Some advice about Indoor Arena sports (MotoX)...

[scermat]

Hi,

hope this is the correct section to post this in. I wasn't sure if it should go in sports or motorsport but i think this fits more here.

anyway, there is a MotoX kind of event happening here and i'd like to be able to take some decent shots (if at all possible!). the main problem is i have never been to shoot in similar conditions (and there's not a lot where i can practice) so i'm unsure if my gear is good enough to at least get something decent out of it. i reckon we will be a bit far away from the action so i guess the 100-400 is ideal for the range, however at 4.5-5.6 it's pretty darn slow. i guess a 70-200 2.8 IS would've been ideal but i dont have the budget for purchasing a lens at the moment. flash is allowed to be used but i'm not sure if it would be any good? i was thinking maybe getting the better beamer but i'm not sure if it will be of any help in cases like these?

Thanks for any advice,

Matt

[mattograph]

Hello Matt

First question -- are you 100% certain that you will be able to get your gear in? Is this an indoor or outdoor event?

If its indoor, this is a huge concern, especially with big gray lenses. I have been turned away on several occasions with my big gear, even when the ticket expressly states photography is allowed.

[scermat]

it's indoor but i should be ok as i asked. there's actually a sort of competition being held with a few local photography clubs to get allowed in specifically to shoot so i'm mostly seeing if its worth having a go at that with the gear i got. otherwise i'll probably just go to enjoy the show. :) Thanks

[mattograph]

Cool.

Put the 100-400 on the 40D, crank the ISO to 3200, and let it rip. Flash will likely be useless, as you'll need to shoot at a higher shutter speed than the 1/250 that you sync speeds will allow, and the ambient will most likely be good enough to cause burn in blur after the strobe fires.

If you shoot RAW, don't be afraid to underexpose a little to get every little bit of shutter speed out of the shot. Stay on center point focus, and pan when you can -- even at the higher shutter speeds, it can help.

Good luck!

[DC Fan]

Supercross in a well-lighted indoor stadum. Lens was a 70-300mm IS.

http://www.fansview.com/racing/02282009a1131.jpg

Camera Model: Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 170.0mm
Exposure Time: 0.0040 s (1/250)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 800
White Balance: Manual
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)

http://www.fansview.com/racing/02282009b1097.jpg

Camera Model: Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 160.0mm
CCD Width: 4.58mm
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 1600
White Balance: Manual
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: program (Auto)

In the first image, the bike was closer and there was less haze in the air. In the second image, a few hours' racing and fireworks led to the haze and less contrast.

Otherwise, the camera and lens combination worked very well all night at this event.

Sometimes, the best way to find how equipment will work is to take it to an event and use it.

[scermat]

Thanks for the info guys! greatly appreciated! i didnt have any idea what sort of light there is in such events as we dont get them often here (this is the first time they're bringing over something like this) but it seems like there should be enough to even use the 100-400 without flash. :)

Thanks!!