Things to check right after you bring your camera home

[Raj]

Hi,

This is just a suggestion so please consider it, If it sounds not so fruitful, please discard.

Wont it be useful if we have a sticky thread mentioning some critical things to check right after we purchase the camera (things which usually cant be tested in store). For example shoot a few sky images to check pixels/dust or may be run some checks etc.

As a new owner it scared me a couple of times when I read posts where people mentioned they discovered issues when it was too late or so. Everytime I read something like that I just got the feeling "I got to test my camera for this right after I go back home ..."

I see a lot lot of such questions on forum & people attemtping to answer same stuff...
(Me doing the same :) )

This may not be a issue for more experienced people but can certanly help newbie's like me.

As I said, this is just a suggestion, if similiar work has been done already, I apologize for my ignorance on forum contents. I am not even sure if it is possible to generalize some sort of checklist ...

Cheers

[CyberDyneSystems]

Go for it Raj,..

You Start the list here and I'll add it to the EOS sticky thread...

[robertwgross]

I would preface the list with the things to check before you leave the store.

1. Make sure that all of the parts are in the package, e.g. the camera body, the body cap, the lens, the lens caps, strap, battery, charger, USB cable, manual, etc.
2. Then make any last minute purchase of CF cards.

When you get the thing home, browse the part of the manual that discusses the battery and charger. Stick the battery into a charger and get that started. Then read the manual at least one time through. When the battery is ready, then you start back at the front of the manual and let it step you through operation.

---Bob Gross---

[Raj]

1. After getting home, insert the CF card & run a a few shots to make sure the camera works, play around with menus to make sure all buttons work as well

I would test the sensor as it is the most critical component
A. General observation: Take few shots of sky in a clear day & look. Download the images to PC & check visually for any strange spots.
B. Run a dead /hot pixel - in case sensor has dead pixels this may be helpful.
Free utility & details at
http://www.starzen.com/imaging/deadpixeltest.htm

[BearSummer]

Hi Folks,

I know this is probably obvious to the "old timers" but for those who are new, when shooting your first blue sky pictures use high f stops f16-f32 as these will show up the "crud" on your chip more than those shot at f8 and below. (personally we dont get much blue sky in the uk wo I open up word or notepad on my laptop, set the lens to manual focus and set to infinity then take a picture of the white screen, as I'm so close to the screen all detaqil is lost and the dust shows up easily, also means you can clean your camera after dark)

When buying a lens take a small flashlight with you, take the top and bottom covers off the lens, hold it at about 45 degrees and shine the light through it. Rotate the lens as you look through it and look for dust, flakes of paint or scratches, if you see anything ask for another copy of the lens. Do this from both sides of the lens. Way back when I had to turn down two new 75-300 IS lenses as one had a 2cm scratch on the inside of the front optic and the other had a paint flake floating around somewhere inside. You wont see these on your photos but it will cause added flare to your pictures.

best regards

BearSummer

[Andy_T]

Difficult question.

Basically, I think it might be best to do some kinds of tests and 'measurebations' immediately to determine whether you have received a bad copy that you should return to the shop immediately.

On the other hand, it might be even better for your peace of mind not to do all kinds of tests at all ... and instead see if the pictures you take in real life are good enough :lol:

So you can decide whether you want to
- test your camera and lenses for front- or backfocus: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10526
- test your lenses for sharpness wide open: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51644

I did some of these tests when I got my 20D and Tamron 28-75/2.8. :o

I was a bit disappointed at first in that the lens is *a little* less sharp wide open than it is when stopped down, if you look at the 100% crops of newsprint test shots. However, when I looked at the first real portraits (example (http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=3052478&size=lg)) I had taken, I saw that the results are actually stunning if you print them or look on them on the screen at normal size.

Also, when I looked at samples from other users that really had received 'bad copies' of that lens ... those problems were clearly visible on the pictures immediately and rightfully warranted an immediate return or at least a re-calibration.

Best regards,
Andy

[Raj]

- test your camera and lenses for front- or backfocus: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10526
- test your lenses for sharpness wide open: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51644

Andy
Thanks Andy, agree with you that sometimes ignorance is a blessing, but considering the amount of $$$ we spend on theser toys, some basic tests wont hurt :-)

Thanks for the tests mentioned above, they are on my weekend task list :-)

Cheers

[HKFEVER]

Also test for dust and sensor problem.

