that when one does show up at that exact spot, I can get my eye to the viewfinder with very minimal movement. Of course, with very skittish wildlife, the noise of the shutter opening and closing often spooks the subject away, so you want to make your first shot count, for you may not get another. Wildlife that is somewhat used to human proximity is not nearly so difficult to shoot, although they still don't normally allow you to get within 3 to 6 yards. I wish you luck with your wildlife outings! -Tom
Thanks for all the info!! I'll definitely keep that in mind. I just gotta get a longer lens now. ;)

[drchoate]

Jeremy,

I use a small chair blind. It's not too heavy, and it provides great concealment.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21424-cat540014&id=0059875229350a&navCount=2&podId=0059875&parentId=cat540014&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=XJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat601233&hasJS=true

Darren

[jbdavies]

Jeremy,

I use a small chair blind. It's not too heavy, and it provides great concealment.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21424-cat540014&id=0059875229350a&navCount=2&podId=0059875&parentId=cat540014&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=XJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat601233&hasJS=true

Darren
Cool!

Thank you Darren. :)

[BeyondMegapixels]

We recently completed a wildlife 101 series that I think a few of you might be interested.

http://www.beyondmegapixels.com/2009/05/wildlife-101/

bw!

[Tom Reichner]

. . . why try to get shots when the animal you want is the most wary and aware of differences in their enviornment? While a camera gives you the opportunity to "hunt" these animals year round, often in many areas the period you be should out after them is limited.

As mentioned time of year makes a BIG difference in the ability to capture different species. And usually the best time is the winter for diurnal predators, days are short, these animals must eat and are often seen much more often than during the days we humans normally prefer to be out when the light is long and days are warm and dry.

When it moves in to Spring and animals are raising their current litter, brood or clutch they must hunt much more often to feed the young, again they are much more active and much less to be dramatically disturbed by human intrusion if it is quiet and discrete.


I completely agree with BradM. The original post asked what we do to get close. I would say, more than anything else, that what I do to get close is to pursue the subject at the time of year when it is easiest to approach within camera range.

With many, many subjects this means their breeding season. Why would I waste time chasing wary Whitetail bucks around in the summer and early fall? I will most likely not get quality images. Even if I were to luck into a good shot or two, the amount of time it would take per quality capture would just not be an efficient use of time afield. I can go after Whitetail bucks in November, when they are rutting and chasing does around. At this time, often even the wariest of bucks will throw caution to the wind if he's pursuing a doe that is in heat. This is the time to go out and 'shoot' these critters. Of course, if I want images of bucks in velvet, I'll have to get out earlier. And if there is a place where the deer are protected and habituated to human proximity, you can often get decent images regardless of the season. But for most deer in most locations, November is by far the most productive time to get out there.

Other species have their seasons, too. Sage grouse, mid March thru mid April, when they display. Ringneck Pheasants, mid-winter, when food and daylight are both scarce. Predators, as Brad said, mid-winter. Bighorn Sheep, late Oct and November, when they rut. Ruffed grouse, April and early May, when they drum. Grizzly Bears, right after most of the snow melts in the spring. Elk, mid September thru mid October, when they rut.

Time of year is one of the most useful tools a wildlife photographer has at their disposal for getting close to the subject.

[alycetaylor]

...
Time of year is one of the most useful tools a wildlife photographer has at their disposal for getting close to the subject.

This is true even with songbirds in urban areas. Winter and spring, when they are the most hungry and least cautious. You can get a bluejay to get seed from iwthin a few feet of you, when they won't come anywhere near you in summer.

[job13_5]

Does anyone have tips on determining if a deer bed or game trail is fresh and often used? I've found a nice set of beds and trails in beautiful grass that seems like they would make great scenes, but I don't know if they're still being used. I see pretty fresh looking tracks and occassional scat but I can't seem to nail down an area that would bring me the best luck.

