Does the average g3 owner use a gray card?

[slowboy]

And if so why? and what are some good examples of times to use one?

[TD27]

Slowboy, it took me a moment to understand what you were asking about using "a gray card". I think that the answer to your question about whether "average" users use one is a most resounding "no". I further suspect that a majority of users don't even know what a gray card is.

Now, what I think you're talking about is the old 18% gray card that was often used for determining correct exposure in tricky lighting conditions. The card would be held up near the subject and a spot meter used to read the light values from it.

I don't even own a gray card these days. In most cases I'm very pleased with the center-weighted exposure the G3 gives, and on very rare occasions I have used the spot meter to get my exposures. The beauty of the G3 (or any digital for that matter) is the ability to instantly see your result and to make corrections if necessary for the next shot(s).

What I do use often however, is a white sheet of paper in order to set custom color balance when in mixed lighting (tungsten, fluourescent, daylight, etc.) conditions. I find that very handy.

Are YOU using a gray card to help with exposures? What conditions prompt you to do so?

[jscher2000]

You've got to read Tony Spadaro's stuff on this:

http://home.nc.rr.com/tspadaro/Accessorizing.html#greycard

Follow the link to Grey Card Walk. Wild article.

[dagoch]

I *have* been using a gray card with the G3 because I am trying to gauge how the images on the G3 LCD translate to my computer monitor. My images definitely appear brighter on the camera's LCD than they do on my monitor. It seems that in order to get an image that is accurately exposed on my computer, it needs to appear slightly overexposed (roughly 1 stop) on the camera's screen.

My monitor is calibrated (using Adobe Gamma) and works great with images from my scanner. Is there any way to adjust the camera's display (I'm already using the lower brightness setting) ? Or is there some way to get a calibrated color profile for this camera?

I'd rather not have to use raw images if I don't need to -- I am perfectly happy with the superfine JPEGs (except for the exposure issue), and don't need the extra conversion step.\

Any suggestions?

[PacAce]

dagoch wrote:
I *have* been using a gray card with the G3 because I am trying to gauge how the images on the G3 LCD translate to my computer monitor. My images definitely appear brighter on the camera's LCD than they do on my monitor. It seems that in order to get an image that is accurately exposed on my computer, it needs to appear slightly overexposed (roughly 1 stop) on the camera's screen.


I've also experienced the same effect on my computer CRT monitor when working with my digital camcorder. It seems like the CRT does not have the same contrast and brightness range as the camera LCD does. This might be something that's inherent with most, if not all, CRT monitors. I've been contemplating switching to, or adding, an LCD monitor to get an image that more closely matches the view on the LCD monitor of the camera.

[dagoch]

PacAce wrote:
I've also experienced the same effect on my computer CRT monitor when working with my digital camcorder. It seems like the CRT does not have the same contrast and brightness range as the camera LCD does. This might be something that's inherent with most, if not all, CRT monitors. I've been contemplating switching to, or adding, an LCD monitor to get an image that more closely matches the view on the LCD monitor of the camera.



That seems to be a backwards way to do things: it is difficult to maintain a fully color-calibrated workflow with an LCD monitor. I've got a calibrated color profile for my monitor, as well as my scanner and printer, so I can reliably predict what colors will look like all the way through the process. Right now, the camera is a wildcard. Is there any way to calibrate the camera to fit into my workflow?

thanks.