Which B+W 77mm Circular Polarizer?

[bzollinger]

I've narrowed down my descion for a circular polarizer for my new 10-22mm lens to two B+W filters. It's between the:

*B+W Slim version for $67
Or
*B+W Kaeseman Circular Polarizer Multi-Resistant Coating (MRC) Slim version for $146

The price difference is more than double, but is it worth it? My shooting conditions might not warrant the Kaeseman build, but I'm sure that the MRC coating is great for IQ and durability.

I guess the real question is how good or bad is the entry level B+W slim polarizer? Does anyone have experience with either?


Thanks for the help and input,
B Zollinger

[Jon]

The first one isn't multi-coated. Case closed, IMO. You don't want a filter that's not multi-coated unless there's no other option.

[souporman]

I've narrowed down my descion for a circular polarizer for my new 10-22mm lens to two B+W filters. It's between the:

*B+W Slim version for $67
Or
*B+W Kaeseman Circular Polarizer Multi-Resistant Coating (MRC) Slim version for $146

The price difference is more than double, but is it worth it? My shooting conditions might not warrant the Kaeseman build, but I'm sure that the MRC coating is great for IQ and durability.

I guess the real question is how good or bad is the entry level B+W slim polarizer? Does anyone have experience with either?


Thanks for the help and input,
B Zollinger

Do you really need the slim version? I bought the MRC Slim one and have regretted it ever since. I hate the little cap that it comes with (you can't use a regular lens cap) and you also can't attach any other filters (cokin/lee/etc) to the slim version.

But yea, buy the coated option as Jon said.

[canonloader]

You can not use a non-multi-coated filter of any kind on a digital camera. Here is just one example why (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=218003).

[bzollinger]

Do you really need the slim version? I bought the MRC Slim one and have regretted it ever since. I hate the little cap that it comes with (you can't use a regular lens cap) and you also can't attach any other filters (cokin/lee/etc) to the slim version.

But yea, buy the coated option as Jon said.

So the coating really makes that big of a difference? I figured as much, but like to hear individual opinions.

So whether the non-coated CPL is B+W or Tiffen is doesn't matter, they are inferior.

That's another thing, I'm not 100% sure that I need the slim version. I'm putting it on my 10-22mm, but it's on a crop sensor XSI.

Do you think I need the slim version for the XSI? If I get the regular version, it might vingette a little at 10mm, but either I shoot at 11mm or crop out or clone out the dark corners, right?

[souporman]

So the coating really makes that big of a difference? I figured as much, but like to hear individual opinions.

So whether the non-coated CPL is B+W or Tiffen is doesn't matter, they are inferior.

That's another thing, I'm not 100% sure that I need the slim version. I'm putting it on my 10-22mm, but it's on a crop sensor XSI.

Do you think I need the slim version for the XSI? If I get the regular version, it might vingette a little at 10mm, but either I shoot at 11mm or crop out or clone out the dark corners, right?

You should be fine with the regular version on that combo but someone else may chime in who knows for sure.

I keep a normal UV filter on my 16-35 (1.3 crop camera) and have no issues unless I stack my cokin filter holder on top and shoot at 16mm (and then only if the filter stack isn't square).

[bzollinger]

You should be fine with the regular version on that combo but someone else may chime in who knows for sure.

I keep a normal UV filter on my 16-35 (1.3 crop camera) and have no issues unless I stack my cokin filter holder on top and shoot at 16mm (and then only if the filter stack isn't square).


This is good to know. If I get the regular version there won't be any cap issues, and a could stack a ND if I wanted. It also seems that the regular version might be easier to work with because it's a little thicker.

[ben_r_]

You shouldnt need to get a slim filter for that lens. Just stick with the B+W F-Pro filters and youll be fine. The slim ones are a pain as you cant stick the canon lens cap on them and it makes them very difficult to work with as the B+W cap they come with is terrible and never stays on.

[jrsforums]

This is good to know. If I get the regular version there won't be any cap issues, and a could stack a ND if I wanted. It also seems that the regular version might be easier to work with because it's a little thicker.

First, a CP is thicker than a UV filter. Second, the 10-22 is equivalent to a 16-35 on a full frame, not 1.3 crop.

I don't remember back to when I had a 10-22 if a regular CP would cause any vignetting. However, I am pretty sure that stacking an ND would at the wider end.

