Equine Photography

[phoenixfyre71]

I am hoping that someone can help me out. I want to become better at equine photography. It seems to be harder than just shooting our house pets.

I have a Canon Xti with the 18-55mm, the 28-70mm and the 70-300mm lenses. I just got the last two for Christmas and the camera I got at the end of October so I am still learning it.

I wanted to get the telephoto so I could shoot them at a distance better but I seem to get quite a few blurry pictures when they move. I use the sport setting on auto focus because it is impossible to keep a camera manually focused on a fast moving subject. At least for me it is.

Are there any tips or tricks I can use to help me get the shots I am looking for. I want a really shallow depth of field so that my subject stands out.
Also, how do you get well lit shots on an outdoor animal? When the sun is bright and pretty, they have harsh shadows and I cannot run around a pasture with an reflector umbrella, even though it would be humorous to see. When it it cloudy, their coats look very dull. So how do I find that perfect light I need? I usually shoot later in the afternoon when the sun is not as harsh or directly overhead.

Any help would be appreciated. Here are a couple of examples of what I have done so far while trying to learn the camera.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee124/phoenixfyre71/photography/canon327.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee124/phoenixfyre71/Aslan/canon394.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee124/phoenixfyre71/honeyeye-1.jpg

[handyhaver]

I love to shoot horses also. Make sure you are using a fast enough shutter speed if you are shooting a moving horse. Also at 300mm it takes a very steady hand. Cranking up the shutter to at least 300-325 along with a steady hand (or mono pod) & panning depending how fast the horse is moving.

As far as getting the right exposure, you should try spot metering just the horse, use exp. lock, & then you can recompose your shot.

[handyhaver]

another

[phanatic]

If you don't mind hearing from a fellow horse loving newbie, I have learned a couple of things. One is just to take pictures of horses, another is to "zoom" my lens all the way out and move myself to the distance needed. I am trying to download a couple of pictures now. They are not great, but we are both learning, right?
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/CattyT_2006/IMG_5584.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/CattyT_2006/IMG_5578.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/CattyT_2006/IMG_5612.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/CattyT_2006/IMG_5616.jpg
None of these have been doctored yet...I just took them on Wednesday.

[Karl Johnston]

Why not call them horses?:P

[CanadianKitKat]

I shoot a lot of horses and like to use a nice wide open aperture to keep the background nice and blurred. I find that I usually end up shooting 2.8 to 3.6 and usually try to keep the shutter up around 1/1000 for action shots. I like to keep aperture wide open and then just up the shutter speed as much as I have to for proper exposure.

To get the nice shallow depth of field, a wide open aperture, and a long focal distance, between 200-300 will serve you well if you are fairly closer to the subject. The less distance between you and the horse with the longest length on your lens and largest aperture will give you the shallowest DOF.

If you use the search function and type in horse or horses in either the pet, sports, wildlife and even landscape sharing sections you will see lots of examples of some excellent equine photography come up.

[rickdog]

As it's been said already, long focal length is good, use the 70-300 when the light is sufficient. However, you can still get nice portraits with the shorter zooms, since the XTi is cropped. Multiply 1.6 times your focal length and that'll be your true length. Then just stand closer. Also increasing your shutter speed will usually require opening up the aperture and that'll get you the bokeh you want.

One thing we do most of the time is shoot late in the afternoon and around sunset. The light and colors are best then. Sunrise is nice too, but who likes to get up so early!:lol:

For action, we tend to use Tv rather than the sports mode and set the shutter to at least 1/500 and let the camera do the rest. If you're not getting enough light, adjust the ISO accordingly. I know you can probably drop the shutter to 1/320, but the faster the better I think.

Finally, save up for some better glass. Get an "L" series and the quality of your pictures should improve.

Also, keep shooting and trying all functions until you're familiar with your camera and can consistently get what you want out of it.

Have fun!

