Image Stabalizing Lens???

[Feihung08]

Hey all,
I had a quick question here about some lenses. I'm looking to get a 20D & I want a good 'standard' zoom lens that I can use for "all around" (portrait, outdoor, sports) settings. Canon has a EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM (http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=149&modelid=7337) image stabalizing lens that sounds pretty promising for about $400. Or would something like Sigma's (http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3264&navigator=2)28-70mm F2.8 EX DG (http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3264&navigator=2) work as good or better? Or just an f/2.8 anything be ok??

I'll probably be taking a lot of indoor sports activity such as volleyball and hockey shots so I want the fastest possible + good quality but can't spend more than $400! But then I want to be able to take some nice portrait shots too!

Thanks in advance!!

[tim]

The lens that's widely recommended is the Tamron 28-75 F2.8 lens. I have one, it's a good lens. IMHO it's better to have a fast lens and use a tripod that to have a slow image stabilising lens, as the fast lens lets you take photos of moving things much more easily.

You might like to read "recommended lenses" thread in this forum, i'd post a link but my PCs playing up right now.

[flyfisher]

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=56752
here's the shortcut

[MrChad]

With the 1.6x crop factor, I wouldn't get any lens longer then 24mm on the wide end.
If you need IS look to the Canon 17-85mm, else Canon sells a 24-85mm too.
Sigma also sells a 24-60 and 24-70mm f2.8.

I use a Sigma 18-125mm DC lens and I love this lens for use on the digital body, you may want to look into this. This is my go to, general use lens.

[charlesu]

Bear in mind too that the 20D can shoot at 1600 ISO and give outstanding results. I've often shot mine at 1600 and 800 for glamour and am VERY pleased with the return.

[rg-tom]

yea charlesu but no matter how much you can push the ISO, pushing the aperture is always better ;) what happens when you hit iso3200 and still need more? nothing you can do, and a lot of gyms would need faster than F2.8 even to get to 1600

[tim]

I was shooting at F1.8 and ISO 1600 to get a halfway decent shutter speeds while shooting theatre. Since it was a rehersal I ended up using flash, shooting the dress rehersal will be interesting.

[Feihung08]

Wow! Thanks for all the great info guys!

Sounds like a faster lens is the way to go over the 'image stabilizer' then huh? I was thinking you could shoot some pretty slow speeds with that and still just 'hold' the camera without blur. But I guess with a faster lens you can still get plenty of light in so you don't have to venture down into the slower speeds?? Sound about right?

I see the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 ($369.95 @ B&H) on the Top 10 starter lenses, but not the Sigma 18-125mm f/3.5-5.6 ($269.00 @ B&H). But with needing a faster lens should I look more to the Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 ($409.00 @ B&H) and give up a little on the 'wide angle' side. I tend to include people in most of my shots, so I don't think I need too much 'wide'.

And good luck Tim!!

[Feihung08]

I posted a reply to this but it didn't seem to register, so I'm throwing this out in hopes it bounces back to the top! Please see my post above!

[tim]

Don't forget faster shutter speeds means you can capture images of moving things, like people, more easily. Actually with a slow lens you just can capture a moving object without it being blurred.

Also, you know wide angle is 20mm and telephoto is 200mm? Not those exact numbers, just that a smaller number is wider. The Tamron lens is recommended because it's an all round good lens, if it's not on the list there might be a good reason, or it might just be new. I have no idea in this case.

[Feihung08]

Yes it took me some time but I did figure that out Tim! The Tammoron that is being mentioned here only goes to 28mm wide while the other two Sigma's go to 24mm & 18mm. So my thinking was that even though the Tammoron doesn't go as wide as the two Sigma's at least it seems to be a proven lens in this forum and should be what I look for?

[tim]

My solution is the Tamron and the 18-55 kit lens.

[Lensdude]

The 28-75mm might be the best zoom range for general photography, especially with the 1.6x crop factor considered. At 28mm(45mm) the angle of view is very close to what we see with our naked eye and 75mm(120mm) produces decent portraits.

[Citizensmith]

I was thinking you could shoot some pretty slow speeds with that and still just 'hold' the camera without blur. But I guess with a faster lens you can still get plenty of light in so you don't have to venture down into the slower speeds?? Sound about right?