If you think you need a slim CP with front threads, Hoya makes them. I believe the new 'HD' line has improved coatings over their 'Digital Pro1' line (which was a quality reduction from the original 'Pro1' line).

[Balliolman]

MRC, you wont regret buying it.

[bzollinger]

Thanks for info everyone it's good to hear your input.

Looks like a non-slim, MRC coated, Kaeseman version can be had from Maxsaver.net for $140. The non-Kaeseman version is only $10-15 less.

However the new Hoya is about $95 which is a pretty good savings.

Can anyone speak to the cons or pros of these two filters? Any opinions on what you'd buy today if you needed one or the other?

thanks,
BZollinger

[msowsun]

What do you guys think about the Kenko 77mm PRO 1 Digital WIDE-BAND Circular Pol Filter for $53.76 ?

It is supposed to be the same as the Hoya PRO 1. http://maxsaver.net/bw82mmuv010hazefiltercoatednewf-pro-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-8-1-7-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-1-1-1--66.aspx

[claybuster]

What do you guys think about the Kenko 77mm PRO 1 Digital WIDE-BAND Circular Pol Filter for $53.76 ?

It is supposed to be the same as the Hoya PRO 1. http://maxsaver.net/bw82mmuv010hazefiltercoatednewf-pro-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-8-1-7-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-1-1-1--66.aspx
I've been asking about that same filter and would like to know. Also what does the "wide band" mean?

[kingdaddy]

I don’t understand why anyone would want to stack a ND filter on a CPL since a CPL does what a ND filter will do anyway, plus stacking is a bad Idea from my understanding.

Anyway, I have the B+W Kaeseman for my 10-22 and 100-400L and it’s a great filter but very difficult to thread on and as everyone has mentioned the cap is a poor design. However I’m not a cap **** like most, I don’t put the lens in a bag that has anything in it that would scratch it and have never found a reason to cap any lens when walking around with it. I also found that I don’t need or use a CPL near as much as I thought I would, their not really that useful and I almost always shoot outdoors.

[argyle]

Thanks for info everyone it's good to hear your input.

Looks like a non-slim, MRC coated, Kaeseman version can be had from Maxsaver.net for $140. The non-Kaeseman version is only $10-15 less.

However the new Hoya is about $95 which is a pretty good savings.

Can anyone speak to the cons or pros of these two filters? Any opinions on what you'd buy today if you needed one or the other?

thanks,
BZollinger

For the $10-$15 difference, it would make sense to get the Kaesemann version of the CPL. You need to be careful with the Hoya filters...lots of folks here complain that the Hoya coatings make it difficult to clean the filter without leaving smudges. Also, there's the reliability factor...one or more models of the Hoya CPL's have been reported by many to come apart unexpectedly due to problems with the retaining ring (not saying that yours will, but just a few things to think about). Go with the B+W...you won't be disappointed.

[bzollinger]

I don’t understand why anyone would want to stack a ND filter on a CPL since a CPL does what a ND filter will do anyway, plus stacking is a bad Idea from my understanding.

Anyway, I have the B+W Kaeseman for my 10-22 and 100-400L and it’s a great filter but very difficult to thread on and as everyone has mentioned the cap is a poor design. However I’m not a cap **** like most, I don’t put the lens in a bag that has anything in it that would scratch it and have never found a reason to cap any lens when walking around with it. I also found that I don’t need or use a CPL near as much as I thought I would, their not really that useful and I almost always shoot outdoors.

I'd only stack rarely if ever. But my ND is 6 stops and a CPL only gives 1-2 stops, so it's not exactly the same. But at wide angles I could see vingetting....

I used to use CPLs almost all the time even if my shot didn't include any sky because of the ability to cut glare on vegetation and other annoyances. I'll also be buying step up rings for my other three lenses so I can use the CPL on every lens in my bag.

So now it really comes down to the new Hoya HD or the B+W Kaeseman.... Ken Rockwell really likes the new Hoyas he did a write up on them last month. A lot of photographers really like the B+Ws.

[kingdaddy]

My B+W Kaeseman 77mm gives 2-3 stops, 2 min and I cant think of a situation I have been in yet that required 6-stops....wow, is that for shooting directly into the sun??

Maybe I'll find a need for that opne day, who knows.

[bzollinger]

My B+W Kaeseman 77mm gives 2-3 stops, 2 min and I cant think of a situation I have been in yet that required 6-stops....wow, is that for shooting directly into the sun??