--Oh yeah, when you can, brush up the beasts and give them a good clipping, then get a friend out in the pasture with a long whip or a paper bag or something to get them moving, then stand by for some great action shots!

[kitacanon]

Here are a few shots I've taken lately that might give you some ideas...taken with the 80-210 with either the 30D or XT...

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/1298/jr5sr.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/6241/jr10sr.jpg

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5143/mg1886c150pu13.jpg

http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/9262/mandfcuk1.jpg

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/936/sasm25xsrbo8.jpg

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5871/sasm22c6p175u13id1.jpg

[thesilent]

Though I haven't used it more than once myself, I have been told multiple times that the XTi's auto-focus is poor and can produce out of focus "blurry" subjects. The solution? Shoot manual whenever possible. Understandably this can be bothersome and impractical when shooting horses at liberty, but for all of the images you shared, manual shouldn't have been too hard. Being able to manually focus an image with ease is a good skill to have regardless.

As for the lighting, you seem to know the answer. On a sunny day, mornings and afternoons, without the sun directly overhead, will probably give you the best results if that's the look you're going for. Don't totally dismiss a stormy sky though. It's an entirely different mood, but it can produce great moody pieces. The key here is just to think about the images you want in advance, the feeling you want to convey, and plan the time of your shoot accordingly. Going out and photographing the moment is great and can work, but planning ahead of time definitely has its rewards. Also, contrast and what have you can be adjusted through an image editing program which may help some of your shots where the light and shadows feel too dull.

Equine photography isn't necessarily harder than pet photography, just different. (To be honest, I love shooting my equine kiddos but my dogs are the bane of my existence.) Browse around equine photos and pay attention to what makes them good in your eyes, then just get out there and experiment. Always look for new angles. You'll catch on to what seems to work and what doesn't!

Of course, I'm a mere highschooler learning the ropes myself, so these are just my two cents that may or may not have been any help at all.

Why not call them horses?:P

Blasphemy! Hahah.

[Jon, The Elder]

If you are interested in shooting competition, check out our galleries and email me your specific questions. Glad to help all we can.

[kitacanon]

In response to "thesilent" I agree that single shot-single focus is better than shooting servo...you can also manual focus....pre-focus on a spot and then just wait for the horse to get there...

[jeepster]

I shoot a lot of horses and like to use a nice wide open aperture to keep the background nice and blurred. I find that I usually end up shooting 2.8 to 3.6 and usually try to keep the shutter up around 1/1000 for action shots. I like to keep aperture wide open and then just up the shutter speed as much as I have to for proper exposure.

To get the nice shallow depth of field, a wide open aperture, and a long focal distance, between 200-300 will serve you well if you are fairly closer to the subject. The less distance between you and the horse with the longest length on your lens and largest aperture will give you the shallowest DOF.

If you use the search function and type in horse or horses in either the pet, sports, wildlife and even landscape sharing sections you will see lots of examples of some excellent equine photography come up.

In response to "thesilent" I agree that single shot-single focus is better than shooting servo...you can also manual focus....pre-focus on a spot and then just wait for the horse to get there...
Agreed on everything here. My wife competes, so I head out when I can to practice. :) There's plenty of time to move between the times they are at the jumps to frame and then focus.

http://www.kcprod.com/sigma/horse1.jpg

(I know it looks compressed and such, just a quick example of the subject matter... this one, the jumper was really close, so I was at 70mm of my 70-200... filled the frame pretty much, but the angle doesn't give much to a blurry background as they'r emore or less going up more than forward).

--kC

[MysticalPhoto]

Check out my portfolio.. I am an Equine Photographer.. If you have any questions.. ask away

The best lens IMO is 70-200mm 2.8.. it's very versatile!

[jeepster]

Check out my portfolio.. I am an Equine Photographer.. If you have any questions.. ask away

The best lens IMO is 70-200mm 2.8.. it's very versatile!
2nded! :)

[RacingMoose]

I love to shoot horses also. Make sure you are using a fast enough shutter speed if you are shooting a moving horse. Also at 300mm it takes a very steady hand. Cranking up the shutter to at least 300-325 along with a steady hand (or mono pod) & panning depending how fast the horse is moving.

