View Full Version : close ups of birds
winterstar
27th of March 2009 (Fri), 12:30
I'm wondering as I see all the beautiful images of little birds, how do you get them?
What camera, lense? Do you use zoom or macro usually?
davebreal
28th of March 2009 (Sat), 09:00
feeders are often a good way to get close to birds. i'm sure 90% are using our main long lens for 90% of our birding shots, it's just a matter of the camera focusing closer or further depending on the situations that come up.
for example, this was taken with my typical 500mm f/4 lens in a forest. i did crop it a decent amount here though:http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3051/3074681268_983d5a2a78.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidraymond/3074681268/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidraymond/3074681268/)
BradM
28th of March 2009 (Sat), 09:40
The best technique is to be like the butler in Adam Sandler's movie Mr. Deeds; very very sneaky.
Actually sneaking up on a subject is rarely effective but if one is still, quiet and waiting in the right place the subject will come to them. Backyard, beach or backwoods it works. Some use blinds, some camo or ghillie suits, or some like me just go out and sit on our little stools and watch the incredible varied life move past us.
But what gear will work is entirely up to you and the subject, the longer the better is the rule. But the body doesn't make any real difference to a quality shot. Some older and a couple recent examples.
30D, 100-400mm @ 390mm. Sitting in the field.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/egretupclose.jpg
30D, 100-400mm @ 400mm Sitting in the marsh.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/yellowhead2.jpg
As above, except sitting in the woodlands.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/swallow.jpg
40D, 100-400mm @ 390mm lying on a dock.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/dowitcher85b.jpg
50D, 500mm f/4 sitting in the car
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/heronandfish.jpg
40D, 500mm f/4 w/ 1.4x (700mm) lying on a dock
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/westerngrebe-1.jpg
1D3, 500mm sitting in the car
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/bitterncloseup10.jpg
1D3, 500mm w/1.4x (700mm) sitting in the backyard
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/HummerMar09_2.jpg
JimTx
28th of March 2009 (Sat), 11:48
Brad .. you need to sit more often .. very nice shots.
jgrussell
28th of March 2009 (Sat), 12:03
Brad! Beautiful series! More!
artyman
28th of March 2009 (Sat), 17:18
A long lense is the most useful tool in the bird shooters armoury, that and patience, sometimes sitting concealed for a couple of hours can help results. The easiest closeups are probably from a hide(blind) pointing at your garden feeder.
BradM
28th of March 2009 (Sat), 18:39
A long lense is the most useful tool in the bird shooters armoury, that and patience, sometimes sitting concealed for a couple of hours can help results. The easiest closeups are probably from a hide(blind) pointing at your garden feeder.
I would have to disagree, I have a blind, a ghillie suit, camo drapes in 3 different colors and patterns but for my backyard I use none of them. Rough guess of the species I have had in yard without checking the book it is in the 70's range.
And while some are "flighty" most are not if one spends time there and the more time one spends less wary the birds become. If this only going to be an occasional pursuit for one then maybe a blind or something is in order. But I try to spend time in yard doing the normal tasks, or just sitting on the patio with a cup of coffee or doing the same with the camera. Time spent is time rewared.
gymell
30th of March 2009 (Mon), 19:37
I have a blind too, but the problem I've always found is it obscures the view so much. Half the fun for me is just watching what's around. If you sit still and aren't perceived as a threat, you'd be surprised how close the birds will come.
Hawkman
31st of March 2009 (Tue), 21:25
Just walk up to em sometimes :-) All of these were walk-ups. Some shot with 500mm plus extension tubes (so you can get closer than the minimum focusing distance) and some with teleconverter. 10d (1.6x crop body):
Cheers - Gene
700mm (with teleconverter) - a waiting game
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/80893768/original.jpg
500mm + extension tubes
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/75120156/original.jpg
extreme close-ups with 58mm of extensiuon tubes on 50-0mm:
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/60898890/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/53688859/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/45888040/original.jpg
A barnswallow chick is quite small:
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/45916954/original.jpg
badams
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 11:07
What does that bring the focusing distance down to (by using 58mm of tubes)? Those are fantastic.
Hawkman
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 12:34
What does that bring the focusing distance down to (by using 58mm of tubes)? Those are fantastic.
Sorry, 68mm of tubes. around 7 feet I reckon.
- Gene
superdiver
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 12:48
I was wondering how you focus when so close as I cant get closer then 8-10 feet with my 1-400 (if that close).
So its the tubes, didnt think of that. Kinda like macro then?
