Cheap Project Lighting Help Please

[Avalonthas]

My dad is always using his 580's and 420 flashes for his own stuff, and im doing a project for school where im taking lots of photographs of small products, so i need a lighting solution.

I have already built a product theatre (Medium sized wood box painted in bright white) to house the products, but I need an affordable lighting setup that will do the job.

All the stuff I will be shooting ranges for this project, and it includes watches and other jewlery, little diecast stockcars, gold and silver pens, stamps, computer mouse, and a whole bunch of other odds and ends. Thats why the project is a little complex because I need ONE lighting solution that is on a low budget that will be descent for all of those objects. I have equipment to soften the light if needed, so that doesnt have to be included.

I was hoping if anyone knew of anything I can pickup from Home Depot or Rona which are basically the only hardware stores in close distance to me. The smaller the better, I am looking to have 3 or 4 lights to cover each angle so there are no or little shadow. I would also prefer if they arent just plain lightbulbs where i have to construct my own setup. If there is anything that already has a plug and holder for a bulb and then maybe recommend some bright white bulbs or something. Any ideas? I will most likely be using my Pro1 for this project although I might be able to grab my dads 300D, although im planning on using the Pro1 more as I know how to use it best.

Goals:
Small
Ready To Go (Plug And Play) or a unit where i can place a special bulb in
White and Bright light
Cheap!!

Budget: Nothing in particular but im looking for the absolute cheapest solution.

Edit: This is not only a project based on the actual quality and technique of the photography but also the setups, which includes the theatre and lighting, etc, which is why i need it very cheap and practical for a student.

[robertwgross]

Normally, the solution for budget studio lighting is a quartz halogen work light. These are 500 watts each, and they come on a steel stand with a wire guard over the lamp head. They are cheap. I had to pay $12.95 for a single, or $19.95 for a double.

However, I'm not sure that this is a good solution for what you are trying to do, since you are trying to focus the light into a pretty tight area. It's going to get hot in there. At a minimum, you'll burn your fingers.

If they made lights like that, only smaller, then maybe it would work.

Quartz halogen has a light spectrum that is similar to an ordinary tungsten filament bulb, but it is a little different, so using a custom white balance would be a good idea.

---Bob Gross---

[Avalonthas]

Alright thanks alot. I am looking into some cheap Slave flash units off ebay and i might give them a try although they are still pretty expensive.

Im gonna take a trip to HD tommorow afternoon and check out what they have for Quartz Halogen.

[robertwgross]

Alright thanks alot. I am looking into some cheap Slave flash units off ebay and i might give them a try although they are still pretty expensive.

I'm not familiar with your camera, but watch out for compatibility issues.

Many people try to optically slave their external flash units from the built-in flash. That may or may not work, depending on how you do it. With some, the optical slaves will trigger from a camera's pre-flash pop and then not trigger from the main flash pop. On the other hand, some cameras have a good PC sync-out connector to run a "straight cable" to an external flash unit.

There are several issues that have to be worked out here.

Im gonna take a trip to HD tommorow afternoon and check out what they have for Quartz Halogen.

Home Depot is one place. I found mine at an auto parts chain store.

If they aren't any good for anything else, at least they are good for heating up an unheated studio. I'm not kidding. I have four lamps (so, 2000 watts total) in my studio, and it gets real warm there.

---Bob Gross---

[Tom Camilleri]

Normally, the solution for budget studio lighting is a quartz halogen work light. These are 500 watts each, and they come on a steel stand with a wire guard over the lamp head. They are cheap. I had to pay $12.95 for a single, or $19.95 for a double.

However, I'm not sure that this is a good solution for what you are trying to do, since you are trying to focus the light into a pretty tight area. It's going to get hot in there. At a minimum, you'll burn your fingers.

If they made lights like that, only smaller, then maybe it would work.

Quartz halogen has a light spectrum that is similar to an ordinary tungsten filament bulb, but it is a little different, so using a custom white balance would be a good idea.

---Bob Gross---

I checked my halogen work lights recently to seee if they could supplement some Tota lights I bought for a similar application. They looked very yellow compared to the FDN T bulbs (3200ºK) in the Tota lights. I purchsed some FDN bulbs online for 6.40 each, so for under $26.00 I converted two double work lights into 2000W of background illumination.

