View Full Version : advice on aerial photos
avsfan
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 17:07
I am an amateur photog. I have the opportunity to go up in a helicopter to take some aerial photos of the golf course where I work. I am seeking any advice or tips anyone might care to offer.
I have a Digital Rebel. I have 3 lens choices: EF-S 18-55, EF-S 17-85 f/4-5.6, EF 70-200 f/4.0. Since I am an amateur I shoot pretty much in full automatic mode.
The helicopter will be able to stop and hover for me for some of my shots, but not necessarily all of them. I may need to shoot some while on the move. I am also not sure how high above the ground we will be.
One concern I have is because we will not always be holding still is the pics coming out fuzzy or blurry due to the motion.
Has anyone had any experience with shots like this?
Any advice on anything related appreciated.
Thanks
RockOne
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 17:20
Use a high shutter speed to help eliminate camera shake..and dont touch the frame of the aircraft witht the lens etc as this increases vibration. Another factor that increases motion blur is focal length..it will be easier to keep the wide lenses held still than the tele. It's not impossible with the tel..just harder :-) !
Another thing to watch for is reflections in the cockpit glass (unlerss they are taking the door off for you ;-) ).
Enjoy the flight. !
FlyingPete
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 17:25
Biggest hassel I have had with this is vibration, esspecially in a smaller chopper (like the little 2 seater jobs).
Since I assume you are shooting in the day time, you can you nice fast shutter speeds, keep it several times above you focal length, in fact try and keep it above 1/1000s.
As this is a rarer oportunity I would shhot RAW, it is not easier to retake images, and RAW will give you more options to correct any errors.
As for lenses, that depends on how high and how big the area is, I would start with the 17-85 for wide shots, I don't see any point in the 18-55, the 70-200 would be good for zooming in on anything interesting while you are there!
If it is a little bubble two seater, you usually don't have to worry about glass being in the way, as they are open on the sides, in these circumstances, I am too scared to do a lens change!
tim
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 17:39
There's an excellent example here (http://www.topwalls.com/placennature/antenna/antenna1024.jpg) ;)
PhotosGuy
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 19:15
Ask the pilot to take the door off. Wear a warm coat. Remember, you'll probably be focusing at infinity, so you won't have to bump the ISO up to get a lot of DOF.
Re: "I am also not sure how high above the ground we will be." Probably no lower than 500' You probably will want to go higher if you're doing "overall" shots.
Consider not shooting between 11AM-1PM to get some defining shadows on the landscape.
Re: "Biggest hassel I have had with this is vibration," It's best to keep your lenses in a pocket, not in a bag on the floor (which the pilot probably won't let you do anyway). Choppers have very high frequency vibrations that will loosen screws, etc.
Citizensmith
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 19:29
There's an excellent example here (http://www.topwalls.com/placennature/antenna/antenna1024.jpg) ;)
Oh ha ha. :)
FlyingPete
30th of March 2005 (Wed), 19:36
There's an excellent example here (http://www.topwalls.com/placennature/antenna/antenna1024.jpg) ;)
I have to say I was tempted, nice to see someone rose to the challenge :lol:
lancea
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 02:31
Many years ago when I was slim and fit :cry: I took quite a few photos from a small chopper (Hughes 300 I think) to document our erection of a mast in one of our national parks. I was using a Minolta XD7 with the standard 50mm lens. No problems whatsoever. I didn't do anything special and shot through the bubble. Sitting next to the pilot probably helped because the seat would give some isolation from the vibration. I looked at the prints recently and they are plenty sharp. So I wouldn't worry too much unless you're using telephotos when you'll have to be careful to use the highest speed possible.
One thing to be a little wary of is that it's possible to get a bit queezy if you are looking through the camera while the chopper (or plan) is moving around (especially with a telephoto). Have fun!
Tom Reid
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 02:31
Several important things for aerial photography in helicopters...