Maybe I'll find a need for that opne day, who knows.

Are you talking about ND or CPL? For me the 6 stops ND is used for water effects only.

[kingdaddy]

CPL, which does a fine job for water. In fact water is what CPL does better then any other filter, that’s why fisherman and boaters exclusively use polarized sun glasses.

[argyle]

...Anyway, I have the B+W Kaeseman for my 10-22 and 100-400L and it’s a great filter but very difficult to thread on...

Why would it be any more difficult to thread on than any other filter? I don't have any problems with my Kaesemanns (and I have three different sizes).

[bohdank]

For what it's worth... I bought a Hoya Super HMC (slim) for my 10-22 and step up rings for a couple of my other lenses.

Used it for the first time last weekend and I can say it is extremely flare resistant and it's rather easy to clean (doesn't smudge). I understand the more recent Hoya's have a different coating which fixes the smearing problem.

The only downside, to me, with the slim filter is that it can be a real pain to remove from a stepup ring. They seem to want to bind at the slightest opportunity and it's hard to get any leverage with such a slim filter mount.

Other than that I would buy it again.

[bzollinger]

CPL, which does a fine job for water. In fact water is what CPL does better then any other filter, that’s why fisherman and boaters exclusively use polarized sun glasses.

I think we're talking about water in two different contexts. I'm looking to blur water for a "silky" effect with a ND filter, not look into the water for fish, rocks, etc..

Back to the topic, I think that the Hoya HD is the way to go. They've addressed some standing issues with older filters that seem to be superior to the B+W filter except for the exclusively sealed Kaeseman feature.

*It's smudge, stain, scratch, and shatter resistant
*It's got a threaded front end for caps and possibly another filter
*It's thin, but not super thin
*It doesn't stop down the light as much as other filter do
*It's about $50 cheaper than the B+W when ordered from overseas

Anything I'm missing here?

thanks for the info everyone,
BZ

[bzollinger]

CPL, which does a fine job for water. In fact water is what CPL does better then any other filter, that’s why fisherman and boaters exclusively use polarized sun glasses.

For what it's worth... I bought a Hoya Super HMC (slim) for my 10-22 and step up rings for a couple of my other lenses.

Used it for the first time last weekend and I can say it is extremely flare resistant and it's rather easy to clean (doesn't smudge). I understand the more recent Hoya's have a different coating which fixes the smearing problem.

The only downside, to me, with the slim filter is that it can be a real pain to remove from a stepup ring. They seem to want to bind at the slightest opportunity and it's hard to get any leverage with such a slim filter mount.

Other than that I would buy it again.

Thanks for the good info. I remember having similar issues with my old standard filters. It seems that the slim version would make it even harder.

[kingdaddy]

Why would it be any more difficult to thread on than any other filter? I don't have any problems with my Kaesemanns (and I have three different sizes).

Well because it has a very thin thread group and is very thin and hard to align. are your reguler filters as easy?
;)

[kingdaddy]

I think we're talking about water in two different contexts. I'm looking to blur water for a "silky" effect with a ND filter, not look into the water for fish, rocks, etc..

BZ



I didn’t realize that it could do such a thing, I always thought it was just for light control, guess I’ll have to try one.

[bzollinger]

I didn’t realize that it could do such a thing, I always thought it was just for light control, guess I’ll have to try one.

No worries, here's one of my favorite pictures I took with a ND filter. http://alaskanphotographs.com/Alaskan_Photographs/Categories/Pages/Water_files/Media/falls%20creek1%208x10/falls%20creek1%208x10.jpg?disposition=download

[JelleVerherstraeten]

Take a look at hvstar, much cheaper then everwhere else :-).

[kingdaddy]

No worries, here's one of my favorite pictures I took with a ND filter. http://alaskanphotographs.com/Alaskan_Photographs/Categories/Pages/Water_files/Media/falls%20creek1%208x10/falls%20creek1%208x10.jpg?disposition=download

I always thought that effect was done by shutter speed, I can get a very similer result without any filter, I must be missing something.

Nice Photo BTW.

[souporman]

I always thought that effect was done by shutter speed, I can get a very similer result without any filter, I must be missing something.

Nice Photo BTW.

It is done with shutter speed, but if you're already maxed out on your aperture (or don't want to stop down all the way) and still aren't getting a slow enough shutter speed you need a ND filter.

