Need star effect filter opinion

[backblast]

I'm thinking of getting a star effect filter.

The Hoya 8pt 77mm or the Tiffen 8pt 77mm rotating star effect filter.

The Hoya filter is about $54
The Tiffen rotating filter is about $142

Does anyone have any experience with either of these?

The option to dial the star in is nice, but $142 is kinda hard to swallow, but I don't want to purchase the Hoya and then wish I got the Tiffen instead.

How does the saying go "the poor man pays twice." I'm getting tired of doing that.

Thanks

[sheawyatt]

Depending on what you're shooting, you can create an excellent star effect without any sort of filter. Simply stop down your lens somewhat and you will see the starburst pattern around any bright sources of light.

I hate to link to the site, but here is an ok write up on the effect:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/sunstars.htm

If that's what you're looking for, you'll have just saved yourself a lot of money.

[Peacefield]

Though certainly lessor quality, I use Cokin's 8-star. I use it sparingly and typically only in dark situations as I feel that it brings a softness to the rest of the image, but I suppose all star filters do to some extent.

[ROCKFISHER]

Hi mate,i dont know whether this is any use,but there is a plugin filter available for photoshop from "The Filter Factory"....it installs lots of filters,some rubbish junk but some good effects...one is called starmaker and it is good,,i have used it a few times.
I have had this set of plugins since PS7 and cant remember where i got it from but i think it was free.I have it installed on CS4 and it works.

Pete

[René Damkot]

I'd guess the Hoya is a screw on filter? In that case, couldn't you rotate the stars by just unscrewing it a bit?

IMO, for "effect" filters, quality isn't that important, since they will screw up IQ regardless :p

[PhotosGuy]

since they will screw up IQ regardless They will. It depends on what you want to shoot & the effect you're trying to get, so why not try a piece of aluminum window screen, or a piece of glass & make grid lines with a glass cutter & see how you like the effect? Have some fun with it.

These were taken with an old 1SQ Crostar filter.
The official Dream Cruise - Saturday (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=554646)

[backblast]

sheawyatt - thanks for the info. I already do some starburst with the lenses. I use a low iso and maintain a sweet spot and ensure there is a sufficient light source and it comes out pretty good. I'm looking for better control, if there is any.

Peacefield - I do have the conkin set up and did consider theirs, but the results I saw from them was too much effect. There might be something else from them that is not as drastic, but I have not seen it.

ROCKFISHER - Unfortunately, all I have is PS elements. Even that I don't use very much, so.....

René Damkot & PhotosGuy seeing as how I am after the star effect, utter sharpness is not the main concern, focus is. It's the dramatic effect of controlled starburst is what I would like to get, such as twilight and evening shots with even some of the soft lights bursting just a little. I would like to get some control.

Here is a photo that I normally can get, but a good portion of the time, I am at the mercy of the light source and I would like to have more control.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3536/3277730183_d791cba6f2_o.jpg

[PhotosGuy]

I am at the mercy of the light source and I would like to have more control. Try a series of shots at all the f-stops between wide open & f/32 & see what you like best.

[backblast]

Will have to give that a try.

Thanks

[SYS]

...a piece of glass & make grid lines with a glass cutter & see how you like the effect? Have some fun with it.

These were taken with an old 1SQ Crostar filter.
The official Dream Cruise - Saturday (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=554646)

I liked #7 the best! :D

I'm interested in taking up on your idea of making grids on a piece of glass, but in your opinion what kind of grid do you think works the best, i.e. how many cm's apart from one grid line to another, etc.? I ask this because I don't want to do a lot of trial and error for obvious reasons!!

[backblast]

or a piece of glass & make grid lines with a glass cutter & see how you like the effect? Have some fun with it.

These were taken with an old 1SQ Crostar filter.
The official Dream Cruise - Saturday (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=554646)

I like #7 also.

How many cuts did you make in the glass?

[Shane W]

Cokin and just hold it in front of lens works great! Look these for an example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shanewyatt/page4/

[ben_r_]

I use the B+W version. I think its a bit cheaper... Check B&H.

[backblast]

Shane W - the Conkin is too much burst for my taste, I'm looking for something with much narrower bursts.

Ben_r_ - how do you like the B&W? I've had really good results with Hoya, but if another works equally well, it's worth a try.

[PhotosGuy]

I'm interested in taking up on your idea of making grids on a piece of glass, but in your opinion what kind of grid do you think works the best, i.e. how many cm's apart from one grid line to another, etc.? This is the filter I used, so think mm instead of cm. It's going to be a combination of the focal length you use, the distance the filter is from the lens, & your f-stop.

349250
I ask this because I don't want to do a lot of trial and error for obvious reasons!! BUT I suggest that you do do some "trial and error". Maybe you'll learn something useful?
I'd start with just one "X" on the glass & see what the results are. Then maybe add a few more.
And don't forget to try the aluminum window screen, too.

[SYS]

This is the filter I used, so think mm instead of cm. It's going to be a combination of the focal length you use, the distance the filter is from the lens, & your f-stop.

