Getting the exposure right

[roebuck]

After reading all the great lighting threads I have just managed to set up my own hot lights studio using two “Depot lights” one a 1000W and the other a 500W and bouncing both off two reflecting surfaces (one a old slide screen and the other a gold reflector).

With each set at 45 degrees I managed to get some half decent portraits with a surprisingly even light (one surface mustn’t be reflecting as much as the other). My next set up was to use only the 1000W as a main light off the slide screen and with the gold reflector close in to the subject as the fill, this gave me some nice modelling with soft shadows on the reflector side.

To my question, how do you go about getting the exposure right using only the camera (Canon EOS 300D) and the resulting histogram? I seemed to be about a stop under this is easily rescued with raw but I would rather get right in the beginning. Any ideas guys…

[tim]

The obvious answer is to increase your aperture size, or to use a slower shutter speed (exposure compensation). You could try a different metering mode too, though I forget what modes the 300D has (if any?).

[scottbergerphoto]

Similiar to the same way you would if you were using ambient light:.
1. Slower shutter speed
2. wider aperture.
3. move the lights closer to the subject. (ye old inverse square law)

[Ken Fong]

Not sure if this will work, but remember that your meter will render for medium grey (Zone V). Switch to manual mode and set your aperture to F8 or F11. Assuming you are using partial metering...whatever is the closest thing you have to spot metering on the 300D...meter on your subject's skin and get the shutter time, then add 1 stop (overexpose 1 stop) to slam the skin into Zone VI (assuming your subject is fair skinned.)

[roebuck]

Thanks to you all for your responses.
On my last attempt on the weekend with the studio lights I did use the camera in manual mode, first setting the aperture say f5.6 then setting the shutter till I had the histogram over to the right and this gave a reasonable result still needing some exposure adjustment in ACR.
Next time I'll try Ken's suggestion and step in close and take a spot meter reading off the skin nearest to the main light.

[Ken Fong]

Well, I tried this metering method on my wife and it appeared to work. The results match the the same setting as what the gray card told me...so my wife has zone VI skin. I even compared it with an incidental meter, and was close within 1/4 stop. So the spot-on-skin-then-add-one seems like a nice quick way to get it done.

[scottbergerphoto]

Well, I tried this metering method on my wife and it appeared to work. The results match the the same setting as what the gray card told me...so my wife has zone VI skin. I even compared it with an incidental meter, and was close within 1/4 stop. So the spot-on-skin-then-add-one seems like a nice quick way to get it done.
Thats an old photographers trick. If you are out and about, use your camera to take a reading off your caucasoid hand and add one stop. You have to adjust based on complexion. If your skin is darker add less, if it's lighter(pasty white) add more.

[Ken Fong]

Hey, that's great. If my wife's complexion is the same as mine, I can do my own test and stop adjustments in advance and then leave my gray card at home. I never thought of using my own hand as the card.
thanks!

[Jon]

Most people can use the palms of their hand as a grey card substitute as Scott said. You don't even have to be caucasoid. It's important to use the palm of your hand. The melanin levels on the back of your hand, or other parts of your body, will vary depending on tanning levels, but people's palms are generally very low in melanin.