Another try a strobed basketball - Please C&C

[TopGear1Ds]

Over the weekend I got my first taste of using off camera speedlights to shoot basketball, and got OK results, but nothing great. (see here (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=600468))

I tried again today with a few changes in lighting, and my new 1D classic with its epic sync speeds.(The original 1D syncs at 1/500s)

I'm still not crazy about the results, but I think they're an improvement. Specific questions, and problems after the photos..

(EDIT) I've got no clue what happened to my exif data. This was all shot at f/2.8 1/320-500s and ISO200. (/EDIT)

For starters, I moved my lights from here...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3003/3032441461_8c870dfaeb.jpg

...to here:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3190/3041876633_3165e8cdc2.jpg?v=0

First, some of the photos that I'm pretty happy with, and then the ones I'd like to improve on:

#1
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3042723670_67f0c35474_b.jpg

#2
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3023/3042721758_1b7381a797_b.jpg

#3
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3019/3047741830_82b50e7e4c_b.jpg


I got a lot of harsh shadows when people weren't lined up just right with the flashes though:

#4
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/3041884307_0c1a55dfbb_b.jpg

#5
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3062/3041875435_46a8058b34_b.jpg

and a lot more like that.. I really feel like I'd need at least one more light to fix the shadow problem. Am I right about that?

Any other C&C? I'd really appreciate some critique. Thanks.

[FlyingPhotog]

To really fix the shadows ... get your lights much higher (like in the rafters higher)

Are you using strobes at only one end of the court? Having them at both ends would give you some backlight that might yield a little more pop.

Looks like you've got enough stopping power however.

[TopGear1Ds]

To really fix the shadows ... get your lights much higher (like in the rafters higher)

Not really an option for now, but that sure would be nice. I am thinking about getting much taller light stands though.


Are you using strobes at only one end of the court? Having them at both ends would give you some backlight that might yield a little more pop.

Yeah, I'm only using the two you see in the setup photo. I'm hoping to get more syport receivers after christmas, and then I'll be able to use 4 flashes.

Looks like you've got enough stopping power however.
yup! gotta love that high sync speed. It really made the difference from last time.

[FlyingPhotog]

Not really an option for now, but that sure would be nice. I am thinking about getting much taller light stands though.



Yeah, I'm only using the two you see in the setup photo. I'm hoping to get more syport receivers after christmas, and then I'll be able to use 4 flashes.


yup! gotta love that high sync speed. It really made the difference from last time.

Are you able to shoot an entire game on just AAs or do you use external power of some kind?

[canonnoob]

like you said... you just need to fix the shadows.. you had some great emotion in those photos...

[TopGear1Ds]

Are you able to shoot an entire game on just AAs or do you use external power of some kind?

I've got 2400 miliamp/hour (I think those are the right units) rechargeable AA's that last the whole game in my 550EX (at 1/8 power), and I change them out on the 430EX at halftime just to keep the recycle times up (430 is at 1/2 power)

I think battery life will be more of a problem as I get a better feel for my recycle times and start taking more shots. So far so good though.

like you said... you just need to fix the shadows.. you had some great emotion in those photos...
thanks!

[40Dude6aedyk]

Any chance of bouncing off the ceiling? Maybe off the ceiling with the fill card extended?

I'd probably crop a little differently if possible. #2 is missing top fingertips of defense. #5 might look better from waists up. #4 is cropped as I would do it.

[clarence]

Not really an option for now, but that sure would be nice. I am thinking about getting much taller light stands though.

gotta love that high sync speed. It really made the difference from last time.

550EX (at 1/8 power), and I change them out on the 430EX at halftime just to keep the recycle times up (430 is at 1/2 power)

I think battery life will be more of a problem as I get a better feel for my recycle times

Hi Matt-

I've never strobed sports before, but I have a 40D with couple 550EX's and a 420EX and I've been tempted to play with the radio triggers for stuff light this.

Q1) Would it help decrease the harsh shadows if you turned the stands toward the white walls and bounced?

Q2) You're running the 550EX at 1/8 and the 430EX at 1/2... is this to balance their power and improve recycle times? Why not run the 430EX at 100% and the 550EX at 1/4? (I'm assuming you don't want to have to wait the extra several seconds between shots).