As far as getting the right exposure, you should try spot metering just the horse, use exp. lock, & then you can recompose your shot.


Great shot. As someone who rarely attends horse races but has a track nearby, do they normally permit you to enter with a camera to take photos? That's something I've never done and would be fun to try.

[handyhaver]

Thanks.......got a bunch of keepers that day. As far the track letting me in with my gear, there was no problem. This was Phila Park & we were there most of the day. Great place to shoot. Had a great time. Also bet on a few long shots & tried to scream them into winning. Must not have heard us :cool:

What track are you near?


Great shot. As someone who rarely attends horse races but has a track nearby, do they normally permit you to enter with a camera to take photos? That's something I've never done and would be fun to try.

[RacingMoose]

We're near Penn National, which is now the Hollywood Casino at Penn National since they opened the casino part last year. After the first few races I'll probably be broke and will have plenty of time to take photos. :lol:

[handyhaver]

Well worth the trip out for the day.........Beautiful graceful animals.
I went to the Devon Horse Show last week & was kickin myself in the butt for not bringing the camera. Lotsa shooters there also.

[Kazdog]

Not sure if this has already been said, but defiantly work on panning action shots and leave as much room as possible on around the horse to crop in. I took this on a film a few years ago in photography class when I was still learning ( hence the cut off of the back leg I was panning too quickly). Also you want to spend a few minutes trying to get the horses personality, it helps when trying to play up the shots and get character into the picture ( the paint being truly just that lazy ;))

[zerovision]

Make sure the eyes are in focus more than anything. If the eyes are sharp, then everything else falls into place. If you are shooting jumping, you can use one-shot to get the action but if your DOF is not wide enough you should expect the horses head to be slightly out of focus. If you are shooting indoors or in evening light this does not work as well. AI Servo and pan with the horse in these conditions or if you are trying to shoot a horse running in the pasture or race track.

Most of all practice, practice, practice and remember your settings when you practice.

[bob_r]

For events, my favorite lens is a 135 f/2L. I've use a 70-300, a 70-200, a 100-400 and an 85 f/1.8, but the 135 has become my favorite.
For horse portraits, I like either the 135L or the 200L.
I normally shoot AI Servo to handle the movement and aperture priority so I can control the DOF.

Here are a few sample shots taken with a 30D.
Event shot with 135L- 1/1600s f/2.0 at 135.0mm iso100
http://www.pbase.com/bob_r/image/96467312.jpg

Portrait shot taken late afternoon with a 200L - 1/800s f/2.8 at 200.0mm iso400
http://www.pbase.com/bob_r/image/89117791.jpg

Here are a couple of shots taken with a 70-300 IS
Casual ride - 1/320s f/4.0 at 75.0mm iso160
http://www.pbase.com/bob_r/image/105741168.jpg

A portrait - 1/640s f/4.0 at 75.0mm iso160
http://www.pbase.com/bob_r/image/105680706.jpg

[matonanjin]

The 135 F/2 is definitely on my "next list". Everybody that I talk to that has it says there is something just special about it.

These are all great shots. That first one I'm surprised you got that much in focus at F/2. I guess the cropped sensor gave you enough more. Great use of DOF.

[bob_r]

These are all great shots. That first one I'm surprised you got that much in focus at F/2. I guess the cropped sensor gave you enough more. Great use of DOF.

