Flash Diffuser

[BlindGuyTakingPictures]

I have seen both a plastic cap diffuser for the flash and a SoftBox (cone shaped) attachment.

Is one preferred over the other?
Is each one used for different applications?

[robbrouse]

I use a the plastic cap, can with my flash, but have been thing about a softbox so I could get the light where I want it.

Some people with us a white 3x5 card trimed to fit the flash. This is pretty much free give it a shot.

[xenomorphic]

The plastic cap helps spread and diffuse the light from the flash, but does not change the size of the light-source, so does not help to soften the shadows on your subject. A cone shaped softbox attachment will do the same as the plastic cap, but will generally also help you both direct the light and (depending on the size of the soft-box) soften the shadows by being a large light source.

A soft-box combined with moving the flash off the camera is regarded as a very good way of improving the lighting in an image - depending of course on the effect you are after.

James

[BestVisuals]

The best deal of the century for shoe-mount flash is a Sto-Fen diffuser. It's a translucent white plastic cup that fits over the flash tube. Completely eliminates red-eye and gives nice, soft light.

[Photon Phil]

Well put Xeno. Kudos to Norway.

[troypiggo]

The best deal of the century for shoe-mount flash is a Sto-Fen diffuser. It's a translucent white plastic cup that fits over the flash tube. Completely eliminates red-eye and gives nice, soft light.

The Stofen won't eliminate red-eye. Having the flash far enough off the lens to eye axis for direct flash or bouncing it will.

[FLphotoguy]

The best deal of the century for shoe-mount flash is a Sto-Fen diffuser. It's a translucent white plastic cup that fits over the flash tube. Completely eliminates red-eye and gives nice, soft light.

I agree. My Sto-Fen is always in my bag with a 550EX and CPE2 battery pack.

[Titus213]

The Sto-Fen is just a mini-fongsphere IMO. Try the Lumiquest ProMax system or at least the Demb FlipIt. The Demb will mount on the short side of the flash and works fairly well in portrait mode as well as landscape. The Lumiquest is the best IMO but does require a camera rotating bracket to really shine.

[Blackey Cole]

Each modifier gives a different result. Experiment and see what fits your style. But remember this the bigger the light source and the closer it is to the subject the softer it will be. With that in mind you can take a 3'x3' silk screen defuser and put it with in a foot of the subject between it and the light source and see how it wraps around the subject if it is bigger than the subject. For that reason I like 16"x16" softboxes on my speedlites up close and just out of frame. It take the 2"x4" flash head and increases the size and softens the light coming out of it. Yes, I loose some of the light because of the modifier but it is worth it. I seen Joe McNalley take one or two speedlights and mount them behind a Lastolite frame with a diffuser screen on it and create some beautiful light with them that is why I just bought a small Lastolite frame and a b&w cover for it but the diffuser will be coming next month if not before.

[GordonSBuck]

You should check out the many comparative photos on this forum, including this thread: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=377373

[BestVisuals]

Disagree. I have wedding/event photos taken with a Sto-Fen on flash, on-shoe that have no red-eye. They were taken up close with the flash on axis to the subject. I have long-distance photos of brides coming down the aisle taken with seconds of each other where there was red-eye (no Sto-Fen) and no red-eye (Sto-Fen on). In both cases the bride was looking right at me.

The Stofen won't eliminate red-eye. Having the flash far enough off the lens to eye axis for direct flash or bouncing it will.

[BlindGuyTakingPictures]

Thanks for all the feedback.
This thread has been very helpful.

[fireguy_ed]

I think a lot of folks misunderstand "red-eye". What is showing up in the shot is light reflecting off the BACK of the eye. Various factors affect how much, if any, red-eye there will be, ambient light, angle of flash, line of sight, flash power, "medication",and on and on.

If I remember correctly, the magic number is 4 degrees, the difference needed between the eye-lens axis and the light source.

SO... Although the angle on the long-distance bride shots is small, the distance and the StoFen diffused the light enough to stop any red-eye, along with the fact the building was probably lit enough to keep the iris small, again, reducing red-eye.

Blast away in a low-light situation with no "red eye reduction" (mini flashed to close the iris) and you'll more than likely see some evil eyes unless the flash is far enough off the eye-lens axis.

Now, there are ALWAYS exceptions to every rule, we all get lucky, and what works for me every time NEVER works for anyone else........

[xenomorphic]

"medication"

Good one! :lol:

James