Hawkman
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 16:55
I was wondering how you focus when so close as I cant get closer then 8-10 feet with my 1-400 (if that close).
So its the tubes, didnt think of that. Kinda like macro then?
Yes. And the image quality doesn't suffer except the Depth Of Field is very shallow that close. Typical macro style issue. Here is a 100% crop wit the 10D + 500/4L + extension tubes. Some might fine detail from a 500mm macro :lol:
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/55517734/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/gaocus/image/55517733/original.jpg
Methodical
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 19:01
Sorry, 68mm of tubes. around 7 feet I reckon.
- Gene
You've just convinced me. I was on the fence about the tubes but I just fell over. What make of tubes are you using and reason for these specific tubes. Also what is the normal focus distant for the 500mm without the tube?
Thanks
Hawkman
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 19:15
You've just convinced me. I was on the fence about the tubes but I just fell over. What make of tubes are you using and reason for these specific tubes. Also what is the normal focus distant for the 500mm without the tube?
Thanks
Kenko set of three. Their price. Well worth the $120 or so. They are constructed sturdy enough for a Mark IIN off of a 500/4.
The normal minimum focusing distance for a 500 is ~15 feet. So it is about 1/2 with 68mm of tubes. The real measure is the maximum magnification @ MFD of all of the superteles (400/5.6, 500, 600) is about 0.11 - this about doubles that.
- Gene
Methodical
1st of April 2009 (Wed), 22:19
Kenko set of three. Their price. Well worth the $120 or so. They are constructed sturdy enough for a Mark IIN off of a 500/4.
The normal minimum focusing distance for a 500 is ~15 feet. So it is about 1/2 with 68mm of tubes. The real measure is the maximum magnification @ MFD of all of the superteles (400/5.6, 500, 600) is about 0.11 - this about doubles that.
- Gene
Thanks for the info. One more ? I forgot to ask. What affect does it have on auto focus, if any.
Thanks
artyman
2nd of April 2009 (Thu), 03:53
What are the maximum distances with the various extension tubes.
Hawkman
2nd of April 2009 (Thu), 08:21
What are the maximum distances with the various extension tubes.
AF is fine but you do loose focus at infinity. I don't know exactly what the far limit is, but it is more than ample for shooting close ups. However if you are using them to shoot a close up, and see something of interest some distance away, you are out of luck.
Gene
artyman
2nd of April 2009 (Thu), 10:32
Hence my question, what was the range.
canonloader
2nd of April 2009 (Thu), 11:37
I just put my hand out and the little suckers just drop into it. http://www.flashbax.com/images/kneeslap.gif
http://www.picturelacrosse.com/birds/chickadee08/chickadee-img_8172-112508.jpg
http://www.picturelacrosse.com/birds/nuthatch08/nuthatch-in-hand-db3b1898-110908.jpg
http://www.picturelacrosse.com/birds/woody08/downywpf-in-hand-db3b1264-110808.jpg
http://www.picturelacrosse.com/birds/woody08/red-headed-woodpecker-img_5761-012209.jpg
yonni
2nd of April 2009 (Thu), 12:39
I just put my hand out and the little suckers just drop into it.
Show off!:) Those are soooo cool. I don't have the software to just glide over a pic and see the exif on my mac, so which lens took the hand pics? I'm guessing the macro.
canonloader
2nd of April 2009 (Thu), 14:59
The first two are the Macro, last two with the Tokina UWA. :)
I like to post the hand shots though, cause most people have no idea what these birds are capable of, given a little love. ;)
winterstar
3rd of April 2009 (Fri), 21:59
oh wow... I'm going to have to dig for my feeding birds... I wish mine where like yours!
Nighthound
4th of April 2009 (Sat), 21:26
I've tried just about every approach to get close. Sometimes the chase works but many times it doesn't. I look at it with a much more tactical approach these days. As many here may know I'm a big proponent of the stake out which requires patience but even more importantly a plan. It's far more satisfying to me when I get "the" shot after really thinking through a plan and making every effort to understand my subjects habits and behavior. I fully understand that wild animals are not ever completely predictable but they are creatures of habit which presents opportunity. I enjoy shooting under camo for the obvious reason of stealth but even more so because it's as close to being invisible as I'm going to get which allows me to see my subjects behaving more naturally.
