Can you give advice on metering flash light?

[johneric8]

I have been trying to learn how to shoot with my external flash on a stand and no flash on my camera. Here is my question? Can I get a meter that will meter the ambient light as well as the flash lighg? or, do I need two different meters? I saw a guy meter the light from the flash while he was next to the subject. He pushed a button and the flash went off and he gave the reading out loud. Should the flash be a stop darker then the ambient light? Or is it dependent on how bright it is outside. I would apreciate this explained in as simple terms as possible. I know lots of questions but please try to get to them all..LOL

[Harry Settle]

When you take an incident reading, like the guy you saw, you get the total of all the light that the lens will see. Set your f stop/speed on the camera according to that. Adjust your light output to your liking.

[scottbergerphoto]

Most decent digital flash meters tell you how much of the light is coming fom the flash and how much from the ambient light. Check out the Sekonic L358.
Scott

[PhotosGuy]

I've caught flak over this before, but I'm going to say it again: Meters are great if you're a pro working with a lot of lights set at different intensities. And if you're shooting film. With digital, you can get a fairly decent representation of the shot on the LCD which, IMO is better than the "fairly decent representation" you get with a flash meter. So, why not just shoot & chimp? Experiment at home & get used to your equipment. Check the overall lighting effect & use the histogram to dial in the right exposure. When you get close, you can run the shot up on the computer & check the details.
We used to have to write notes on settings. Now, I'd suggest that you take a pic without flash so you have the EXIF data on the correct exposure without flash, cam settings, etc. You might want to write down distances to the subject & distances to the flash if you're using 1 or more off the cam & make a simple diagram for future use.
Experiment. Get to know your equipment. Soon, you probably not feel the need for a flash meter anymore. ;)

Here's something that might help you figure light fall-off in your head.

The difference between a light at 2.8 feet & the same light at 4 feet is 1 stop.
Same for 8 feet & 11 feet.
Same for 16 feet & 22 feet.
Do you see where the difference between those numbers come from? They correspond with f-stop numbers. 4 to 5.6 to 8 to 11 to 16; there's one stop difference between them.

So, given equal powered lights, if one is 8' away & I move it 16 feet away, the amount of light is reduced 4X & falls off by 2 stops.
((This ratio also works with bellows extention factors & sound pressure levels when setting up mics for video - 8 feet to 11 feet = 3dB.)

RE: "Should the flash be a stop darker then the ambient light?"
I'd start around there. It's something that you have to play with to get results that look natural. ;)

[chtgrubbs]

Why take multiple exposures and run them up in the computer when you can just pop the strobes and set the camera right the first time? And using a meter to adjust the output of multiple strobe heads is much faster and mor accurate than making an exposure for every adjustment on every head. I can meter a four light portrait setup and get accurate ratios and exposure in just as couple of minutes with meter and remote trigger.

[PhotosGuy]

Why take multiple exposures and run them up in the computer when you can just pop the strobes and set the camera right the first time? Are you under the impression that I said to do that?
Also, he said, "I have been trying to learn how to shoot with my external flash on a stand and no flash on my camera.", so he has a single flash & no external meter, & I tried to point out how he can move a strobe on a stand & have a pretty good idea what the change in intensity will be.

[johneric8]

thanks guys very helpful info.. I'm a guy who likes to invest in technology, so having the meter will be fun for me more then anything.... I am just curious how it all works.
One question? How do you trigger the strobe when you are metering near you subject? Do you have to purchase some extra equipment or will the meter trigger it somehow?

[Harry Settle]

If you get a meter like the Sekonic L358, you set the meter to uncorded, hold it by your subject (usually right under the chin) pointed towards your camera, then you can either have someone fire a test shot, use the camera timer, or remote like with a pocket wizard. The directions that come with it are very easy to understand.

I have been one of those that has been having a lot of trouble getting my lighting correct. Since I got my meter I have begun to understand what's going on with my camera and lighting much better. It's getting easier to anticipate settings.

[johneric8]

If you get a meter like the Sekonic L358, you set the meter to uncorded, hold it by your subject (usually right under the chin) pointed towards your camera, then you can either have someone fire a test shot, use the camera timer, or remote like with a pocket wizard. The directions that come with it are very easy to understand.

I have been one of those that has been having a lot of trouble getting my lighting correct. Since I got my meter I have begun to understand what's going on with my camera and lighting much better. It's getting easier to anticipate settings.


Thanks Harry!