coming to grips with terminology and items required

[troypiggo]

I've been reading on and off. Don't really have the money right now, but trying to research.

I understand I'm better off buying a decent mount, and for longer exposures will need a motor drive. Seen recent postings here talking about Skywatcher EQ5 mount, which seems to be a better than entry level one like the EQ1? I see that mount at http://www.yorkoptical.com.au/ProductMenus/TeleAccessories/tabid/49/CategoryID/378/List/1/catpageindex/2/Level/a/ProductID/162/Default.aspx?SortField=UnitCost%2cProductName for AU$499.

There seem to be a couple of options for drives. Single axis versus dual axis, the latter being more expensive so I'm guessing better and recommended? EQ5 dual axis drive here http://www.yorkoptical.com.au/ProductMenus/TeleAccessories/tabid/49/CategoryID/50/List/1/catpageindex/2/Level/a/ProductID/138/Default.aspx?SortField=UnitCost%2cProductName AU$327.25

Now comes the confusion. Putting those 2 things together and getting my camera on it. Are there any other adapters or attachments needed? Does the drive sit on the mount and camera on the drive? Or does the drive connect into the mount but camera still sits on mount? Does the mount have a 1/4" screw on top like tripod connectors use?

Do you think the above is in the right ballpark? I'm planning on using my 30D with 10-22 and 100-400 lenses.

I've also seen here about 80 ED scope like this one http://www.yorkoptical.com.au/Home/tabid/36/catpageindex/2/ProductID/169/Default.aspx?txtSearch=80+ed for AU$795

Is that necessary or can it wait? What's needed to connect camera to it? Is that what T plates/adapters are for?

Should I look at dew heating thingys before the scope?

[FarmerDave8N]

Does the mount have a 1/4" screw on top like tripod connectors use?


The drives are integrated into the mount, your camera would be attached to the top of the mount. Most mounts (including the EQ5) have dovetail plates that accept a metal bar (the dovetail bar) with a trapezoid-shaped cross section that is attached to the mount either with a clamp or set screw(s). There are two different "standard" sizes of dovetail bars, you want the "Vixen" style.

When I'm imaging with just my camera, I use a dovetail bar, and a 1/4x20 bolt through it - either directly to my lens ring or to a Bogen three-axis head. You may or may not have to drill the hole in the dovetail yourself, it's not super-critical machining.


Do you think the above is in the right ballpark? I'm planning on using my 30D with 10-22 and 100-400 lenses.


I have no experience with that particular mount, but the EQ5 and EQ6 are regarded as quite capable.


I've also seen here about 80 ED scope ...
Is that necessary or can it wait? What's needed to connect camera to it? Is that what T plates/adapters are for?


It can wait - get your feet wet with just your lenses. You'll be surprised what you can image. But yes, if you do get a scope, you'll need a T-ring and T-adapter. T-adapter goes into the focuser on the scope and is fairly generic. The T-ring screws onto the T-adapter, and fits into the bayonet on your camera body like a lens - in other words, the T-ring is specific to the lens mount for your camera (e.g., EOS), so make sure you buy the right one.


Should I look at dew heating thingys before the scope?

I don't know what dew is like in your part of the world, but I have the Orion version of that scope - it's got a pretty substantial dew shield - I've used it on pretty moist nights with no dew heater for a long time before it fogged over, so I'd say it could wait.

There's a most excellent Australian astro forum on which you might get better locale-specific advice:

http://www.iceinspace.com.au

HTH,
David

[Adrena1in]

I have the EQ-5 mount, and I'm pretty pleased with it. Not that quiet when using the Hand-Controller to move it around at top speed, but it's sturdy and pretty accurate.

Mine didn't come with an attachment for putting my camera straight on top, so I just bought a 1/4 bolt from a local hardware store and rigged it up myself using a few blocks of wood...a total cost of about 20p.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/439/cameramountzh7.jpg

As for the drives, if you can afford both then I'd say get both. With a perfectly polar-aligned mount, and a perfectly accurate mount, once you start taking long-exposure images you'll only have the mount tracking in one direction...Right Ascension. This is the drive you'll have if you only get one. But for viewing, and aligning on targets, and if you ever do Auto-Guiding, you'll need the other drive as well...the DEClination drive.

I don't know if you can get Hand Controllers and not GOTO...I have GOTO, and it's good, but I admit I don't use it. It can help with Polar Alignment, but there are other ways to do that. It can find objects for you that you can't actually see, but the mount and scope need to be pefectly aligned beforehand.

It's complex stuff, but you've come to the right place to learn.

I would definitely recommend a good mount to start with...the scope can come later, because your lenses will allow you to get some pretty good shots as it is. I'd also recommend a power-adapter for your camera...I use mine all the time when I'm outside now.

[troypiggo]

Ok, I think I'm getting there. Thanks for the feedback.

FarmerDave - thanks for the forum link. Are you an Aussie? Got any good stores for cheap gear? I found York Optical but there might be better ones?

