I'm making the jump to a faster camera

[BarbM]

Hi, I'm new here and I'm looking to make the jump from my old Kodak DX6490 to something a little more versatile and a lot more nimble.

I enjoy shooting whitewater kayaking, nature, animals and cultural events so I don't get the luxury of posing anybody. A friend of mine just got a EOS 20D and is in love with it so I'm not sure I'm getting an unbiased opinion of it for what I want to do (he does a lot of macros).

Any suggestions?

[HKFEVER]

Excellent quality, 1DMKII, but too heavy.
Good quality, 20D.
Excellent weight, performance, quality, money ratio, 350D, especially kayaking. it may float on water.:p

[Skip Souza]

Excellent quality, 1DMKII, but too heavy.
Good quality, 20D.
Excellent weight, performance, quality, money ratio, 350D, especially kayaking. it may float on water.:p

On this forum Canon walks on water.:lol: :lol: :lol:
Actually Though I prefer the 20D I think you should give serious consideration to the XT. Handle each of them, see which one fits you. Although size matters :p, it may become irrelevant when you consider the lens. Just make sure it fits your hands.
There are techenical differences and this site here (http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/digital/eos_digital_rebel_xt_vs_20d.html) and here (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos350d/) may help in comparison.
Of course you could opt for some other brand which will surely sink like a stone.:rolleyes:

[picture-this]

I like my 20D but it's to slow for sequences of the sports I'm into (5fps) and buffer space 6 shots in raw... Other then that in normal light the auto focus is fast enough for me. On the size part, I could never use the XT or even the 20D without the grip, I have big hands and big lenses.

[micklemuk]

ive just bought the 350D, did buy the nikon d70 at first but exchanged it for the 350D and i now prefer the smaller size,one u added teh weight of yr lens/flashgun the lightness of the 350D is a plesure

[funpix]

The XT is not sealed from my understanding. I believe the 20D would be a better choice due to your location shoots - whitewater rafting.

[defordphoto]

The XT is not sealed from my understanding. I believe the 20D would be a better choice due to your location shoots - whitewater rafting.

The ONLY Canon dSLRs that are sealed are the 1-series. 20D, or XT are equally not sealed.

[GeForceFX]

A friend of mine just got a EOS 20D and is in love with it so I'm not sure I'm getting an unbiased opinion of it for what I want to do (he does a lot of macros).


If you got a friend with a 20D, you can try the camera out, right?

go to your friend, use that 20D for a few minutes and fall in love :p:p

[RJSorensen]

Twenty D . . . accept no substitutes.

[Andy_T]

20D, or XT are equally not sealed.

So it won't float for long.
You better get it back into the boat real quick :lol:

Best regards,
Andy

[Longwatcher]

If any of the cameras actually end up in the water (instead of just splashed) they need to be seriously dried out and maybe checked out before turning on.
The 1 series may take a dunk or two under water, but any actual submersion is not likely to be good.
The 10D, 20D series will take a little bit of rain or splashing, but don't recommend dunking at all.
and the 300D, 350D should handle a light drizzle without problem, but not reccomended for actual rain.
If doing kyaking or white water rafting, and can afford it, check into an underwater housing for your camera, that will allow it to survive submersion. The ones I would trust tend to cost as much as the camera, but they have some low cost ones that should work for white water expectations.
BH has a few listed
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=search&Q=&ci=5237

Otherwise just google for underwater housing for cameras

Just my opinion,

[BarbM]

Thanks everyone! I'm getting a clue and inviting the 20d (+ owner) out for a day of shooting playboating (from the shore) at one of the local holes on the Rogue - so we'll see how it feels.

[J Rabin]

Barb: My opinions. Study and be sure what is the dominant picture taking you will do for years to come. I am an elated 20D owner (after 10D and after terrible digicams).
I assume you mean carrying camera in K, and then hit shore, settup to shoot others, then back in? My Bro & Sis-in-law (a whitewater instructor) live on the Snake River in ID take some very good digitals with a Canon S1 IS digicam. This summer was their 2nd trip through the Grand Canyon (K and rafts). For practice and price, they settled on a little Canon S1 IS. Because of digicam shutter lag, they have to pre-focus and/or preplan shots. I can't tolerate digicam shutter lag and bad viewfinders, but people take nice pictures with practice. The Canon S1 IS, the Minolta A2, and the Panasonic all have anti-shake digicams with long lenses. The Minolta A2 (not A200) was best of the bunch.
If you go dSLR, the minimum is a 20D because the servo focus is so darn good for a mid-range dSLR. Be aware, the 20D's precision focus sensor only activates with a lens f/2.8 or faster. For perfectionists or pros, that means BIG, HEAVY, EXPENSIVE lenses. Or compromises, which most people do! For me, the 20D was the FIRST AFFORDABLE FUNCTIONAL servo autofocus dSLR made. I'm addicted to it.

