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rpadgett2
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 17:10
I'm having a little issue with my camera. I have an EOS rebel with the 18-55mm lense. I just got the camera and I'm starting to get into taking pictures. I'm new at this so and would be thankful for any help.

Ok, the problem is taking action shot pictures. I have the camera set on the sports setting. When I take pictures during the day they come out fine. When I take them at night they are all blurry. I'm not changing anything on the camera at all during this time. Here are some examples of what I'm taking about.

Day Picture (http://www.628racing.com/day.jpg)

Night 1 (http://www.628racing.com/night1.jpg)

Night 2 (http://www.628racing.com/night2.jpg)

Night 3 (http://www.628racing.com/night3.jpg)

Is there something wrong with the camera or is the user error?


Thanks

sid
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 17:14
I think the problem might be in the lens. The low light situations are making it much harder for the camera to focus. You might need to upgrade to a better lens...

baboymo
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 17:26
Try shooting in AV mode with apeture set at the lowest setting with a higher ISO like 800 or 1600.

eastcoast909
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 17:38
Nope, nothing wrong at all with the camera :) :)

If you look at the exif information on the picture you find that you have:

Exposure time 1/25 second
F number 5.6
ISO speed 400

What is happening is that the subject is moving during the time that the shutter is open (1/25 of a second). That length of time is too long to freeze the action so that it is sharp.

You are going to have a very hard time trying to get clear pictures at night with that lens and those settings. In order to stop the action you need to get your shutter speed up to at least 1/250 of a second (or more).

In order to do this with this lens and to get the exposure you want you need to up the ISO speed. Most people shooting indoor use an ISO speed of at least 800 or even 1600. If you need a faster ISO speed then you will have to go to a "hacked" Rebel or another camera that allows ISO 3200.

Another way of getting more light on the sensor so that you ISO speed can come down is to use a faster lens (faster as in an aperature of f2.8 or smaller). This is normally associated with a more costly lens (as in L or high end Sigma's, Tamron's etc. :cry: :cry: )

You can also get a more clear shot by panning with the subject (which you are doing) but there are limits to this and it appears that you have reached them.

To summarize:

Up the ISO speed
Up the Shutter speed
Open the aperature to smallest to allow the most light.

In all reality, buy a new lens if your going to do this type of shooting.

Hope this helps,

bmer
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 17:41
Try shooting in AV mode with apeture set at the lowest setting with a higher ISO like 800 or 1600.

so that way you will have a faster Shutter Speed...

you day pic was taken at 1/800 but the night pic was taken at 1/60 (witch is to slow for motocross if Im right)

If you want more info of that subject I try this link

http://www.silverlight.co.uk/tutorials/compose_expose/exposure.html

good read, I have learn a lot from it...

-bmer
(edit) grrr.. eastcoast909 beat me to it... im so slow ( but there again im french hehe :P )

rpadgett2
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 17:53
Thanks for the great replys.

Had a feeling the problem was the one holding the camera. :)

I've got a lot to learn about photography and my camera.

Thanks again, I'm sure I'll have more questions as I progress.


Ronnie

tim
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 18:00
I suggest doing a basic local photography class, I found mine invaluable.

ron chappel
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 18:06
Hi ronnie ,welcome to the forum!

The sort of problem you are having happens in photography alot.
Allmost any camera and lens will take great pics in the majority of situations-it's the odd difficult situations that require increased knowledge and/or spending :)

It's these tricky bits that interest most of us-what gives us a challenge
....but i also think the challenge of spending more is the priority of most of us at times too:lol: :lol:

rpadgett2
22nd of March 2005 (Tue), 18:26
Thanks.

A local class is a great idea. I will look at our community college tomorrow and see if they have anything going.

I race the FTR series here in Florida and I plan on taking pictures of the races after mine. So now I have to do a little research and find the right lens to upgrade too. Also have to learn more about my camera.

Ronnie

eastcoast909
24th of March 2005 (Thu), 04:02
Ronnie:

If you haven't seen this thread (new) check it out.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63583

This is exactly what you want to do. Note the lens that hes is using. it is expensive but you get results like this also. :) :)

Vega$50
24th of March 2005 (Thu), 07:19
I am sure most will agree that in addition to the class, go get a 50mm 1.8 (inexspensive) and you will see a difference in pictures taken....I am not bashing the kit lens, but it has its limitations.
Have fun!

Jetmech1
24th of March 2005 (Thu), 14:17
I have the 300D and it has taken some decent low light pics for me with the Canon 85mm 1.8 prime lens. I did not purchase the kits lens, but night action pics can be challeging to take.

Todd Jacobsen
24th of March 2005 (Thu), 14:44
I have the 300D and it has taken some decent low light pics for me with the Canon 85mm 1.8 prime lens. I did not purchase the kits lens, but night action pics can be challeging to take.

Note that his lens was a 135mm which allows him to be farther from the action. Being farther from the action allows for better panning opportunities.

One of his shots shows an EXCELLENT panning shot.

Although he doesn't mention apeture settings. Based on the exposures, the apeture setting was probably low (probably 2.0-3.5). It's not something you can do at 5.6 (due to shutter speed).

I did note that the photos shown here probably could be accomplished with the existing lens -IF- corrent panning techniques were utilized (ie tripod/monopod minimum). There did seem to be areas in the photos that were very CLOSE to being in focus (which lead one to believe camera shake was major cause).