OHL Action Plymouth vs. Windsor

[jfphts]

Just recently got my new XSI and having lots of fun using it, although I have lots to learn, please share any comments you have.

Thanks !

[RobNYC]

There is a bit of motion blur so you are going to want to go with a faster shutter speed to freeze the action. I don't know how the lighting is in that rink, but seems you may want to brighten it up a bit as well.

[Brikwall]

Please post your EXIF data. It's easier to offer constructive criticism when we know what settings were used.

The images are slightly underexposed, and the motion-blur looks like a fairly slow shutter speed was used. However, because we don't know lens, aperture, ISO, etc, it's hard to tell if you can improve with a few small changes, or if you made the most out of what was available (ie: could you have bumped ISO or were you already maxed out; could you have opened up slightly or were you using a slow - f/4 or f/5.6 - lens).

Action-wise, the second shot is probably the better of the two. The only thing missing is the puck (although when I see my own son - a goalie - look back like that I assume, usually correctly, that the puck's in the net behind him). A tighter crop would also help. The first shot really doesn't say much.

For hockey, especially in most local rinks, you'll need settings of about 1/400 - 1/500 sec, f/2.8 and ISO 1600 or 3200. Typically, shutter speeds of 1/400 or slower will not stop the action and you will see motion blur, particularly around the hands and feet. A fast lens (f/2.8 or faster) and high ISOs (1600 or 3200) are needed because of the poor lighting. If you do happen to have good lighting, it's often best to increase shutter speed (to 1/500 or faster) and stop down your lens slightly (to f/3.5 or f/4) before you start dropping ISO below 1600. The faster shutter speed stops the action and prevents motion blur, while the slightly smaller aperture improves sharpness and increases DOF.

Other tips include: a custom white balance off the ice; shoot in manual mode so that cycling lights, dark and light coloured jerseys, etc, don't throw off the meter and cause unwanted shifts in aperture and/or shutter speed; check your histogram and try to "push to the right" so that you get white highlights and some detail in the blacks/shadows; and be sure to check out the many hockey threads in this forum where the real pros and experts (rather than hacks like me) offer tons of good advice. Oh...and keep on shooting!

[Peter Camyre]

When you guys use a IS lens for sports, at high shutter speeds, let's say above 1/500 or even higher, do you have IS on or off? I'd appreciate your replies on that. Thanks, PETE!

[JulieNick]

agree, gotta have the puck in the shots. Like Brikwall said about the goalie looking back that the puck is in the net. My daughter is a goalie. I know that when she looks back that the puck is in the net.
I have used my xti with the 75-300 lens that came with it. I have also tried to get good hockey shots but it is very hard to with a slow lens, low rink lighting and those darn players just won't stay still long enough :) Also usually can't use flash in the rink. I got blurred images, lots of them in fact. A faster lens is the way to go when shooting hockey.

[Brikwall]

@Julie - I should clarify somewhat about the puck... I'm not a firm believer in having the puck in every shot as it's not always necessary depending on the type of shot or the type of action being recorded. For example, a goalie shoving an opposing player out of his crease or a stock shot of a player (which is, for the most part, a portrait rather than an action shot). Even a shot of a player racing balls-to-the-wall after the puck or an opposing player doesn't necessarily need the puck to convey the intensity or emotion. In those cases, I personally feel that decrying the lack of the puck is like demanding that every shot must conform to the rule of thirds. Sometimes, you can break the rules. However, with the second shot above, you can't be sure if the puck is in the net behind the goalie, or if the goalie is following a rebound that went off to the corner. Having the puck in the frame would tell you what was happening and, therefore, "complete" the shot. Just my two cents...

[RobNYC]

Following Brik's advice once in the past, I tried a custom WB for Madison Square Garden and the Rangers. It didn't work for me (user error I'm sure), but after one shoot there and adjustments in PP, I know that a kelvin of 2900-3000 works at MSG and just set it accordingly now.

Manual is definitely the way to go... I stick to around 500 or 640 and about 2.8.
I do also leave IS on with my 70-200. Usually, ISO around 1600, but I did use 2000 at the last game.

[cstewart]

When you guys use a IS lens for sports, at high shutter speeds, let's say above 1/500 or even higher, do you have IS on or off? I'd appreciate your replies on that. Thanks, PETE!

Pete:

IS offers no real benefits when shooting high shutter speed sports. I have mine off. IS works best in low light situations, usually with low shutter speeds where, when hand holding, you need a bit more stabilization to get the shot that you might otherwise need a tripod and longer exposure for.

Chris

[Peter Camyre]

Thank you, I appreciate the reply. PETE!

[jfphts]

Thanks for the comments, It was really hard to shoot these since my first lens I bought was a Canon 75-300mm Telephoto EF Zoom Lens f/4.0-f/32 which is a non IS lens, I tried to make the best of shots and obviously still experimenting with Photoshop, and hopefully can go back and increase the contrast on the shots which will brighten them up.

Thanks !