Gear - the small stuff!

[Luvntravln]

1D3 Small Stuff

Hi, I am putting together my Adorama order; these are a few last minute details that I would appreciate recommendations if there are any (yeah right; like this wonderful group doesn't have an opinion about everything photography!)

1. CompactFlash Cards: Brands and sizes; are you using cards larger than 4gb? I received an email from my brother that the Canon rep at the big annual photo show in Los Angeles recommended Transcend CF cards; 1/2 the price of Sandisk cards.

2. Batteries: Given the size I am planning a total of three for Antarctica. More?

3. LCD Protector: I use the ShieldZone on the 40D (great!); anyone using the Delkin pop-up shades?

4. Hand Grip: anyone using the Canon E-1 Hand strap in lieu of/in addition to a neck strap?

5. Wireless remote: anyone using the Adorama wireless/wired shutter release remote for any of their canon cameras - one unit fits all?

6. Right angle viewfinders: Those doing "near the ground" macro, are you using a right angle view finder, and if so, are you using the Canon version or a different version? Adorama has the Pro Optic.

7. Filter brands and cost: I have four different filter sizes: 58, 67, 77, and 82! Singh Ray makes sense for stationary tripod work one size fits all with simple adaptor rings for the P holder. What about HH work, for example, four separate polarizers?

Cheers, Jay

[bohdank]

1) I can vouch for Transcend cards. I have been using the 266x and just bought a 300x. All are 4 gig. I don't feel comfortable putting all my eggs in one basket with larger cards for the 40D.

2) I get > 400 shots out of a battery with the 40D so the choice is yours how many shots you think you'll be taking before an opportunity to recharge. i have 2 in ta grip and 2 charged spares.

3) don't use one. the 40D already has a protector over the LCD.

4) don't use one.

5) remote... bought the Phottix wireless one. Works well. No, the connector on the Canon body varies between models.

6) don't use one but sounds like a good idea for your intended use.

7) I bought 1 polarizer for my largest lens and step up rings for the rest of my lenses except the 70-200

[Jon]

4-8 GB are ample, but have a bunch, and let the camera roll over to the SD card if you can't change. I use SanDisk EIII or EIV. I trust them.
If you'll be able to charge them daily if needed, a total of 3 would be my suggestion. One in camera, one in warm pocket and one back charging during the day. Put that in the camera to start the next day, recharge the second overnight and the third can be filling up the next day. Swap the two you have with you as needed; they'll pick back up when warmed again.
Don't waste time or money on the LCD protector.
Unless you don't ever want to put the camera down, use the neck strap. The hand strap's inconvenient for portrait orientation too.
Anything other than the Digital Rebels takes the same connector for a remote. Unless you need wireless (and bear in mind that the cold won't be nice to small batteries either) pick up the corded wireless from the POTN Shop.
Right Angle Finder - well - you still have to get right down even with one for low angle shots. Might as well use Live View.
Unless you want to spend your time changing filters (in cold, with gloves) get a polarizer for each lens you expect to want to do polarizer shots with. The P rectangular will be too small for the 16-35 II (your 82 mm, I presume). You'd want the 4" (Cokin Z size) instead.
And plan something to keep your gear from getting condensation over and inside it when you go back inside. Also something to protect against windblown snow and/or sea spray. OpTech Rain Sleeves for throwaway or Kata E-702 would be my suggestions for the latter. A bunch of big plastic trash bags for the former - put the whole bag in it before coming back inside, and squeeze all the air you can out before fastening it.

[_aravena]

1) Transcends are great but Kingston's are cheap as well. They have 8GB 133x for $20 and a company I trust a bit more having had problems with transcend SD cards.

2) That's up to you and depends how often you use LV which kills your battery. If you don't and make sure it's not enable 3 extra should be fine.

3) Why?

4) No, because I don't have a grip. Waste of space and money unless you're at a gig and need to make sure your batteries never die which I haven't had a problem at yet without a grip. I do use hand strap with a neckstrap though so it's feasible and works.

5) I use a phottix one and it's awesome!!! also have a corded phottix. They were cheap enough, why not?

6) Never used my polorizer except as an ND filter once. Worked well as that. Other than that it's proved useless. Glad I didn't pay much for it.

6)Sure. I couldn't imagine spending that kind of money on something like that but I understand its uses and that really there's no other way. Almost like a monopoly unless you can get dirty. :lol:

7) I've only used my polorizer once as an ND filter and it worked great for that. Other than that it's never been touched. Never found a use for it.

[Luvntravln]

Thanks guys for answering; super high posters and you are still on line - cool!

3. LCD protector: you have all asked why and/or indicated that you do not do anything to keep the LCD screen from scratching. I have to ask why? On a couple of occasions the ShieldZone fortunately was tough enough to keep my LCD from being severly scratched.

5. Wireless remote: hadn't thought about batteries. Does it operate independently of the hot shoe? Where do you mount the receiver if you have a flash in the hot shoe?

7. Filters:

Unless you want to spend your time changing filters (in cold, with gloves) get a polarizer for each lens you expect to want to do polarizer shots with. The P rectangular will be too small for the 16-35 II (your 82 mm, I presume). You'd want the 4" (Cokin Z size) instead.

