Shooting a concert with a 20D

[jawhite]

Just came across this forum and I'm glad I did! It's full of excellent info!!

I will be shooting an outdoor concert in a couple of weeks. The concert will begin during the day and go past dark. The stage will have standard concert type lighting with blue, green and red lamps. If I am shooting right in front of the stage with a Canon 20D what type of flash should I use and what would be the best settings to shoot at? I normally do scenic photography so this totally new to me. Currently I have no addon flashes, just the standard built-in flash on the 20D.

Thanks for your suggestions!!

Jeff

[EricKonieczny]

Search the baords for concert photography also, tons of info.


I would not use the built in flash at all. I would go full manua with the fastest shutter speeds to capture some nice still shots, and then soem slower shutter speeds to capture more light and the feeling of the concert

What lense(s) do you have?


If you can get a Canon external flash use the slow synch function and Bulb mode on the camera.

[jawhite]

I have an 18-55mm, 55-200mm and a macro. I planned on buying a flash for this shoot. Which one would you suggest?

Thanks for the tips!

[Mike H]

Be sure to check out Pekka's fine photos of a similar event at the link below. He has a complete equipment list that you'll find helpful.

http://photography-on-the.net/gallery/list.php?exhibition=12

[jawhite]

PERFECT Mike!!! Thanks!!

[Mike H]

PERFECT Mike!!! Thanks!!

You're welcome. I have found one technic that always works: when in doubt about equipment choices or technics, shamelessly copy what Pekka does. :-)

Mike H

[Phil V]

Flash will kill any lighting effects that you can see, if you want to buy something for the event try a fast tele lens, 85 1.8, 135 2.8 are both relatively cheap and will give excellent results.

[eosster]

Flash will kill any lighting effects that you can see, if you want to buy something for the event try a fast tele lens, 85 1.8, 135 2.8 are both relatively cheap and will give excellent results.
Yep I agree with you, I would recommend EF 85mm F/1.8 also.

[tacos3]

Once the sun goes down, flash may not be allowed, depending on your venue. For indoor night concerts I use ISO 1600 and any lens 2.8 or faster. I also try not to shoot any slower than 1/160. Gel lights are difficult to white balance prior to shooting so I try to adjust in post processing. I always shoot RAW.

Here are some of my results: http://baysidepictures.smugmug.com/gallery/430052/3/16960912

Your results may vary.

Good Luck,

Darren

[gillyworld]

If your are going to use flash, just use it as fill-in, underexpose the flash by 2-3 stops

These were taken on a 10D mostly at 800 or 1600 ISO

http://www.gillyworld.com/ee15/list.php?exhibition=82

http://www.gillyworld.com/ee15/index.php?groupid=16

Alan

[tacos3]

Nice images Alan. I am impressed with the sharpness at those shutter speeds. 1/30 handheld in low light....wow.

Darren

[Metalphotographer]

Wow, you folks are lucky to get such good lighting and do a darn good job of exploiting it. Most of the venues I shoot at only light from behind the performers and if they decide on a little front lighting they feel obligated to make it red only. My concert shots are all posted at http://www.gravemusic.com/ however I have only been using an SLR (20d) since the end of last year. I am looking forward to a chance to shoot a well lit show with it sometime :)

[Muffin Princess]

I very very rarely shoot concerts with a flashgun, kills all athmosphere! On my 1D, I shoot wide open at ISO1600 with a 70-200 f2.8 L IS.

As you can see with these two, without the flash the colours are much more vivid, yet with it the shot loses its edge. If you have to use a flash, consider splashing out on a 580EX, awesome flashgun!

http://eclipse.smugmug.com/photos/18942931-L.jpg
PS. Crap quality version of the shot!

http://eclipse.smugmug.com/photos/15689981-L-1.jpg

[Incomplete Pete]

Ah crap, that was me forgetting to sign out of girlfriend's account!

