Looking for Advise for Studio Lighting

[Guerry Dalrymple]

I am going to be converting our livingroom into a small studio. I have no experience with lighting so will be starting from scratch. I have a Sigma EF-500 DG Super flash attachment currently. Iam very interested in the Canon ST-e2 infared trigger. It appears the 500 DG will work with it. What else do I need for the studio. Obviously brackets to mount the flash unit(s) on tripod or stands. Another flash unit or some other light source?? Some kind of umbrella or soft box?? Or would I be better off buying a 3 light continous light kit to start with?

Thanks
Guerry

[Curtis N]

Forget the ST-E2 and think studio strobes. Entry-level products are available in the same price range as the various Canon flash units and accessories.

Build it one piece at a time. Start with one or two lights, stands and umbrellas. A flash meter would be a wise investment, too.

Radio triggering systems can come later. Studio strobes come with sync cords that will work fine for now.

Here's a great FAQ thread to get you started.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=113639

[RPCrowe]

Studio strobes are the way to go. There are some inexpensive units which are actually quite good.

Here are some of the advantages of studio strobes over trying to jury-rig hotshoe flashes into studio lighting...

The most important difference is that the studio strobe has a built-in modeling light which shows you what your lighting is going to be like...

Studio strobes can fit on light stands without extra adapters...

Studio strobes can accept light modifiers such as umbrellas and softboxes without adapters and usually have other light modifiers such as snoots, grids and barndoors available...

Studio strobes use A/C current and not anemic AA batteries so the recycle time is usually faster and stays constant...

Studio strobes are adjustable over a wide range of power...

Studio strobes have built-in optical slaves. I trigger my studio strobes with an expensive Yin-Yang IR trigger which fits on my hotshoe and has worked flawlessly for several years now...

Studio strobes can be less expensive that the hotshoe strobes such as 430EX and 580EX and even the Sigmas...

This is a link to the Adorama line of inexpensive but, very decent Flashpoint studio type strobes. Actually for your small space the 320 Monolight wedding set at $325.00 would be usable.

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=itemlist&cat1=Flash/Lighting&cat2=Monolights&cat3=Monolight%20Outfits

Here is a link to some very good video tutorials some of which concern one or two light setups.

http://www.prophotolife.com/video-library/

[Guerry Dalrymple]

Thanks for the input. I am going to explore the strobe lights as a starting place.

Guerry

[Curtis N]

Guerry,

Here's another thought, based on your avatar: If you have a physical disability that would make it difficult to repeatedly go back and forth between camera, lights, subject, etc. then consider a brand of strobes that has some sort of remote adjustment as an option. I know Alienbees has a wired system that allows that, and I believe they're working on a radio-based system as well. Other brands have such systems too, but they may be in a higher price category.

Another option is to go with a pack & head type setup instead of monolights, so adjustments can be made from the power pack that typically sits on the floor.

Once you get a light 8 feet in the air, it's a pain to adjust it even for a tall guy like me.

[robbrouse]

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CF0502K1/features

I've read some good things about these. Don't have them, but am also looking for a good setup to start off with.

[hawk911]

Guerry, Curtis is very knowledgeable. The studio lights are a lot more versatile, but the remote adjustment will put you in a higher price bracket.

[Wilt]

Guerry,

Here's another thought, based on your avatar: If you have a physical disability that would make it difficult to repeatedly go back and forth between camera, lights, subject, etc. then consider a brand of strobes that has some sort of remote adjustment as an option. I know Alienbees has a wired system that allows that, and I believe they're working on a radio-based system as well. Other brands have such systems too, but they may be in a higher price category.

Another option is to go with a pack & head type setup instead of monolights, so adjustments can be made from the power pack that typically sits on the floor.

Once you get a light 8 feet in the air, it's a pain to adjust it even for a tall guy like me.

Another alternative to consider is to NOT use monolight studio flash at all, but to choose a pack and heads. All of the adjusting (apart from distance) is controlled at a power pack, which is usually setting on the floor and readily accessible even to those in a wheel chair. Also, the lighter weight alot makes a head (no power supply or capacitor, merely a flash tube) much easier to deal with than 3-5 lbs. of monolight.

[RPCrowe]

Another alternative to consider is to NOT use monolight studio flash at all, but to choose a pack and heads. All of the adjusting (apart from distance) is controlled at a power pack, which is usually setting on the floor and readily accessible even to those in a wheel chair. Also, the lighter weight alot makes a head (no power supply or capacitor, merely a flash tube) much easier to deal with than 3-5 lbs. of monolight.

Right on!