1. Let's assume a-$3,000+/- budget, and b-you are not a pro. 2. In your budget, put in $ for a Pelican or equal water PROOF case bungeed in secure. Cam out only when SAFE. 3. Plan for a FAST (low f/stop) lens if you can go OVER $3,000. To stop action you will sometimes need up to 1/500 shutter speed, depending on angle K is coming through viewfinder. 4. Plan on a lens setup with EFFECTIVE focal lengths of 200-300mm+.
You go downstream ahead to a nice hole, or rocks, or etc., get out, find sun and nice angles and background, test shoot, check histogram. Ready. Because you're breathing hard, holding cam steady at those focal lengths in no easy task. That's why they did cheap digicam with IS. Maybe a monopod. Tripod no go. Practice panning a lot ("follow-focus") after you get the camera. Like Sears; Good-Better-Best.

Good: 20D plus 17-85 IS kit lens (general use) for $2,000. Pelican case. Good 67mm UV filter. Good 67mm circular polarizer. Good sportshooter hand strap, like Domke. Giottos Rocket blower (big one) for dust cleaning in field. Now the controversy starts over sport lens! All the better Lenses with f/2.8 will bust your $3,000 budget. They become the whole budget! These are the Canon f/2.8 L lenses. Here are two of my last weeks shots at T-Town Velodrome stopping action with Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS with converter, at f/4. The color and contrast of this lens is mind boggling. But it's $2,000. The Canon 300mm f/4 L is even more, but stellar.
http://postit.rutgers.edu/uploads/David%20TTownVelo%2001%2Ejpg
http://postit.rutgers.edu/uploads/David%20TTownVelo%2002%2Ejpg

There is one affordable portable L alternative: the 70-200 f/4 L ($600) with the Converter 1.4X ($280), 320-440mm eqiv. You're already over $3,000, and the f/4 (or f/5.6 with converter) will not activate precision focus, but it WILL servo focus well. The limit of the 20D auto focus is f/5.6, and this kit just makes it on focal length and f/stop. You will not outgrow it, unless you spend more money.

So, what's a person to do? Here's a controversial recommend for a starter sport lens: Buy the Canon old 100-300 f4-5.6 only available new as mail order gray market for $270 plus the hood for $25. This is Canon's ONLY non-L, consumer grade, light weight, longer telephoto that had a Ring-USM rear element focus (fast focus). They don't offer it in US anymore, but all the mail order houses have it. Buy a 58-67mm step up ring for $ so you can share the 67 polarizer(needed shooting bright light over water). Buy it it's own 58mm UV filter for protection. Here is an old review of that lens http://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/toolbox3.htm

Better and best? If you have money or sell images then a 1dMkII for the BEST focus tracking of any camera, anywhere. The weight alone is inconvenient and scary, unless you're selling images. Matched to a Canon 300mm L lens. The Kayak will tip in the direction of the gear, but's it great toys.
Enjoy. Jack

[Perfect_10]

.... it may float on water.:p
Just cos it's made of plastic doesn't mean it'll float .. :lol: :lol:

[BarbM]

Here are two of my last weeks shots at T-Town Velodrome stopping action with Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS with converter, at f/4. The color and contrast of this lens is mind boggling. But it's $2,000. The Canon 300mm f/4 L is even more, but stellar.
http://postit.rutgers.edu/uploads/D...Velo%2001%2Ejpg (http://postit.rutgers.edu/uploads/David%20TTownVelo%2001%2Ejpg)
Thanks for the heads-up, Jack. BTW the velodrome shots were amazing - I see what you mean. And yes, I've been wondering about monopods - most of the shooting I've been doing is perched among boulders.

[J Rabin]

Barb. Thanks for Velodrome comment. My son is happy. Spend your time before your money. Added thought. While I'm a Canon fan, the Olympus 4/3 system and lenses have a lot to offer off-road types. They were too expensive when first released, but now, on B&H, a person can get the weather-sealed self-cleaning sensor Oly E-1 with 14-54 kit lens for about $1,300 and the beautiful fast 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 for about a $1,000. I spent 20+ years with Olympus film SLRs. They make good glass. I do not know how they servo track focus for sports, or whether the line will even be viable in the long run. But, the Oly lenses are tops and gear is rugged. I went Canon. Won't look back.