paintball practice

[drumebskater]

went to a teams practice, really nothing going on

but i got to decent snake runs that i thought turned out good
sorry, but i only uploaded the watermarked ones

1.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/3379683603_4535441e11.jpg
2.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3663/3379683991_6871a353d5.jpg
3.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3599/3379684271_b2946a4724.jpg
4.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3537/3380501984_51f527aaf0.jpg
5.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/3380502262_db6280f298.jpg
6.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3632/3379685037_73922a4e2f.jpg

heres a new one

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3543/3388508795_7a8b20ae7c.jpg

[drumebskater]

next run:

1.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3546/3379601755_d9566923f7.jpg
2.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3419/3379602099_de92afbb2b.jpg
3.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/3379602471_24a9130496.jpg
4.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3545/3380419700_d36d4081a5.jpg
5.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3574/3380419982_fa30eff956.jpg
6.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3441/3379603123_6523f29351.jpg

and a smile haha
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3380420366_fff49933c5.jpg

[Playonpics.com]

nice,
Your abit underexposed though...
Post up some of a full game, i'm eager to see your work for a real game.

[drumebskater]

thanks, ya i figured that lol

ill have to post some stuff from almost a year ago lol this was the first time ive been out in months since ive been to school
take a look at my flickr if you get a chance
heres some stuff from actual games i have lol
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3048/3003395209_4ea7b4dbb8.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/3003484536_c1fcfe9300.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3114/3096814931_46796f2d7b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3044/3040415964_a8819d02bc.jpg

[Playonpics.com]

Your still really dark on your shots... kick up your exposure abit...
What mode are you shooting in?

[drumebskater]

i think its just my processing ive been doing on a lot of them
im just tryin different things though
and i really shoot in Tv or M

plus i think a lot of these pics, the days were very cloud covered, with no sun, so that plays into the exposure

[Playonpics.com]

i find overcast makes for great photos... Mind you your f/ stop goes to 2.8, or atleast i do, since i don't like noise.
I shoot in Av mode, or if its always the same light i try for M.

[dsul413]

i think its just my processing ive been doing on a lot of them
im just tryin different things though
and i really shoot in Tv or M

plus i think a lot of these pics, the days were very cloud covered, with no sun, so that plays into the exposure

With paintball the lighting changes so frequently, I would HIGHLY recommend you shoot in AV mode.

[AdamLewis]

With paintball the lighting changes so frequently, I would HIGHLY recommend you shoot in AV mode.

Lighting changes frequently in paintball?...

[AdamLewis]

Unless Im missing something, it looks like you just let the motor drive do some work for you and then posted it up here? Its just not interesting to me. Sorry.

All of the shots seem to be on the darker side of things, and Im not digging the batch vingette youve got going on.

As far as the match pictures, theyre really no different than the first ones. Just some people running and diving. No shooting (or rather no apparent shooting), nobody getting hit, nobody getting bunkered...

Just doesnt seem to be much there story-wise.

Theres one guy on here who does some really nice paintball photography. I cant remember his name exactly, but its something like "paintballphotography". Look up his stuff

Here, I did the legwork for you
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/search.php?searchid=7411223

[NotYourPsycho]

Lighting changes frequently in paintball?...

Due to clouds and shadows when players move and how the sun/clouds are hitting the bunkers.

[AdamLewis]

Due to clouds and shadows when players move and how the sun/clouds are hitting the bunkers.

So lighting changes a lot on partly cloudy days...Not just in paintball ;)

[dsul413]

Lighting changes frequently in paintball?...

I'm sorry, I didn't say outdoor sports...

It is still true though. Depending on where people are located on the field and the weather conditions the lighting can vary drastically.

The bunkers can cast nasty shadows. Who'd have thunk it. Throughout a day my settings change significantly, especially at tournaments where you have multiple locations. This happens without clouds too. Most paintball photographers also move quite a bit on the sides of the different fields to get shots.

THAT's why my advice is to shoot in Av.

[AdamLewis]

I'm sorry, I didn't say outdoor sports...

It is still true though. Depending on where people are located on the field and the weather conditions the lighting can vary drastically.

The bunkers can cast nasty shadows. Who'd have thunk it. Throughout a day my settings change significantly, especially at tournaments where you have multiple locations. Most paintball photographers also move quite a bit on the sides of the different fields to get shots.