I should have thought of that. The flash heads are much lighter and therefore the light stands can be lighter weight also.

By the way, used Powerpack Units are often available in good condition on eBay for a low price. Here are some examples of older eBay auctions:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=160304140054

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320325232245

[Guerry Dalrymple]

Well I got my first studio light. Now the learning curve starts. Only issue so far is the modeling light doesn;t work. I guess its bad. I'll call them Monday. Thanks for all the advise everyone!

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd296/WheelchairShooter/Alien-Bees-Light.jpg

[Curtis N]

The modeling lights that come with the Alienbees are just garden variety 150w bulbs.

I'm sure they would gladly ship you a new one, but it's hardly worth your trouble. Just screw in a new bulb and drive on.

[O3DigitalBath]

Studio strobes are the way to go. There are some inexpensive units which are actually quite good.

Here are some of the advantages of studio strobes over trying to jury-rig hotshoe flashes into studio lighting...

The most important difference is that the studio strobe has a built-in modeling light which shows you what your lighting is going to be like...

Studio strobes can fit on light stands without extra adapters...

Studio strobes can accept light modifiers such as umbrellas and softboxes without adapters and usually have other light modifiers such as snoots, grids and barndoors available...

Studio strobes use A/C current and not anemic AA batteries so the recycle time is usually faster and stays constant...

Studio strobes are adjustable over a wide range of power...

Studio strobes have built-in optical slaves. I trigger my studio strobes with an expensive Yin-Yang IR trigger which fits on my hotshoe and has worked flawlessly for several years now...

Studio strobes can be less expensive that the hotshoe strobes such as 430EX and 580EX and even the Sigmas...


1. No need to "jury-rig", you place the light on the stand and plug in your receiver with a sync cable of some kind, which is EXACTLY the same way you would do with a stuido strobe.

2. This can be considered a plus by some but others never use it. This light just shows where light might touch not at all what it will look like as it cannot show how it will fall off in your photo just give you some sort of a general idea. You can always just look at the subject from the same perspective as the light and see the same thing. If you have a modeling light you will still have to move your subject light if you are unhappy with it so you will be at that light anyway.

3. In a hobby where a lot of parts cost $1000+ I guess a $15 part is a deal-breaker for you?

4. You will already be using an umbrella adapter if you are using hot-shoe lights and everyone of those modifiers are offered in a way that connects directly. Besides that an adapter of storts is needed for some studio strobe modifers to be attached in the form of a speed-ring, I'd be curious to hear how you can call a speed-ring anything else than an adapter.

5. Though you have a point that recycle time could be faster there isn't a huge need for this. The OP has made the point of saying he will be using this setup in his living room. As he has FULL control of the ambient light in this room and don't need to overpower it there is no need to be shooting at full power with his lights where the recycle time would become an issue.

6. Assuming we are not talking about high end equipment, most hot-shoe and low to mid level studio strobes have a similar light range of 5-7 stops of adjustment, the OP would not be gaining in range, just shifting where that power range will be by going with one over the other.

7. Some hot-shoe lights also have built-in optical triggers as well but as we all know this is not the ideal way to trigger your lights. IR may work for some but anyone who wants reliability along with versatility will want to go to some sort of radio triggers esp. as the prices have come down an so much in recent years. AB Cybersync's offer a very cheap solution that won't require you to hope your IR signal will bounce off the wall if the light isn't in its line of sight. Radio Poppers can offer ETTL functions in a multi-light/off camera setup while also not relying on the IR systems.

8. Currently a 430ex cost the same as the cheaper alien bees lights and offers the option of TTL. Other hot-shoe lights can be bought in the sub $100 range in both new and used forms (from some of the nikon sb-2x series lights to your new 285's). I wouldn't even waste my money on sub $100 studio strobes :?


You also failed to make a point of how studio strobes weigh a lot more so you wouldn't want a little nicer stand than you would need for a light weight hot-shoe baised one.

In no way am I all for hot-shoe lights or studio strobes as I understand both have their place in this hobby and both have huge advantages over the other depending on what they will be used for (which is why I use both). Thinking one is far superior to another would either be just plain ignorance or an opinion baised off someone thinking about a single application. But both have their place and applications.

[O3DigitalBath]

The modeling lights that come with the Alienbees are just garden variety 100w bulbs.

I'm sure they would gladly ship you a new one, but it's hardly worth your trouble. Just screw in a new bulb and drive on.

If I remember right its actually a 150w bulb that comes with the AB lights. But yea if you could toss any bulb in there if you don't want to wait on them.

[Curtis N]

Previous post corrected to say 150w.