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danielyamseng
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 08:09
What's the ideal setup for 1D mark III coupled with 70-200mm f2.8 lens?

I just want the best bang of buck ballhead which is fast to mount and unmount and won't slip.

So what's the recommended ballhead, quick release clamp and the quick release plates?

Is it ok to choose the min load for my requirement (if I don't plan to use 400mm and above lens)?

argyle
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 09:09
I'd go with a Markins M-10 ballhead with a Really Right Stuff lever clamp setup, myself. You have some top-notch gear...may as well support it properly. Of course, everything hinges on the capability of your tripod legs...

rklepper
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 15:50
Check Kirk also.

OldA1
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 16:15
I use the Acratech Ultimate V2 ballhead, RRS L bracket and Bogen 055MF3 tripod and find it to be very sturdy and capable.

Peace
Mark

ed rader
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 17:48
What's the ideal setup for 1D mark III coupled with 70-200mm f2.8 lens?

I just want the best bang of buck ballhead which is fast to mount and unmount and won't slip.

So what's the recommended ballhead, quick release clamp and the quick release plates?

Is it ok to choose the min load for my requirement (if I don't plan to use 400mm and above lens)?


i use markins Q3 with RRS flip lever release and RRS plate. i have been using the Q3 with markins quick shoe but that QR is an accident waiting to happen (for me).

ed rader

danielyamseng
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 18:52
What about RRS L plate? How useful is it?

Can I live without it?

ed rader
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 18:59
What about RRS L plate? How useful is it?

Can I live without it?

if you are using the flip lever release get the RRS or wimberley plate. the others probably won't fit correctly -- e.g., i am easily able to pull my markins and a generic plate right out of the RR flip lever quick release when tightened.

ed rader

danielyamseng
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 19:21
ed rader, do you mean if I get an RRS B2 LR II, I need to get an RRS plate as well?

Any idea which model of flip lever release and plate I should get? I'm worried that I get the wrong side.

Never heard anyone mention the RRS L plate. If the camera was placed in vertical position away from the tripod center axis, is still okay is it? As long as I use a good ballhead there's no issue such as the setup will be less stable if I position the camera in vertical direction?

ben_r_
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 19:57
Markins M10 and an RRS lever clamp!

ed rader
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 19:58
ed rader, do you mean if I get an RRS B2 LR II, I need to get an RRS plate as well?

Any idea which model of flip lever release and plate I should get? I'm worried that I get the wrong side.

Never heard anyone mention the RRS L plate. If the camera was placed in vertical position away from the tripod center axis, is still okay is it? As long as I use a good ballhead there's no issue such as the setup will be less stable if I position the camera in vertical direction?


all the RRS flip lever heads require either RRS or wimberley plates. both companies make plates to the same tolerances. believe me, don't deviate from spec here....they aren't kidding.

the plate you will buy is dependant on what you are mounting the QR to...i.e., camera or lens.

RRS stuff doesn't make universal plates....they say they don't believe in them....but that's a pretty convenient and lucrative belief imo :D.

wimberley makes a universal camera plate. if you are using a plastic camera forget about it...you can read the caveats on the wimberely site.

if you don't shoot in vertical alot i wouldn't buy an L plate. any good ballhead and legset will support your camera in the vertical position without L plate but it just won't be as convenient.

now, if you are using a bigger lens with a tripod collar i'm sure you know you won't need an L plate because you'll be mounting to the lens collar, which rotates..

i think the guys who need L plates already know it :D.

ed rader

ed rader
5th of April 2009 (Sun), 20:03
What about RRS L plate? How useful is it?

Can I live without it?


okay i see i answered another question when you asked this one. my answer is in my last post.

the short answer is i don't need or use an L plate.

also if you are using the markins quick shoe that comes with their ballheads any arca plate will work.

ed rader

argyle
6th of April 2009 (Mon), 16:58
What about RRS L plate? How useful is it?

