View Full Version : Snowboarding Nose grab CC
EastCoastEnvy
6th of March 2009 (Fri), 20:10
Let me know what you guys think of this picture.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww128/EastCoastNV/1-2.jpg
mikeassk
6th of March 2009 (Fri), 20:23
To be honest it is pretty blurry.
If you were going for a pan shot its almost there.
If it were a little sharper it would be a pretty cool capture.
EastCoastEnvy
6th of March 2009 (Fri), 20:26
yeah i was going for the pan. how shud i make it sharper?
rdompor
6th of March 2009 (Fri), 20:46
I think that you missed focus here since the trees aren't too blurred. If camera shake was the issue, I think the trees would have been more blurred than they are.
Work on your framing and background selection. Before I even got to the subject, I was already put off by the distracting background. If the background was OOF and blurred (as was intended) and the rider in focus, the shot might work. But his board is cut off, and the composition is a bit strange and doesn't work to enhance the photo here (even though you used the rule of thirds). I don't normally shoot board sports, but after reading a bit on here I think that the preferred shot is of the rider in the environment he's in rather than just a close up shot.
It looks like you're trying to use some creative elements here with your composition, technique, and timing. Just keep practicing to put it all together.
McBride61
6th of March 2009 (Fri), 23:58
Also it would be awesome to see a take off or landing point.
mikeassk
7th of March 2009 (Sat), 10:45
yeah i was going for the pan. how shud i make it sharper?
To get the rider sharper make sure if you are using AI servo if you are using auto focus (which you do NOT have to if your sure of where the frame will take place) because you want to track the subject. Make sure your selected focus point stays on the subject.
Get a little further back or pull the zoom back a bit. The closer you are the harder it will be to freeze the subject and blur the background while hand holding the camera. The reason is that when you are panning a subject that is 50' away or 10' will move across X amount of pixels at a given speed and that X amount is more Visible in the closer subject.
To compensate for closer subjects( or subjects within a high focal range like you have here) you must up your shutter speed or intensively track your subject with a high precision pan. It is not easy. It is easier with a tri/monopod.
I dont know what your settings were but try to set the shutter to around 1/100th-1/200th and if you can get the F stop to between 8 and 16 or smaller you will increase your DOF ( depth of field) so you will target a larger area of focus for the subject to fall into.
Use your highest frame rate as alot as panning is just luck with skill involved.
Good luck.
Sauk
7th of March 2009 (Sat), 11:13
To blurry but I love the concept!
I think a nice wide angle of the shot would be even better.
ryan148
13th of March 2009 (Fri), 22:53
1/200th is way to slow to stop action unless you are using a strobe. boost that shutter speed kid, the faster the better for action.
shot is money claiming it all day, so sick.
and the rider has some steez, thats what its all about.
Thomas G
14th of March 2009 (Sat), 02:17
I see in the exif that you shot at 1/200 you need to hit at least 1/600 with out the strobes. Faster is better in this case and shot AI servo with center point.
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