Classic 1D flash sync question....

[fatphotographer]

Hi everyone,

I have a question about the flash sync of the original Classic 1D.

I have seen that the flash sync is quoted as 1/500th of a second, but I would like to know if anyone has experience of using the 1D in the studio with external studio flash, and what the usable sync speed actually is.

I am looking to do some studio work, but need a lot more than the 250th quoted for my MK111. It has been pointed out that the sync speed for my MK111 might actually be 60th for some studio flash. I need a lot more than that, and the 1D might be the answer.

If anyone could give me some advice, it would be appreciated,

Cheers

Gary

[jra]

I can't answer your question but may I ask why you need such a fast shutter speed for studio work? If you're trying to freeze fast movement with a fast shutter speed, maybe a hot light would work better if the flash burst can't do it. If you explain what you're trying to achieve, we may be able to help you come up with some different ideas that may work better. :)

[fatphotographer]

I want to freeze a kid jumping.

I have tried 250th and 320th, but there is still a bit of movement that I want to eliminate. I realise that the flash burst is thousandths of a second, but from experience with the old D1 series Nikon at 500th sec, I can remember better results. I was just wondering if the older series Canon were the same.
Gary

[cdifoto]

You freeze movement with the flash itself. If you still see movement, it's because you still have ambient coming into the exposure. You need to eliminate that.

[fatphotographer]

Ambient light is 5 secs for the aperture and ISO speed that I am using, but I am still getting movement.

When I set the MK111 to 400th sec, and have the bottom of the frame missing due to the curtain getting in the way, the pic is much sharper than the 250th sync speed or the 60th that was recomended by other members after reading the manual.

[bsaber]

The flash should be freezing the action and shutter speed shouldn't be a big factor. How much ambient is being registered?

[gromeo]

What flash units are you using? Are they the speed lights or are they strobes, flash duration also has a great deal to do with freezing action. The faster the duration the more stopping you will get

[fatphotographer]

Elinchrom 1x 750 and 2x 500 units, ambient light 5 secs for the iso and aperture

[In2Photos]

You are just having a hell of a time with your MKIII aren't you? ;)

I must say that I am quite befuddled. Flash duration should freeze just about everything. What focal length are you using? Tripod? What does it look like with a single light vs. multiple lights? Maybe the lights are not syncing properly.

Also, the sync speed of the camera is specified only as it pertains to Speedlites, not strobes. Sync speed for strobes can vary, depending on the strobe itself and the method of connectivity. Some wireless devices will lower the sync speed. So how are you triggering the strobes.

PS I am going to move this to the lighting forum as I think you will get more help there.

[slivr]

Hmm ... I'm a bit confused on your setup as well I guess. I use a Canon 1D-MIII like you and have done a number of "jump" shots in a studio environment with 3 and 4 lights, always using 1/125th second at F9 to F11 depending on distance. yes, I've had some shots with blur - but often get nice crisp images as long as they aren't jumping towards me. I might suggest you consider using one of those small exercise trampolines and have your subject jump in place. By catching them near the apex of their leap, the movement slows and your camera won't have any problem capturing a sharp still. I've never used more than 1/250th when using my studio lights.

Here's two "behind the scene" samples, unfinished or cropped to show my basic setup. 1 main light - camera right. 1 fill light - camera left(but near axis). 1 edge light above/behind subject towards left. All placed pretty high to accomodate the leaps from our mini-tramp.

312784

312785

[slivr]

These are with Genesis 400's and they'd be considered a "slow" studio flash, certainly slower than yours. I shot these in Manual mode, 125th speed with manually set aperature based on my liight meter reading (Sekonic L-358). Your stated 5 second ambient light measurement should certainly be dark enough to not interfere with a flash image. Practically oo dark to even see in without the modeling lamps on.

Is the kid small and jumping quick, or can you control the leap and direction? If they're coming at you the focus will be totally FUBARed and you'll have movement, but if they leap in place or towards the side (while keeping the same distance from your focal plane) you may get better results.

[René Damkot]

1Dino will sync at any speed with a non-dedicated flash.
The flash will be the limiting factor.

That being said, the freezing of the action will be done by the flash duration in a studio environment, so nothing higher then 1/125 is needed (unless there is a ton of ambient).

Some flashes have a shorter flash duration when dialed down (for instance Alien Bees), some get a longer flash duration (For instance all speedlights and some other strobes).

I've shot people jumping with Broncolor strobes, and they were only just fast enough: Motion blur in hands and so, but not in the face...

[fatphotographer]

Thanks everyone,

I am shooting a kid jumping onto a crash mat, and it is the fall that I want to record. I am using 100mm on a 1.3 crop body, manually focused, aperture about f8, hand held to follow the subject. Triggered wirelessly to the 750, the 2x 500 are in slave mode on the back of the unit.

I will dim the modeling lights, switch some more studio lights off, boost the power of the flash, trigger with a cable and report back.

Back to the original question though, anyone shoot at 500th in a studio with the 1D classic?

Cheers

Gary

[gsgary]

Where abouts in Lincolnshire are you, i have a 1Dmk1 you could try

[fatphotographer]

Top man, thanks for the offer. I am in Lincoln itself, but my brother lives in Mansfield if that is any help, I will PM you my details in a minute,

Cheers

Gary

[Gatorboy]

Take a picture without triggering the strobes. If you don't see black, you've got ambient contaminating your image. Once you get a black image, the strobes will freeze the action. Shutter speed is not an issue.

[bobbyz]

Post an example shot. I also don't think you need to bump your ss. I would try iw my putting the camera on a tripod just to make sure it is not something else that you doign when you say "following the subject with the camera".

[eduardofrances]

Hi everyone,

I have a question about the flash sync of the original Classic 1D.

I have seen that the flash sync is quoted as 1/500th of a second, but I would like to know if anyone has experience of using the 1D in the studio with external studio flash, and what the usable sync speed actually is.

I am looking to do some studio work, but need a lot more than the 250th quoted for my MK111. It has been pointed out that the sync speed for my MK111 might actually be 60th for some studio flash. I need a lot more than that, and the 1D might be the answer.

If anyone could give me some advice, it would be appreciated,

Cheers

Gary
What are you using to trigger your lighting from your MKIII? there are radio triggers that can't catch up with he max sync speed of the cameras, Pocket Wizards, Cybersyncs and Quantum radio slaves are the ones I know that really catch up with the max sync speed of almost any camera, if you are using something like Cactus triggers could be the culprit.

[Rudi]

Back to the original question though, anyone shoot at 500th in a studio with the 1D classic?


I think you're missing the point here, Gary. Even 1/500 is not enough to freeze action! So the ability to sync at that speed is rather academic, wouldn't you say?