What do I need to do this? Sekonic L358...

[CanonLaw]

I am going to buy an L358 because I need a light meter. That much I know. I also know how to use a basic ambient light meter. What I don't know is how to do the following, since I don't have an assistant.

I want to take a group shot at an event. I want to walk over to the group, fire the flash remotely, get a reading, and then walk back to the camera and start shooting. I know the 358 can interface with a pocket wizard (using optional transmitter) but would I even use a pocket wizard?

Using the ambient light reading is easy, but I just can't figure out what I need to make the above scenario work. I would prefer to not have to take the flash off the camera. I have a 430EX right now, but if a 580EX would work for this scenario, then I could get one of those.

Thanks!

[FlyingPhotog]

The L358 can work in what I like to call "Wait and See" mode...

IOW, you can hit the measure button but it doesn't actually measure until it senses a flash.

So, you could set it where the group will be, take a quick test shot before they assemble and see what reading you're getting.

Having the PW interface would allow you to trigger the flash with the 358 itself. You could also use a long sync cord from the meter to the flash head to trigger and read.

[doidinho]

The 358 will do that; there is a mode setting that makes the meter stand idle for a number of seconds until you fire a flash and then the meter takes a reading. The PW mode just lets you elimate the second control and get the job with the push of one button instead of two.

[CanonLaw]

awesome, thanks! I can't wait to get one!

[Vonzen]

I am going to buy an L358 because I need a light meter. That much I know. I also know how to use a basic ambient light meter. What I don't know is how to do the following, since I don't have an assistant.

I want to take a group shot at an event. I want to walk over to the group, fire the flash remotely, get a reading, and then walk back to the camera and start shooting. I know the 358 can interface with a pocket wizard (using optional transmitter) but would I even use a pocket wizard?

Using the ambient light reading is easy, but I just can't figure out what I need to make the above scenario work. I would prefer to not have to take the flash off the camera. I have a 430EX right now, but if a 580EX would work for this scenario, then I could get one of those.

Thanks!

have the same meter but i cant seem to figure out how to use it to take ambient light reading. thanks

[D Thompson]

have the same meter but i cant seem to figure out how to use it to take ambient light reading. thanks

Try going to page 11 of the manual.

[Lotto]

If I am using a single flash on camera flash, I wouldn't bother to use the light meter. ETTL is reasonable accurate, and I can always use FEC to correct the exposure.

Light meters are for manual flash at fix distance. If you start to use the 430 off camera, the light meter could come handy.

[goatee]

The L308 can do all of the above - and is significantly cheaper. What is it that the 358 has that you need?

[tim]

To trigger my lights I plug a skyport transmitter into the sync port of the L-358. I can also have someone hold the light meter in "when you see a flash tell me how bright it is" mode. I never read the manual so I don't know what the modes are called, they're that easy to use.

[PacAce]

I am going to buy an L358 because I need a light meter. That much I know. I also know how to use a basic ambient light meter. What I don't know is how to do the following, since I don't have an assistant.

I want to take a group shot at an event. I want to walk over to the group, fire the flash remotely, get a reading, and then walk back to the camera and start shooting. I know the 358 can interface with a pocket wizard (using optional transmitter) but would I even use a pocket wizard?

Using the ambient light reading is easy, but I just can't figure out what I need to make the above scenario work. I would prefer to not have to take the flash off the camera. I have a 430EX right now, but if a 580EX would work for this scenario, then I could get one of those.

Thanks!

If I am using a single flash on camera flash, I wouldn't bother to use the light meter. ETTL is reasonable accurate, and I can always use FEC to correct the exposure.

Light meters are for manual flash at fix distance. If you start to use the 430 off camera, the light meter could come handy.

I agree with Lotto 100%. If you have the flash, and an EX flash at that, on the camera, then why do you need to use a light meter?

If you don't want to use ETTL, then just set the flash to manual mode, read what distance is displayed on the flash LCD screen and then adjust the flash power level, the aperture, the ISO or do a combination of any of these until the distance shown is close the what the distance of your group from the camera is.

[Papa Carlo]

I agree with Lotto 100%. If you have the flash, and an EX flash at that, on the camera, then why do you need to use a light meter?