[FarmerDave8N]

No, not an Aussie - I've run into the founder of IIS on other astro boards, some of my software has been mentioned there, and I've seen lots of good astrophotos there. :)

David

[troypiggo]

Aah, I see. Thanks again. What software? :)

[FarmerDave8N]

NP - I wrote a generator for a focusing mask which was discussed on IIS. I've also written a 40D shutter counter utility that's been mentioned here a time or two. :)

http://astrojargon.net

[troypiggo]

Followup question. Been doing some more reading. This is gonna be an expensive hobby :)

My intention is to start with a mount and motor drive as a minimum. Sit the camera on that and take some photos using the 10-22 and 100-400 lenses I have.

When I save a bit more, I was intending to buy a scope to mount the camera on. Reading more on that, I understand the 80ED that's being talked about is decent enough and easy to use because it's fairly wide. So it's good for nebulae, clusters etc which are larger. That's fine.

So my plan was an EQ5 and dual drive (maybe GOTO) now would suffice, then the 80ED.

But now I think I'm reading that to shoot planets etc, might need something like a 10" Newtonian or something. Now this is something that I may want to do in the future. Am I painting myself into a corner by going down the path of a EQ5? Will it take that? I'm reading that an EQ6 might be better and wondering if I should be getting that now. But that's just going to stretch the budget even more! :(

Oh, and how transportable are the EQ5 and EQ6? Can you just throw them in the back of the car to go for a drive to dark skies?

[Adrena1in]

Of course, if you can afford the EQ6 then that's even better, but I have no experience of it myself.

The EQ5 isn't too heavy really. Not sure how heavy the mount and tripod is, (you'll want a really sturdy tripod by the way), but I carry mine easily from the garage, through the house and into the garden. I don't fold it up at all, because I've marked my patio where the legs should go so that it's aligned straight away each time I use it. But folded up, and with the mount removed from the tripod, (a quick process), it'll pack up easily into the car. The counter-weights themselves are almost as heavy at the mount, so I remove them before I carry it, (unless I'm in a hurry!)

You probably will want a bit more magnification if you want to view and shoot the planets. I have a 1200mm 5" refractor, which isn't bad for Jupiter and Saturn, but a bit more power would be nice. Newtonians, in my experience, are quite light, but not the easiest to image through, so you might want to consider a Schmidt-Cassegrain or Matsukov, or such like. Compact, but with very long focal lengths, meaning they're great for solar work. Never used one, but I might get one one day.

[FarmerDave8N]

Followup question. Been doing some more reading. This is gonna be an expensive hobby :)

It can be.


Am I painting myself into a corner by going down the path of a EQ5? Will it take that?


I don't think the EQ5 will take a 10" Newt - not for AP, at any rate. I have an Atlas EQ-G (the Orion version of the EQ6) with goto, and it's a fantastic mount. I know of some imagers who use the EQ-G with 6, 8 and 10 inch Schmidt Newtonians. For planetary imaging, you might want to consider an SCT or a Mak, as Adrena1in suggested.

There are tradeoffs, however, with any telescope design. For example, an SCT is much more compact than a Newt, which makes balancing the scope on the mount easier - and it's less likely to catch wind, ruining a shot. However, SCTs are longer f/l than, say, refractors like the 80ED.

Focal length is the key to AP, in a way. The longer the f/l, the more precise your mount and guiding needs to be in order to avoid trailing or oblong-shaped stars. In other words, the longer the f/l the better your polar alignment, autoguiding and periodic error of the mount need to be. That's why I recommend starting with your lenses.


Oh, and how transportable are the EQ5 and EQ6? Can you just throw them in the back of the car to go for a drive to dark skies?

Yes, but with the EQ6, you're probably going to want to take the mount head off the tripod, as it's fairly beefy.

[troypiggo]

I don't think the EQ5 will take a 10" Newt - not for AP, at any rate. I have an Atlas EQ-G (the Orion version of the EQ6) with goto, and it's a fantastic mount. I know of some imagers who use the EQ-G with 6, 8 and 10 inch Schmidt Newtonians. For planetary imaging, you might want to consider an SCT or a Mak, as Adrena1in suggested.

There are tradeoffs, however, with any telescope design. For example, an SCT is much more compact than a Newt, which makes balancing the scope on the mount easier - and it's less likely to catch wind, ruining a shot. However, SCTs are longer f/l than, say, refractors like the 80ED.

Focal length is the key to AP, in a way. The longer the f/l, the more precise your mount and guiding needs to be in order to avoid trailing or oblong-shaped stars. In other words, the longer the f/l the better your polar alignment, autoguiding and periodic error of the mount need to be. That's why I recommend starting with your lenses.


Thanks for that, Dave.

Been thinking more (and more) about this. So if the EQ5 should handle the ED80 ok, and if it's probably not going to be desirable to put a big 10" newt on my mount, but rather something smaller, will the EQ5 do ok for a SCT for planetary stuff?

[FarmerDave8N]

will the EQ5 do ok for a SCT for planetary stuff?

I would think so (again, I have no experience with that mount), as long as you're not talking about a 11 or 14" monster. The thing about planetary is that most of the time you're stacking multiple images - and the stacking software will correct for movement of the target - so super-precise tracking isn't as important.

HTH,
David