View Full Version : What lens for Rowing/Crew?
thekid5
16th of December 2008 (Tue), 19:18
My son is starting out with the local rowing club. He has participated in one regatta. I shot pictures with my 70-200 and a 1.4x extender. This setup was okay as he was in more than one race and for a couple of races he was in the lanes close to my side of the course. But I have been told for the other races the rowers will be farther away. I am looking at the 100-400 for the flexibility, 400 for sharper pictures( and a little cheaper) or maybe the 300 /4 for a little more flexibility in tougher lighting conditions. I also shoot a little soccer and basketball. I am assuming none of these lenses will work in the gym, but I might use it for soccer.
Based on my experience from the last regatta, I will be using the lens hand held.
liam5100
17th of December 2008 (Wed), 00:23
I did a magazine assignment for crew a few weeks ago, I also crewed in college. The regatta I shot had plenty of overhead bridges which make a great vantage point. I used my 70-200 2.8 alot, and also a few with the 300 2.8. When I was on the bridges I used the 24-70, and a few with the 16-35 for that wide angle look as the boats passed underneath. You can check them out here http://www.wjpimages.com/LRsports/wichitarowing/ if you'd like.
Really what lens depends on how far away you'll be from the action. Figure out which vantage points you want to shoot from, like for me at that regatta. It was an easy walk from the 1st bridge to the launch area and finishing line. Also the river is pretty narrow with easy access to the banks. Once you figure out your vantage points, then you can choose which lens will give you the best reach for the circumstance. I've been to them where guys were needing to shoot with 400's with 2x TC on them.
When you ask of the lenses you mentioned the f4 ones will be fine outside and the 100-400 will provide good versatility and reach, especially with a tc. However, if you want to shoot indoors sports with it as well, especially if your not using strobes the 2.8 lenses or even faster are almost a necessity. If budget is an issue, you might check into the non is versions of lenses, really the IS is pretty useless for sports anyway and you can save some decent money with them. I think you would find adequate reach with a NON IS 70-200 and a 2x tc for the outdoor stuff, and its a good lens to use indoors as well without the tc.
Roy Webber
17th of December 2008 (Wed), 00:49
In good light, the 100-400 is a good all-rounder for most sports. Check out my photo gallery for samples...thanks
otlip
17th of December 2008 (Wed), 14:20
Hi,
My son crewed at Colgate one year and I had the chance to shoot the season. I used my 100-400 L and it quite well. With the two lenses you have should you add the 100-400 you'll have great results.
Don't forget that when the boat is in a far lane it is hard to get a decent photo of the entire crew.
Best of luck and enjoy the season
Richard
thekid5
17th of December 2008 (Wed), 14:41
Thanks for the responses.
For flexibility I will probably go with the 100-400. His next event is not for a month so I will be looking for a used lens deal or the Live.com to come back. I own a 70-200 2.8 and a 1.4x. So with both lenses I can probably get pictures where the rowers fill the frame. I did not think to use something wider until I saw the pictures of the Wichita Rowing event.
I looked at the photos of the Wichita Rowing event and I loved the shots with the scenery. I hope my son rows in a setting as beautiful as that. The shots from the bridge are great and remind me of the picture my neighbor has of their daughter from the Head of Charles. It shows the daughter at the bottom of the frame with the rest of the frame showing the Boston skyline. You can barely tell it is their daughter, but they love the picture. This is the type of picture I would not have thought of, it is more a scenic picture rather than an action shot.
Roy-I saw on another post your picture of the soccer tackle. If these were taken with the 100-400 I have a question about a comment from another thread. The person owned a 100-400 and then switched to a 400 5.6. The person said the 400 5.6 handled the shadows better and he was able to get better detail in his pictures with the 400. Do you find shadows in the face to be an issue with the 100-400?
When my son was in the far lane, I did take pictures but was not impressed. I think now I will attempt to get extreme close ups of one rower, the group of rowers or the scenic type shot. There was a professional photographer there shooting with a 400 2.8. I have reviewed the pictures on his website. Without having the digital file and being able to crop, most of the pictures are okay but not great. I think with the 100-400 I will be better able to frame the picture as taken. I plan on taking a lot of pictures and do not want to be working with/cropping them.
Big K
17th of December 2008 (Wed), 16:54
You might consider renting one first to see how you like it. I have never been much of a fan of the 100-400. It is flexible in focal length but is restrictive with aperture and I did not care for the softness of the models I tried.
The 70-200 with 1.4x becomes a 98-280, is sharper and can be shot at f/4 as well as f/2.8 from 70-200 without the 1.4x. The combination gives you a 70-280 f/2.8-4 range. The 100-400 only gains you 280-400 which is still long enough that composition is only going to be frame filling for a very brief time. Unless you are making wall sized posters, cropping from a good image will still give you very nice prints. The key is the image be as sharp as possible and this takes top end glass and very fast shutter speeds.
I would suggest renting a 300 f/2.8 or 400 f/2.8 and a monopod sometime. I think you would be much happier with the fewer shots from either of these lenses than most any shot you will take with the 100-400. You will also be looking for a way to sell off family valuables to buy one after you use either.
rvissers
25th of December 2008 (Thu), 23:23
I know you just asked for lens suggestions...but here are some more...
1) Shoot what you got first, adapt your positions to accommodate your current lens until you get comfortable enough with the sport and location to figure out what lens is best for your needs and how your want to shoot. (I like a 85mm, 200mm, & a 1.4xTC)
2) I gotta agree with Big K....get a monopod. It really helps no matter what lens you have.
3) Use a CP Filter. It really helps with the reflections on the water & boats, and if you can get a horizon line in the shot, it looks even better.
4) Think low angle shots, lay on the docks at water level, if they let you in the water get in it, etc.
5) If you have an IS lens, then ask the coaches to get on one of their chase boats during a practice.
Here are some shots I took of a MSU, Nortre Dame, U of Miami, & U Of Indiana meet.
http://flickr.com/photos/captainjbuilder/sets/72157604398746264/
S.Horton
25th of December 2008 (Thu), 23:54
My 100-400 is tack sharp.
Highly recc.
Enjoy!
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