If you don't want to use ETTL, then just set the flash to manual mode, read what distance is displayed on the flash LCD screen and then adjust the flash power level, the aperture, the ISO or do a combination of any of these until the distance shown is close the what the distance of your group from the camera is.
Would it work uniformly on a white background ? Black background ?
One person ? 10 persons ? A lady in a white dress holding a balck cat ? and the emphasis is on the cat ? On the lady's dress ? More than one flash ?

[PacAce]

Would it work uniformly on a white background ? Black background ?
One person ? 10 persons ? A lady in a white dress holding a balck cat ? and the emphasis is on the cat ? On the lady's dress ? More than one flash ?
That's the beauty of working with guide numbers and subject distances. It doesn't matter what the subject or the background colors are or how many subjects are in the picture. Of course, there will be a slight difference in exposure if you are taking a picture outdoors where there are no reflectivie surfaces such as wall versus shooting indoors and that has to be accounted for if you're outside.

When using multiple flashes, you'll need to use the guide number of the combined flash outputs to determine the flash exposure but the principle is still the same. The thing is, you have to do the computation yourself instead of letting the flash do it because there are more than one flash involved in a multi-flash setup (obviously).

[SkipD]

I want to take a group shot at an event. I want to walk over to the group, fire the flash remotely, get a reading, and then walk back to the camera and start shooting. I know the 358 can interface with a pocket wizard (using optional transmitter) but would I even use a pocket wizard?

Using the ambient light reading is easy, but I just can't figure out what I need to make the above scenario work. I would prefer to not have to take the flash off the camera. I have a 430EX right now, but if a 580EX would work for this scenario, then I could get one of those.As said above, but to reinforce it.....

If you are using the Canon flash unit in ETTL mode (anything but fully MANUAL mode), it makes no sense to try to use a meter to measure its output. The meter will be fooled by the pre-flash burst.

A flash meter only makes sense when you are using fully manual flash source(s) and a camera with the exposure control done manually.

[SkipD]

Would it work uniformly on a white background ? Black background ?
One person ? 10 persons ? A lady in a white dress holding a balck cat ? and the emphasis is on the cat ? On the lady's dress ? More than one flash ?If the meter is taking readings in the incident mode, the answer is yes to all of the above.

If using the meter in reflected-light mode, the answer is no to all of the above.

[eigga]

Im about to sell mine. Already has pocket wizard module inside....

Just never use it. Had it in the bag for a month and tried it out once.

[Titus213]

Also realize that a PW in the meter will not trip you lights unless they are being tripped by PWs already. That means you need at least 2 other PWs besides the one in the meter.

Spending roughly $410 to remote trip a flash is spendy in my book. To do that with an ETTL capable flash is even more spendy.

[eigga]

Also realize that a PW in the meter will not trip you lights unless they are being tripped by PWs already. That means you need at least 2 other PWs besides the one in the meter.

Spending roughly $410 to remote trip a flash is spendy in my book. To do that with an ETTL capable flash is even more spendy.

So is using PW to trip flash that rare? Obviously it is for someon who already uses PW.

[Papa Carlo]

That's the beauty of working with guide numbers and subject distances. It doesn't matter what the subject or the background colors are or how many subjects are in the picture. Of course, there will be a slight difference in exposure if you are taking a picture outdoors where there are no reflectivie surfaces such as wall versus shooting indoors and that has to be accounted for if you're outside.

When using multiple flashes, you'll need to use the guide number of the combined flash outputs to determine the flash exposure but the principle is still the same. The thing is, you have to do the computation yourself instead of letting the flash do it because there are more than one flash involved in a multi-flash setup (obviously).
No it is not beauty, it is a guesswork. You do need a light meter in the a/m situations if you are concerned about ther results of your work. The guide number just gives you a figure that is applicable to the most common appoximation.

[Titus213]

So is using PW to trip flash that rare? Obviously it is for someon who already uses PW.

Not at all rare - in fact I would expect most pros us PWs. They are the standard of excellence in RF triggering system. What I'm saying is that if you don't have them they are expensive to use just to trip a Canon EX flash.