[FlyingPete]

[QUOTE=Muffin Princess]I very very rarely shoot concerts with a flashgun, kills all athmosphere! On my 1D, I shoot wide open at ISO1600 with a 70-200 f2.8 L IS.
[QUOTE]

70-200 f/2.8L is a hell of a lens for concerts, one of my team had one this year, next year I am hiring one specifically for the job!

The 'Nifty Fifty' is another great lens for concert shooting, it is currently my lens of choice due to its low light performance.

[kufel]

Just remember one thing: white balance....
Forget about "Auto".... when shooting after dark with avail. lights - select Tungsten (the bulb icon). if you use flash even as a fill in - switch to flash, otherwise - all blue. shoot in raw, to make white balance correction easier, I use C1Pro for conversion. I was shooting cpl of concerts with 70-200 2.8 IS and 50 1.8 at ISO640 on 1DMkII. Obviously you have to use 800 with 20D. If you can fit monopod or tripod at your standing location, 800 should cut it. I will post link to my shots once I get the webserver up and running again...

[FlyingPete]

Just remember one thing: white balance....
Forget about "Auto".... when shooting after dark with avail. lights - select Tungsten (the bulb icon). if you use flash even as a fill in - switch to flash, otherwise - all blue. shoot in raw, to make white balance correction easier, I use C1Pro for conversion. I was shooting cpl of concerts with 70-200 2.8 IS and 50 1.8 at ISO640 on 1DMkII. Obviously you have to use 800 with 20D. If you can fit monopod or tripod at your standing location, 800 should cut it. I will post link to my shots once I get the webserver up and running again...

I find shooting on 'Cloudy' white balance most effective except for house lights, the stage lights tend to run a higher temperature than normal tungsten, of RAW will enable you to get the best results.

[taojones]

I just did a concert, flash wasn't allowed although I did take some and they came out fine using a 420....the link below has some of the shots I took in M mode 1/200 f4 with a 70-200f4... 2.8f would be better...plus shoot in raw..taojones

http://taojones.fotopic.net/c493579.html

[photobuff]

Great pics, Taojones! I love that one of Bo Diddley in the chair....awesome. I have played guitar for 20 years so can appreciate your subjects;) REM seemed out of place to me, though........but, they are cool pics, no the less


Steve

[tim]

Don't use a flash, use a fast lens, the 50mm F1.8 is ideal if you can get close enough. If you want more closeups the 70-200 F2.8 IS is ideal but very, very expensive, and you might want a wide lens for whole stage shots.

This tutorial (http://www.photo.net/learn/concerts/mirarchi/concer_1.htm) will be invaluable.

[IainB]

[QUOTE=taojones]I just did a concert, flash wasn't allowed although I did take some and they came out fine using a 420....the link below has some of the shots I took in M mode 1/200 f4 with a 70-200f4... 2.8f would be better...plus shoot in raw..taojones

These are great! What ISO? I am planning some to shoot at a classical concert rehearsal - no flash allowed. I have the 70-200 F4L, the Tamron 28-70 2.8 and the 50 1.8. Lighting will be spots and overhead, all white.

[RockSlut]

These are great! What ISO? I am planning some to shoot at a classical concert rehearsal - no flash allowed. I have the 70-200 F4L, the Tamron 28-70 2.8 and the 50 1.8. Lighting will be spots and overhead, all white.

I'd suggest that you start with your Tamron 28-75mm at ISO 1600. I usually start shooting in Av at f/2.8 and see how the camera meters the shutterspeed. If too slow then bump your ISO to 3200. If by some crazy stretch you are getting a fast shutterspeed then you can either drop the ISO to 800 or bump the aperture narrower.

If you can't get a decent shutterspeed with the Tamron then your fallback is the very capable 50mm f/1.8.

The 70-200mm f/4 is a very capable lens from everything that I have heard (I've never used one), however unless you have a lot of light then you will probably struggle to get a usable shutterspeed, especially without a flash.