Q3) If I tried this with my 40D, I'd be limited to 1/250", right? The advantage of your 1D over your 30D is 1/500" flash sync vs 1/250?

Q4) It's amazing to see ISO200 with indoor sports... I'm guessing that if max flash sync limits shutter speed, then there's no advantage to go to ISO400 or higher.

Thanks,
Clarence

[namasste]

Q3) If I tried this with my 40D, I'd be limited to 1/250", right? The advantage of your 1D over your 30D is 1/500" flash sync vs 1/250?

I think he was referring to using HSS to pulse the strobe. The 1D only gets you 1/250 sync speed. I won't get into it but it's been hammered out over and over and over why HSS is not the best method for strobing sports. If it works for him, then have at it but for every one guy who says its good, you'll find 10,000 who disagree. There are countless threads here on this issue so rather than rehash, just search it if you are interested in why.

[clarence]

The 1D only gets you 1/250 sync speed.

There are countless threads here on this issue so rather than rehash, just search it if you are interested in why.

I guess I misunderstood the 1D specs:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos1d/page2.asp
Canon EOS-1D Specifications
Flash X-Sync 1/500 sec

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index2.html
This maximum flash-compatible shutter speed is called “X-sync speed.” X-sync and flash sync are the same thing on modern cameras, since they all use electronic flash.

The digital 1D camera has a startling 1/500 sec X-sync and a 1/16 000 sec top shutter speed. This is because both X-sync and shutter speed are normally handled electronically by the CCD and not by a mechanical shutter. The 1D does have a mechanical shutter but it’s used for bulb mode. Note, however, that the CMOS-based 1Ds and 1D mark II have a top X-sync speed of 1/250 - the higher X-sync speed of the 1D derives from its use of a CCD image sensor.

I was unaware that this flash topic was so controversial. And you're right, this Photo Sharing thread is not the best place for my questions and I should've Searched some more. My apologies.

[TopGear1Ds]

I think he was referring to using HSS to pulse the strobe. The 1D only gets you 1/250 sync speed...

No, the 1D classic legitimately syncs at 1/500. I was not using HSS. Flashes were remote triggered on full manual. Clarence's post below is correct.

I guess I misunderstood the 1D specs:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos1d/page2.asp


http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index2.html


I was unaware that this flash topic was so controversial. And you're right, this Photo Sharing thread is not the best place for my questions and I should've Searched some more. My apologies.

Don't worry clarence, this was a fine thread to ask those question's in (though this (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=586470) one would've been a little better), and I'm happy to answer them as best I can. I was just in the middle of responding to your earlier post...





Any chance of bouncing off the ceiling? Maybe off the ceiling with the fill card extended?
I don' think I've got chance at all with my 430. Maybe if I had a second 550/580 and I shot at at full power.. The ceiling is kind of high, and it's grey.

I'd probably crop a little differently if possible. #2 is missing top fingertips of defense. #5 might look better from waists up. #4 is cropped as I would do it.Thanks for the input. #2 is straight out of the camera, but I do wish I'd had her totally in the frame. I definitely agree about #5, thats a good idea.






Hi Matt-

I've never strobed sports before, but I have a 40D with couple 550EX's and a 420EX and I've been tempted to play with the radio triggers for stuff light this.

Q1) Would it help decrease the harsh shadows if you turned the stands toward the white walls and bounced?

Yeah, I think it would. The new problem would be would I still have enough power? I'm curious to try this idea though. I'll give it a shot during warmups at the next game and see how it goes.


Q2) You're running the 550EX at 1/8 and the 430EX at 1/2... is this to balance their power and improve recycle times?Yup, exactly. From side by side tests with both flashes I found that the 550 is almost exactly two stops more powerful than the 430.

Why not run the 430EX at 100% and the 550EX at 1/4? (I'm assuming you don't want to have to wait the extra several seconds between shots).Aside from wanting to avoid long recycle times, and short battery lives, I just don't need the extra power. I can knock the ambient out at that power, and I'm already at ISO200 f/2.8 which is as low as the 1D goes without getting into the extended range ISO100.

Q3) If I tried this with my 40D, I'd be limited to 1/250", right? The advantage of your 1D over your 30D is 1/500" flash sync vs 1/250?Yes, you would. It wouldn't be a big deal though, because with your 550's you could just shoot at 1/4 power instead of my 1/8 and you'd make up for the slower sync speed by doubling the flash power.