Can I live without it?

ed rader, do you mean if I get an RRS B2 LR II, I need to get an RRS plate as well?

Any idea which model of flip lever release and plate I should get? I'm worried that I get the wrong side.

Never heard anyone mention the RRS L plate. If the camera was placed in vertical position away from the tripod center axis, is still okay is it? As long as I use a good ballhead there's no issue such as the setup will be less stable if I position the camera in vertical direction?

Having an L-bracket is like having your first pickup truck...once you have it and use it, you'll wonder how you ever managed without it. :D

The lever release clamp (or any clamp, for that matter), will depend upon the size of the connection point at the ballhead (generally 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, or M6 metric). For example, the Markins M10 uses a 3/8-inch stud to connect the clamp to the ballhead. In this instance, you'd need the RRS B2 LR II lever clamp. The proper clamp will be dictated by the ballhead and its method of connection.

The L-bracket will allow you to change the orientation of the camera without having to re-position your tripod and recompose the shot. If you were to use the drop slot on the ballhead, you'd have to flip the camera over (which would then require you to reposition the tripod, recompose your framing, etc). This also can affect the stability of the rig and introduce vibrations, especially if you have a long lens attached. The L-bracket keeps the load centered over the apex of the tripod, where it is most stable. In short, the L-bracket is a godsend.

jhom
6th of April 2009 (Mon), 21:44
As already stated, M10 with a RRS lever clamp + L bracket. Once you start using the combination, you will never look back. This combination gives you room to grow in focal length.

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5864/m10rh3.jpg

Rey
7th of April 2009 (Tue), 00:44
Here's my suggestion:

http://i27.tinypic.com/2aalfl4.jpg

RRS BH-55 LR. Solid, stable and ergonomic.

I'd go with the L-plate. Once you start using one you won't know how you got on without one. The first thing I ordered after my 5D MKII was the RRS L-plate for it. I've used one on my 40D and my 20D before that.

Greg_C
7th of April 2009 (Tue), 05:07
Another vote for the RRS BH55 and L Plate. Like others here I had to get a new plate when I moved from the 40D to my 1D3. I moved to the RRS gear from a Manfrotto 488RC2 and was amazed how much more I like the RRS head.

Here's the link to the review. http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=625719

http://www.steadyhands.net/review/image40167.jpg

René Damkot
7th of April 2009 (Tue), 12:12
Recently got the chance to try a BH55 in a store, and I have to say I prefer my Markins M10: A tiny bit smoother.

Both good heads though.

tmerrick
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 11:54
I am using a Bogen 488 with a RRS Lever Release and RRS L bracket. It seems to hold my 1dMK2 and 70-400 f4 solid so far.

katodog
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 12:10
I just bought a Cullman Magnesit 35Nm, and it holds up to 66 pounds and only cost $160 from B&H. It's a very smooth ball head, and it's got a great fit and finish. If you look at the thread I made about it, you can see the pics of my gripped 40D/Bigmos, and other equipment, happily riding on top of the ball head.


Cullman Magnesit (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=675097)



It holds plenty of weight, and it's not some rinky-dink build, it's built pretty dang good. It's light too. On top of a carbon fiber tripod, it doesn't fell like it adds a lot of weight. Can't hurt to check it out. As far as plates, the joy of a ball head is that you don't really need an L-plate. The nature of the design of a ball head is to make the transition from landscape to portrait simply by pivoting the ball head down. No need to release the plate to flip the camera It's got a tension knob and it doesn't take a lot to create the perfect amount of friction.


Seems to me the best bang for the buck is the best ball head you can get for the money you want to spend. $160 isn't a lot of money for a top-notch ball head, especially when you consider the higer-priced alternatives.

argyle
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 17:05
If you plan on expanding your system over time, then definitely get an A-S compatible setup such as that offered by RRS, Kirk, etc. Personally, I'd avoid any "system" that requires proprietary camera plates just because of the limitations that they impose.