Just got the 100mm 2.8 macro, need advice...

[clickcanon40]

Ok, so I just got the 100mm macro and havent really got to play with it yet. It was dark when I got it but I plan to go out early in the morning.

Only problem is that I am in Oklahoma and the winter weather has killed all the green and nearly even cleared out all of the dead leaves. What are some cool things to shoot macro this time of year? Any examples to get ideas from? Please help, I want to get some cool shots tomorrow...

[LordV]

I'd just practice on some household objects -
Coloured pencils, drinking straws, nails and screws, tooth brush etc. Always try some coins or bank notes.
Brian V.

[Karl Johnston]

Winter is a great time for macro ;)

www.deviantart.com

search that website's macro gallery for "winter" and see for yourself !

[Glenn NK]

Even in the coldest of winters, there are often some leaves left on trees, or even sometimes old dried berries.

With the loss of colour, one's attention should shift to form and texture rather than the more obvious bright colours of summer. A single dried leaf on a branch can have great impact when looked at from a short (macro) distance.

The trick is to look more closely and at small things from a closer distance.

[John_B]

clickcanon40,
One of the beauties of macro photography is there are subjects everywhere even indoors ex. food, fabrics, tools and the list goes on and on. What you need to do is think in macro viewing. Most macro subjects people don't see so easily because after all they are small. So you need to get a close up view to find your subjects :)

Enjoy your new lens

[gasrocks]

Thumbtacks make great subjects for practice. House plants as well.

[clickcanon40]

Thumbtacks make great subjects for practice. House plants as well.

Hmmm, interesting idea with the thumbtacks!

[vision35]

Use you imagination in the house. I'm rigging up a simple flat piece of wood with locking casters or wheels to move small objects closer or farther away from the lens. You wont need a slide or macro rail rail this way & can still have fun.

[Matt-l]

Water droplets are the best thing,its fun and addicting and really makes you learn the lens better.

[Salma]

If you have some snow around, snowflakes should do the trick, also insects.

[TATER64]

Just a few ideas
Internals of a watch,clock,computer,radio,money,coins,just about anything small with lots of detail.
Have fun with your new lens and lets see what you come up with:)

[takingflight]

I have also just acquired this lens, used, and a new Canon D50, so I'm also practicing, mostly indoors. So far, I'm not thrilled with the sharpness quality, and wonder if I'm expecting too much. This is my first post. If I can figure out how to include a couple of sample photos, I would love some feedback on whether this is the level of sharpness you would expect of the Canon 100 mm f2.8 macro. The rose photo was handheld with the internal flash. The penny one was on a tripod with internal flash. Both were shot Av f32 with MF.
http://www.takingflight.net/images/rose.jpg
http://www.takingflight.net/images/penny.jpg

[alann]

f/32?! Man, that is A LOT of lost light. I have found that my 100f/2.8 is best between f6 and f11. I sometimes shoot as high as f22 but, loose detail. Try to stay around f8 to f16 and you will see A LOT more sharpness. Review some of the photos in the macro section and look at the exif info. Most are shot in that range. Anything above f16 and you will not get the most out of your lens. Hope this helps

Alan

[LordV]

Agree with Alann - repeat the shots at f8-F11 you'll be getting a huge amount of diffraction softening at F32.
Brian V.

[Glenn NK]

Agree with Alann - repeat the shots at f8-F11 you'll be getting a huge amount of diffraction softening at F32.
Brian V.

For sure - if dof is needed try focus stacking, not f/32.

In fact I rarely use this lens at anything smaller than f/5.6

At f/32 this lens drops to "Fair":

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/167-canon-ef-100mm-f28-usm-macro-test-report--review?start=1

Glenn

[takingflight]

Ok, this is good. I will experiment further. I did not know about diffraction softening at the higher f stops. I guess I have a lot to learn. Can anyone suggest web addresses I can read more about this?

Also, what is focus-stacking and how does one do that? Sounds like a Photoshop thing, right? I have Photoshop, but never heard of it before.

Thanks again for the tips. I really appreciate it.

Paul

[LordV]

Ok, this is good. I will experiment further. I did not know about diffraction softening at the higher f stops. I guess I have a lot to learn. Can anyone suggest web addresses I can read more about this?

Also, what is focus-stacking and how does one do that? Sounds like a Photoshop thing, right? I have Photoshop, but never heard of it before.

Thanks again for the tips. I really appreciate it.

Paul

Paul - demo of diffraction/aperture effects here- http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/2826977585/
click on all sizes above the pic and view the largest one.
Shooting macro makes diffraction effects in lenses worse because it is affected by apparent aperture where apparent aperture = set aperture * (1+M) where M is the magnification factor. So if shooting at 1:1 you are effectively halving the aperture size as far as diffraction is concerned. ie F11 set becomes F22 apparent.
Tutorial on focus stacking here http://www.wonderfulphotos.com/articles/macro/focus_stacking/
But I'd leave getting into this until you have got used to using the lens.

[Glenn NK]

Lens tests are very useful to determine the sharpest apertures of a lens.

At wide open, (smallest number) the entire lens is used to gather light. At the edges of a lens, the compromises used in the design (all lenses are compromises) show up more than in the central part of the lens. This shows up in less resolution at large apertures.

From the largest apertures to the smallest, the central portion of the lens has more and more affect and resolution should increase right up to the smallest opening of the lens.

However, as the opening gets smaller, diffraction starts to take over until the losses due to diffraction negate the gains from the ever smaller aperture.

The point where the resolution is at a maximum is where diffraction losses are just starting to become more important than gains made from using more of the central area.

The important thing about the lens testing (photozone for example) at various apertures is that it reflects these diffraction losses.

A quick look at the tests will show the apertures at which the lens is best.

At f/32, the Canon f/2.8 100 macro is not terribly good - but this is typical of most lenses.

[Randy McBum.]

If you do ventur outside I suggest taking a pair of tweezers in the cold weather, if you need a few frosty leaves moving if you touch them with you hand they will just melt and spoil your shot.

[vision35]

Subjects that don't move (relocate) much are a fine place to begin. Get some cheap genuine canon camera batteries direct from Hong Kong via auction, then use macro to photograph the neat stamps. Rip apart electronic junk in the home then practice taking photos the small parts.

[decoconnas]

Are there any issues with taking a camera and a macro lens out in the cold? My body is only rated for 32 Fahrenheit (it's a rebel, but I think even some weather sealed bodies are only rated that).

[vision35]

Other than cold fingers, tripod & toes. Potential condensation formation when coming back inside from cold weather. Place the both the camera and lense while asssembled in a large heavy freezer bag BEFORE entering building to SLOWLY AND GRADUALLY warm it up inside avoiding extreme temperature differences. Moisture /condensation should form on the bag instead of the camera and lense. Some lubricants may thicken, some not all but a few plastics can become somewhat brittle in cold weather, batteries usually deplete faster in cold weather. Using manual focus instead of auto focus will help reduce battery drain as well. Extra tip. When outdoors a nice clean transparent plastic bag is great for changing lenses and greatly reduces dust on the lense mount and inside the camera body.

[decoconnas]

Thanks!