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View Full Version : What Ballhead would be best for Macro/Still Life? My 322RC2 is driving me crazy!


XraySpecs
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 17:17
I have a Manfrotto 322RC2 Horizontal Grip Ball Head that is not very old and not really used very much. I take about 70% of my photos of Macro or Still life and I am not happy with this ballhead. In a nutshell the grip is shifting/moving once set, the ball is not moving it is the twist part of the grip. I have tried to tighten the friction up and it still slips/shifts and I really don't have a very heavy setup. I am using a 50D, 100mm Macro lens, extension tubes, and an Adorama rail. The only other head I have used was a three way head, so I don't have much experience with just plain ballheads. I am also trying to keep the price under $150.00. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

ben_r_
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 17:25
Have you looked at the Bogen 410 geared head? That was an awesome head for macro work. Slap a focusing rail on it like the velbon and your set!

katodog
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 17:35
For the best and most accurate macro, a geared head is the only way to go. But, they are a bit costly. I just bought a Cullman Magnesit ball head that can hold up to 66 pounds. The joy of that is that it'll hold anything lighter than that a lot stronger than ball heads designed for lighter load. It wasn't expensive, $160, and it holds my Sigma 180mm macro and a macro rail perfectly.


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/katodog/Cull007.jpg

Greg_C
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 17:49
I think you are going to have to consider moving to the Arca Swiss system. The Manfrotto Ballheads just can't cut it for this super accurate type of work. You need to look at the Markins or Really Right Stuff brands.

I swapped from a Manfrotto 488RC2 to the RRS BH-55. Read the review here. http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=625719
http://www.steadyhands.net/review/image40167.jpg

blair6878
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 17:51
For the best and most accurate macro, a geared head is the only way to go. But, they are a bit costly. I just bought a Cullman Magnesit ball head that can hold up to 66 pounds. The joy of that is that it'll hold anything lighter than that a lot stronger than ball heads designed for lighter load. It wasn't expensive, $160, and it holds my Sigma 180mm macro and a macro rail perfectly.


That looks like industrial. Like something from a machine shop. Like a mill head.

katodog
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 18:01
That's the macro rail. here's a few shots of the ball head by itself...


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/katodog/Cull001.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/katodog/Cull003.jpg

blair6878
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 18:11
How much is this one rated to hold?

katodog
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 18:12
66 pounds. And it'll hold it I'm sure. If it holds the Sig and macro rail without any issues, and it holds my Stellarvue 25x85mm binoculars with no problems, it'll hold any camera gear no sweat.

blair6878
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 18:18
That might have been what I needed. I just got a Canon 400mm IS and placed it on an Amvona ball head (rated at 39.6 lbs) that seemed to hold it well. I began to look for something more industrial but it does not look like I will be keeping the lens anyhow. Just isn't in the financial cards right now.

katodog
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 21:18
I don't think a 400mm would be any problems at all. While Amvona made some great stuff, they aren't going to come close to the capacity of the Cullman. I have a DynaTran 858 and a monopod, and they're great kit, I might even put the Cullman on the 858 since it's so heavy. But, the ball head that came with my monopod is a turd with crap on it. It won't hold my Bigmos without some serious torquing of the lock knob, so it's probably going to wind up on third string. The great thing about the Cullman is the tension knob: I can adjust the tension enough to where the gear doesn't slip, without locking the lock knob. The ball moves pretty smooth, but I might pull it apart and hit it with some Teflon grease for good measure. Can't be too cautious with moving parts.

The Cullman holds a gripped 40D/Bigmos combo, plus what I've already shown, and if I was to really want to test the ball head out I'd put something like the camera gear and the binos on at the same time. It's easy to do since I have plenty of gear and dovetails from my astro gear left over. But, as long as it does what I want it to, I'm happy. And it looks so far like it'll do more than I need, which is what I was looking for.

XraySpecs
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 21:42
I read several reviews on the Cullman & the Bogen 410 and for the most part they were very positive. The thing that leans me toward the Cullman is the freedom of a ballhead and not having three different adjustments to worry with.

blair6878
9th of April 2009 (Thu), 22:02
I don't think a 400mm would be any problems at all. While Amvona made some great stuff, they aren't going to come close to the capacity of the Cullman....... And it looks so far like it'll do more than I need, which is what I was looking for.

Yes, the Amvona worked well. However, like you, I wanted something that would do more that I needed. I am selling the lens so my smaller lens will not be an issue for the Amvona any more.

XraySpecs
16th of April 2009 (Thu), 16:21
Have you looked at the Bogen 410 geared head? That was an awesome head for macro work. Slap a focusing rail on it like the velbon and your set!

I can't decide between the two ball heads.....For those who own the Bogen 410 how does it preform outside, I mean is it a big deal to just "USE" it or do you have to mess around with the knobs alot before you can frame an object? Thanks!!!

SkipD
16th of April 2009 (Thu), 16:28
I can't decide between the two ball heads.....For those who own the Bogen 410 how does it preform outside, I mean is it a big deal to just "USE" it or do you have to mess around with the knobs alot before you can frame an object? Thanks!!!You can either crank on one of the knobs to move an axis or twist the the funny-looking handle (at the inside end of each of the knobs) to totally release the lock on that axis while you hold the handle turned (about a quarter-turn). That lets you get a rough-in of your position very quickly and then you use the knob for fine adjustment. It all works quite well when you get used to it. It isn't as fast as a ball head, but there are definitely times when I choose to use my geared head.

XraySpecs
16th of April 2009 (Thu), 18:03
So basically the geared head is used about the same way a three-way/non-ballhead would work.?.

SkipD
16th of April 2009 (Thu), 18:47
So basically the geared head is used about the same way a three-way/non-ballhead would work.?.Sort of.... It has a control for each of three axes. However, unless you're holding one of the release knobs in the release position (they are spring loaded to go back to geared when you let go), the head is always locked tight in whatever position it's in. You either release an axis or rotate the knob that moves it with the gears.

None of the axes can be left loose (with your hands off the rig) like a conventional 3-way head or a ball head. There's no slipping at all.