Thanks. You can get by with f/2 on side shots since nearly everything is on the same plane. Shooting from the front requires a little more DOF to get the horse and rider in focus. The following shot was also taken with a 30D and 135L.
1/2500s f/4.0 at 135.0mm iso400
http://www.pbase.com/bob_r/image/96290539.jpg

[matonanjin]

Thanks. You can get by with f/2 on side shots since nearly everything is on the same plane. Shooting from the front requires a little more DOF to get the horse and rider in focus. The following shot was also taken with a 30D and 135L.
1/2500s f/4.0 at 135.0mm iso400


I understand that it is all on the same plane but was still just wondering how much you felt was due to cropped sensor. You've got just perfect DOF in all of these. In this last one seems like the edge of the focus plane is just about her blouse. It is just starting to soften there.

The portrait of the roan horse has absolutely gorgeous background (bokeh) with the 200 f/2.

So you never answerred my question although I guess I posed it more as a statement than a question. Is that 135 F/2 as special as everyone says? I'm shooting the Central Plains Reining Futurity next month and the South Dakota cutting futurity the month after that. They're indoors and that F/2 is a necessity. Last year at the cutting I used 100 F/2 and it was a little short. I'll probably rent it first but then I know I'll want it;)

btw, on this last one and the last one on your group of 4 you might want to do a little straightening.

[bob_r]

btw, on this last one and the last one on your group of 4 you might want to do a little straightening.

If you'll look at the fence posts, you'll see that they are straight and the rails will follow the lay of the land. They may be off by a degree or so, but not as much as the rails make them appear.

Not sure what you're asking about the DOF, but it will be less on a crop camera than on a full frame.

[PHS]

I just skimmed the replies, so I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this. One of the most important things in shooting a whole horse, moving is to time the gait or the stride such that the legs are in a good and pleasing position. Generally you need to see some separation in the legs, and usually in a wide spread (versus the point in a stride where the front and back legs may almost be touching). Just my 2 cents.

[Oak Lawn Arabians]

Hi, I am new here and while this thread is old... this is the place I think this belongs to continue the topic. I just purchased my first SLR camera and would like to learn to use it to shoot my horses. Not only for good sales ads but for my own brag book.

What are good exercises to start out with to get to know the camera besides just getting out there and using it (which I have)?

It is still winter here now and I won't take the camera out unless it is a nice day with about 32+ degrees in temps. Am I babying the camera by doing this? I am pretty sure taking out in the rain without some type of protection is out of the question. :)


Thank you for your help.

Carrie

[handyhaver]

First off, welcome to potn carrie.....

get out there & shoot away.....don't be afraid to experiment with settings, lighting ect..... you have a green box setting on the camera to get you started, use it. I don't know how much you know about your new camera or photog for that matter. If you are just starting out, there is a ton of info here. There are also some great books to give you the basic understanding of exposure, light, shutter speed ect.....

Horses are great subjects & rarely complain....have fun & get out & shoot.

Also, you camera will be fine out in the cold ;)

post some pics when you get & chance & you will get alot of feedback & suggestions.

Mark

[Oak Lawn Arabians]

Thank you Mark. I was out with my camera for the 3rd time about 3 weekends ago and took some shots. I will post a few...

http://www.OakLawnArabians.com/PHOTOGRAPHY/Eli.jpg

This is usually what I get when I first get out to the pastures. :D

This is my favorite time to be outside... Play Time!

http://www.OakLawnArabians.com/PHOTOGRAPHY/D_Sol_a.jpg

http://www.OakLawnArabians.com/PHOTOGRAPHY/D_Sol_f.jpg

http://www.OakLawnArabians.com/PHOTOGRAPHY/D_Sol_l.jpg

I absolutely know NOTHING about photography. Point and shoot has been my motto for a long time but that is not getting me the results I want so I am going to learn to take good photos and that is why I am here. To learn.


Carrie



First off, welcome to potn carrie.....

get out there & shoot away.....don't be afraid to experiment with settings, lighting ect..... you have a green box setting on the camera to get you started, use it. I don't know how much you know about your new camera or photog for that matter. If you are just starting out, there is a ton of info here. There are also some great books to give you the basic understanding of exposure, light, shutter speed ect.....