[bzollinger]

Take a look at hvstar, much cheaper then everwhere else :-).

This is where I ended up ordering it from last night! I can't wait to try it out. :D

Here's some interesting information about Hoya HD filters in the US and possibly why they are so much cheaper in HK.

http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoya_hd_filters.html (http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoya_hd_filters.html)

[kingdaddy]

It is done with shutter speed, but if you're already maxed out on your aperture (or don't want to stop down all the way) and still aren't getting a slow enough shutter speed you need a ND filter.

Or you could just use a CPL, right?

[souporman]

Or you could just use a CPL, right?

/sigh

Yes, if 2-3 stops were all you needed.

[kingdaddy]

/sigh

Yes, if 2-3 stops were all you needed.

After reading some more I can see where you would need a ND filters in some situations, but the 6 stop claim seems to be bunk. Every thing I have read says you cannot get more then 4 stops from any ND filter on the market. So if I needed 4 stops then I would need a ND4 filter.

Anyway I’m learning more about filters so this thread was good for me as I was actually in a situation once where I could have used 4 full stops. The claim about the water effect stumped me as it wasn’t clear that this was taken in very bright conditions.

[souporman]

After reading some more I can see where you would need a ND filters in some situations, but the 6 stop claim seems to be bunk. Every thing I have read says you cannot get more then 4 stops from any ND filter on the market. So if I needed 4 stops then I would need a ND4 filter.

Anyway I’m learning more about filters so this thread was good for me as I was actually in a situation once where I could have used 4 full stops. The claim about the water effect stumped me as it wasn’t clear that this was taken in very bright conditions.

He may just be confusing a .6 ND filter with a 6 stop filter. .6 is actually only 2 stops (.3, .6 and .9 filters are 1, 2 and 3 stops respectively), but there may be a 6 stop filter as well. If I need more than 3 stops, I simply stack them (which can result in colour casts using the cheap-o filters I have).

You can, in fact, buy 10 (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?ci=0&shs=77mm+B%26W+%23110+ND+3.0&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=jsp%2FRootPage.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t&Go.x=13&Go.y=13&Go=submit) stop (http://www.photoanswers.co.uk/Video-Tutorials/Search-Results/Camera-Techniques/How-to-use-a-10-stop-Neutral-Density-Filter/) ND filters, but that seems a little over the top for anything I shoot :)

[Jon]

An ND4 is two stops. ND filters are defined in several terms. There's a log density, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9. . . There's ND2, ND4, ND8 . . . And there's 1 stop, 2 stop 3 stop . . . 0.3=ND2=1 stop and so on. A 6 stop filter (1.8, ND64) or more can be helpful, in addition to getting smooth, flowing water, if you want to photograph something in a heavily-trafficked area. The long exposure possible with extreme ND levels means that transient objects, like people or vehicles, won't record on the image while the static buildings/landscape will. B&H for one stocks screw-ins up to 6 stops and rectangulars up to 7-8 stops. Singh Ray makes a variable 2-10 stop ND. If you're working in that range though, you'll want to double it with an IR cutoff filter. Since normal filters don't do such a good job filtering out IR light, the long exposures you get often result in a reddish/magenta cast.

[bzollinger]

The six stop claim/filter isn't bunk, and I'm not confused. I was misusing the ND6 term as a way to describe a 6 stop filter. The nomenclature for ND filters is confusing, compounded by the manufacturer’s choice of naming conventions. Here's a link to the filter I'm going to buy.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/8087-REG/B_W_65066534_77_mm_106_Neutral.html

Hoya doesn’t make a 6 stop filter but B+W does. I've owned a 3 stop in the past but want to go for a 6 stop this time around. As mentioned by souporman this will allow me to use a wider aperture and/or shoot in really bright environments (like snow with running water).

It will be the only ND filter I have so there won't be any stacking. A three stop filter is good in a lot of situations, but in my opinion there isn't as much wiggle room to compensate for exposure as there is with a 6 stop filter. Plus I want to do several second exposures during the day. Plus I'm learning more about hyperfocal distances, and the different "sweet spots" of my lenses typically aren't higher than f/11.

Have fun and happy shooting!