I think I'd need to get pretty close to get good shots, since my biggest lense is a 17-70mm on a 1.6 crop, so any advice would be much appreciated!

Cheers!

[BradM]

Fresh scat from animals like deer, elk, coyote will look moist, it will lay on top of grasses, it will be in fairly tight pile and not scattered about as it dries it will get spread by other animals traveling by or investigating it.

Depending on the grounds moisture level tracks can be aged by the firmness of the outline, a fresh track in moist or slightly moist ground will have easily crumbled edges, if you touch it and spreads out it is fresh, older will be firmer and more defined.

Bent or broken grasses, shrubs and limbs are clear indicators of animals (or people) traveling through. Rubs & scrapes and beds are easy to tell if fresh or older, just look for fresh abrasions or grasses bent over that are still fresh.

Really all it takes is a close inspection to note what might be recent or older "damage", most animals are creatures of habit and will re-use trails however many animals have very large ranges and may only pass the point you have found once or twice a week, or just during certain times of the year when a specific food item is available in that area.

Usually the best choices are those areas that have the feed the specific animal you are looking for is available, that there is water and the habitiat that supports the animals is available.

For example even though you may find a beautiful patch of clover that deer and elk find inviting and there is a small stream or pond directly adjacent with several copses of dense woods they can bed down in but it is in an urban center may make the wait for that nice bull or buck shot a long wait. ;)

[job13_5]

Great tips! Thanks! I'll have to inspect the area again and consider what you've said.

[Methodical]

I've been photographing birds for almost 1 year now and my technique is to wear dark clothes and get tuck into a brushy area and set up my camera and tripod and just wait silently. Just the other day, I was able to get some really close shots of the Bluebirds, Cedar Waxwings, Great Flycatcher and the Phoebe; they perched right in a dead tree about 10-15' from me. I decided that I wanted to get a little more stealth so I purchased a camo shirt and pants. I also purchased a rifle sock to cover my lenses; cost only $10 which is way less than those lens covers that go for $80-$100 bucks and it covers the entire lens and not just sections. I also purchase some camo netting that I will iron on some velcro and use it to cover the lens, tripod and myself; I like to be mobile in the field. I looked into the Quik Camo but figured I could design my own. I am still considering the 1 man chair blind but that would be for special occasions, such as when I won't be mobile; have not decided yet though.

[S.Horton]

Shortcut: Visit a Cabela's sometime, look at what the bow hunters are using, then look up their techniques...

[badgerdid]

Jeremy,

I use a small chair blind. It's not too heavy, and it provides great concealment.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21424-cat540014&id=0059875229350a&navCount=2&podId=0059875&parentId=cat540014&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=XJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat601233&hasJS=true

Darren

I was looking at these but wondered are they big enough to have the camera on a tripod?

I would need room for the camera bag, flask etc.

As you use one, is there room to sit and have the camera on a tripod and still reach a flask, we have to have our coffee.

[Methodical]

I have one and yes you will have room


I was looking at these but wondered are they big enough to have the camera on a tripod?

I would need room for the camera bag, flask etc.

As you use one, is there room to sit and have the camera on a tripod and still reach a flask, we have to have our coffee.

[ImageryMasters]

Not sure of others here about using blinds or hides, But I use what they call a bushrag something like a snipers outfit. I just make sure not to be in the woods during hunting season, works great if you move slow or not at all.

[Methodical]

Any pics?


Not sure of others here about using blinds or hides, But I use what they call a bushrag something like a snipers outfit. I just make sure not to be in the woods during hunting season, works great if you move slow or not at all.

