Telephoto shots and the camera to use

[flam79]

Hi, I'm a photo N00B and I have several questions..

1)What's the best way to get shots like this one:
http://i.a.cnn.net/si/2005/writers/don_banks/02/23/moss/tx_moss.jpg
Where the subject is in focus but the background is blurred without having to be really close to the subject but being able to capture the entire subject. I think I am somewhat familiar with the aperture and depth settings.

2)I'm looking into purchasing the Canon 20D is that a good choice or should I save a G and go with the Rebel? I'm looking for a LONG TERM investment camera. My plan is to go out and take pictures of wildlife using the telephoto method I questioned about in "1)"
What lense would be good for that, keeping in mind that I do not have a money tree. :)

3)How do you calculate how much zoom an SLR lense gives you? Is it approx 17mm -18 mm per zoom x? How do you know which lense is for macro and which is not (So i don't get the wrong one)

Ok, I am sure after you all have read this, you really know how much of a beginner, amateur I am. hopefully I did not tick anyone off by asking these stupid questions. I currently use a Canon S40 but it does not do me justice.

[Turbowolf]

Get the 20D and the 100-400 IS USM lens if you want to have a decent chance at shooting wildlife. I've had excellent results (see my webpage, address in signature).

The focus/blur is a depth of field issue. Won't go into it here, but it's very effective at allowing a chain link fence to disappear from the shot.

[kb244]

#1 not only use a telephoto lens on a tripod, but rather be on the sidelines as well. Action requires a fast shutterspeed, though you dont want the depth of field to be too shallow either. Theres a bunch of answers I'm sure others can give with this.

#2 well if yer all about telephoto this may work out for you, since 20D and other cameras in it's class have a 1.6x crop factor ( due to the sensor size, it doesnt fill up the whole 35mm area the lens are meant for ), so something like a 200mm lens turns into a 320, a 400 into a 640 and so on, or least that of the equivilant frame of reference.

#3 First thing to do is to get off the "times zoom", stick with the mm distance and you should be fine, best way to look at it is, what field of area do you want, if a subject ahead only takes up 2% of your 180 degree semiciricle yer looking at maybe 600 to 1200 mm lens as an example. But for comparism sakes, 3x zoom is approximatly 105mm depending on which manufacture you ask. But like I said dont get hung up on that its a figurative 'standard' so to speak that the market invented for people who dont have the patience to understand what they need in distance, and want to compare one camera versus the next.

[robertwgross]

If you have a standard full-frame camera, then a 50mm lens is considered standard, and it gives you a perspective sort of like normal eyesight. Let's call that 1 power.

You've probably used binoculars, and they have power markings like 8x or 10x (8 or 10 power). By that thinking, if you need equivalent power in a camera, then you are looking for 400mm or 500mm. Hint: that is a pretty serious lens with serious cost.

Many dSLR cameras have a 1.6 factor in the body, so, some people feel that gives a 1.6x extra magnification to whatever the lens is doing for you. However, it really isn't magnification, it is a crop factor. At this stage, we do not want to get off into crop factor anymore. It is a religious issue.

Next time you see some pro football game, look at the big Canon lenses on the sidelines. Probably the shortest one in the bunch will be a 400 or 500, and there may be a 600 also.

---Bob Gross---

[flam79]

Thank you so much for all your opinions and time to repsond.
I'm on my way!!!!