Probably everyone would have thunk it, but if it is sunny youve really only got two lighting conditions you have to figure out. Sun and shade.

If its overcast, its pretty much only one.

If its partly cloudy, thats a different story but still not something too difficult to handle.

I guess what Im getting at is that Av mode is great but not something that is necessarily needed. Learning what light is there and adjusting accordingly will avoid erroneously metered shots and keep your exposure constant.

Im not saying you shouldnt shoot Av or that it makes you any less of a photographer if you choose to. Im just offering my two cents on it.

[dsul413]

Probably everyone would have thunk it, but if it is sunny youve really only got two lighting conditions you have to figure out. Sun and shade.

If its overcast, its pretty much only one.

If its partly cloudy, thats a different story but still not something too difficult to handle.

I guess what Im getting at is that Av mode is great but not something that is necessarily needed. Learning what light is there and adjusting accordingly will avoid erroneously metered shots and keep your exposure constant.

Im not saying you shouldnt shoot Av or that it makes you any less of a photographer if you choose to. Im just offering my two cents on it.

I've shot manual as well - one of the problems is that the focus point in paintball varies considerably. In the leagues I shoot you have 7 people per team behind bunkers of various sizes on both sides of the field - with all due respect, you don't have two simple lighting conditions to handle in many cases, even in the sun, and due to the volume of shots I take, I find it easier at an event to shoot Av.

There is nothing wrong with manual, I shoot it many times when I'm at a local field having fun, but the volume of quality shots you get may be lower. The speed of the game combined with the varied lighting even on one side of the field makes it difficult to switch off a player to another player (when something exciting happens) and get anywhere close to a quality photo.

I also haven't seen any use for Tv in paintball, but that's my opinion. There really isn't a point to locking your shutter speed when you can maintain a shallow DOF and get nice high shutter speeds, or the highest possible given the lighting.

EDIT: Especially with the changes in color for teams that wear different colored jerseys (or teams that don't have a team jersey) or non-uniform colored bunkers you can get odd exposures if you have certain settings for shade and sun. That said, Av can also be off here.

I'll leave it as my preference for shooting paintball photography is Av due to many factors.

One thing to note is that the fields I shoot at have trees on one side or are surrounded by trees which cause some difficulties, so I may have some biases.

[Playonpics.com]

Unless Im missing something, it looks like you just let the motor drive do some work for you and then posted it up here? Its just not interesting to me. Sorry.

All of the shots seem to be on the darker side of things, and Im not digging the batch vingette youve got going on.

As far as the match pictures, theyre really no different than the first ones. Just some people running and diving. No shooting (or rather no apparent shooting), nobody getting hit, nobody getting bunkered...

Just doesnt seem to be much there story-wise.

Theres one guy on here who does some really nice paintball photography. I cant remember his name exactly, but its something like "paintballphotography". Look up his stuff

Here, I did the legwork for you
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/search.php?searchid=7411223



HAHAHA you don't prove your point that welll... Gary just uses Drive mode... 10FPS... your bound to get those shots...

Thanks tho...

Still i agree with you, he just used drive mode... but you get those break shots better with Drive mode sadly

[Playonpics.com]

I've shot manual as well - one of the problems is that the focus point in paintball varies considerably. In the leagues I shoot you have 7 people per team behind bunkers of various sizes on both sides of the field - with all due respect, you don't have two simple lighting conditions to handle in many cases, even in the sun, and due to the volume of shots I take, I find it easier at an event to shoot Av.

There is nothing wrong with manual, I shoot it many times when I'm at a local field having fun, but the volume of quality shots you get may be lower. The speed of the game combined with the varied lighting even on one side of the field makes it difficult to switch off a player to another player (when something exciting happens) and get anywhere close to a quality photo.

I also haven't seen any use for Tv in paintball, but that's my opinion. There really isn't a point to locking your shutter speed when you can maintain a shallow DOF and get nice high shutter speeds, or the highest possible given the lighting.

EDIT: Especially with the changes in color for teams that wear different colored jerseys (or teams that don't have a team jersey) or non-uniform colored bunkers you can get odd exposures if you have certain settings for shade and sun. That said, Av can also be off here.