Horses are great subjects & rarely complain....have fun & get out & shoot.

Also, you camera will be fine out in the cold ;)

post some pics when you get & chance & you will get alot of feedback & suggestions.

Mark

[handyhaver]

Hey Carrie,

Nice shots....As far as reading goes, there's a book by Brian Peterson out called Understanding Exposure.....Never read it myself but gets great reviews on here... Again there is a ton of info on here, don't be afraid to use it...If it's something you don't quite understand, just post it. This is a VERY friendly place....

My daughter rides & I shoot all the shows for the barn she rides at....Can't get enough of them horses!!! Good luck & get out with that gear & use it up.

Mark

[MrTim101]

You don't need a massively high shutter speed as with practise you can take excellent pictures at 1/30th even for action shots. You need to practise panning but for just standard shots, non-moving ones...horses always look better in profile so try to get more profile shots. But also try to watch horses get unusual shots as the horses play, gallop e.t.c. in their field. Ask people if you can actually go in with the horses (if you are at a private stables) and get usual angels. Most of all develop your own style and practise, practise, practise.

[HorsePoor]

I'm by no means a professional, although I do second the fact that their legs need to be in a good position. The pictures of horses with their legs bent up or just coming off the ground aren't as appealing in my opinion.

Horses are a work in progress. It helps to know their gates and how to time them or take mulitples at a time. lol The other thing to know about equines is angles. The angle will make or break the picture.

My next investment is the 70-200mm 2.8f L series IS USM lens. I'll be getting that in Jan or Feb.

A horse drive I went to.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/Hrsepor/Horse%20Drive/04-24-20101067.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/Hrsepor/Horse%20Drive/04-23-20101332.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/Hrsepor/Horse%20Drive/04-23-20101165-1.jpg

Compressed a little bit
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac199/HrsePor2/Sage%20-%20Nu%20Star%20In%20Hollywood/Sage10-29-2010-5.jpg

[vansplic]

One thing I have not seen here (and I may have missed it) is to Know your subject. A good shot of a Quarter Horse is not the same as a good shot on an Arabian. Knowing what makes that breed of horse special helps you know how to compose a good image of that breed. Same goes for discipline (I am not as strong here as I need to be). Knowing anatomy really does help a lot too.

For example do a search for Gypsy Vanner horses. There are a lot of great horse pictures that will come up but not as many great Gypsy pictures. Gypsy horses are judged on "feather" so the good Gypsy pictures are the ones where you can see a lot of thick flowing mane and tail. The Lion King and Black Forest Babydoll exemplify the breed.

[bayberry]

A lot of great information in this thread. Practice practice practice. Try all of the different techniques suggested and use what works for you. And as the previous poster mentioned, know your subject - meaning the breed and the discipline. Every breed and discipline looks for something different and you need to be familiar with your niche. Nobody wants to see an image of them with poor equitation or their horse in a poor frame.

I personally shoot most jumping events by pre focusing on the jump I am working with and panning the horse on the approach. Dressage and other flat work I shoot in continuous focus panning and shooting where and what is appealing to me. I never ever shoot in burst mode. Ever. Only single shot. Horses really aren't that difficult to time and get the correct point of stride without machine gunning it and wasting shutter life.

Some people recommend shooting in shutter priority for action, but I actually never do. I either shoot aperture priority or manual. I want complete control over my DOF and I adjust the ISO as needed to get the shutter speed I desire.

And there is only one traditional point of stride to capture for each gait in most disciplines. Learn what it is for the discipline you are shooting and use it. There is a reason there is only one point of stride to capture - it's where the horse looks it's best.

http://www.juliewardphotography.com/photos/966048716_tZQwa-L-5.jpg

http://www.juliewardphotography.com/photos/928413154_vvPQs-L.jpg

http://www.juliewardphotography.com/photos/595149860_rsFRx-L-10.jpg

[Derek Nickell]

Some stuff from me.