[Raj]

Also test for dust and sensor problem.
HKfever, can you please provide some specific details on testing procedure you follow/recommend .. ?
Will be very helpful for newbie's (including myself :-)

Thanks

[KenE]

So you can decide whether you want to
- test your camera and lenses for front- or backfocus: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10526
- test your lenses for sharpness wide open: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51644

Andy

I sorely needed those links! Just finished proving that I'm not insane and my 17-40L has a softness and slight backfocus problem. I could get nothing in sharp focus while the 70-200L was instantly sharp. The final straw was taking it to a reputable shop nearby and having the owner shoot it against his 24-70. Difference was obvious. Now I can test them further.

Cheers

[cheme]

When I bought my 20D from Best Buy, I got it home and realized that the file numbering started at 9432. I thought it was kinda strange, so I called canon to confirm that the camera file numbering should begin at 1 (which is the way it was on my previous canon cameras, a20, s30, g5). I took it back to Best Buy and they gave me hard time but i finally was able to exchange it for another one. I took a picture and the file number started with 1. The lens in the first box was not in a plastic bag, but it was in the second box. So i guess someone bought it, took a lot of exposures and then returned it when they were done.


Maybe it was an unusual incident, but i guess you have to pay attention to even the smallest details.

[robertwgross]

... So i guess someone bought it, took a lot of exposures and then returned it when they were done.

Probably not.

Somebody at the store had a CF card that had been used in some camera, so it had a count on it. Then that got stuck into the new camera, just for a valid quick check on the new camera. The new camera picked up the count off the used CF card, and then it will keep counting up from there. If you put a clean CF card in, then you can make sure the camera has lost its count by removing the backup memory battery for a while. If the camera can't get a count off the CF card, and if it can't get a count out of its own memory, then it resets.

So, you may well have hassled the store when it was not due.

---Bob Gross---

[Rendezvous]

Well unless the store can provide an explanation of why the camera had apparently been used, I think I'd be politely demanding another one too. They're not cheap (ok, they're getting cheaper, but still...) :)

[Faithless]

I bought my 20d as a demo model from futureshop (canada vancouver, richmond landsdown).

What I discovered right away was there was no battery charger.

Went there got it back (they had to take one from the 30d box)

THEN a year down the road the camera had someone elses name in it!

so I figure someone bought it returned it put it ion the shelf.

whatever i only paid 1000 with the kit lens.

[Pete]

Even before you leave the shop, double check that you've have a receipt that describes what you've bought, where and the date. Also check that you have a warranty card for each body and lens that you buy.

A pretty simple thing, but easy to overlook in your eagerness to get away from the salesman and go home and play.

If you don't have the correct receipt and warranty card, you lose any warranty claims you might have to make.

[canoflan]

I suggest you buy an additional battery and then go out for an all day shoot and remove the power off timer to see how long your battery will last. It should last at least the recommend timing from the specifications.

All the clean sensors and sharp lenses in the world won't help when your battery peters out in a shorter than expected time.

I personally have never run a battery down all the way because they last a long time and I have shot most of the day before, like most of you have, of course.;)

Additionally, fill up your CF card and then dowload and reformat it and ensure it holds approx. the same number of pics. I have read where the number of pics the cards hold sometimes dwindles and they should be approx. the same (depending on ISO setting, etc...).

[jasond22]

Check for dead/hot/stuck sensor pixels:

Take a pic with lens cap on, low ISO, high f/stop, long shutter speed (say ISO 100, f/22, 1 sec.), manual focus to infinity. Since you've set for low ISO, you want long shutter speed to give any hot pixels time to respond and show themselves.

Take another with lens cap on, high ISO, high f/stop, short shutter speed (say ISO 1600, f/22, 1/4000th), manual focus to infinity. Since you're at high ISO, you want short shutter speed or "noise" is going to make this test impossible. I guess if you're really die-hard you could try some longer shutter speeds and try to figure-out if any anomalies you see are noise or bad pixels.

Take a pic of something light or white, low ISO, low f/stop, long shutter speed (say ISO 100, f/4, 1/4). Anything that is enough to give you a light image. Manual focus to infinity.

Now examine these 3 images. The most detailed way is to shoot as RAW, convert to lossless format like TIFF, then examine on your computer. Probably good enough...if your cam's LCD zooms in pretty far on the image, then zoom in and examine on your camera.