I don't always shoot under camo because in many locations that I shoot it just isn't practical or it's just not an effective option. While in Florida I had my first one-on-one close encounter with Scrub Jays. I have to admit it was an amazing feeling having wild birds land on me without fear. Unfortunately most of the birds where I live aren't so accommodating so I try to work on a plan that can yield results and I'm having a lot of fun in the process.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67/Nighthd/Bird%20Photography/Test/kfandcatchx.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67/Nighthd/Bird%20Photography/redhead1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67/Nighthd/Bird%20Photography/Avian%20Deluxe/lilblue1xx.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67/Nighthd/Bird%20Photography/kflookdownx.jpg
Methodical
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 20:25
I've tried just about every approach to get close. Sometimes the chase works but many times it doesn't. I look at it with a much more tactical approach these days. As many here may know I'm a big proponent of the stake out which requires patience but even more importantly a plan. It's far more satisfying to me when I get "the" shot after really thinking through a plan and making every effort to understand my subjects habits and behavior. I fully understand that wild animals are not ever completely predictable but they are creatures of habit which presents opportunity. I enjoy shooting under camo for the obvious reason of stealth but even more so because it's as close to being invisible as I'm going to get which allows me to see my subjects behaving more naturally.
I don't always shoot under camo because in many locations that I shoot it just isn't practical or it's just not an effective option. While in Florida I had my first one-on-one close encounter with Scrub Jays. I have to admit it was an amazing feeling having wild birds land on me without fear. Unfortunately most of the birds where I live aren't so accommodating so I try to work on a plan that can yield results and I'm having a lot of fun in the process...
What are the plans? Really nice shots too.
Nighthound
6th of April 2009 (Mon), 11:55
Below is an example of a plan. It could apply to any species that is skittish and effective for just about any situation where mobile cover gives the advantage. Years of observing the Belted Kingfisher gave me a solid understanding of their behavior/habits which is always at the top of my list for gaining an edge and getting better shots.
In Pursuit of the Belted Kingfisher
For years I tried the chase technique with these birds and failed at every pursuit. Even trying drive up shots in my truck left me driving away grumbling. So it was time for a plan.
First I had to do some scouting and locate perches that were frequented by the birds. Then decide the best set up spot with the best light and cleanest backgrounds.
Next I needed to go under cover. I picked up a section of camo fabric from Bass Pro Shop for $25(4.5 ft. x 11 ft.). I like the dangling leaf cut out style because it provides peak holes and ventilation when it's warm. I'm only 5 ft. 10" tall so if you're less vertically challenged you may want to look for a longer section of fabric.
I drape the fabric at the half way mark of the length across the lens/camera/tripod. Then I use a mini bungee(multi pack-WalMart) to wrap the just behind the lens hood and hook underneath. Next take 3 spring clips and close up the front seam(below lens front). Now you simply climb in the back open seam and you're ready to go. I arrive before sunrise and assemble this by my truck, then carry the whole rig to my set up spot to allow me to quickly get out of sight.
It's a good idea to get into and out of the blind when there are no birds around to avoid the association of humans to the funny looking bush with the large glass eye. When arriving this doesn't always work out, there are times when the bird is already there and will fly off. I quickly get under the camo and many times the bird will return a short while later. This is a sign that the bird is very fond of this area for feeding. Returning with my blind in place shows the bird is willing to tolerate an intruder to make use of the perches that are proven for feeding.
Once in position, there's most often a lot of waiting time which I spend metering periodically, doing test exposures and of course listening for that familiar incoming chatter. Once a bird arrives there's an overwhelming instinct to swing the lens over and start shooting. But it's important to remember that you're disguised, not invisible, and these feisty birds are every bit as smart as they are skittish. When they arrive they always take long looks at me, so I wait and stay still. When the bird becomes less concerned about me it will either begin looking for fish below or start preening and that's when I VERY slowly pan over, pause to see the bird's reaction and take a shot as a test of the birds tolerance. If you are concentrating on only one perch when the bird arrives then there's no need to swing the lens around and of course that's a plus. It's more likely that the bird will have a few landing perches near its fishing perches and from my experience there's no telling which one will be favored each day.
As I mentioned when it's time to leave try to wait for the birds to leave first if possible. I've waited almost an hour in the past while a KF perched nearby on an obstructed perch. The more you visit a site and shoot, the less alarmed the bird will be when it spots the blind. It'll still be wary but less likely to do a fly-by-and "see ya" and actually land. Like always it's a good idea to have a spare battery and all needed items pocketed so you don't have to leave the blind and return. And don't forget to pack plenty of patience, it does require a good quantity. Don't be discouraged if you don't have success the first time out or even off and on for no apparent reason. Some days they show and some days they don't, but when they do it's a blast. Good luck everyone and I hope this helps in some way.
davebreal
6th of April 2009 (Mon), 17:03
fantastic guide Steve, I've never implemented a strategic plan like this yet but it seems to be working very well for you. Very insightful, and I may give it a whirl eventually.