[Tom Camilleri]

You can buy 3200ºK tungsten bulbs online for much cheaper than in a photo store. The online places also usually have a nice listing of bulbs w/specifications, so you can find what you need even if you're not exactly sure when you start. 500W bulbs might be too hot for an enclosed theater which I assume you made of plywood or cardboard. I probably would have tried white paper walls on a structure made of furing strips, then you could place lights behind any of the the three walls, as well as behind the camera.

You should be able to find smaller wattage bulbs online and can prpbably get cheap fixtures for them at Home Depot. Jot down the specs as you surf and give the electrical department at HD a call. Someone will know if they have what you need. For bulbs, try the PEC online store. Cheapest I've found. Just got my first 4 bulbs from them today after a few days, and shippping was free. They have many types of photo bulbs. There's also a reasonable place in GA (forget the name now). Beware of online stores offering false bargains; they may be cheaper than a photo store but 3X more expensive than PEC, and may substitute a generic bulb (like a PEC bulb) for a GE bulk in their listing.

While you're at it, get Home Depot to set you up with dimmer switches so you can control the lighting ratio. Post some pics of your set up. It will give others ideas and you'll get better advice.

My dad is always using his 580's and 420 flashes for his own stuff, and im doing a project for school where im taking lots of photographs of small products, so i need a lighting solution.

I have already built a product theatre (Medium sized wood box painted in bright white) to house the products, but I need an affordable lighting setup that will do the job.

All the stuff I will be shooting ranges for this project, and it includes watches and other jewlery, little diecast stockcars, gold and silver pens, stamps, computer mouse, and a whole bunch of other odds and ends. Thats why the project is a little complex because I need ONE lighting solution that is on a low budget that will be descent for all of those objects. I have equipment to soften the light if needed, so that doesnt have to be included.

I was hoping if anyone knew of anything I can pickup from Home Depot or Rona which are basically the only hardware stores in close distance to me. The smaller the better, I am looking to have 3 or 4 lights to cover each angle so there are no or little shadow. I would also prefer if they arent just plain lightbulbs where i have to construct my own setup. If there is anything that already has a plug and holder for a bulb and then maybe recommend some bright white bulbs or something. Any ideas? I will most likely be using my Pro1 for this project although I might be able to grab my dads 300D, although im planning on using the Pro1 more as I know how to use it best.

Goals:
Small
Ready To Go (Plug And Play) or a unit where i can place a special bulb in
White and Bright light
Cheap!!

Budget: Nothing in particular but im looking for the absolute cheapest solution.

Edit: This is not only a project based on the actual quality and technique of the photography but also the setups, which includes the theatre and lighting, etc, which is why i need it very cheap and practical for a student.

[robertwgross]

While you're at it, get Home Depot to set you up with dimmer switches so you can control the lighting ratio.

The problem with using dimmer switches is that if you dim the light intensity down, you will also be changing the color temperature, so your white balance will change. This is OK only if you set the dimmer switches the way you need, and then perform a custom white balance, and then shoot the scene. If you change a dimmer control, then do the custom white balance again.

---Bob Gross---

[Tom Camilleri]

The problem with using dimmer switches is that if you dim the light intensity down, you will also be changing the color temperature, so your white balance will change. This is OK only if you set the dimmer switches the way you need, and then perform a custom white balance, and then shoot the scene. If you change a dimmer control, then do the custom white balance again.

---Bob Gross---


Thanks for pointing out, Bob. I'm in the process of setting up a studio area myself and planned to use dimmers. Maybe I still will since they can all be turned all the way up to get full temperature on all lights and they're easier on the bulbs when turning on and off frequently.

Upon reflection, it seems that when using two different temp lights the combined light might not even be of constant temperature throughout the illuminated area. I guess there is a close enough average for a custom white balance to work.

[robertwgross]

Upon reflection, it seems that when using two different temp lights the combined light might not even be of constant temperature throughout the illuminated area. I guess there is a close enough average for a custom white balance to work.

I think you will have problems with that.

If you have one bulb at 3500K hitting the subject from the left and another bulb at 3000K hitting it from the right, then there is no way to get an accurate custom white balance. You will end up with little yellow shadows on one side.

If you have to have two different light intensities from side to side, then consider using a 500 watt bulb on one side and a 250 watt bulb on the other side, with no dimmer controls. If you need to modify intensity from there, then simply move one light back.

---Bob Gross---

[Tom Camilleri]

I think you will have problems with that.

If you have one bulb at 3500K hitting the subject from the left and another bulb at 3000K hitting it from the right, then there is no way to get an accurate custom white balance. You will end up with little yellow shadows on one side.