[jbdavies]

http://www.ghilliegear.com/images/bushrag%20ghillie%20suit%20lg.gif

[Methodical]

I don't think hunters aren't the only one's you will have to worry about...law enforcement:p

http://www.ghilliegear.com/images/bushrag%20ghillie%20suit%20lg.gif

[jbdavies]

Haha. I have yet to have any problems. And I have that exact thing. ;)

[res]

Run a search for ghillie suit and watch what pops up. Even amazon sells them. Many of the hunting supply stores (Cabela's, Bass Pro, etc) also carry variations. Rick

Not sure of others here about using blinds or hides, But I use what they call a bushrag something like a snipers outfit. I just make sure not to be in the woods during hunting season, works great if you move slow or not at all.

[Hntr]

Good info on this thread, I've been bowhunting all my life, both deer and turkey. I use a full ScentLok suit for deer, facemask, everything. I've had my suit for about six or seven years and it still works great. Most of the time for photography I use some netting stapled on 3 foot wooden rods, find a nice tree for my back, uprooted trees work great, I set my mini-blind up and sit down and wait. One very important thing, be comfortable, otherwise you will be fidgeting. I even have a homemade screen that mounts on my camera barrel. All these helps, but almost every deer I have photographed inside of twenty yards has heard the click of the camera.

I took these pictures while standing out in the open in the middle of a fire lane in a state park. I had woods for a background, very little wind blowing. I heard something coming out of the woods so I stop. You can see the rest. The buck was probably twenty yards away, looked right at me, but didn't bolt. He was tracking a doe so he wasn't quite in his best defense mode. He went forty or fifty yards to my right. I gave him a couple of grunts on my grunt tube, he stopped look at me for a ten or fifteen seconds, then he turned around and ran right past me again. And I blew the shot of my life!

It was probably less than sixty seconds from the time he came out until the time he was back in the woods. And yes, I'm a better hunter than a photographer.


.................... http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8260/imageb200911060081c1.jpg


....................http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7240/imageb200911060082c1.jpg



.................... http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7127/imageb200911060083c1.jpg



....................http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5756/imageb200911060084c1.jpg


....................http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/1176/imageb200911060086c1.jpg


.................... http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/9620/imageb200911060088c1.jpg



....................http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2889/imageb200911060090.jpg



....................http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/7366/imageb200911060110.jpg

[sam walker]

Good on you Nice buck. Pretty enough to still hang on your wall without taking off his head.It is all luck almost ervery time I see a whitetail It's a doe. If i see a buck he's in the shade or behind a trunk.Great shots.
Sam

[Tom Reichner]

That's a nice buck there, Hntr. Yes, during the rut they will sometimes expose themselves like this. These are the best opportunities, as working from a blind has it's disadvantages with deer. By the way, what was the date when you took these images - mid-November?

[Hntr]

Thanks Sam and Tom! I took those shots on November 6, 2009.

These are the other bucks I saw the same morning. The first nice buck I photographed while it was still fairly dark, I was shooting at 1600 ISO and F8, but I still didn' t have enough light.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUdL2XQb34c


Tom,I really enjoyed the buck photos in your gallery, great looking bucks! The fighting buck photos were awesome!! I chanced upon a couple of bucks fighting near my work one day, I only had my video camera.

This is what I got: http://www.vimeo.com/7326452

[K31Scout]

Nice shots Hntr. I'm a bowhunter too and there is a lot of good info here. I sometimes get within 5 yards of nervous MI whitetails by doing these things.

1. Put the wind in my face or at least quartering towards me.
2. Leafy suit or Ghillie suit. It breaks up the human outline unbelievably well!
3. I'm white so I have to cover my face or it's the first thing they see; with a mask or camo makeup will do.
4. Be comfortable for long stretchs by taking a cushion to sit on.
5. Take some shelled corn, an apple or acorns and toss them out where you think game travel to get them to stop and investigate. Be carful of your scent and what you touch or step. Most game animals are like blood hounds.
6. Don't over hunt the same spot. Visit it once a week. If you spook game, leave it for a couple of weeks.

To find game in the first place try driving rural roads at dawn and dusk when they are most active in the daylight hours. Most are creatures of habit and have travel routes between bedding and feeding areas. Set up close to these places with the wind in your favor and be ready.

