Best way to trigger alienbees ?

[cmM]

So far I've been setting the monolight as optical slave and using my 550EX on camera. It's ok sometimes, but a lot of times I get inconsistent results and it's pissing me off now.

How do you do it? why?

[redbutt]

So far I've been setting the monolight as optical slave and using my 550EX on camera. It's ok sometimes, but a lot of times I get inconsistent results and it's pissing me off now.

I was just trying this last night, and it was a massive failure. My normal method is to use a sync cord to one light and let the slave trippers to the rest of the work. I got the remote one setup too, but it is not very consistent either...dunno if it's bad or what, but sync cable has been bullet proof so far.

[Digital Prophet]

You I have been wondering about this myself since I am thinking (still) about getting a set of Bees. I had kind of assumed that depending on the set-up that the "slaving" tech might not be the best idea. Then I was thinking about the Remote One (http://www.alienbees.com/wireless.html), so it is good to hear that isn't fool proof (now I won't think about it anymore). But what about the Four Channel Wired Remote (http://www.alienbees.com/wired.html)? Does anyone have experience with this?

It just seems like perhaps this would be a more "stable" technology and might provide more consistent results. But hey, what do I know?

- Digital Prophet -

[cmM]

I was just trying this last night, and it was a massive failure. My normal method is to use a sync cord to one light and let the slave trippers to the rest of the work. I got the remote one setup too, but it is not very consistent either...dunno if it's bad or what, but sync cable has been bullet proof so far.
Do you use a hot shoe adapter? (for the sync cord)

http://www.paramountcords.com/images/MFHS.jpg

[cmM]

is a wein safe sync a good thing to have?

[Headcase650]

Yeah the wein safe is good but its not needed for alien bees, they have a trigger of 6 volts so a normal $10 hotshoe to pc adapter would be fine.

[defordphoto]

The Bees come with a basic synch to PC cable that works with the camera right out of the box. And yes, no voltage worries with the Bees. I haven't had time to do much with my setup, but the PWs have been flawless so far. Attach PW to main light and slave the others. I bought the PWs for other uses too, and had considered trying slaving all three lights off the 550, but I heard it was hit or miss sometimes and wanted reliability. I also just ordered the PW-compatible module for my Sekonic 358 so that will also be a nice touch.

I also read on several forums that the AB control units weren't that great, so I went with manual light control (adjust all lights on the unit itself) and the PWs. I figured once the lights were tuned with the 358 (for each shoot) that little would change for that particular shoot that couldn't be fine-tuned for via camera settings.

So far it's been hella fun, but I haven't shot anything worth publishing. Yet.

Ever-learning. I love this art.

[Vegas Poboy]

I have a set of Bee's 800 & A White lighting 1600 for about a year using the 10D & 20D. With the 10D I used the sync cord with the Safe Sync, never had a problem. With the 20D I just plug the pc cord in and it works fine. Had some trouble using the safe sync but Wanting to be a little free while shooting I invested into the pocket wizards and I won't go back to sync cords again (Except Backup) I purchased the kit at first and now getting ready to get a receiver for each light. I also have the remote trigger for my light meter the combo is great.

[cmM]

thanks a lot for the replies.... I think i'll skip the safe sync, i'll find a better use for $60 :-P

[redbutt]

Do you use a hot shoe adapter? (for the sync cord)

http://www.paramountcords.com/images/MFHS.jpg

Nope...I just plug the sync cord right into the PC socket on my 1D MkII. But, now I'm itching to try the the pocket wizards. I'm going to give the remote one one more shot though....and hook it up so that I'm just controlling the flash output...not plugging in the sync cords to anything but the main light...and letting the slave trippers hande the rest. I think that may work. Overall though...I love the lights. This was taken using two AB 800s with bounce umbrellas.

[chtgrubbs]

I'm totally sold on radio slaves. I have been using Quantum slaves for over 15 years. I have lit large facilities where the slaved units were completely hidden and too far away to optically trigger. I have put light units in offices and photographed them from another building across the street with radio slaves. I don't like being tethered to the flash units with a cord. Too much danger of pulling over a stand by mistake.

[cmM]

I don't like being tethered to the flash units with a cord. Too much danger of pulling over a stand by mistake.
:oops:
I knocked over one of my lights one day like that ... fell on the softbox, so it still works properly :)... still, I DEFFINITELY see your point

[JoeTampa]

Pocket Wizards. Only.

[Gary H]

Easy and works every time.

[Bruce Foreman]

So far I've been setting the monolight as optical slave and using my 550EX on camera. It's ok sometimes, but a lot of times I get inconsistent results and it's pissing me off now.

How do you do it? why?

I have the Digital Rebel (300D) which has no PC socket. The standard type hotshoe adapter works fine most of the time but on occasion mine make less than perfect contact, or the PC cord makes less than perfect contact.

So one method that has not failed me is to use a small dedicated external flash in the camera shoe, set to manual and lowest power setting, aimed at the ceiling (or side wall if the camera is held in "portrait" orientation) and this has never failed to trigger my AB800's.

[SkipD]

I've been using a set of "Bees" for some time. When using them, it makes absolutely no sense whatsoever to use a flash on the camera to trigger them. You lose control of the lighting situation that way (position, control of softening of the light, etc.). I always either trigger one off the camera with a wired connection and slave the others from it or use the Four-Channel Wired Remote.

The Four-Channel Wired Remote is a little much for a close-in setup, but when I am doing a setup with the lights higher than I can reach or spaced apart more than in my home studio, it is the perfect solution. The fact that the lights trigger through it isn't the advantage. The advantage of the unit is the ability to tweak all the light settings from one place. Works like a charm. You can replace the cables that are supplied with custom ones that you make using conventional 4-wire telephone cable and crimp-on connectors.