Methodical
6th of April 2009 (Mon), 19:58
That's nice. I've been thinking about getting the blind that drapes over you and your camera gear with a chair. I forget the name of the blind but I saw it in a thread here about blinds. I just may go for it and try it out in my back yard.
Nighthound
6th of April 2009 (Mon), 20:11
Thanks Dave and Al. I hope it helps you get some awesome shots.
Al, I have the Ameristep Chair blind and an Ameristep Outhouse-style blind as well for the backyard. The Chair blind is more portable but when I cart the 500L on a hike I can't carry much else and that's where the fabric approach really helps. I used the chair blind in the yard on Sunday, it's comfortable but in the summer you'll want to set up in the shade, it's toasty in there.
Tom Reichner
7th of April 2009 (Tue), 00:15
A long lense is the most useful tool in the bird shooters armoury, that and patience, sometimes sitting concealed for a couple of hours can help results. The easiest closeups are probably from a hide(blind) pointing at your garden feeder.
I agree with the reccomendation about a blind. I like to shoot game species that are often hunted, so they have learned not to allow people to walk up. They won't come close to you once they get used to you being around. Game species that are shot at frequently simply require a blind, and a good one at that. Little tweety birds are often a different story, and often are much easier to photograph.
pixelphotographer
23rd of April 2009 (Thu), 17:16
400mm 2.8 IS lens with a 1.4x and 2.0x stacked teleconverters.
To get the most reach.
And of course manual focus.
Gatornole
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 15:20
Hey everyone-----I would like to expand on Winterstar's question a little. I understand that you can get close up on some birds with a particular lens, but my question is--how close are you in feet, yards, etc on some of the shots I've seen on this thread.
I have a 100x400MM and the closest I have ever gotten to say an Osprey is about 10 yards. Most of the time when I shoot at 400MM it still looks far away and when I Post Process I usaually zoom in maybe 50% or more depending on what I want my shot to look like. Can someone help on this--the pics on this thread are fantastic!!----Do you guys zoom in on PP or are you content at the point when you took the shot---Thanks
canonloader
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 15:32
Big birds, Ospreys and Eagles are different. The only way to get close to those is at a rehapb center or zoo. Little birds, you can get to come close with food, seeds, meal worms, fruit, whatever they like. Even when I can get my yard birds close, I still have to crop to make them look bigger. You can't buy a 400mm lens and sit on the porch to shoot birds down by the river. Even with a big 500, ideally, you want small birds within 35 feet.
Hikin Mike
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 15:41
I thought I'd post my backyard studio here...
http://www.imagesinthebackcountry.com/images/web_temp/_MG_7551.jpg
It's not fancy, but it does work. I use my 5D, 300mm & 1.4x II, cropped from horizontal to portrait...
http://www.imagesinthebackcountry.com/images/web_temp/_MG_8364.jpg
rgfrison
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 18:30
This is full crop on a 40d, 100-400L at about 15 ft.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a271/rgfrison/IMG_7326fc.jpg
canonloader
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 18:36
Really nice Randy. Thats about what I was getting with a 400/5.6 and 3 stacked Kenko tubes. :)
rgfrison
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 18:52
Thanks Mitch.:)
I still haven't figuered out tubes, I know they help with min focus distance but do they
also help with dof at larger apertures, That was shot at f8. anything larger and it starts
getting soft spots on a sparrow sized objects. I was lucky enough, the light was available I could get away with it, but that is almost never the case.
canonloader
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 18:57
Most lenses get aberrations when the aperture goes higher. Just over f/8 seems a little bit much though. Usually it's at f/16 or higher. But tubes won't effect that, or shouldn't. There is no glass in them to cause problems.
rgfrison
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 19:00
Sorry I meant larger aperature smaller f number, who came up with that system anyway.lol
canonloader
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 19:19
It's always been backwards in my mind. Maybe test that lens to find the sweet spot. All lenses have a sweet spot, an aperture where it is sharpest. It's good to know where it is. My 100-400 was at 5.6 and f/8.
Gatornole
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 19:44
Big birds, Ospreys and Eagles are different. The only way to get close to those is at a rehapb center or zoo. Little birds, you can get to come close with food, seeds, meal worms, fruit, whatever they like. Even when I can get my yard birds close, I still have to crop to make them look bigger. You can't buy a 400mm lens and sit on the porch to shoot birds down by the river. Even with a big 500, ideally, you want small birds within 35 feet.