Just in case you are still missing the point. Yes IS lets you hadnhold at slower shutter speeds necessary in low light. The problem is that does you not a blind bit of good if the subject is moving as well. To freeze the subject you must have a fast shutter speed which means a wide appeture. Hence, the recommendation for the 28-75 2.8 tamron. I'll also add the significantly faster and dirt cheap ($70) Canon 50 1.8.

[Feihung08]

The 28-75mm might be the best zoom range for general photography, especially with the 1.6x crop factor considered. At 28mm(45mm) the angle of view is very close to what we see with our naked eye and 75mm(120mm) produces decent portraits.
That makes much sense!

So just to clarify, this is the lens that everyone agrees with.....
http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/2875mm.asp

Does Canon NOT make one in this class outside of the $1K "L" model??

[Feihung08]

Just in case you are still missing the point. Yes IS lets you hadnhold at slower shutter speeds necessary in low light. The problem is that does you not a blind bit of good if the subject is moving as well. To freeze the subject you must have a fast shutter speed which means a wide appeture. Hence, the recommendation for the 28-75 2.8 tamron. I'll also add the significantly faster and dirt cheap ($70) Canon 50 1.8.
Sadly, I was kinda missing that point Citizensmith!!
Thanks so much for calrifying it! I hadn't really thought about a 'moving subject' in a 'slow shutter' speed condition. It could create some cool dramatic effects, lets say in a hockey game, or they would just be blurred out!

All I can say is thank the 'internet' for existing, because I can only imagine the run around "crap" I would get from store 'salesmen' instead the "from the heart" advise from you guys at this (my new favorite) forum!!:cool:

[tim]

That makes much sense!

So just to clarify, this is the lens that everyone agrees with.....
http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/2875mm.asp

Does Canon NOT make one in this class outside of the $1K "L" model??

Yes, and yes. The closest Canon lens could be the 28-135 IS, which is much slower.

[Citizensmith]

It could create some cool dramatic effects, lets say in a hockey game, or they would just be blurred out!

Unfortunately most of the time they just get blurred out. However if you add a flash with second curtain synch (420ex or better, or a hacked RebelD) you can start playing with the dramatic affect. Assuming your subject is in range of the flash you'll end up with a sharp subject courtesy of theflash, and a motion blur courtesy of the slow shutter speed. It's one of those things you need to play with but can look good.

[Feihung08]

Unfortunately most of the time they just get blurred out. However if you add a flash with second curtain synch (420ex or better, or a hacked RebelD) you can start playing with the dramatic affect. Assuming your subject is in range of the flash you'll end up with a sharp subject courtesy of theflash, and a motion blur courtesy of the slow shutter speed. It's one of those things you need to play with but can look good.
Speaking of that, what's the differences between the 420ex, 540ez, 550ex, & the newer 580ex?!?! I was thinking the 420ex would get the job done, but I see a lot of peole with the 550ex version here.

BTW, again I'm planning on getting the 20D by next month, so this info is incredibley helpful! I do want to take some 'portrait' type shots, maybe even some wedding shots so I'm thinking I'll want a good flash.

[tim]

If you don't know the difference, get the 420EX. Don't get EZ flashes, I don't think they're compatible with 10D/20D. 550EX has better manual controls than 420, and is a bit more powerful (55 vs 42). I think it rotates more too. 580EX is a little more powerful again, smaller, has faster recharge times, and knows about the crop factor, so it illuminates a smaller area - only what it needs to. I think the 420 is newer than the 550, but 550 is higher up the line.

[Feihung08]

If you don't know the difference, get the 420EX. Don't get EZ flashes, I don't think they're compatible with 10D/20D. 550EX has better manual controls than 420, and is a bit more powerful (55 vs 42). I think it rotates more too. 580EX is a little more powerful again, smaller, has faster recharge times, and knows about the crop factor, so it illuminates a smaller area - only what it needs to. I think the 420 is newer than the 550, but 550 is higher up the line.
Makes sense Tim. ;)
Looks like the 420ex is the best way to go, and not have to shell out an extra $200 or so!

THANKS!!

[tim]

If you find you need more later, the 420 will act as a wireless slave, so you haven't really lost anything :)

[Citizensmith]

Yeah I agree, the 420EX does most of what you are going to need. I've had one for a couple years and never particularly felt it lacking.