View Full Version : Basketball
ILMV
7th of December 2008 (Sun), 17:51
I have just been to a basketball game with my *cough* Nikon D50 ;)
I am really keen on getting back to another game for more photographs, but I had a few problems...
I decided to use my 70-300mm lens, of which was a mistake because it was just too close to the action, great for some really close shots though. I am going to take my 18-55mm kit lens next time, but what other lens would you recommend I use.
Also, I had to use ISO 1600 to get any decent shots, but the noise is insane. Other than post production, how else could I reduce noise? Would it involve getting a new body?
Any other tips would be great :)
Thanks guys / girls
Zivnuska
7th of December 2008 (Sun), 18:08
No mystery. If you continue to shoot ambient, you need at least f/2.8 and preferably f/2.0 lenses. The required ISO will often be 1600 or even 3200--depending on the venue.
The option is to add supplemental lighting from speedlight(s) or strobes.
Not sure about Nikon lenses but I use a 70-200 to get nice tight shots. An 18-55 would be too wide for me. Last year, I was shooting an 85mm f/1.8
DC Fan
7th of December 2008 (Sun), 18:25
There's a good way to eliminate noisy images at indoor basketball games.
You start with four Speedotron four-tube heads, (http://robertsimaging.com/cmItemDetail.jsp?pid=6977) reflectors and packs. Add five Pocket Wizard transceivers, (http://robertsimaging.com/cmItemDetail.jsp?pid=3618) one for each Speedotron head and one for your camera body. Add a few clamps and support chains.
A few hours before each game, arrive at the gym and install a Speedotron in the rafters of each corner of the building. (http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/81) Use the lights during the game to take low ISO shots. Then, after the game is over, break down the lighting.
It should cost around $15,000, but you'll avoid high ISO noise.
ILMV
7th of December 2008 (Sun), 19:02
Well DC Fan, you certainly have solved my problem of high ISO, and its interesting, because as a amature photographer I was indeed looking at blowing 15k on lighting :D
f4 is the lowest my 70-300 will go down to, I did think a 18-55mm might be too wide. I might have to look into getting something nearer a 200mm, depending on price of course.
Also, I tried to use the flash but to be honest it delayed my shots by firing so late it didn't really do much to help. Would a Speedlight (the device that sits on the top of the camera) help would you think? Also, for a beginner if I had to buy one which would you recommend and how much should I expect to pay.
Again, many thanks :)
DC Fan
7th of December 2008 (Sun), 20:38
Well DC Fan, you certainly have solved my problem of high ISO, and its interesting, because as a amature photographer I was indeed looking at blowing 15k on lighting :D
In all practical seriousness, the first step is to get a faster lens, and Canon makes a very affordable fast lens in the 50mm f/1.8 II. (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-50mm-f-1.8-II-Lens-Review.aspx) Position yourself at the right place at one end of a basketball court, and you can get some good images with an ISO of 800-1600 at most gyms.
The 50mm f/1.8 II should be one of the first purchases for most new Canon DSLR owners. It's the best-performing lens for the money (US $80-90) you'll find, and the answer for many low-light challenges.
If you're really bothered by noise, you need noise reduction software like Noiseware (http://www.imagenomic.com/nwpg.aspx) or Neat Image. (http://www.neatimage.com/index.html?d68) Both programs are available in trial versions.
Mike R
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 06:22
In all practical seriousness, the first step is to get a faster lens, and Canon makes avery affordable fast lens in the 50mm f/1.8 II. (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-50mm-f-1.8-II-Lens-Review.aspx) Position yourself at the right place at one end of a basketball court, and you can get some good images with an ISO of 800-1600 at most gyms.
The 50mm f/1.8 II should be one of the first purchases for most new Canon DSLR owners. It's the best-performing lens for the money (US $80-90) you'll find, and the answer for many low-light challenges.
If you're really bothered by noise, you need noise reduction software like Noiseware (http://www.imagenomic.com/nwpg.aspx) or Neat Image. (http://www.neatimage.com/index.html?d68) Both programs are available in trial versions.
I agree and the next most affordable is the 85mm f/1.8 at under $400. I remember when the 50mm f/1.8 was the "kit" lens. It came with my AE-1
Zivnuska
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 10:45
There's a good way to eliminate noisy images at indoor basketball games.
You start with four Speedotron four-tube heads, (http://robertsimaging.com/cmItemDetail.jsp?pid=6977) reflectors and packs. Add five Pocket Wizard transceivers, (http://robertsimaging.com/cmItemDetail.jsp?pid=3618) one for each Speedotron head and one for your camera body. Add a few clamps and support chains.
