New Rebel XT gives blurred pics

[funpix]

Ok I am assuming I am missing something. With my S1IS I can shoot children at play with no blurring, but with the new XT when I shoot with the same preset I get horrible results. The images are blurred beyond recoginition. Can anyone offer any suggestions as to why?

details
---------
Kit Lens 18-55 II
Shooting Mode
Sports
Tv( Shutter Speed )
0.3
Av( Aperture Value )
5.6
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation
0
ISO Speed
400
Lens
18.0 - 55.0mm
Focal Length
55.0mm
Image Size
3456x2304
Image Quality
Fine
Flash
Off
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
AI Servo AF
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Mid. High
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
2880KB
Drive Mode
Continuous shooting

[emilbev]

First send us the picture and list your settings (shutter, aper) and list the lens you were using.

[jpmccormac]

The rule-of-thumb for hand holding and not getting a blurry image due to a shaky hands is to (generally) relate the focal length to the shutter speed, i.e., if shooting at a focal length of 100mm, then 1/100 second is considered the minimum shutter speed. Even IS doesn't solve all hand shake problems, but only permits shooting at about two stops slower than normal.

Your posted image appears to suffer from subject movement and hand shake. I'd guess you were shooting at about 1/25 second or slower. In this situation I'd use at least ISO 800, maybe ISO 1600. The XT will give nice images at ISO 800 and permit faster shutter speeds. We really need more info. from you on your settings.

[Todd Jacobsen]

The rule-of-thumb for hand holding and not getting a blurry image due to a shaky hands is to (generally) relate the focal length to the shutter speed, i.e., if shooting at a focal length of 100mm, then 1/100 second is considered the minimum shutter speed. Even IS doesn't solve all hand shake problems, but only permits shooting at about two stops slower than normal.

Your posted image appears to suffer from subject movement and hand shake. I'd guess you were shooting at about 1/25 second or slower. We really need more info. from you on your settings.

JP is dead on. Your shutter speed is WAY to slow for your hand holding technique. Based on the play, indoors, probably no external flash (internal no strong enough for distance), as well as KIT lens(?) ...

IE If you are using a kit lens, your smallest apeture setting is probably 5.6 which causes your shutter speed to be much slower (cause it needs light) than handholding will allow.

In addition, what ISO setting are you on? Switch it to 400 minimum (when indoors).

EDIT: Based on the data shown above, your shutter speed is TOO slow for you to handhold. Minimum shutter speed for hand hold is 1/60. You are closer to 1/30.

[mbze430]

Tv( Shutter Speed )
0.3

That's the problem. It's too long to be hand held. or even to capture motion. Since you are using the kit lens, you are limited by the apeture, the only thing you can do is up the ISO speed another stop, or get closer.

[Todd Jacobsen]

Just to clarify:

It ain't the camera...

[funpix]

Thank you all for your input. This is my first DSLR and I am just getting used to the differences it makes as compared to my point & shoot S1IS. It's nice to know that it is not the camera (whew).

Then apart from the kit lens what would be a better choice for taking photos like this? I was looking at the 75-300? lens with IS but that shooting my budget another 1200CAN I think (humm).

[RichardtheSane]

OK, firstly, get out of the basic modes.

Put the camera TV, set the ISO to 800 or 1600 and the shutter speed to 1/60th minimum.

Even at this your lens is a bit slow (amount of light it lets in) for indoor use without the flash. Maybe pick the 50mm F1.8 up, that is much more suited for indoor no flash use.

:)

[hank1105]

Also for shooting something like this, a tripod is a huge help, believe me I suffer from camera shake and it helps. Ditto on what everyone else has said.

Hank

[Jim_T]

Just to add.. I don't know why you picked sports mode.

Your kit lens has a maximum aperture of f/3.5, but the sports setting decided that it wouldn't open all the way to let in maximum light and instead chose f/5.6 This was the WRONG setting for the conditions you were shooting under because the camera had to keep the shutter open longer to compensate for the smaller lens opening.

To get the best results from you camera, you'll have to learn to shoot in the creative modes.. The auto modes were programmed by some guy at the factory who could only make a best guess at what you'd be shooting.

If you would have chosen Av mode, you could have forced the aperture to f/3.5 and reduced the shutter time which in turn would have resulted in less blur. Bumping the ISO to 800 would have helped even more.

