View Full Version : polarizers
fishguts
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 18:27
ive seen them from 300 bucks to these linked below. is there that much diffrence? is the one in the link anygood?
http://cgi.ebay.com/86mm-CPL-CIRCULAR-POLARIZER-Polarized-Camera-Filter-PL_W0QQitemZ270359259795QQihZ017QQcategoryZ15217QQ tcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
bohdank
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 18:29
You get what you pay for.
argyle
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 19:46
Don't waste your money (or your time). As bohdank says, you get what you pay for...
fishguts
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 20:33
ok thanks.
bohdank
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 20:47
This place has just about the best prices.
http://maxsaver.net/
Look for the Hoya S-HMC range. I bought one recently and have no regrets.
katodog
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 21:04
Looking for a filter for that Bigmos, aren't you?? Have fun trying to find 86mm filters and not spend a small fortune. I went the cheap route for UV filters, but when it came to the CPL, I knew better. I bought a B&W filter from B&H. It cost $200, but it was well worth it. That's the best dang filter I've ever seen, and I've seen a boatload of filters, both photographic and astronomical. You can't do cheap on certain filters, and CPLs are no exception. I'm probably going to get another B&W for my 28-300mm L. Don't want to sell myself short with lenses that are of such great quality. Might as well use high-quality filters on them.
Tee Why
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 21:06
Don't bother getting a polarizer for a long supertelephoto lens like the bigmos. The lens is too slow and putting on a polarizer will slow the lens down even more by 2-3 stops.
fishguts
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 21:07
thanks for the link bohdank. yup kato thats exactly what im doing, she will be here in the am!
fishguts
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 21:09
i was wondering about that teewhy, would that be true even for brite landscapes?
ed rader
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 21:10
i was wondering about that teewhy, would that be true even for brite landscapes?
if you are using a tripod you'll be okay. did you buy this lens for landscapes?
ed rader
fishguts
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 21:28
no mostly wildlife.
bohdank
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 22:12
You're going to lose about 2 stops with a CPL which seems like it will hamper your ability to get sharp blur and motion free shots.
fishguts
14th of April 2009 (Tue), 22:23
ok, maybe i will drop that hunt for a wile. how much will it hamper my tamron 18 to 270?
bohdank
15th of April 2009 (Wed), 06:47
Same thing....another rather slow lens. It would make the lens virtually unusable at the long end, imo.
Tee Why
15th of April 2009 (Wed), 12:55
i was wondering about that teewhy, would that be true even for brite landscapes?
If you have enough light so that the shutter speed is fast enough, it should be ok. But a 500mm f8 (IIRC) lens needs a lot of light. If you are on a crop, and shooting at 500mm, then you may need around 1/800 sec shutter speed to prevent camera shake. The OS can give you about 2 stops or so, so you may get by with about 1/200 sec shutter speed.
If you can get about this much shutter speed, it may be enough. It's also hard to turn the polarizer to adjust it's effect with such a long lens if the the direction of the light is changing (b/c you are moving around or moving the camera at different directions) so it's not as easy to use it either.
Having said that, if you have enough light to prevent camera shake without going to a very high ISO, the polarizer may be fine. But I'd avoid one for a 86mm diameter that only goes for $21, that's really really cheap and I'm not sure what kind of quality that would provide. I would assume that it's not coated which may cause more flaring, I've heard of some cheap filters causing AF issues as well. I've also found that some cheap polarizers cause a bluish color cast that I don't see from more expensive ones.
In regards to it's effects on a 18-270, it may work better with the tammy if you use it on the wider end. All polarizers decrease light transmission by a factor of 2-3 stops. So you're shutter speeds will drop by a factor of two. If you are using a wider focal length, you don't need a higher shutter speed as a long focal length. If you are using a long focal length, shutter speeds tend to drop AND you need a higher shutter speed to prevent camera shake, so slowing the shutter speed down further by a factor or 2-3 can really make for slow shutter speeds and hence more chances of camera shake.
fishguts
15th of April 2009 (Wed), 17:09
thanks, i think i may hold off for now then, i do love bringing out the blues in my pics but dont want to hamper my lens by doing it.
bob-e i got her today!its great thank you cant wait to get out and play with it.
fishguts
16th of April 2009 (Thu), 09:43
got my new bigma and walk out front for a quick shot, looks pretty good asis.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/fishguts1/new%20camera/nbire.jpg
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