I'll leave it as my preference for shooting paintball photography is Av due to many factors.

One thing to note is that the fields I shoot at have trees on one side or are surrounded by trees which cause some difficulties, so I may have some biases.

Actually for the Jersey thing there bud, the Av is sometimes worse, the camera will sometimes use a higher shutter speed and blow out the bunkers and the background just to get the subject in proper exposure...
M is a way of doing things,

I do a few leagues as well, and i'm always changing between M and Av depending on where the clouds are that day.

At the end of the day its up to u, what you use.

I'll stick to my technique...

[drumebskater]

Unless Im missing something, it looks like you just let the motor drive do some work for you and then posted it up here? Its just not interesting to me. Sorry.

All of the shots seem to be on the darker side of things, and Im not digging the batch vingette youve got going on.

As far as the match pictures, theyre really no different than the first ones. Just some people running and diving. No shooting (or rather no apparent shooting), nobody getting hit, nobody getting bunkered...

Just doesnt seem to be much there story-wise.

Theres one guy on here who does some really nice paintball photography. I cant remember his name exactly, but its something like "paintballphotography". Look up his stuff

Here, I did the legwork for you
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/search.php?searchid=7411223

actually i pressed the shutter for every single picture, when its not a very sunny day out, if i was on drive i would be getting very out of focus pics, sadly due to the fact that the lens im using isnt that fast and great for faster sports :oops:

and the other pics i posted were just some other stuff, simply because i dont have any splatter shots :cry:, and shots of people just shooting, have gotten really boring to me

i cant wait till i get a job again lol

[drumebskater]

Due to clouds and shadows when players move and how the sun/clouds are hitting the bunkers.


amy do you know of when the next event is at fort or somewhere? lol

and are you going to cup?

i really really wanna go this year haha

[AdamLewis]

EDIT: Especially with the changes in color for teams that wear different colored jerseys (or teams that don't have a team jersey) or non-uniform colored bunkers you can get odd exposures if you have certain settings for shade and sun. That said, Av can also be off here.



Actually for the Jersey thing there bud, the Av is sometimes worse, the camera will sometimes use a higher shutter speed and blow out the bunkers and the background just to get the subject in proper exposure...
M is a way of doing things,



I was going to say this but someone else already has. Ill still expound on it.

I think youre misunderstanding what light source youre working with and how its actually providing light.

On a sunlit field, the same amount of light is falling on everything (except whatever is in the shade). If a player is wearing a white or black or purple or orange or pink or green jersey...It doesnt matter. The same amount of light is falling on them and their jersey so they should be shot at the same settings. The PROBLEM is ASSUMING that the reflective light meter in your camera knows what its looking at. In all reality it doesnt so it jumps around a little (or sometimes a lot) depending on what color fills the frame.

The same goes for the shade. Everything in shade is in the same amount of shade. The amount of light blocked by one large bunker is the same as the amount blocked by another large bunker and nothing is going to change that. You only have ONE light sources and ONE TYPE of obstruction to block the light, so the actual light in similar areas will be the same despite what your reflective light meter is erroneously telling you.

Dont take my word for it though. Read up on it.

[drumebskater]

heres a couple new ones

1.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3543/3388508795_7a8b20ae7c.jpg
2.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3443/3389381366_85a8ec75dd.jpg
3.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3634/3389381496_cf488ab533.jpg
4.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3581/3388570543_1127a319d2.jpg
5.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3639/3388570347_f3070fa5ae.jpg
6.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3581/3388570181_d650d7ccea.jpg
7.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3627/3388523301_cc0bc37861.jpg

[Playonpics.com]

why the high F stop?
Reduce it, it will make the player pop more, and not make the player seem sooo bland as well as the photo... The barrels are quite distrating...

[drumebskater]

and this sliding bunker...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3431/3388570047_2ac3e3c4f9.jpg

ends with this

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3609/3389380748_7834c62c0e.jpg

[dsul413]

I was going to say this but someone else already has. Ill still expound on it.

I think youre misunderstanding what light source youre working with and how its actually providing light.

On a sunlit field, the same amount of light is falling on everything (except whatever is in the shade). If a player is wearing a white or black or purple or orange or pink or green jersey...It doesnt matter. The same amount of light is falling on them and their jersey so they should be shot at the same settings. The PROBLEM is ASSUMING that the reflective light meter in your camera knows what its looking at. In all reality it doesnt so it jumps around a little (or sometimes a lot) depending on what color fills the frame.