This was on a Nikon D300 with the 70-300mm non-is
Kinda artifact-y...don't know why....
http://www.nickellphotos.com/Simi-Valley-Riders/Favorites-1/Horse-Favorites-2/759024624_tmcvo-L-1.jpg

http://www.nickellphotos.com/Simi-Valley-Riders/Favorites-1/Barrels-1/759024828_my3pA-L-1.jpg


From Nov 6th 2010. Shot with a 7D with a 100-400mm L IS
http://www.nickellphotos.com/Simi-Valley-Riders/11062010/Speed-Barrels/SVR-53/1089261020_cmHde-L.jpg

http://www.nickellphotos.com/Simi-Valley-Riders/11062010/Barrels/SVR-866/1094883002_aZqZD-L.jpg

[matonanjin]

Some stuff from me.

This was on a Nikon D300 with the 70-300mm non-is
Kinda artifact-y...don't know why....

From Nov 6th 2010. Shot with a 7D with a 100-400mm L IS




I don't know that I see the artifact. But the last two, with the 7D, you shot at 1) ISO 320, 1/320, F/7.1 and ISO 200, 1/200 and F/14!, respectively.

Why such slow shutter speed and stopped down so much, especially the last one? You need a lot faster speed and need to open up. Outdoors you can easily get 1/1000th if you were to open up. I always go for at least that and even 1/1500th when I can. This is going to provide for a lot cleaner shots and will blur the background. The 7D handles noise so well you could easily up the ISO if need be.

On that last one, you could have gone to 1/1250 and 5.6 at the same ISO, assuming my math is correct:o It would have been a lot crisper and the background would have been out of focus. Compare it to your first one shot at 1/800th and 4.8, which is really crisp and has nice oof background.

[Pommekitty]

Great tips on this thread. Equie photography is definitely a vast topic.

I was participating in a discussion about cropping on another thread and most of the photographers said they tried to get it right in camera. For myself, in regards to equine shots depicting action, I find myself cropping in probably 80% of cases. I use center point only and I prefer it when there's a bit of room in front of the horse so that it gives the impression he'll be able to move forward. To do this I need to crop on at least one side of the horse to give the photo the look I prefer, like this for example:
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz10/pommekitty/Spring%202010/_MG_0176smll.jpg

I was wondering if other equine photographers here did the same or if you successfully managed to bag most of your shots straight in camera?

[bayberry]

I was participating in a discussion about cropping on another thread and most of the photographers said they tried to get it right in camera. For myself, in regards to equine shots depicting action, I find myself cropping in probably 80% of cases.
I was wondering if other equine photographers here did the same or if you successfully managed to bag most of your shots straight in camera?

I try to get it framed exactly how I want it so I don't have to do any cropping, which is hit and miss with action. I would say I end up cropping about 20% of my images in post. This is a recent goal of mine as of about August.

[Pommekitty]

I try to get it framed exactly how I want it so I don't have to do any cropping, which is hit and miss with action. I would say I end up cropping about 20% of my images in post. This is a recent goal of mine as of about August.

That's interesting. Do you switch to the focus point you want depending on the picture then? Or do you try to keep to the same one.

I shoot using center point only because it's the most reliable but also because I'm not very good at switching the focusing points quickly enough so as not to miss the shot. I've tried but can't seem to get the hang of it.

Cropping only 20% of your photos is quite an accomplishment! Congrats on reaching your goal. I would like to get it right in camera most of the time as well. For portraits and still stuff it's easy to focus and recompose to get the composition I want but I can't do it for action.

[matonanjin]

I never frame too closely. You have to keep the aspect ratio of prints in mind. Many customers order 8x10's. And the aspect ratio on an 8x10 is such that you have to crop a lot of both sides (on landscape orientation).