[bzollinger]

An ND4 is two stops. ND filters are defined in several terms. There's a log density, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9. . . There's ND2, ND4, ND8 . . . And there's 1 stop, 2 stop 3 stop . . . 0.3=ND2=1 stop and so on. A 6 stop filter (1.8, ND64) or more can be helpful, in addition to getting smooth, flowing water, if you want to photograph something in a heavily-trafficked area. The long exposure possible with extreme ND levels means that transient objects, like people or vehicles, won't record on the image while the static buildings/landscape will. B&H for one stocks screw-ins up to 6 stops and rectangulars up to 7-8 stops. Singh Ray makes a variable 2-10 stop ND. If you're working in that range though, you'll want to double it with an IR cutoff filter. Since normal filters don't do such a good job filtering out IR light, the long exposures you get often result in a reddish/magenta cast.

Good info and advice. These are some good examples of uses for 6 stop+ ND filters. I've got to try the traffic thing!

[maxblack]

I see some people posting that Hoya has had some quality issues in the past
and B+W has had none. Usually you get what you pay for. Cheaper is not always better.
My B+W Kaeseman (MRC) CPL and other B+W Pro F (MRC) Brass filters I own
feel more like a lens than a filter. The choice is always yours. :)

[DL.Photography]

I can vouch that the B+W 77mm KSM filter is great. Never tried the slim version but I can imagine how annoying it would be using the cap that came with the filter.

[bzollinger]

It'd be interesting to hear more about people's experience with the new Hoya HD CPL. It's somewhat new and expensive, but some people have got to own them. Most of the searches for it bring up classified ads.

BZ

[souporman]

An ND4 is two stops. ND filters are defined in several terms. There's a log density, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9. . . There's ND2, ND4, ND8 . . . And there's 1 stop, 2 stop 3 stop . . . 0.3=ND2=1 stop and so on. A 6 stop filter (1.8, ND64) or more can be helpful, in addition to getting smooth, flowing water, if you want to photograph something in a heavily-trafficked area. The long exposure possible with extreme ND levels means that transient objects, like people or vehicles, won't record on the image while the static buildings/landscape will. B&H for one stocks screw-ins up to 6 stops and rectangulars up to 7-8 stops. Singh Ray makes a variable 2-10 stop ND. If you're working in that range though, you'll want to double it with an IR cutoff filter. Since normal filters don't do such a good job filtering out IR light, the long exposures you get often result in a reddish/magenta cast.

Great info, thanks Jon. I always blamed my filters for the magenta cast when stacked, I'll have to look into the possibility that there are some IR issues at play.

The six stop claim/filter isn't bunk, and I'm not confused. I was misusing the ND6 term as a way to describe a 6 stop filter. The nomenclature for ND filters is confusing, compounded by the manufacturer’s choice of naming conventions. Here's a link to the filter I'm going to buy.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/8087-REG/B_W_65066534_77_mm_106_Neutral.html

Hoya doesn’t make a 6 stop filter but B+W does. I've owned a 3 stop in the past but want to go for a 6 stop this time around. As mentioned by souporman this will allow me to use a wider aperture and/or shoot in really bright environments (like snow with running water).

It will be the only ND filter I have so there won't be any stacking. A three stop filter is good in a lot of situations, but in my opinion there isn't as much wiggle room to compensate for exposure as there is with a 6 stop filter. Plus I want to do several second exposures during the day. Plus I'm learning more about hyperfocal distances, and the different "sweet spots" of my lenses typically aren't higher than f/11.

Have fun and happy shooting!

Sorry, didn't mean to imply that you were :)

That B+W filter looks nice, let us know how it works out!

[bzollinger]

This has been a pretty good, informative thread. The Hoya HD is on order, and I've learned more about ND filters too.

Thanks everyone!:-P

[[Hyuni]]

You shouldnt need to get a slim filter for that lens. Just stick with the B+W F-Pro filters and youll be fine. The slim ones are a pain as you cant stick the canon lens cap on them and it makes them very difficult to work with as the B+W cap they come with is terrible and never stays on.
dammit, I wish I read this post before I bought the slim version. Crap. haha
The B+W cap really isn't even a cap! It's just a plyable plasticy cover. There's nothing that keeps it on.

Eitherway, I just got my 67mm B+W MRC Slim C-Pol yesterday and took it for a spin.
Wow. Definately worth the investment.

[mäger]

Here's some interesting information about Hoya HD filters in the US and possibly why they are so much cheaper in HK.

http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoya_hd_filters.html (http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoya_hd_filters.html)
what does the page say?


PS: has anyone tested Hoya Super HMC Pro1 and Hoya HD side-by-side?