The same goes for the shade. Everything in shade is in the same amount of shade. The amount of light blocked by one large bunker is the same as the amount blocked by another large bunker and nothing is going to change that. You only have ONE light sources and ONE TYPE of obstruction to block the light, so the actual light in similar areas will be the same despite what your reflective light meter is erroneously telling you.

Dont take my word for it though. Read up on it.

I do understand what is going on with the light source, as I also said that Av will have troubles with the jersey issue - my point is simply that Av in many cases makes it far easier to get that "reaction" shot that many people want to see in paintball. I don't think I was clear on this earlier. You brought up the point that you only have a couple lighting scenarios, so shooting in manual is easy - if you have a mixed bag of jerseys, you are going to be changing your exposure for many of your shots dependent on the new lighting situation and the new jersey color (potentially), which may compound my biggest issue with manual - the time it takes to line up the next shot, meter, set the exposure, and start shooting.

I'd guess I'd rather get the shot and potentially slightly over or underexpose, and be able to work with it later, then completely miss the shot.

I agree that shooting manual in many cases will provide a better photo, because you can expose exactly for what you want. If I didn't make that clear before, I apologize - that is a rather obvious point. Many times though, when you want to react to different moves by players, you simply do not have time to switch your settings for what can amount to a new scene, light falling differently on a subject due to shadow or some other variable. This problem is compounded if you are not an experienced player or photographer because it can be difficult to anticipate moves by players. I've played for years, so it isn't as much an issue for me, but changing settings takes time that you don't necessarily have in a paintball match.

There are a lot of stock action shots in other sports that can be considered good shots - posting up photos of some player sitting behind their bunker is considerably less interesting, and in my experience with 7-man paintball, you may only get a few, snap-second chances to get a really interesting shot. If you can't capitalize on this, you are SOL at the end of the day.

EDIT: There really isn't a right or wrong here. My preference is Av for shooting, but I shoot manual as well (35% of the time maybe at an event, 50% of the time having fun at a local field?). If my shots are being blown out by Av I'll switch, or if stopping the exposure up or down isn't consistently helping with this issue - if my manual settings aren't working well for a variety of shots, or I'm missing shots because of them, I'll definitely stay in Av.

I have no problem with manual, I haven't said I do. I do have a problem shooting in Tv - I just don't really see the point in it. Again, thats preference.

EDIT 2 (since I'm avoiding studying for an exam): If I get get consistent lighting I LOVE shooting M. I just generally speaking don't get anywhere close to consistent lighting. Also remember that I have players who run through scattered tree cover on fields with bunkers of differing colors and quickly changing weather - my variables may be vastly different than someone else. I posted an example below.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3557/3312163142_87674d3dee.jpg


To the OP: I looked through some of your older photos on your flickr. You nailed the exposure in those, is your post-processing intentionally darkening the photos?

[AdamLewis]

You brought up the point that you only have a couple lighting scenarios, so shooting in manual is easy - if you have a mixed bag of jerseys, you are going to be changing your exposure for many of your shots dependent on the new lighting situation and the new jersey color (potentially), which may compound my biggest issue with manual - the time it takes to line up the next shot, meter, set the exposure, and start shooting.



Im sorry. I stopped reading right here.

You obviously dont understand it. The color of the jersey has NOTHING to do with your exposure and only FOOLS your reflective light meter into thinking that. If you had a real incident light meter and measured the EV at all the different colored jerseys, you would see it is the same.

Take some time and read up on it.

Heres a good link to start
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm

And a good snipit from that link
All in-camera light meters have a fundamental flaw: they can only measure reflected light. This means the best they can do is guess how much light is actually hitting the subject. If all objects reflected the same percentage of incident light, this would work just fine, however real-world subjects vary greatly in their reflectance. For this reason, in-camera metering is standardized based on the luminance of light which would be reflected from an object appearing as middle gray. If the camera is aimed directly at any object lighter or darker than middle gray, the camera's light meter will incorrectly calculate under or over-exposure, respectively. A hand-held light meter would calculate the same exposure for any object under the same incident lighting.