Even with only an 8 or 10 MP camera (1DMkII) I have never had a problem with cropping. A guy ordered an 11x14 of this and even with the cropping and blowing up that big it looked great. (You have to crop almost from the sides on an 11x14)

Here is the original
http://fourwindsphotography.com/KH1F1817-edit-2.jpg


Here is the cropped version at an 11x14 aspect ratio. And, of course, this is downsized for web.
http://fourwindsphotography.com/KH1F1817-edit.jpg

[macui1]

taken at show in gorey ireland

[bayberry]

I should clarify, I try to frame exactly as I want it with allowance for different aspect ratios for different size prints. I keep in mind that the long ends will often times get cropped off, so I try to frame my shots so they fill the frame going across the short side (left to right on vertical, top to bottom on horizontal). I switch my focus point around depending on what I am shooting, but try to stay on the center unless the scene demands otherwise. For jumping I lock my focus on the jump then recompose.

Here are a couple of examples from a jumper night that I shot just last night. All I had to do to the entire gallery was do a batch unsharp mask and load them to the gallery for viewing. There are no other adjustments at all to these two pictures. Only a few in the gallery have any further adjustmemts, and those are slight additional cropping where I didn't frame it on the fly exactly as I wanted. All final adjustments are made when a print is sold. I just want to shoot them as close to exactly as I want them to cut down post processing time.

http://www.juliewardphotography.com/photos/1099242349_cSYFQ-XL.jpg

http://www.juliewardphotography.com/photos/1099244366_7ujyQ-XL.jpg

[handyhaver]

It can take many snaps to get just the right shot.... Very hard to tell a horse what to do or how to pose......... alot of time it's just the luck of the snaps

[Pommekitty]

Matonanjin, I just checked the exif of that shot and was surprised at the 1/250 shutter speed. I would never have dared to shoot reining with that slow a shutter speed (and in fact did all that I could to stay above 1/400 or 1/640 last time I shot indoors) but seeing your shot made me want to try it next time to see if I can pull it off.

Bayberry, I hear you about wanting to cut down the processing time. When you have hundreds of shots from a show where you're the OP, it must be necessary to get it right in camera.

[matonanjin]

^^^
Pommekitty,
It was 1/250 because I used strobes. That is sync speed. Notice the shadow. I would never shoot that slow with out flash.

[Derek Nickell]

Why such slow shutter speed and stopped down so much, especially the last one? You need a lot faster speed and need to open up. Outdoors you can easily get 1/1000th if you were to open up. I always go for at least that and even 1/1500th when I can. This is going to provide for a lot cleaner shots and will blur the background. The 7D handles noise so well you could easily up the ISO if need be.

On that last one, you could have gone to 1/1250 and 5.6 at the same ISO, assuming my math is correct:o It would have been a lot crisper and the background would have been out of focus. Compare it to your first one shot at 1/800th and 4.8, which is really crisp and has nice oof background.

I was trying some different techniques. I know I can shutter down to 1250 or so to freeze everything, but was trying something different this time. The last time I shot was on a Nikon D300 and had a set way that I shot them.

Like this:
1/80th @ F8
http://www.nickellphotos.com/Simi-Valley-Riders/11062010/butterfly/SVR-1988/1094898214_gus35-L.jpg

1/40th @ F16
http://www.nickellphotos.com/Simi-Valley-Riders/11062010/butterfly/SVR-1749/1094916153_jNnko-L.jpg

[Jnader]

no one has been in this forum for awhile... but i just started working on a ranch and im going to be in charge of the pictures for the sale horses.... should i get a canon 50mm 1.4 or Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM thanks!

[bayberry]

^^^
Pommekitty,
It was 1/250 because I used strobes. That is sync speed. Notice the shadow. I would never shoot that slow with out flash.

Exactly. I shot most of my images from last weeks horse show at 1/200 because I used flash.

http://www.juliewardphotography.com/photos/1233445237_kbfSE-XL.jpg

[matonanjin]

no one has been in this forum for awhile... but i just started working on a ranch and im going to be in charge of the pictures for the sale horses.... should i get a canon 50mm 1.4 or Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM thanks!

