Light Meters $$ whats the difference?

[epeace]

I recently got a couple strobes and have been playing around with them. I pretty much just go by feel and have come out with decent results . .

http://ezrapeacephotography.com/images/CRW_1161.jpg

however, i know that for more granular control i will, at some point, need to get my ratios down scientific like (when using multiple strobes). to do this i will require a meter of some sort.

which brings me to my question. there are meters for $15 US and there are meters for over $800 US. this may sound like a stupid question (maybe it is) but whats the difference. clearly the $800 Broncolor light meter is of better quality than a $15 DeJur . . .. but what specifically is the difference .. more features im assuming? what are these features . .

the reason i ask is . . what seems to be the light meter of choice where i read is the Sekonic L-358 . . i just dont know if i should drop the $250 to get it or if i could perhaps get by using a cheaper alternative until i feel like spending the dough . . . .

im sure theres a reason i should just get the sekonic and forget it (aside from doing it right the first time) . . but i would like to hear the reason anyway . .

[OceanRider]

i look forward to any suggestions as I am in the same boat!

[sdommin]

For your purposes, the major difference is that only some (the more expensive ones) can read the exposure from a flash unit. The cheaper ones can only read the constant light levels (i.e., they're not quick enough to read flash).

The real question is: why would you bother with a light meter in today's world of digital, where you can just as easily judge your exposure a split second after you take the photo instead of trying to get it right before you take the photo. You're going to look at the LCD anyway to see if your lighting is right, aren't you?

[epeace]

The real question is: why would you bother with a light meter in today's world of digital, where you can just as easily judge your exposure a split second after you take the photo instead of trying to get it right before you take the photo.well thats kind of how i have been doing it . . . ill take a few test shots to get my bearings . . . but it seems that in my mock studio the same settings pretty much work for most lighting arrangements i have experimented with . .
i guess i was interested in a meter to experiment with different ratios that i have read about to see the results from that . . also i know several pros that shoot almost all digital and they still use light meters . . You're going to look at the LCD anyway to see if your lighting is right, aren't you?ever since the chimping thread i have found myself using the review significantly less . . i was amazed at the battery life i saved by simply turning the review off . . the way i see it . . if you know what you're doing you will get the shot . .

[sdommin]

ever since the chimping thread i have found myself using the review significantly less . . i was amazed at the battery life i saved by simply turning the review off . . the way i see it . . if you know what you're doing you will get the shot . .

I consider the review function one of the best things about digital photography, and I don't care if it has a derogatory name or not. Sure, it uses a bit more battery power, but if you're intentionally going to not use it to its fullest extent, you might as well be using film!

[scottbergerphoto]

The more expensive meters like the Sekonic L508 have 1 degree spotmeters, digital read outs in the spotmeter and very low light sensitivity. The may also be more water resistant. You don't need these things for most studio situations. I reccommend the Sekonic L358, the $25 Pocket Wizard Module for it, and a set of Pocket Wizard's Plus.
Scott

[FlipsidE]

I completely agree with Scott's recommendation.

FlipsidE

[snibbetsj]

I completely agree with Scott's recommendation.

FlipsidE

Me too!

I use the Sekonic L358 for studio photography. It's the best way to set light ratios and my exposures are right on from the git go. Sure, you can take a guess and chimp and reset (several times or more) but if you've got people sitting there waiting for you to shoot there photo it looks pretty silly.

[epeace]

thats what i figured . . . better to know than guess. .

sdommin . . i didnt stop using the review because of shame . . it was more out of curiosity . . what i discovered shocked me . . my battery life went from hours to days for one . . second i found that i just dont need to review every shot after its taken . . i have to have a bit of confidence in my ability as a photographer and as a bonus i have found a better momentum to my shoots when i dont feel the need to stop after every shot or every few shots . . besides . . the benefits to digital photography go far beyond the review function . . primarily in post prod . .

so the sekonic L358 holds popularity . . so is the consensus that i should just get it and not mess with a cheaper meter?

[w10d]

Not sure what's in the Sekonic range now - I bought the cheapest Flash meter they made in 1993, an L-308: I still use it today, & I've never found the need for anything more elaborate. If you're doing still life & want to measure multiple flashes & refer to memory functions, obviously you'd need more, but I've been very pleased with the sekonic.

[NGrinerPhoto]

Not sure what's in the Sekonic range now - I bought the cheapest Flash meter they made in 1993, an L-308: I still use it today, & I've never found the need for anything more elaborate. If you're doing still life & want to measure multiple flashes & refer to memory functions, obviously you'd need more, but I've been very pleased with the sekonic.

i use the 308 too - it's digital, really simple to use and $180 at b&h - nick

[blinking8s]

im still pretty new to the strobing and studio work, but I was looking at the alienbees which are synced wirelessly (thats how it read) to each other then a cable to the camera...

would the wireless module on the 358 fire the strobes? or do they have to be connected into something like the pocket wizzard...why would you want the meter to be wireless? what advantage does this have?