So whats that saying is the same thing I have been trying to tell you. Your thinking that you need to change exposure for different colored jerseys is a false notion based upon an incomplete understanding of how the in-camera light meter works. All it can do is guess what it is looking at. It is up to you to KNOW what youre looking at, to KNOW what light source you have, to KNOW how to interpret what the camera is saying, and to KNOW what you need (or in some cases dont need) to do to get the right exposure.

[AdamLewis]

And again,

Let me reiterate that I am NOT saying to shoot Av is wrong. Im simply saying that the justification behind doing so that has been given here is based on misinformation. If you have people constantly darting between light and shadow, I can completely understand why you would want to shoot Av. However, to think that you have more than two lighting situations just because you have different colored jerseys is a misconception that I am simply trying to clear up.

[mikeassk]

Good fun in this thread.
I dont know how many of you use the feature where the * button automatically shifts into AV but that is the best of both worlds. Just shoot in M and when the scene is about to lose light or vary press the * button next to the Back Focus button and the camera automatically switches to AV ( And I have mine set to +1/3 compen on top of that)
It is a function on the 1D III, not sure of other cams. I never shoot my 20D in anything other than manual.

[Playonpics.com]

lol, wow, to sound abit newbish here, but i always wondered what the hell that * thing did haha
Thx for the info...

Adam, i completly agree with you...

Also that Dsul, i don't know what the heck that photo has to do with anything since the light is coming down nicely on the player (looking at the reflection on the bunker and the shadow on the other side of the dorito)

http://www.playonpics.com/datas/users/1/bunker%20copy.jpg

[AdamLewis]

Good fun in this thread.
I dont know how many of you use the feature where the * button automatically shifts into AV but that is the best of both worlds. Just shoot in M and when the scene is about to lose light or vary press the * button next to the Back Focus button and the camera automatically switches to AV ( And I have mine set to +1/3 compen on top of that)
It is a function on the 1D III, not sure of other cams. I never shoot my 20D in anything other than manual.

The * button doesnt necessarily take it to Av. It can take it to whatever you set it to be. You also need to enable safety shift to make it foolproof. Non-1D models lack this feature and also lack ISO safety shift.

However, most of the newer cameras do have the C1/C2/C3 positions on the dial that you can use.

[AdamLewis]

lol, wow, to sound abit newbish here, but i always wondered what the hell that * thing did haha
Thx for the info...

Adam, i completly agree with you...

Also that Dsul, i don't know what the heck that photo has to do with anything since the light is coming down nicely on the player (looking at the reflection on the bunker and the shadow on the other side of the dorito)

[IMG]http://www.playonpics.com/datas/users/1/bunker%20copy.jpg[IMG]

The * doesnt do that by itself. You have to set it to. And thats only on 1D cameras. By default, the * is simply an AE-Lock button.

[Playonpics.com]

and this sliding bunker...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3431/3388570047_2ac3e3c4f9.jpg

ends with this

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3609/3389380748_7834c62c0e.jpg


I can't figure it out, but your colors seemed messed up.. Bunkers seem to have tint of greyish or something to them...
Again still have a high Fstop

As well as harder crops

Example of what i mean
http://www.playonpics.com/datas/users/1/mxl3.jpg

[mikeassk]

Thats why I called it a feature.

[Playonpics.com]

The * doesnt do that by itself. You have to set it to. And thats only on 1D cameras. By default, the * is simply an AE-Lock button.


Booo.. lol... either way i have all Custom dial button set up, then Av lol... thats what i use

[NotYourPsycho]

amy do you know of when the next event is at fort or somewhere? lol

and are you going to cup?

i really really wanna go this year haha

I have no idea on upcoming events. I just finished Paramedic school and still need to take my National tests so I've been kind of out of the loop.

I hopefully will make it to atleast cup this year.
*fingers crossed*

[Playonpics.com]

Whats your name on the nation?

I hope for cup this year, but university midterms may stop me like the past 2 years

[dsul413]

Im sorry. I stopped reading right here.

You obviously dont understand it. The color of the jersey has NOTHING to do with your exposure and only FOOLS your reflective light meter into thinking that. If you had a real incident light meter and measured the EV at all the different colored jerseys, you would see it is the same.

Take some time and read up on it.