Canonloader---Thanks--I understand what you're saying but I guess I'm the type of guy that likes to find birds in the field--you know-- go hunting for them---it makes my pictures seem more fulfilling if you will. I have bird feeders in my yard and it's to easy to capture the shots by baiting them.
I guess that's why I like the challenge of the Raptors.
Great forum!
canonloader
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 20:00
I shoot Eagles too, in winter. They are too spread out in summer and you need a boat. But if I just went looking for them, I would spend all my time in the looking and none in shooting. And I shoot small birds in the woods. Same thing. I know where they are and I'm too old to be traipsing through the woods looking for them when I know where I can go to find them and not have to get ticks in the process. ;)
Eagles I shoot at 150 feet or less, in the sky, and then I crop till I get a decent size to post here. Sometimes I can get to the base of the tree they are in, sometimes not. :)
BradM
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 20:04
Hey everyone-----I would like to expand on Winterstar's question a little. I understand that you can get close up on some birds with a particular lens, but my question is--how close are you in feet, yards, etc on some of the shots I've seen on this thread.
I have a 100x400MM and the closest I have ever gotten to say an Osprey is about 10 yards. Most of the time when I shoot at 400MM it still looks far away and when I Post Process I usaually zoom in maybe 50% or more depending on what I want my shot to look like. Can someone help on this--the pics on this thread are fantastic!!----Do you guys zoom in on PP or are you content at the point when you took the shot---Thanks
In the first few shots I posted in this thread I was at or near the min. focus distance on many of the shots, probably the furthest off was the Yellow Headed BB at maybe 35', while I have some closer I like the look on that shot better with the enviornmental elements present. On the others the heron and fish maybe 15', the egret at min focus of the 100-400mm, the tree swallow about 18', Bittern 20', Grebe 15'.
If you are aware of where some subjects are like eagles, osprey etc you can get closer of you follow their habits and get there early enough and just wait for the subject. Use a blind, drop cover or suit if you think you need to but in my experience you don't need to. This was from the car just setting up and waiting after watching habits for a period of time:
500mm full frame, cropped for comp.:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/janjuveagle-1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/roughlegged1213b.jpg
Used the 100-400mm for this shot, full frame also crop for composition:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/rainyredtail.jpg
The Dowitchers closeup on pg 1 I was lying on a dock and crawled up to them wearing my motorcycle gear, ballistic nylon pants and nylon/leather jacket in bright yellow, different day, different body/lens combo but the same riding gear with again crawling got me this shot:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Bradklr/dowitcher21.jpg
As far as I am concerned it is about being in the right place and awaiting quietly, shooting wildlife is more about time spent than camera gear owned, luck does come into play but time spent in sitting quietly with a short piece of glass out in the field can result in many more shots than a long piece of glass.
Though having the length to back up your play really pays off too, like you never want to show up at a gunfight with a pocket knife. ;)
As to cropping I will rarely loss more than about 30% of the image, usually just to get the composition I want, though occasionally to pull the subject a bit closer.
johnstoy
27th of April 2009 (Mon), 20:12
I also use extension tubes on my 400mm F/5.6... It's close up focusing range, varies with the size of the tube... Most of my shots are of birds in my large 70 foot maple tree (about 10 to 20 feet away)... It spreads out right in front of my entire house-front, so I shoot from the upstairs deck slider doors...
Gatornole
28th of April 2009 (Tue), 11:52
BradM-----Just GREAT captures!!-Thanks for the info---What software do you use editing these beautiful pictures?
I have been following a pair of nesting Eagles in St. Augustine for 3 years. They come back to the same tree and rebuild their nest--had 2 eaglets this year--they have basically taken flight and I haven't been able to get a good shot of them---However, there must be 10 Blue Heron and White Heron nest all around this Eagles nest so some good shots can be taken of them. There are plenty of Osprey's around a particular section of St. Augustne Beach and I've had some good success getting within 15 feet while they are concentraing on eating their fish. That's the cool thing about hunting these guys--you really have to work haed getting good shots.
Wyldeflower
8th of May 2009 (Fri), 22:58
some amazing photographs i must try harder i love to take bird photos but mine are not as good as these .must try harder.,
canonloader
9th of May 2009 (Sat), 03:42
You should post some and ask for constructive criticism. I have seen people post pics they thought were not that good, and they were spectacular. :)
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