[PhotosGuy]

Lighting ratios:
1 light at 5.6' & another at 8' = 1-stop difference = 2X the light.
1 light at 5.6' & another at 11' = 2-stops difference = 4X the light.
See the relationship between f-stops as numbers & f-stops as a measure of distance? Do you really need a meter for that? ;-)

[w10d]

See the relationship between f-stops as numbers & f-stops as a measure of distance? Do you really need a meter for that? ;-)

For what? Measuring distance??

[epeace]

would the wireless module on the 358 fire the strobes? or do they have to be connected into something like the pocket wizzard...why would you want the meter to be wireless? what advantage does this have?the alienbees strobes are triggered by any of three methods: flash, direct cable, or infrared. the L358 will fire the strobes via infrared. the advantage to going wireless is that you would be untethered and free to move about the shot area without regard to obstacles.Lighting ratios:
1 light at 5.6' & another at 8' = 1-stop difference = 2X the light.
1 light at 5.6' & another at 11' = 2-stops difference = 4X the light.
See the relationship between f-stops as numbers & f-stops as a measure of distance? Do you really need a meter for that? ;-)it is my understanding that the f stop numbers are ratios of focal length to aperature diameter not distance to subject. ie a 100mm lens at f/4 would be an aperature of 25mm (or focal length / 4)

[PhotosGuy]

For what? Measuring distance?? Measuring lighting ratios? Given identical lights set at identical outputs, you can set the ratio by eye after a while.

[w10d]

Measuring lighting ratios? Given identical lights set at identical outputs, you can set the ratio by eye after a while.

What is the point? Given a £100 flash meter can measure the combined output at any spot you choose, as well as an individual light's output, why restrict yourself to using identical lights at identical outputs, just so you can judge it? Plus, what happens when you use a shoot through brolly on one head, a beauty dish or soft box on another & bounce b/g flash off polyboards; even if all the heads are equal in type & power readings from them aren't going to be the same!

Kind of defeats the object of using asymmetrical packs too....

[PhotosGuy]

The first 2 posts asked for suggestions & I posted an alternative.
If you only work in a studio, all that equipment is fine. But if you often travel over thousands of miles, you quickly learn to pare down the equipment to the bare minimum that will get the job done in a professional manner. Meters, etc. can die at the worst times, so then what? It helps to learn other methods of working as a back-up.

[w10d]

Nothing wrong with learning how things work, or alternative ways of working. But, to me a light meter is one of the most basic (& lightweight) items a professional photographer carries. This thread is about using meters with off camera flash - where the built in meter can't be used. As such I don't think it's really helpful to be saying, "use 2 identical lights, on the same power settings, measure the distances & work out the exposure, see, you don't need a meter..."

If you're traveling over thousands of miles AND taking flash kit with you, a meter isn't going to make much difference is it? If you're hiring flash on location then you can hire a meter too.

Yes, meters can 'die', but that doesn't mean you shouldn't have one in the first place!

[PhotosGuy]

He said, "I recently got a couple strobes and have been playing around with them. I pretty much just go by feel and have come out with decent results."
So I offered some advice that will help him now.

Re: " If you're traveling over thousands of miles AND taking flash kit with you, a meter isn't going to make much difference is it?"
It does if it quits & you don't know how to compensate.

Re: " Yes, meters can 'die', but that doesn't mean you shouldn't have one in the first place!"
I didn't say never buy one. I said, "Do you really need a meter for that?", when I was talking about judging distance.

[w10d]

He said, "I recently got a couple strobes and have been playing around with them. I pretty much just go by feel and have come out with decent results."
So I offered some advice that will help him now.


Re-read the WHOLE of the question - it was about buying a cheap meter, or a more expensive one. NOT about whether or not to buy a meter. Clearly the poster is capable of using his lighting without a meter, but wants to move on. Sounds to me like you're not telling him anything new.

Re: " If you're traveling over thousands of miles AND taking flash kit with you, a meter isn't going to make much difference is it?"
It does if it quits & you don't know how to compensate.

Why are you still going on about meters dying??? I've seen RZ's pack-up, flash tubes explode, packs die, HMI bulbs burst - I've never seen a flash meter die, not mine or any of the photographers I assisted. Even the battery drain is so low I've never been left with a dead battery, I'll change the single AA in my Sekonic months after it hit the half empty mark. Get a quality meter & lets move on. Anyway, the poster clearly has been successfully using his lights - he knows how to get by without a meter.

My contribution to this thread was based on my experience of Sekonic flash meters - most of the photographers I assisted used more expensive Minolta's. One even told me his meter was worth more than his car! But a Sekonic was all I could afford when I started out, & it's still going strong.

I've known photographers who have a couple of lighting set-up that they use all the time in their studios - the lights are positioned exactly the same each time & they don't need to meter. But if you want more flexibility (& I think most people do), you need a meter to work with; as I said way back, once you put any modifier in front of a head the light readings on your subject will change, a meter is the only way to really know what is happening with your light.

Buy a good one.

[PhotosGuy]

I think I've had enough of this. Bye!

[epeace]

I will be buying the Sekonic L358 this week. Thanks