Flashes killing digital cameras??

[scarroll27]

Does anyone here use non Canon flashes on the camera? I have a 420 speedlite but don't want to use it. It is too automatic for me. I really don't like my equipment to think for me. I have another flash(can't remember the name of it offhand) but have heard horror stories about flashes shorting out digital cameras. What do you all think?

[KevC]

Just make sure it's compatible, have a voltmeter ready :)

The one that everyone's raving about is the Sigma EF500DG Super. Lotsa controls, almost the same featureset as the 550EX but at half the price...

[HJMinard]

I've been very happy with the only flash I've used with a digital SLR ... my Sigma EF 500 Super. It has fully manual settings as well as E-TTL.

Canon EX series ... Sigma 500 series ... some of the Metz flashes and others work just fine with digital cameras. There are non-compatible flashes that can cause damage ... perhaps if you list yours (your other one) someone can confirm whether it's compatible.

[JAZZ D.P.G.]

I use the 550, and I'm looking for a 420 as a slave.

So if it bothers you that much, I'll be glad to help you out. I'll provide a good home for your flash.

Seriously though, flash units do have their place in photography. ETTL and automatic controls are used the same as the Auto mode on your camera. If you want control of the flash, put a little time into studying the operation and practicing. Flash sometimes is a necessary evil, and at other times will provide the best possible shot.

Using other manufacturers gear is always risky, if not properly researched.

Same issue though. Practice, practice, practice.

[Titus213]

If you are using an older flash I would highly recommend checking the trigger voltage - I believe Canon says max is 6.0volts. Over that is your option but damage may result. Here is a link to check:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

[DocFrankenstein]

I use full manual vivitar 285 with great results on my Drebel

I would advise against trusting a voltmeter to measure peak voltage. An oscillograph would be much more reliable.

Cheers

[intechpcx]

Does anyone here use non Canon flashes on the camera? I have a 420 speedlite but don't want to use it. It is too automatic for me. I really don't like my equipment to think for me. I have another flash(can't remember the name of it offhand) but have heard horror stories about flashes shorting out digital cameras. What do you all think?

I use my Sunpak 433D with my DReb and I haven't encountered any problems. I hadn't even heard of this potential to damage the camera until you mentioned it here. The flash unit itself has the dedicated hot-shoe for my old AE-1 but is not TTL so I don't know if that matters at all. It works great other than the need for me to constantly use it in manual mode.

[Titus213]

I use my Sunpak 433D with my DReb and I haven't encountered any problems. I hadn't even heard of this potential to damage the camera until you mentioned it here. The flash unit itself has the dedicated hot-shoe for my old AE-1 but is not TTL so I don't know if that matters at all. It works great other than the need for me to constantly use it in manual mode.

Trigger voltage on the 433D can vary from 6.4 volt to 14.0 volt. Damage can be cumulative as I understand it. I have a Sunpak 555 and won't use it on my 300D and it's rated at just under 7.0 volts.

[scarroll27]

Okay, I found my flash. It is a Vivitar 283. I don't have a voltmeter or oscillograph... so I will wait to put it on my camera. Thanks for all the info! You guys (and gals) are great.

[dkord]

In the 20D manual, page 98 it says.- Also, do not connect to the camera's PC terminal any flash units requiring 250 volts or more.
- Do not attach a high-voltage flash unit on the camera's hot shoe.It might not work.

I wonder why it doesn't say it might damage your camera? I wonder if they actually installed something akin to a circut breaker in the hotshot circuitry?

[Bruce Foreman]

Okay, I found my flash. It is a Vivitar 283. I don't have a voltmeter or oscillograph... so I will wait to put it on my camera. Thanks for all the info! You guys (and gals) are great.

Older 283's definitely have too high a trigger voltage. As far as more recently manufactured 283's that may be safer, I have no idea how "new" they have to be to be in the "safe" area.

Try to find an electronic repair shop that can test the trigger voltage off yours. Anything over 6 volts can "trash" the synch circuits in your DRebel.

Another approach would be to use the Wein "Safe-Sync" between the hot shoe and the Vivitar 283 to "isolate" the camera from the Vivitar 283's trigger circuit.

One approach I have used is to slave other flash gear and use a dedicated unit in the DRebel hotshoe but on manual and with the flash swivelled in another direction. The flash from the dedicated unit in manual should "trigger" the slaved Vivitar in perfect synchronization. I often use this method to trip studio flash as well as older Vivitar units.

Bruce Foreman

[Titus213]

There are some instructions on the internet for checking your trigger voltage. It's not a difficult thing to do as it is just the voltage going between the center post and rail on your FLASH units hotshoe attachment. I measured my Sunpak 555 with an old analog unit and then again with a Fluke digital. Not difficult and they both gave the same reading (once I figured out the scale on my old analog meter). I also checked the trigger voltage on the Alien Bee 400 which is as they advertise, well under 6.0 volts.

You could play it safe and install a Wein Safe-sync between your flash and your camera. I believe they sell for under $50 and will keep trigger voltage at 6.0 volts.

And Yes, the voltage issues are totally different with the PC terminals rather than the hotshoe. Unfortunately the 300D doesn't have a PC terminal for the flash.

[robertwgross]

I would advise against trusting a voltmeter to measure peak voltage. An oscillograph would be much more reliable.

Doc, it's DC, not AC, so a voltmeter works fine.

---Bob Gross---

[DocFrankenstein]

Doc, it's DC, not AC, so a voltmeter works fine.

---Bob Gross---
Yeah, but a pulse that short... the voltmeter may not give you the actual peak value. Right?

[quadphoto]

I use a Metz 45 CT4 on my 300D Via a Wein Safe Sync which stabilizes the trigger voltage to 3 volts
without any problems. Quadphoto

[robertwgross]

I wonder why it doesn't say it might damage your camera? I wonder if they actually installed something akin to a circut breaker in the hotshot circuitry?

Circuit breakers operate on a high current situation. What we are talking about with non-Canon flash units is a potential high voltage situation. Two different things.

---Bob Gross---

[robertwgross]

Yeah, but a pulse that short... the voltmeter may not give you the actual peak value. Right?

No, Doc. This is a static DC voltage, not a pulse.

If you apply a standard high-impedance voltmeter to the two conductors of the flash trigger, you will see a steady DC voltage. Assuming that you don't short out the trigger, which causes the flash to trigger, then the voltage will stay there. Now, if you suddenly apply a low-impedance short across the trigger, which is what the low voltage transistor circuit at the camera hot shoe does, then that triggers the flash. There, you might draw an arc.

So, no pulses. Straight DC only.

---Bob Gross---

[Titus213]

Yeah, but a pulse that short... the voltmeter may not give you the actual peak value. Right?

Doc,
Trigger voltage is constant thru the unit. It is not the voltage seen when the flash trips but rather the voltage used to signal the flash to trip. I don't know much about scopes but one may be useful to catch a spike in the trigger voltage butI don't even know if that's much of a concern. The three flashes I've tested were rock steady on the trigger voltage. And according to this site:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

your 285 could be marginal on that voltage...