Also, your S1 has a faster lens ( f/2.8 ) and image stabilization. Your S1 is a far better choice for low light shooting at ISO 100 or 200. If you get rid of the kit lens and pick up a fast IS lens, then your 300D will be back on top :)

Note that IS only helps elimiate your shake.. It won't stop moving objects from blurring due to the wrong shutter speed.

[mbze430]

Just to add.. I don't know why you picked sports mode.

Your kit lens has a maximum aperture of f/3.5, but the sports setting decided that it wouldn't open all the way to let in maximum light and instead chose f/5.6 This was the WRONG setting for the conditions you were shooting under because the camera had to keep the shutter open longer to compensate for the smaller lens opening.

Actually it's right. She zoomed to 55mm, that lens gives the widest apeture of 5.6 at that range.

[RichardtheSane]

Your kit lens has a maximum aperture of f/3.5, but the sports setting decided that it wouldn't open all the way to let in maximum light and instead chose f/5.6

I think this is because it was shot at 55mm, and at this lengh the max aperture is f5.6 :)

[edited to say we posted at the same time :) :)]

[Jim_T]

Actually it's right. She zoomed to 55mm, that lens gives the widest apeture of 5.6 at that range.

Missed that :)

[funpix]

I picked the Sports mode because I presumed that it would give me the same results as the S1. Obviously I was gravely mistaken. I should have considered the facts as you already stated. I have learned a good lesson on a not so very important event. Our daughter was actually the narrator of this play and she was seated the entire time. Her pictures turned out fine. :)

[Anteros]

I had the same problem with the kit lens. I ended up buying a Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens to help me take pictures in low light conditions.

Even later I ended up buying a lens with IS (Image Stabilization), the 28-135 IS, which allowed me to go about a couple of stops below the 1 / (focal length) suggestion.

If you cannot get a fast enough shutter speed and you do not want to go the new lens route, I would recommend trying the following to see if it works for you:
1) Bring a tripod or Monopod (if allowed). If that fails, try to rest it on a table or another chair.
2) Tuck your arms in and rest your upper arms against your sides if you can. Press the shutter softly and slowly to minimize movement.
3) Get someone you know to sit in front of you and rest your camera on their shoulder.
4) Rest your body against a wall or a pillar (or something strong and sturdy) to minimize movement.

Hope this helps.

[mr.photoguy]

Another tip that I didn't see posted is Review Your Images After Shooting.
RYIAS .. think of that as the shortcut.

If you review your images, you will have way more keepers.
Also use the zoom review...

Good luck ..

[Big Hands]

I think the best advice I could give would be to second the recommendations to leave the Basic Zone settings alone and go ahead and get to know the Creative Zone settings. The 'green square' is about as far down as I go anymore. I really have begun to appreciate the Manual mode and have seen very nice results shooting sports in that mode although you have to keep your eye on the exposure meter since conditions can change if you so much as turn and shoot a different direction.

Getting to know the histogram is also useful to stay on track during a shooting session.

The Program mode might be a good place to start and then venture into the others when you have time to experiment.

A monopod can also be a great aid to reduce or eliminate camera shake.

[prime80]

You can pick up the EF 50mm f/1.8 for less than $80 out the door at B&H Photo. I just got mine today. It would allow you to use a MUCH higher shutter speed for these types of events. Image quality is much better than the kit lens as well.

[kawter2]

urghhh, man i got here too late :0

[funpix]

I was thinking about the 50 mm but on a budget. I would like to be able to take in more action shots such as sporting events in a gym. Any ideas here?

[tim]

You're not going to find a cheaper lens that's better suited to indoor photography than the 50mm F1.8 at around $80.

[funpix]

50mm could be used for outdoors as well? Or would it be to far a focal length for capturing kids sporting events?

[tim]

If anything it might be a bit short, but you're not going to find much else in that price range that will do a better job. It might just be the cheapest Canon EF lens, and it's excellent given its price.

[ron chappel]

The 50/1.8 is maybe too short for normal sports photography.
For sports most people use a telephoto zoom which go from about 70mm up to 200/300mm.
The huge benifit the large aperture 50/1.8 gives you in low light is rarely needed in the daytime.
That's why SLR cameras have interchangable lenses-so you can have several on hand to do different jobs.
Unfortunately one has to spend $ to have these special capabilites

[tim]

Yeah but it would probably be ok for indoor sports photography, like I said maybe a bit short, but not too bad.

[ijohnson]

I was thinking about the 50 mm but on a budget. I would like to be able to take in more action shots such as sporting events in a gym. Any ideas here?

Just tape a shot glass to the front. That's the only thing cheaper than the 50mm 1.8.