Sorry about the delayed response on this. I thought I was subscribed to this thread but apparently not.:(

To answer your question: 1) it depends and 2) it depends. Sorry:rolleyes:

1st, it depends on what body you are shooting. Both these lenses will have a different effect on whether you are shooting a crop sensor or a full frame. Both will have more telephoto effect on a crop sensor vs. full frame.

2nd, it depends on what your trying to do as far as the sale horses. If you are wanting side body shots for sale catalogs I suppose either would do. If you are wanting pasture type shots your zoom might be better.

And there is actually one more "depends" type answer in that it depends on what you lenses you currently have. To me both of your lens choices are pretty limiting if these are going to be your only choices: a prime and tele zoom. If it were me and I had only one choice I would look at something more like a moderate wide angle to short tele zoom like the 24-105 F/4L. But that is way higher dollars than your choices. You could look at something like the Tamron 28-75 F/2.8 which is close to your budget and more of a "general purpose" type zoom.

These, I realize, aren't very good answers and sorry about the sarcasm. I just can't help myself. But we really need more information. That's probably why no one else has responded.

[matonanjin]

Exactly. I shot most of my images from last weeks horse show at 1/200 because I used flash.



Why 1/200th instead of 1/250th? Are you shooting with a 5D?

[bayberry]

Why 1/200th instead of 1/250th? Are you shooting with a 5D?

Actually my nikon bodies synch to 1/320. But I use 1/200 for two reasons, the first is when using my ebay triggers they DON'T synch well faster than 1/200. The other reason is I like to gather as much ambient light as possible for a more natural looking image. If there is no reason to go faster to stop action then I don't worry about it. In ~1000 images over the 5 day show not one had motion blur at 1/200.

[matonanjin]

Ah. Didn't realize that you shoot Nikon. What's interesting to me is that when I use Cybersync's with my 5D I have to drop down to about 1/160. (The sync speed on it is 1/200th and that's why I asked if you were using a 5D.) When I use cybersync's with my 1DMkII I can use its fastest sync speed of 1/250th.:confused: My shot of the paint horse stopping a page or 2 back was with the 1D at 1/250th. I just report em I don't explain em.:rolleyes:

[bayberry]

Ah. Didn't realize that you shoot Nikon. What's interesting to me is that when I use Cybersync's with my 5D I have to drop down to about 1/160. (The sync speed on it is 1/200th and that's why I asked if you were using a 5D.) When I use cybersync's with my 1DMkII I can use its fastest sync speed of 1/250th.:confused: My shot of the paint horse stopping a page or 2 back was with the 1D at 1/250th. I just report em I don't explain em.:rolleyes:

And how does 1/160 stop action with flash? I've never tried to shoot that slow, but I suspect it might turn out fine. I'll have to try it at my next show. Frankly I can't wait for the summer OUTDOOR shows so I don't have to flash ugly indoor arenas. :)

[matonanjin]

I don't use 5D for action. The AF just isn't like a 1D series. But I am sure it would still be ok as far as flash. The flash is still going to be at 1/2000th or so. I gang strobes and then shoot them at 1/2 power for shorter duration and faster recycle. As dark as indoor arenas are where I shoot I think you could even go slower shutter speeds and still not see "ghosting" from motion blur.

Unfortunately, every show I have contracts for this year are indoors:( Outdoors sure makes it easier!

[rojasphoto]

cool pictures

[batman1056]

Hi I have just bought a canon 550D and I love taking photos of my daughter and her horses - I am very new at this so info on a versatile lens that will help would be fantastic

[Brandon72]

I don't use 5D for action. The AF just isn't like a 1D series. But I am sure it would still be ok as far as flash.

It's fine either way. Just know your course and prefocus on the jump.

[matonanjin]

I or someone else may not be shooting something you can prefocus on. If I am shooting a running horse at full speed I want an AF I can depend on.