Q4) It's amazing to see ISO200 with indoor sports... Yeah, I smile every time I look down and see ISO200! I'd be shooting ISO3200 f/2.8 1/500s without the strobes.

I'm guessing that if max flash sync limits shutter speed, then there's no advantage to go to ISO400 or higher.

Thanks,
ClarenceWell if you want to shoot at a smaller aperture, you could bump your ISO to compensate, but I can't think of a reason other than that. Hope all that helped.

[TopGear1Ds]

Any other discussion on the photos? Any ideas where I could move my lights for better results? No games for a little while so I've got some time to experiment.

[gromeo]

I think your first location was the best spot and as mentioned in an earlier post getting the lights higher would help. Can you get your lights up in this area (red circles) from the picture it would put your lights higher and just back from the basket.

[TopGear1Ds]

Can you get your lights up in this area (red circles) from the picture it would put your lights higher and just back from the basket.

I've been eyeing that spot ever since I got the idea to use strobes, but there's no access to get up there that I know of. I'm going to be talking with the athletics department to see if they can help me out though.

[namasste]

I've been eyeing that spot ever since I got the idea to use strobes, but there's no access to get up there that I know of. I'm going to be talking with the athletics department to see if they can help me out though.Matt, I apologize, I thought you meant a MkII and I didn't realize the classic could hit 1/500. Actually good to know as I am thinking about one as a second body.

Lighting wise, I wondered if that was some kind of molding strip just below the banners where you mounted the lights. A small ladder should get you there and that would be plenty high. Honestly, higher is better but I think the height is decent as is.

The images are solid action wise and decent lighting wise, they just seem a touch dark to me. I think I'd just bump the ISO slightly and the flash power a bit and maybe zoom back the flash (wider) if it seems too much.

[Palladium]

get 13 ft light stands, I use the Impact air cushioned 13ft about $70 each.

[TopGear1Ds]

Matt, I apologize, I thought you meant a MkII and I didn't realize the classic could hit 1/500. Actually good to know as I am thinking about one as a second body.

No problem, Scott. I'm liking the 1D a lot, and the sync speed is a great bonus. If you don't need the higher MP or high iso performance (which I dont), it's a spectacular body. I think I'll be holding onto it for a while.


Lighting wise, I wondered if that was some kind of molding strip just below the banners where you mounted the lights. A small ladder should get you there and that would be plenty high. Honestly, higher is better but I think the height is decent as is. I think that strip would be a good mounting point once I have some clamps to work with. They're on order right now.


The images are solid action wise and decent lighting wise, they just seem a touch dark to me. I think I'd just bump the ISO slightly and the flash power a bit and maybe zoom back the flash (wider) if it seems too much.Do you mean the players look a little dark, or the background? I don't have a calibrated monitor, so I might have the exposure a little off without noticing it.

get 13 ft light stands, I use the Impact air cushioned 13ft about $70 each.

I was actually shooting over the weekend with some borrowed 13' stands. They helped, but I was still running into a lot of shadows. They're definitely on my list of things to buy though. Much better results than the current stands.

I'm looking at these stands (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/253066-REG/Impact_LS_13HB_Heavy_Duty_Light_Stand_.html) at the moment. Any reason to go for the air cushioned over these ones?

[namasste]

Matt, I love my 1DM2 so I know what you mean. Lighting looked dark mostly on the b/g but I even think a few of the girls could have tolerated a touch more light.

[TopGear1Ds]

Matt, I love my 1DM2 so I know what you mean. Lighting looked dark mostly on the b/g but I even think a few of the girls could have tolerated a touch more light.

Yeah, I had a feeling you were talking about the background.. Even though it's off camera, these shots all have that 'flashed' look (bright subject, dark b/g). That's the general complaint that I've gotten from the photo friends that I've shown this stuff to.

If I brought the ambient light up anymore I'd start to get ghosting though, so I don't know what, if anything, can be done about that. (until that glorious far-off day that I get studio strobes, of course)

I do agree that #1 and #4 looked a little dark on the players, if those are the ones you were thinking of. Thanks for the input.