[Hntr]

Thanks K31Scout!

Good points you brought too.

[amohajeran]

Hi every body

i am glad to read about your experience regarding hides and staying hidden in wildlife photography, in the areas that i work getting close to animals are extremely hard so i use different types of hides mostly made of the nature elements such as rocks, bushes, and also camouflage dresses and ... here is a few photos of hides that i use. for most of the cases i made hides at least 2 months before photography and let the animals get used to the change in their habitat.

[competent123]

1- most of the animals smell humans from far away, and the first thing they know from experience is RUN, and even if they dont' run, they know at least to hide or be very cautious, ( none of which we as photographers like)

so i personally try to use some wet dirt and grass on myself, it is sometime amazing what difference does that make in behavior of animals when they dont' smell humans.

[Tom Reichner]

That looks like an awesome blind, amohajeran.

What area (country/state) is that in? It looks like a rather barren desert kind of area. What critters do you shoot there?

[amohajeran]

Dear Tom, Its Yazd Province, Siyah Kouh Desert, In Iran and i shot mostly Gazella(Gazella dorcas) and wild sheep (Ovis orientalis) and some Birds like Cream-colored Courser (Cursorius cursor) such as this sample.

[400dabuser]

If you don't have camouflage or a particularly long lens, you can hide your approach using the foliage around you, something I learnt only last year

A tree helped me hide my approach so I could take photos of Egyptian goose (male and female)

[Overtrim]

Great tips from everyone. I hunted for many years including bowhunting, so I am quite used to being close to wildlife. It saddens me to think of all the great shots I could have gotten if I was in to photography back then! That is the way it is though...Here are a few thoughts of mine to consider.

Using the vehicle as a cover- while this does probably work in areas where deer are used to seeing vehicles, it does not always work in a real world environment. I have watched deer's reactions to vehicles during hunting season and they are not good. Some deer will go WAY around the vehicle because they associate it with a predator (especially bucks).

When I am trying to stalk an animal, I use natural cover to block my outline. Move very slowly and walk in a way that there is always a tree or bush between you and what you are going towards. It takes a lot of patience to get close in the wild. This does not apply at places like nature centers and parks obviously.

Don't be afraid to just sit and wait-A lot of times animals scatter like crazy when you are running through the woods. I have found that if you just sit down and wait, they will come back. Patience can pay off in more ways then one. I like deer, but while waiting for deer to show up I often see a lot of squirrels and birds hanging out at close ranges. If you are careful to be still, you will probably be surrounded by wildlife.

Pop up blinds are excellent- If you know anything about turkeys, you will know that they often scatter at the slightest movement(in the wild). I have found that a pop-up blind works great to counteract this phenomena. With a popup blind in place, I have been surrounded by about 10 hen turkeys within 8-10 feet for a period of about an hour. The only reason they go scared off is because I moved to a different spot. I have also called in a 20+ pound tom within 10 feet. Missed the shot, however because the safety was on but that is another story in itself. Another benefit of the popup blind is that you can get away with moving around more and not wearing camo.

I am new to this forum, but, wanted to add a couple of things. Most hunters look too high for deer. I found more deer laying on the ground than standing while I am stalking. If you think you are moving too slow, then SLOW DOWN! Look at every bush or fallen logs as far ahead as you can. If it is during hunting season, then wear your orange vest or cap, A 140 grain 30.06 makes and terrible large hole on exit from your chest.

[mn shutterbug]

Birds get used to blinds in their neighborhood pretty fast. A couple years ago, I saw a kingfisher sitting at the top of a lone dead tree on the edge of a slough. Every time I went by, he was there but there was no way to get close. I brought my large blind along one day and set it up out in the open within range, and it took just a few minutes after flushing him and he was back at the top of the snag. This was the only way I have ever got a decent pic of a Belted Kingfisher. They are incredibly skittish.