If you have to have two different light intensities from side to side, then consider using a 500 watt bulb on one side and a 250 watt bulb on the other side, with no dimmer controls. If you need to modify intensity from there, then simply move one light back.

---Bob Gross---


Ahhhhh! Using two 250 watt bulbs in place of one 500, or moving lights closer or farther from the subject, is the way to go. The whole notion of light intensity ratios assumes that, for aesthetic reasons, uneven illumination is necessary. Instead of dimmers varying the amount of current reaching a set number of lights, each emitting light of a proportional temperature, one should opt for a greater number of independently switchable constant temperature lights.

In light of the yellow shadow reality, I need to call my electrician friend and tell him to forgoe the dimmers. I'll have him substitute surge dampers (to protect the bulbs) for dimmers. Thanks for your extremely helpful comments, which have saved me from a serious blunder.

Alas, the prospect of being able to vary the intensity, and view the effect instantly, of three or four fixed position lights from a switchbox on the wall, ultimnately proves to be "too good to be true."

[cdesperado]

I shoot products professionally and use specialized flourescents - I get much better, more even lighting (using custom-built screens for diffusion) than I ever got using tungsten and halogen lights, PLUS, I shoot without the power drain of a 500w or 1000w bulb and the HEAT!!!!

I use these same basic lights for shooting everything from rings, bracelets, to cars and motorcycles.

These lights are a mere 30W (2100 lumens), and believe me, they are awesome.

[Tom Camilleri]

I shoot products professionally and use specialized flourescents - I get much better, more even lighting (using custom-built screens for diffusion) than I ever got using tungsten and halogen lights, PLUS, I shoot without the power drain of a 500w or 1000w bulb and the HEAT!!!!

I use these same basic lights for shooting everything from rings, bracelets, to cars and motorcycles.

These lights are a mere 30W (2100 lumens), and believe me, they are awesome.


Interesting. Are they super-expensive? What's the temperature of the light? I assume color is the only issue as far as type of lights goes, and that it can always be corrected for with a custom white balance. This raises the question as to why hot lights are even still used...

[cdesperado]

I guess that depends on how you define expensive. The bulbs are about $50 each, but are extremely fragile. They do lean heavily towards the blue spectrum (ie, they have a very high Kelvin rating; not a normal "warm" light).

One thing I should point out, "normal" flourescent lights are not suitable for serious photography (like the stuff you get at Home Depot). Due to the nature of how flourescent lights work (UV light is discharged in a gas-filled tube), the color spectra can be very choppy (ie, rather than a smooth curve from left to right (like a hilltop), you have a series of mountains and valleys.) Using these lights incorrectly will result in a significant loss of color in your images, particularly with deep reds, light greens, yellows, and light cyans.

Hot lights are used because they are cheap and practical. Further, they are very easy to work with and require no "custom" set-up really. If I do use a hot light indoors (sometimes I have to), I will bring a small portable fan (usually on a 4 foot stand) - it helps cool the room and an added bonus of creating a little movement in the models hair if I point it in her direction.

[Livingston]

For what it's worth, I also take photos of small objects (for our store). I finally settled in on making a light box and, after thinking through all sorts of options, finally settled on a simple solution that I can break down for storage when not in use. (We only photograph products twice a year).

Without going into details, I bought 1/2" PVC and some 3-way 90-degree corner connectors. I cut the PVC into 18" lengths (other lengths will do) and made a cube of PVC. From here you can drape any kind of relatively opaque cloth (I used muslin) over the box and then shine the light through the sides.

For lighting I bought simple lamps with metal hoods from a local hardware store (I use the ones with the spring clamp so I can set the lights up anywhere) and 100-watt equivalent compact florescent bulbs.

I drape background paper inside the box and set the items on the paper.

All of my reflection problems are gone.

For under $50 I now have a versitle light box that the cats love to sit in when not in use.

The problem I had with halogen and other lights was 1) they were expensive, and 2) they are hot (like in, to the touch).

Livingston

[Livingston]

I shoot products professionally and use specialized flourescents - I get much better, more even lighting (using custom-built screens for diffusion) than I ever got using tungsten and halogen lights, PLUS, I shoot without the power drain of a 500w or 1000w bulb and the HEAT!!!!

I use these same basic lights for shooting everything from rings, bracelets, to cars and motorcycles.

These lights are a mere 30W (2100 lumens), and believe me, they are awesome.

Do you use the 100 watt equivalent daylight compact florescents that are generally available or are there ones specific for photos?