EDIT: Actually I do have an idea, but I don't know how well it will work. I've got access to two 430's and a 550. If I linked the 430's together on one side of the court, and put the 550 on the other, I might be able to get ISO400-640ish bouncing off the ceiling at full power. I wouldn't even have to over power the ambient (since I can sync @ 1/500), I'd just need to supplement it. I think I'll try that out at a practice this week.

The obvious problems with that are recycle times, and the posibility that it still might not be bright enough. We'll see, just thinking out loud atm.

[namasste]

Yeah, I had a feeling you were talking about the background.. Even though it's off camera, these shots all have that 'flashed' look (bright subject, dark b/g). That's the general complaint that I've gotten from the photo friends that I've shown this stuff to.

If I brought the ambient light up anymore I'd start to get ghosting though, so I don't know what, if anything, can be done about that. (until that glorious far-off day that I get studio strobes, of course)

I do agree that #1 and #4 looked a little dark on the players, if those are the ones you were thinking of. Thanks for the input.you can do it without ghosting....this was shot with a couple of flash guns directly over the top of the key. exif is included to give you and idea of settings I used and the flashes were manual at 1/2 fired with skyports.

http://www.sephotos.net/img/v2/p151613007-5.jpg

[TopGear1Ds]

you can do it without ghosting....this was shot with a couple of flash guns directly over the top of the key. exif is included to give you and idea of settings I used and the flashes were manual at 1/2 fired with skyports.

Directly over the top of the key.. from the ceiling you mean?

From the shadows of the people in the background, it looks like you were getting enough light out of the flashes to also light the background. Am I seeing that right?

The first time I strobed over the weekend, I did allow a little more ambient to fill in the background, but I got noticeable ghosting like in the shooter's left hand/arm of this shot:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/3032434895_515b86446a.jpg

exif should be intact on that one (edit.. hmmm, still not working right with my exif reader. You can see it on my flickr site (http://flickr.com/photos/15628427@N05/3032434895/meta/) though)... do you know what you did in your example that I didn't do in mine? Thanks for taking a look!

[AdamLewis]

Matt, I apologize, I thought you meant a MkII and I didn't realize the classic could hit 1/500. Actually good to know as I am thinking about one as a second body.

Lighting wise, I wondered if that was some kind of molding strip just below the banners where you mounted the lights. A small ladder should get you there and that would be plenty high. Honestly, higher is better but I think the height is decent as is.

The images are solid action wise and decent lighting wise, they just seem a touch dark to me. I think I'd just bump the ISO slightly and the flash power a bit and maybe zoom back the flash (wider) if it seems too much.

You get 1/500 because it uses a CCD instead of a CMOS.

Youre really considering a 1D classic?

[clarence]

you can do it without ghosting....this was shot with a couple of flash guns directly over the top of the key. exif is included to give you and idea of settings I used and the flashes were manual at 1/2 fired with skyports.

http://www.sephotos.net/img/v2/p151613007-5.jpg

Ooh... that lighting looks nice.

I can see a hint of shadow, looks like it'd be at the 3 o'clock side of the free throw line. Is that your strobe or another ambient light source?

By "flash guns directly over the top of the key" do you mean overhead?

[namasste]

You get 1/500 because it uses a CCD instead of a CMOS.

Youre really considering a 1D classic?yeah and yeah. It would be a second body to hold the zoom during games. If I can find a MkII for $1100 or so, maybe I'd do that instead but the classic is so inexpensive and rugged that I'd think it makes a good second body, no?

[namasste]

Matt and Clarence, sorry if that was confusing, I meant that I aimed them directly over the top of the key about 7-8' above. The flash was mounted behind and slightly above me camera left and right. Any other shadowing is probably just the overhead vapor lights. This is a different gym, but basically like this...(similar to Matt's setup)

http://www.sephotos.net/img/v3/p998437216-3.jpg

[clarence]

Thanks Scott.

Were those your (2) Vivitar 285HV's at 1/2 and/or your Sigma 530 Super DG?

[TopGear1Ds]

...The flash was mounted behind and slightly above me camera left and right. Any other shadowing is probably just the overhead vapor lights. This is a different gym, but basically like this...(similar to Matt's setup)

Still not sure whats different about that setup, and my ghosty setup from over the weekend. Am I overlooking something? Thanks Scott..

[namasste]

Still not sure whats different about that setup, and my ghosty setup from over the weekend. Am I overlooking something? Thanks Scott..