Heres a good link to start
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm

And a good snipit from that link


So whats that saying is the same thing I have been trying to tell you. Your thinking that you need to change exposure for different colored jerseys is a false notion based upon an incomplete understanding of how the in-camera light meter works. All it can do is guess what it is looking at. It is up to you to KNOW what youre looking at, to KNOW what light source you have, to KNOW how to interpret what the camera is saying, and to KNOW what you need (or in some cases dont need) to do to get the right exposure.

You and I are obviously on different pages; my point with exposure is that, even when shooting manual, what the camera is "telling" you is incorrect (which you pointed out), so many times the photographer is going to incorrectly expose the photo based off of that read. In a sense your reasoning is actually the reason I shoot in Av; it isn't worth it to me, at an event, to keep track of what manual settings expose correctly on 5 different fields in different light conditions (I've been at ISO 400 on one field and 1600 on another - no joke). It is the reason I shoot in Av - I'd rather get the volume of shots, most exposed correctly (or, if I know the meter is off, I can change the settings for the exposure to "underexpose" or "overexpose" to get the exposure right, and now I don't have to worry about it).

It isn't worth it to me to be changing more settings than I need to at an event, because I am there to capture all of the action. Shooting in Av does what I need, with enough versatility where I don't miss as much. I can control most of what I need to expose correctly.

I really do understand what you are saying - I admit that my wording earlier was misleading, and I apologize. I've had a rough week of exams so what I'm thinking and what I'm typing don't always line up. How you change the settings on the camera in varied lighting situations will change based on jersey - but because, in differing situations, you have to account for how much the jersey is throwing your metering off, and when you have different jerseys, it compounds your problem.

Does that work for you?

EDIT: When I said "if you have a mixed bag of jerseys, you are going to be changing your exposure for many of your shots dependent on the new lighting situation and the new jersey color (potentially)", I meant just this - that, when you approach a new lighting situation, you have to figure out the change in your exposure not only from your metering but also how the scene is throwing it off. Running through all those settings often isn't my cup of tea, my point this entire thread pretty much.

Oh, and playonpics - that photo was put up to show the variation in lighting on some of the fields I shot due to tree cover and the like.

[Playonpics.com]

1600 on a XT damm... thats crazy... you shouldn't be on the field then... its nighttime then haha

Highest ISO i've ever been on a paintball field is 800 TOPS

That shot doesn't overly show much...
Also if that how you take your paintball shots, with ALOT of dead space, that makes another issue arise... Also depending on what your metering mode is, you not zooming in as much can throw your reader off, making the picture either underexposed or over...

ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM... and Manual Manual Manual!!!

[NotYourPsycho]

Whats your name on the nation?

I hope for cup this year, but university midterms may stop me like the past 2 years

My name on PbN is the same here, NotYourPsycho, if that was to me

[dsul413]

1600 on a XT damm... thats crazy... you shouldn't be on the field then... its nighttime then haha

Highest ISO i've ever been on a paintball field is 800 TOPS

That shot doesn't overly show much...
Also if that how you take your paintball shots, with ALOT of dead space, that makes another issue arise... Also depending on what your metering mode is, you not zooming in as much can throw your reader off, making the picture either underexposed or over...

ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM... and Manual Manual Manual!!!

That's not how I take most of my shots - generally speaking I don't have issues with my reader, my shots are usually exposed well. That particular photo was taken with more deadspace because I liked the effect, that's all. It was only posted to show the types of changes in lighting the fields I shoot on have, one of the big reasons I use Av frequently. All I was highlighting there was the break from strong light to shadow.

Like I said, I shoot manual too. Hell, I shoot manual for everything non-paintball, pretty much. I just prefer Av on the fields I shoot if I have to get shots. If I can screw around, then ya I'll shoot manual. If that player starts moving I want to trust that my shutter speed will change as I cross that shadow barrier to get a good exposure, and not miss the shot fiddling with my settings. I choose to take the shot with the risk that my exposure may be a tad off.

Oh, and 1600 - ya, it was pretty dark out. Its only happened once or twice, but shooting at f/4 and trying to get my shutter speed up high enough to freeze action has sometimes required it.

Surprisingly enough I do have an idea of why I do what I do ;)

[Playonpics.com]

scary lol

GL

[dsul413]

scary lol

GL

haha, thanks.