[bzollinger]

what does the page say?


PS: has anyone tested Hoya Super HMC Pro1 and Hoya HD side-by-side?

Essentially it talks about how the prices in the US for the Hoya HD filters are "fixed". Here's a thread on it.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=676486

I haven't tested the HMC against the HD but I've used the HD now for a few weeks and it's great! No vinetting on the 10-22, great light transmission, smooth operation, and no issues with the cap staying on.

[ed rader]

What do you guys think about the Kenko 77mm PRO 1 Digital WIDE-BAND Circular Pol Filter for $53.76 ?

It is supposed to be the same as the Hoya PRO 1. http://maxsaver.net/bw82mmuv010hazefiltercoatednewf-pro-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-8-1-7-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-1-1-1--66.aspx


i have the 82mm version and i like it just fine :D.

ed rader

[n2_space]

An ND4 is two stops. ND filters are defined in several terms. There's a log density, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9. . . There's ND2, ND4, ND8 . . . And there's 1 stop, 2 stop 3 stop . . . 0.3=ND2=1 stop and so on. A 6 stop filter (1.8, ND64) or more can be helpful, in addition to getting smooth, flowing water, if you want to photograph something in a heavily-trafficked area. The long exposure possible with extreme ND levels means that transient objects, like people or vehicles, won't record on the image while the static buildings/landscape will. B&H for one stocks screw-ins up to 6 stops and rectangulars up to 7-8 stops. Singh Ray makes a variable 2-10 stop ND. If you're working in that range though, you'll want to double it with an IR cutoff filter. Since normal filters don't do such a good job filtering out IR light, the long exposures you get often result in a reddish/magenta cast.
Would this work?

http://www.adorama.com/BW77UVIRW.html

I keep getting magenta cast using a 1.2 ND Hitech :(

[Jon]

Should. Both because it has the IR blocking component and because, IIRC, glass isn't as good at transmitting IR as resin plastics.

[n2_space]

Should. Both because it has the IR blocking component and because, IIRC, glass isn't as good at transmitting IR as resin plastics.
Thanks :) I guess I will have to order it sometime and give it a whirl.

[bzollinger]

Well I've had my Hoya HD CPL for a little while now and have been very happy. It pretty much stays on the 10-22, but I have put it on the 17-85mm with the adapter and that worked great too. I highly recommend the Hoya HD filter, if you get it for a good deal like maxsaver.net. Here are a few of my favorites with the new filter. What do you think?

http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/beluga.jpg

http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/birdpointrockgrooves.jpg

http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/savagerocks.jpg

[bzollinger]

Dang the color of the sky on the first one doesn't look so good on a different monitor. And the clouds in the third picture are blue?? I'll have to upload some better quality images and look into the blue clouds.

Can anyone give me some good guide lines for image to be linked to POTN? What size, res, and dimensions?

thanks,
Ben

[Jon]

Dang the color of the sky on the first one doesn't look so good on a different monitor. And the clouds in the third picture are blue?? I'll have to upload some better quality images and look into the blue clouds.

Can anyone give me some good guide lines for image to be linked to POTN? What size, res, and dimensions?

thanks,
Ben
Check the links in my signature . . .

[bzollinger]

Check the links in my signature . . .

Got it, thanks!

So I'm a little small on the 1024x1024 pixel size. If I wanted to optimize the viewing and quality I'd bring the long edge of these up to 1024 from around 850.

Do you guys regularly upload photos to the 1024 maximum?

thanks again,
Ben

[Jon]

Depends on what I'm posting the photo for, among other things. Often I'll post a smaller size.

[bzollinger]

I think that that size I posted above is pretty good, but I'm not real happy with the quality. So I think I'll try to stick to a size around 4.5 inches for the short side, but get as many pixels as I can in the 1024 limit.

This of course is mostly based on the first photo in this series I posted. There are too many artifacts for my liking.

Thanks for the info.

[atari1356]

Looks like hvstar is out of stock on the 77mm Hoya HD circular polarizer (I don't see it listed on their site).

Anybody happen to know much were they selling it for?

I'm trying to find one for a trip to Maine coming up... but the US prices are very expensive.

May end up ordering the B + W Kaesemann one, or just hold off until hvstar gets the Hoya ones back in stock if the price is right.

[Cyclop]

Go for the B+W Kaeseman (MRC) CPL filter. They are expensive, but well worth the quality.