Matt, the only thing I can think of is that the higher flash output did the trick. Exif wise, I should have run the risk of ghosting rather than you since I was at 800ISO and 1/250. I blasted them with flash though. As long as you get 1.5-2 stops over ambient, you really shouldn't see much ghosting. I think I was at the normal setting on the Viv (zoom) and around 70mm (maybe 50) on the Sigma. Clarence, that probably answers your question as well. In the action shot, Viv was camera right and the Sigma, left. I actually have found the Vivs output to be great despite their antiquated design.

[TopGear1Ds]

If I'm ~2 stops over ambient with my flash power, and properly exposing players, then I get the results from the beginning of this thread. (dark b/g)

well, I'll keep thinking. thanks for all the responses.

[namasste]

If I'm ~2 stops over ambient with my flash power, and properly exposing players, then I get the results from the beginning of this thread. (dark b/g)

well, I'll keep thinking. thanks for all the responses.

hmmm, if you were on camera, then TTL might expalin it but off camera, not sure. My understanding has always been that shutter speed controls b/g exposure while aperture and flash power will expose the subject. I'd assume this applies to off camera as well. That being said, the higher ISO and slower shutter I used would expose the b/g better while the flash and aperture handled the players. Anyone care to expand on this or correct me if I am wrong.

[TopGear1Ds]

hmmm, if you were on camera, then TTL might expalin it but off camera, not sure. My understanding has always been that shutter speed controls b/g exposure while aperture and flash power will expose the subject. I'd assume this applies to off camera as well. That being said, the higher ISO and slower shutter I used would expose the b/g better while the flash and aperture handled the players. Anyone care to expand on this or correct me if I am wrong.

Actually it's my results that make sense to me... If you want to get ambient exposure on the background, then you're also getting ambient light on the players too (hence the ghosting). The flash is stronger than that, which is why the player isn't just one big blur, but you're still getting that ambient exposure.

Also if you're really shooting with the strobes 2 stops over ambient, and exposing for even half decent background lighting then +2 stops on the flash will blow out the players on every single shot.

Basically what I'm saying is, how could one possibly have proper exposure (or even just decent exposure) of the ambiently lit background, while at the same time properly exposing the +2 stop strobed players in the foreground?

My bright player/dark background results make more sense to me (even though they're frustrating)

The only way I see to get a well lit background while still avoiding ghosting would be to have some flash coverage of the background... which would really be tough with just speedlights. That sounds like studio strobe work.

[SportsOnFilm]

If this has already been mentioned and I missed it I apologize. I would angle the strobes towards the top of the key instead of having them aimed straight as you did in your photo. Most of the action in basketball is going to be in and around the basket, and if you get a little cross light going the faces should be lit more evenly. Also, try upping your ISO to 400 and your f-stop to 4.0 - you will still have BOKEH and a little larger focus area. (I know I am not saying this right - but I am having a brain cramp at the moment)

[TopGear1Ds]

If this has already been mentioned and I missed it I apologize. I would angle the strobes towards the top of the key instead of having them aimed straight as you did in your photo...

Thats actually just the reflection of the strobe playing tricks from across the court. With both setups I had them pointing somewhere between the free throw line and the top of the key..


Also, try upping your ISO to 400 and your f-stop to 4.0 - you will still have BOKEH and a little larger focus area. (I know I am not saying this right - but I am having a brain cramp at the moment)
Do you think my DoF was too shallow in this set? I was pretty happy with it, but the extra focus depth couldn't hurt. I just love the 2.8 bokeh.

Thanks for the clarification.

[NVcameraman]

The only way I see to get a well lit background while still avoiding ghosting would be to have some flash coverage of the background... which would really be tough with just speedlights. That sounds like studio strobe work.
You can use a third flash at about half court aimed at your stands in the background

[PhotosGuy]

Q3) If I tried this with my 40D, I'd be limited to 1/250", right? Maybe not. Test for yourself.
Strobe sync @ 1/400: Pushing the limits. (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=599450)

[namasste]

going back to my prior point, I'd setup at f2.8 and decent ISO (say 400-640) then use shutter speed to expose the b/g. keep it under but reasonable. Then set your flash on manual at say 1/2. There's a decent chance you'll blow things out so use aperture to dial in the correct player exposure. This will darken your b/g a touch but you shouldn't be dialing in much ap change. That's about all I can come up with . That and the zoom on the flash. The more zoomed, the more directed power and lsess light spilling around the players. Zoom the flash out a touch and see what happens. as you do this, you'll change your aperture less to compensate for potentially overexposing the players (if at all). Hope that makes any sense. Beyond that Im stumped.