A few hours before each game, arrive at the gym and install a Speedotron in the rafters of each corner of the building. (http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/81) Use the lights during the game to take low ISO shots. Then, after the game is over, break down the lighting.
It should cost around $15,000, but you'll avoid high ISO noise.
It's not that hard. It's not anywhere near that expensive. It's not that time consuming to use supplemental lighting from strobes. Alien Bee B800s go for $280 each. Two will do. There are several options to trigger the units. Cost will depend on what you choose. Plus II Pocket Wizards (a top of the line trigger) is selling right now for $163 at B & H. Others cost less. Even as a rookie, I can shoot a game in one gym, then tear down and move to another nearby gym and be set up in about 20 minutes.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=610152
ILMV
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 11:13
Guys, I have another game coming up on Sunday, and I want to test some equipment on loan. I am do not have a media pass and therefore cannot use anything other than my camera in the stand.
So, If I hire this 70-200mm lens (f/2.8 ) and a Nikon SB-800 Speedlight, that should improve things?
One of the problems I had with the 70-300mm lens is that when I am at minimal zoom it was sill zoomed in too far, would a 70-200mm cure this?
Speedlight: http://www.hireacamera.com/cameras/hire_menuacc.asp
Lens: http://www.hireacamera.com/cameras/lenses/nikon/s70200d.asp
Many Thanks!
ILMV
Zivnuska
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 11:34
70mm is 70mm so if you want a wider view, the 70-200 will not help.
40Dude6aedyk
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 12:02
What is the crop factor of a Nikon D50? I really like the 85 mm on my Canon 40D (crop factor 1.6) and I sit on the baseline about as close as one can get to the action without playing in the game myself. See e.g. http://twsp.zenfolio.com (It is true that my players are almost all under 5 foot 9 inches tall though.)
ILMV
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 12:25
Thanks guys...
I will forget about the 70-200mm then, I have a stock 18-55mm which I have not played with, would a 'Sigma 24-135mm f2.8' be a step in the right direction. I say this because it should give me a wide enough angle (the 24 bit right?) and enough zoom whilst maintaining a high aperture. I could crop slightly afterwards.
And 40duke, I do not know what crop factor is on the D50, I had looked up the term 'crop factor' but it didn't really ring any bells?
Cheers once again :)
ILMV
40Dude6aedyk
8th of December 2008 (Mon), 12:45
http://www.google.com/search?q=nikon+D50+crop+factor
It appears the crop factor is 1.5 which means a 70 mm lens on your camera is like a 105 mm lens on 35 mm film camera or a full frame digitalSLR camera. This is comparable to my Canon 40D, so if it was me, I'd use a 70-200mm before I'd use an 18-55mm (and I have both) for basketball. In most instances, you can simply move farther away if 70mm is too zoomed for you. With a 55mm you can't get on the playing court if the zoom isn't enough.
Also the Nikon D50 seems to have a 1/500th sec flash sync speed which means if you get the SB800 you can use flash with a shutter-speed of 1/500sec.
ILMV
9th of December 2008 (Tue), 07:23
Does that mean the fastest I can take a photograph (with good results) would be 1/500sec?
Many Thanks
Ben
ILMV
9th of December 2008 (Tue), 07:32
Right, I think I have singled it down to two lenses. Which would you recommend?
Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6
http://www.hireacamera.com/cameras/lenses/nikon/n18200d.asp
Sigma 24-135mm f2.8-4.5
http://www.hireacamera.com/cameras/lenses/nikon/s24135d.asp
Again, many thanks
Zivnuska
9th of December 2008 (Tue), 12:30
ILMV,
Have you decided to give up on shooting with ambient light in favor of flash/strobe? It makes a big difference in lens recommendations.
Z.
ILMV
9th of December 2008 (Tue), 16:21
I was considering getting the SB800 speedlight.
charlesu
9th of December 2008 (Tue), 22:55
I was considering getting the SB800 speedlight.
Switch to CANON.
PuR HART
10th of December 2008 (Wed), 00:12
if you can afford the 800's go for it but. if you can find some SB-26's or 28's those work just as great
ILMV
10th of December 2008 (Wed), 05:28
FYI guys I am hiring this gear for now, the SB800 is definitely on my list but I don't know which of the two lenses to go for...
Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6
http://www.hireacamera.com/cameras/lenses/nikon/n18200d.asp
Sigma 24-135mm f2.8-4.5
http://www.hireacamera.com/cameras/lenses/nikon/s24135d.asp
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