Cokin has now come out with a wide angle slim holder for one filter only. Different from the P holder that can hold multiple filters.

And plan something to keep your gear from getting condensation over and inside it when you go back inside. Also something to protect against windblown snow and/or sea spray. OpTech Rain Sleeves for throwaway or Kata E-702 would be my suggestions for the latter. A bunch of big plastic trash bags for the former - put the whole bag in it before coming back inside, and squeeze all the air you can out before fastening it.Jon, thank for addressing this issue; I am assuming you are recalling another post of mine indicating that I was going to Antartica as part of my time in South America.

For the trip from the ship to shore I am going to get a SeaLine 35ltr waterproof bag for the camera bag and other gear.

I assume you have been shooting somewhere in the snow; please expand on the condensation problem and how to avoid.

Thanks again, Jay

[bohdank]

I have yet to scratch the LCD on my 40D and I don't baby it. I think you'll find that the LCD cover is harder to scratch than the protectors one normally puts on top of them. They are also replaceable... haven't had to do so but others have mentioned the price is between $25-$35 (I don't remember the actual price).

You can let the wireless receiver just dangle from it's cord, which is what I usually do, when using a flash, indoors. It's very light.

[SuzyView]

I don't know if you have enough battery power. I know I lose all juice when I'm in the cold. Will you have access to a charger?

[Jon]

Thanks guys for answering; super high posters and you are still on line - cool!

3. LCD protector: you have all asked why and/or indicated that you do not do anything to keep the LCD screen from scratching. I have to ask why? On a couple of occasions the ShieldZone fortunately was tough enough to keep my LCD from being severly scratched.
My 20D and 5D have been through a lot - much of the paint is gone around edges, but the screens (which are actually screen covers) are fine. And a replacement screen cover is quite inexpensive and easily user replaceable.
5. Wireless remote: hadn't thought about batteries. Does it operate independently of the hot shoe? Where do you mount the receiver if you have a flash in the hot shoe?
They don't draw power from the camera; they'd mount (if at all) in any accessory shoe, "hot" or not. And they can just dangle from a string or wrist loop (don't let them hang from the trigger cord; they may pull free).
7. Filters:

Unless you want to spend your time changing filters (in cold, with gloves) get a polarizer for each lens you expect to want to do polarizer shots with. The P rectangular will be too small for the 16-35 II (your 82 mm, I presume). You'd want the 4" (Cokin Z size) instead.

Cokin has now come out with a wide angle slim holder for one filter only. Different from the P holder that can hold multiple filters.
Yes, but the 3" filters aren't as wide as the front diameter of your 82 mm thread lens. So you'd get vignetting on it. I have the Cokin Wide. It vignettes even on my 24-70/5D combo at the wide end. And that's a 77 mm filter thread.
Jon, thank for addressing this issue; I am assuming you are recalling another post of mine indicating that I was going to Antartica as part of my time in South America.

For the trip from the ship to shore I am going to get a SeaLine 35ltr waterproof bag for the camera bag and other gear.

I assume you have been shooting somewhere in the snow; please expand on the condensation problem and how to avoid.

Thanks again, JayActually you mentioned Antarctica in connection with your batteries in your opening post. Condensation isn't particularly related to snow, more to coming in from the cold under any conditions. Ever had (or seen) a pair of glasses fog up when coming from outdoors to a warm house on a cold day? Seen condensation on a cold drink on a hot day? It's the same thing. You want something that will keep the condensation from occurring on your camera, flash, lenses, etc. when you come back inside. Usually, just leaving it bundled up in your (closed) bag until everything's come to room temperature (which may take a few hours, especially with a padded bag) will be enough, but it's safer to put the bag, or the individual components if you want to speed up the equilibration process, into a plastic bag and close that up tightly [i]before you go inside. This is so the air that's around the gear is the drier outside air, not the relatively moister indoor air. It's the reverse of the situation you'll find leaving an air-conditioned building or car in humid tropical conditions, when you'd need to seal your gear before going outside.

[tvphotog]

I would second the lack of need for a screen protector. The LCD screen on the camera is scratch resistant, and replacing it is cheap and easy.

What about backup? Are you taking a laptop for this? Even if you are, it's a good idea to have a triple backup by using a small external harddrive such as the Hyperdrive, they don't have to be that expensive (see this thread...http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=671532.) On a once in a lifetime trip, it's a good idea to have multiple copies of photos.

[colbyb25]

I don't know about everyone else here, but I am a firm believer in LCD screen covers. I do a lot of adventure/travel photography and the least I can do is protect all my screens from scratches. My 1D Mark III has 3 LCD screens on it and the 5D Mark II has 2. For me it isn't to protect it from massive scratches, but rather the small ones that add up over time on what I would consider a properly/heavily used camera body.

So that being said I always recommend Zagg products (www.zagg.com). I have their screen covers on all my LCDs for my bodies and have no regrets. They are extremely high quality and don't mess with the colors of the screens. Having a LCD screen cover will also raise the re-sale value of your bodies as each one of my screens are like they were they day I bought each camera body.

[bohdank]

My 40D doesn't even have micro scratches on it. I still think a protector is a waste of money and is inexpensivley replaceable if someone takes a file to it.

The Zagg costs about 1/2 the price of replacing the built in Canon one.