BUT I suggest that you do do some "trial and error". Maybe you'll learn something useful? I'd start with just one "X" on the glass & see what the results are. Then maybe add a few more.

And don't forget to try the aluminum window screen, too.

Thanks, Frank, for the explanation and the photo of the filter, too! From your explanation, I gather that you don't screw on the filter but hand hold a certain distance from the lens?

[ben_r_]

Shane W - the Conkin is too much burst for my taste, I'm looking for something with much narrower bursts.

Ben_r_ - how do you like the B&W? I've had really good results with Hoya, but if another works equally well, it's worth a try.
I love it! But then all my filters are B+W so I really dont have anything else to compare it to...

[backblast]

PhotosGuy - looks to be scored just enough to scratch the surface, correct?

Ben_r_ - I'll have to give B&W a serious look.

Thanks everyone!

[PhotosGuy]

I gather that you don't screw on the filter but hand hold a certain distance from the lens? No. They're made to be screwed, but for the cruise, I used it on the 85mm f/1.8 so I taped it to the lens hood. looks to be scored just enough to scratch the surface, correct? Yes, they aren't very deep at all. You might be able to use a piece of good, flat, plastic & scratch it with a pin head, but I haven't tried that.

[SYS]

Well, I gave a DIY sunburst filter a try yesterday, and here are some observations...

1) I used a clear plastic sheet for the experiment, and the IQ suffered a bit but perhaps not too undesirable as it had a softening effect, so depends on what kind of images one wants to create... I haven't done with a glass yet, so I can't give you a comparative info. I'll try it with a glass next, probably after the weekend, though...

2) I thought I made the grids pretty small, but the results indicate that I should have etched them tighter than I did...

3) Anything other than using the grid with the lens wide open (f/2.8 on my 24-70), the resulting images had grids showing, of course narrower the more prominent... I only had the time to experiment with various aperture and the distance between the lens and the filter, so I didn't get to play with different focal length to know whether and how much that would have affected the outcome....

Any thoughts on this?

Here's one example from a failed attempt (perhaps not an ideal application of such a filter, but the softening effect can be put to use in certain cases...):

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3594/3354263834_aa77da95ed_o.jpg

[backblast]

SYS - actually, that softening effect doesn't look bad at all. Thanks for the information.

[SYS]

SYS - actually, that softening effect doesn't look bad at all. Thanks for the information.

Yes, that was what I meant. The "star effect" failed but the softening effect could see some use...

I'm in fact in the process of re-making the plastic filter by simply making the grids tighter. If that doesn't do it, then I'm going to try with a glass that's just been sitting around waiting for someone to break. :)

[PhotosGuy]

Any thoughts on this? I think you need to use a source that's more of a point, like a street light at a distance. This is a test I did for a class using aluminum screen.

349599

This is with three crosstar filters:

349600

[SYS]

I think you need to use a source that's more of a point, like a street light at a distance.

You mean something like these?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3443/3354671947_6b9e5a2bd4_o.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3449/3354689149_68241fd472_o.jpg

[backblast]

PhotosGuy - 2SQ is what I am after.

Pardon my ignorance, but what does 2SQ represent?

[PhotosGuy]

You mean something like these? Yes! 2SQ is what I am after. The grid lines are about 1/16" apart on that one. what does 2SQ represent? DamifIKnow? Maybe 2 = twice the distance between them as the 1SQ. SQ = squares. P = only parallel lines.

[SYS]

Yes! The grid lines are about 1/16" apart on that one.

Thanks, Frank! FYI, the latest two images of the stores at night above were with my second grid that were done just about 1/16" apart...

EDIT:

Just posted how I made one here: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=662153 if interested...

[backblast]

Wow guys, thanks so much for your info and leg work.

This is what makes this place a great place!

Thanks!!

[PhotosGuy]

Just posted how I made one here: Good job! And it saved me doing it! :D
I doubt that I could have made the grid lines as well as you did, too.

[SYS]

Good job! And it saved me doing it! :D
I doubt that I could have made the grid lines as well as you did, too.

Making the grid lines were the worst part!! The repetitive task was sooooo boring that at one point I lost my concentration and ran the box cutter several lines over. Had to do another one but this time with the fullest attention and focus... :)

[SteveInNZ]

The astrophotography guys get a nice 4 point star by putting a single wire cross in front of the lens*. It also serves as a focusing aid because you'll see more than one spike either side of focus with point source of light (ie. a star). I don't know how it will go with extended objects like street lights, etc. Could be worth a try.

*The refractor users need to add a cross. The Newtonian reflector users get the same effect from the secondary mirror support. Consequently, they don't want the spikes and go to some lengths to get rid of the effect. You just can't win.

Steve.

[PhotosGuy]

*The refractor users need to add a cross. The Newtonian reflector users get the same effect from the secondary mirror support. Consequently, they don't want the spikes and go to some lengths to get rid of the effect. You just can't win.
"Do I, or don't I?"
- Unknown Praying Mantis