Also, if the rules are "no flash" make sure that you honour them. Photographers who break those rules close the doors for the future.

[taojones]

Hi Iain most were shot with 1600IS0 and if the ligth allowed 800...they were shot in raw and have all gone through rawshooter a fantastic bit of free software...taojones

[IainB]

Rockslut and Taojones, good stuff! Appreciate your suggestions.

[tim]

I'm going to point out the link to the tutorial I made on the previous page again, it really is an excellent and in-depth lesson on concert photography.

[TonyKInTexas]

I would not use a flash. I am shooting concerts for a local group and using ISO 800 @ f4 with a shutter speed of between 1/30 and 1/60 usually works.

A flash will be distracting to others in the audience AND if the venue has a no camera policy, using the flash could lead to troubles.

I have an 18-55mm, 55-200mm and a macro. I planned on buying a flash for this shoot. Which one would you suggest?

Thanks for the tips!

[kufel]

As promissed, link to my pics, server is up finally:

http://199.43.182.211/Kombi/index.htm

I lied about ISO 640... They are 800 and 1000, exposure times between 1/10 and 1/125 sec., apertures 2.8 - 3.5 mostly.

[soundguy]

Most of the venues I shoot at only light from behind the performers and if they decide on a little front lighting they feel obligated to make it red only.

Hi Chris.

You should have shot more at Neener's Pub for a change of pace. My obligatory front cans were 3 badly-aimed DYS Pars with faded, mismatched cyan filters. :)


BTW, I just horse-traded for a 10D. Got any lenses for sale?

[raylks]

The lens selection will depend on how far away between you and the artist. My experience is that even I was only 10 rows of seats away from the artist, I still need to use my 300mm lens so that I take a close-up shots of the artists. Unless you are very close, say, you are within 3 rows, then you may use 70-200mm L to reach.

Also take care of the WB setting of the camera. The color temperature of the concert is changing all the time. So I recommend shooting in daylight WB so that the warmth of the light can be preseved.

This is taken in daylight WB, EF 300mm f4.0L, wide open:

http://210.245.164.161/albums3/raylks/leoku/CRW_8716.jpg

[McGinnis]

This is kinda a dumb question but.....I will be shooting a wedding for a friends friend the end of May (the wedding will be inside and the reception will be outside, I've not gotten the rules from the church yet....so this may be an invalid question anyway) , I've just moved from 35mm to digital and the flash I've always used does not work anymore. What do I do? I'm on kinda a tight budget but I'm willing to spend what I need to. Also is it better to have 2 2 GB cards or 1 4 GB card? I've heard both and don't understand....like I said, I'm all new to the digital world. My camera is the 20D. Also...where is the best place to buy flashes?

[tim]

1) 420EX from http://bhphotovideo.com
2) 2*2GB cards is better, that way if a card gets lost/broken you lose half as many photos.

[cappy27]

Dumb question, but how do you set your camera ( I have a 20D ) to shoot RAW ?

[gillyworld]

RTFM !!

Its in the Menu under Quality which should be set to RAW. Then use P,TV,AV or M modes

Alan

[cappy27]

Would love to read the XXXX manual, but I have an 18 month old son to look after and a 12 hour a day job, so my time has been extremely limted as of late. I appreciate the answer, though.

Bob

[cappy27]

Is shooting in the RAW format best for post-production or is there another reason ? I only have the PS 2.0 intro software that came with the camera, so I am sure that there is a much better version available.

[tim]

There are a few reasons to shoot RAW, mostly it's about flexability:
- Potentially better quality (though if you get the photo right in-camera the JPG it produces is good).
- You can fix white ballance later.
- You can fix underexposure or overexposure (within some limits) much more easily than with a JPG.

There are probably other advantages too.

[93octane]

taojonesl were all those pictures in your gallery taken hand held or did you use a tripod/monopod??? They came out really good and sharp. You used the 70-200 F4 L right??

[cappy27]

Thanks, Tim !

I appreciate your response,
cappy