[TopGear1Ds]

Alrighty.. Thanks for the input. I'll try zooming the flashes out incrementally and see if anything gets me a little more background light.

[SportsOnFilm]

If you haven't done so already, take a look at the following website:

http://www.gophotography.net/tips/lighting.html

Lots of great tips and tricks there!

[Big K]

I would suggest trying to move your lights down a row or two from where you have them in your second setup shot and turning them around and blasting them off the wall. The extra distance from the wall should give you a larger apparent light source and should help with the hard shadows. You will just need to keep the flash heads high enough that the bounce does not create shadows from the heads in the crowd.

I am also a believer that anytime your recycle time is greater than 0.5 second it does not make much difference if it is 1.5 or 3 seconds because you have in almost all instances missed the key moment after your first shot so take advantage of higher power.

I am also a believer that you need to be at least 3 stops over ambient to really get rid of ghosting. I try to get to 4 stops and add additional lighting to deal with the background if necessary.

If you take a shot without the strobes and can see anything lit up in your subject area, you will have ghosting. It may not be very noticeable but it will be there. -2 stops is well within the dynamic range of your camera so it is not low enough to eliminate ghosting.

[TopGear1Ds]

Thanks for the good reply, Big K

I would suggest trying to move your lights down a row or two from where you have them in your second setup shot and turning them around and blasting them off the wall. The extra distance from the wall should give you a larger apparent light source and should help with the hard shadows. You will just need to keep the flash heads high enough that the bounce does not create shadows from the heads in the crowd.

I am also a believer that anytime your recycle time is greater than 0.5 second it does not make much difference if it is 1.5 or 3 seconds because you have in almost all instances missed the key moment after your first shot so take advantage of higher power.

That may or may not work. I'm only shooting with one 550EX and one 430EX, so I don't know if they've got enough juice to bounce. It's mostly the 430EX that I'm worried about. I've already got it at half power shooting direct.

As for recycle times, right now mine are very good. While the batteries are well charged I don't even really have to think about it. No spray and pray of course, but it doesn't get in the way of taking single shots. That would definitely change at full power. (if I got good results, it might be worth it though)

I am also a believer that you need to be at least 3 stops over ambient to really get rid of ghosting. I try to get to 4 stops and add additional lighting to deal with the background if necessary.

If you take a shot without the strobes and can see anything lit up in your subject area, you will have ghosting. It may not be very noticeable but it will be there. -2 stops is well within the dynamic range of your camera so it is not low enough to eliminate ghosting.With my 1D snycing at 1/500 (bless its soul) ghosting is almost a non issue to begin with, unlike my with my30D. I'm more worried about knocking down my ISO. As long as I can get my lighting very even, and two stops above ambient, to get me from ISO3200 to ISO800, I think I'd be happy. More would be great, but I don't think it's in my budget for now.

I'm definitely going to try the bouncing idea and see if I can kill some of the shadows and get at least a little more b/g light. Thanks for the idea.

[Big K]

Thanks for the good reply, Big K


With my 1D snycing at 1/500 (bless its soul) ghosting almost a non issue to begin with

Good point. I forgot about that added mega bonus you have with the 1D. :-)

While you lose power with a bounce, given that the wall is so close, it is not near as significant as what you will get from trying to bounce off the ceiling. I think if you ramp up the power a bit and sacrifice a bit of a delay for the recycle you will be OK.

I look forward to seeing your next round of examples.

Best of luck to you.

[Big K]

Matt,

I started a new thread with a couple of shots from the games I covered tonight. These were both shot with strobes bounced off the back wall. Granted, these were shot with some pretty serious strobes, but wanted to let you know about the examples so you can see how the light evens out as well as carries down court.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=603550

[TopGear1Ds]

Thanks for the link, Big K.

Those are some very well lit shots! I'm still worried that I won't be able to get anywhere near that power with my current lights. We'll see how it goes though. Still another week until my next game, so I'll post results then.