Fashion Photography

[mgrover]

I have been contacted by a children's clothing designer to do a photo shoot so she can use the photos to help promote her business. Since I have never done fashion photography before, my question is do you usually charge by the hour or by the image? I am leaning toward by the hour, but I want to know what the industry standard is.

She is planning on using the images on her website and in local publications. The "models" will be small children (1 - 4 years old) - she is advertising a casting call to get models and says I am free to sell photos to the parents if I like.

[sspellman]

Marc-

Commercial photography is usually charged by Creative Fee + Usage Fees + Expenses. The Creative Fee is usually based on an hourly or daily rate. Usage Fees are added depending on the clients use of the image-one time use in a brochure is a different rate than 1000 billboards across the country. Expenses are itemized and billed at actual or marked up. You can get example prices for commercial use on the GettyImages or Alamy websites.

It is alarming to me that you are trying to provide a professional service in an area of photography were you have zero experience. Fashion photography especially with children is much harder than it looks. I would never charge a client for a type of photography where I have not already proven to deliver a high level of quality and service. I hope that you will have ample time to practice before a client shoot. If you had more experience in the industry, you would also know that models are never charged for photos taken during commercial shoots.

Good Luck-
Scott

[mgrover]

Marc-

It is alarming to me that you are trying to provide a professional service in an area of photography were you have zero experience. Fashion photography especially with children is much harder than it looks. I would never charge a client for a type of photography where I have not already proven to deliver a high level of quality and service. I hope that you will have ample time to practice before a client shoot. If you had more experience in the industry, you would also know that models are never charged for photos taken during commercial shoots.



Well, we all need to start somewhere, and this is for a new start-up where the designer is a former boss of my wife, and she wants me to do the work. I have experience in portrait and sports photography, so it's not like I don't know anything about posing/lighting/etc. I also will not work for nothing - once you start doing that, then it becomes expected and I'm not going down that route.

Thanks for the viewpoint. That is why I posted here. Not being real familiar with commercial photography, I am hoping to get what is considered standard and normal, and what isn't.

[No Mas]

Based on what I've read, charging a flat fee based on what the client wants would probably be best. Getting into the commercial fee structures may be overkill for someone who isn't experienced or well versed in the business. But of course there is no harm in being compensated for your time. Because these are models and the client wishes to utilize the photos for commercial use, releases are definitely in order.

Are the models being paid? If not, copies of their photos should be given to them without charge for their work. The parents will also need to sign a "Model Release" to allow their child's image to be used commercially. The release must also explain exactly how the image(s) will be utilized.

In a nutshell, CYA. Get the paperwork in order, you don't want any issues later on.

Being in NYC I work with models often. Before I begin a session, releases are signed.

Good Luck

[sfaust]

As mentioned, there is a creative fee, usage, and production charges. The creative fee is generally based on the photographers demand, vision, reputation, complexity of the project, and time, etc). Usage is based on how the images are used in the industry. I.e., an image used in a full page ad in a well known consumer beauty magazine could bring in easily bring in $6K+ for the photographer. The same image used on a web site as a small product shot might only fetch $100. The production charges are the actual cost for the shoot, such as assistants, rentals, equipment, models, makeup, producer, etc.

As you can see, a typical 1 day photo shoot for a catalog or advertisement might only cost $7K to product it (creative and production fees, but could result in billing fees significantly higher depending on how the images are used. This is pretty much how the industry works. Journalism, editorial, and corporate are slightly different, but much of the same principals are the same. Retail such as portraits and weddings are an entirely different matter since the images are not used commercially, but are for personal use.

It sounds like your client is starting up with minimal capital, and thus looking to save any way they can. Most likely, the images will only be used on a web site, or local printed materials. If thats the case, much of this doesn't really apply. If they are well funded, and will be buying space for advertising, etc, they really should be willing to pay a reasonable rate for a photographers time.

What does escape me either way, is if they are serious about starting up a company, why would they hire a photographer with no experience to shoot this. These images can make or break them. We are constantly telling other photographers to hire experienced web designers and such, because that image is important enough that it could drive business to us, or turn them away with an ill designed website. If this designer creates great clothing, then has lackluster images to represent them to distribution outlets, ones that are used to seeing excellent clothing photography on a daily basis, its going to really hurt their chances.

If she is a friend, and trying to do this on the cheap, and wants you to do it, thats fine. But as a friend, I would also make her aware of the potential impact it will have on her dream. And if you don't feel confident that you can provide her with decent images comparable to those seen in the industry, I would offer to help her find someone that can at at rate that would fit into her budget.

As sspellman stated, shooting kids and trying to get a certain look or pose that is required to show the clothing well is much harder than shooting a great expressive portrait. Its harder for the photographer, and the kids, and the kids should have some experience as well to get decent results. I've shot kids for catalogs, and its hard work paying attention to the lighting to show the clothing well, capture it's true colors, have the clothing hanging and folding appropriately, capturing all the detail needed, all while directing the kids into poses that work, aren't static, and will sell the clothes. If you do shoot this, practice quite a bit before hand. Lighting is crucial, as is directing and paying attention to detail, keeping everything in line technically, interfacing with the client and assistants, all simultaneously.

Also make sure you have your licensing (rights, usage) in writing, you register the images for copyright, you get model releases signed by the parents, and you have something in writing spelling out exactly what is being delivered, who is responsible for what, cost, etc. Not having it in writing, and later finding out there was a misunderstanding can really ruin a personal friendship.

[sfaust]

I also forgot to mention. You are using kids 1 to 4 years old. If you need 4 models, book at least 6 or 7. Trust me, it will save you! When the kids act up, get cranky, etc, you need someone 'on deck' that is ready to take their place.

I remember my first time shooting kids. It was for an ad for a major company that made those Sesame Street branded baby carriers for mothers. We needed one image of a baby in the carrier, and another in a car seat. I was going to book 3 kids for the shoot, and the art director suggested we book 6. I thought he was nuts, but he had done this before, and it was his nickel.

Damn if we didn't end up using all 6 of them, and you can be sure I've done the same on every shoot since!

[mgrover]

Thanks Stephen for your insight. It is very much appreciated. You are correct that the designer is trying to start this up on the cheap - she is trying to get investors lined up, but hasn't been successful yet. I will make sure that we have more models lined up than we think we might need. She told me that she is advertising for models, but I don't know how much, if anything, she is planning on paying them.