1. As noted above, shutter speed. Minimum shutter speed of 2X lens length, the higher the better.
2. Set exposure levels when on the ground. Point camera at the grass on the course and set the exposure...assuming you are using manual mode.
3. If it's a bumpy day wait.
4. 500' above ground is generally a good height. This may break rules (minimum height aircraft can be over towns) so ensure you discuss this with the pilot in advance so he may contact the authorities prior to the big day!!
5. Speed of the helicopter is most important. 40-60 mph works best for for reducing vibrations and giving you a cleaner shot. Anything below 20 mph and the vibrations increase.
fdi
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 05:29
If you dont have an L-IS lens you might be able to rent one. I can't justify their purchase, but I don't have any problem with $15 for a weekend.
BearSummer
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 05:58
Hi Avsfan,
I have seen this question asked several times on different forums and the piece of advice that stuck in my mind the most was....
If you are shooting with the door open make sure that you and the people on the ground are safe. If you have a neckstrap make sure that you use it, helicopters are not the most stable of platforms and you dont want to lose the camera out the doorway. However the most important thing not to lose out the door is you. Make sure that you are safely belted in and that the belt works properly. Be aware that the release for the buckle is just the right shape to get snagged by a camera neckstrap as you lift the camera from your lap to your eye. The photographer who managed to release his belt with his cameras neck strap now allways uses a piece of gaffer tape across the belt buckle to stop it accidently opening. Not to much to prevent you opening it in an emergency but enough to stop you adding an extra bunker to the course.
Best wishes and hope you have fun
BearSummer
Simon Spiers
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 12:36
If your photographing through a window, don't use a Polarising filter!!!!
PhotosGuy
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 17:46
...enough to stop you adding an extra bunker to the course. I wonder what the grounds fee would be for that?
Pyromaniac
31st of March 2005 (Thu), 18:10
The minimum safe operating altitudes for aircraft are specified in FAR part 91.119. Paragraph (d) covers helicopters, and basicaly as long as it doesn't pose a hazard to anyone/anything on the ground helicoppters can operate as low as they want to. Which is why helicopters are used in urban area's for aerial shots. generaly I prefer a fixed wing like the Cessna 172. Here are a couiple of air to air shots I did a couple of years ago. These are scans of 35mm so the quality isn't that great. I used a 75-300mm for them, no IS. I don't recall the ISO shutter or apature anymore.
http://actionstills.com/gallery/gallery_3/023_21A.JPG
http://actionstills.com/gallery/gallery_3/022_20A.JPG
Jorgo
1st of April 2005 (Fri), 15:11
If you ARE shooting through glass, then minimise reflections:
Ask the pilot if you can clean the window with a soft clean cloth. Inside and out.
Cover the big white CANON logo with black tape.
Wear Dark or Black clothes, and thin black leather gloves.
Don't wear a big shiny ROLEX watch - it will reflect nicely.
Hold the camera as close to the glass as possible - but don't touch.
Talk to the pilot about your needs BEFORE the flight, and listen for his suggestions.
Take lots of photos, be safe, and have fun.
www.actionairimages.com
boone
1st of April 2005 (Fri), 17:26
I took my Digital Rebel along on a short Cessna hop last fall and photographed out the window. I wasn't quite prepared for how windy it was (from the airspeed). I can imagine it will be different in a copter, but the downdraft is probably significant. I'd stick with one lens to avoid changing them out while airborne.
shaun3000
2nd of April 2005 (Sat), 00:55
You actually WOULD want to use a polarizing filter. Many larger aircraft have polarized windows but that's usually limited to the cockpit or just the front windows. In that case you WOULDN'T want to use one but chances are you'll be shooting out of a non-polarized side window so a polarizing filter wouldn't hurt.
PhotosGuy
2nd of April 2005 (Sat), 06:42
I repeat, "Ask the pilot to take the door off." if it can be done with the airframe you will use.
If you have to shoot through the plastic window, then plan on having an interesting experience, but don't plan on needle sharp pics.
vBulletin® v3.6.12, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.