And I wanted to make sure it was understood that more than one PW would be needed, which is the case with any RF trigger system. You need a transmitter and a receiver.

[PacAce]

No it is not beauty, it is a guesswork. You do need a light meter in the a/m situations if you are concerned about ther results of your work. The guide number just gives you a figure that is applicable to the most common appoximation.
Guesswork? I guess you could call it that if one is not good at gauging distances. But then, how concerned would one be about his work if he were trying to shoot a group picture with a flash mounted on top of the camera and doesn't want to take it off camera. ;) I would venture a guess that if one took two or three shots with appropriate adjustments after each one (and checking the histogram and LCD screen), one of those pictures would be good enough if one were concerned about the result of his work.

BTW, what does "a/m" mean?

[Titus213]

Guesswork? I guess you could call it that if one is not good at gauging distances. But then, how concerned would one be about his work if he were trying to shoot a group picture with a flash mounted on top of the camera and doesn't want to take it off camera. ;) I would venture a guess that if one took two or three shots with appropriate adjustments after each one (and checking the histogram and LCD screen), one of those pictures would be good enough if one were concerned about the result of his work.

BTW, what does "a/m" mean?

But wasting all those digital images....I don't know about that.:lol:

[CanonLaw]

The L308 can do all of the above - and is significantly cheaper. What is it that the 358 has that you need?

I am not really sure yet what I might need it for, but it seems to be a favorite of many people here, and it is not to expensive. I would just like to get one that is going to grow with me, so to speak. And yes, if I do decide to use it with pocket wizards to do off camera flash, then that would be a nice thing to have. I will check out the 308 though. Thanks!

[CanonLaw]

Guesswork? I guess you could call it that if one is not good at gauging distances. But then, how concerned would one be about his work if he were trying to shoot a group picture with a flash mounted on top of the camera and doesn't want to take it off camera.

Are you saying that you can't get good results from the flash mounted on the camera? If it is outdoors, and there aren't any walls or anything for shadows, wouldn't it work just fine to have the flash on the camera?

;) I would venture a guess that if one took two or three shots with appropriate adjustments after each one (and checking the histogram and LCD screen), one of those pictures would be good enough if one were concerned about the result of his work.



I guess this is what I was trying to avoid, lots of chimping. I was hoping that using a meter with a flash would be able to tell me what I needed to know without having to do that. However, it seems like the consensus is that the EX flash with ETTLII would be able to handle this just fine.

[eigga]

And I wanted to make sure it was understood that more than one PW would be needed, which is the case with any RF trigger system. You need a transmitter and a receiver.

Understood, I forget how clueless I was at first and that those little things do need to be stated!

[Titus213]

Are you saying that you can't get good results from the flash mounted on the camera? If it is outdoors, and there aren't any walls or anything for shadows, wouldn't it work just fine to have the flash on the camera?



I guess this is what I was trying to avoid, lots of chimping. I was hoping that using a meter with a flash would be able to tell me what I needed to know without having to do that. However, it seems like the consensus is that the EX flash with ETTLII would be able to handle this just fine.

I would expect that with an ETTL flash and manual on the camera it wouldn't take but a couple of shots to tune it up with FEC. Not a lot of chimping. I spend more time chimping for closed eyes, bad smiles, etc. That's one of the beauties of being able to look immediately. After all, the mirror goes up and I can't see what they are doing thru the viewfinder. And it's amazing how quick some people can screw up a portrait.

[PacAce]

Are you saying that you can't get good results from the flash mounted on the camera? If it is outdoors, and there aren't any walls or anything for shadows, wouldn't it work just fine to have the flash on the camera?



I guess this is what I was trying to avoid, lots of chimping. I was hoping that using a meter with a flash would be able to tell me what I needed to know without having to do that. However, it seems like the consensus is that the EX flash with ETTLII would be able to handle this just fine.
Yes, if the flash is on the camera and you're using an EX flash, then it would make sense to use the flash in ETTL mode. The other alternative I was suggesting was to use it in manual mode if you didn't want to use ETTL.

I have nothing against a light meter. AAMOF, I have one myself and use it whenever I work with multiple flashes or strobes. But never when the flash is on the camera. It's just not practical.