Turns to Black

[omagnas]

This is an older shot from '07 of the Milky Way taken in the local park. I fired the flash off to light up the trees because it was quite dark where we were. Thoughts and CC welcome.

[Cougar548]

This is an incredible shot! I love it! I've tried to take shots like this in the past and I didn't even come close. Can I ask how you set it up and what your settings where? Thanks!

[Crazy Horse]

beautiful,

Could I ask which settings were used?

[omagnas]

This is an incredible shot! I love it! I've tried to take shots like this in the past and I didn't even come close. Can I ask how you set it up and what your settings where? Thanks!

Sure thing, you'll need a tripod, shutter remote and a nice dark area to shoot in. My settings were, Tv(Shutter Speed) 30Sec., Av(Aperture Value) F3.5, Metering Modes Split metering, ISO Speed 1600, Focal Length 10.0 mm. Hope that helps!

[LiquidSword]

Nice job. I plan on taking lots of sky pics when I go to Arizona Next week.

[Cougar548]

Sure thing, you'll need a tripod, shutter remote and a nice dark area to shoot in. My settings were, Tv(Shutter Speed) 30Sec., Av(Aperture Value) F3.5, Metering Modes Split metering, ISO Speed 1600, Focal Length 10.0 mm. Hope that helps!

Thanks for the info! I find it interesting that you used F3.5. I would think you would want to set it to a higher number like F11-18 to get more in focus? Is there a reason to use a smaller number with Astrophotography that I'm not aware of (complete beginner here in regards to astrophotography). Also, with the high ISO, could you not bring it down a little bit and increase your exposure time to decrease the noise? I'm just thinking about what I already know about landscape photography and am trying to make the connections. Thanks!

[Sorarse]

Thanks for the info! I find it interesting that you used F3.5. I would think you would want to set it to a higher number like F11-18 to get more in focus? Is there a reason to use a smaller number with Astrophotography that I'm not aware of (complete beginner here in regards to astrophotography). Also, with the high ISO, could you not bring it down a little bit and increase your exposure time to decrease the noise? I'm just thinking about what I already know about landscape photography and am trying to make the connections. Thanks!

A lot of those stars are very, very faint. Using a large aperture lets in a lot more light, and increases the chance of capturing some of those fainter stars.

[GPFocussed]

That is a beautiful shot. I like how the trees are lit up as they provide another colour dimension to the photograph. You definately had a good clear sky to work with considering the amount of stars you got exposed on a 30 second exposure! Good job!

With regards to the noise how about if the shutter was set to 'bulb' mode so a longer exposure could be made and thus reduce the ISO to reduce the noise?

[omagnas]

A lot of those stars are very, very faint. Using a large aperture lets in a lot more light, and increases the chance of capturing some of those fainter stars.

yes this is basically why i shoot with it wide open. if the moon is out for instance i might shoot with a smaller aperture.

[cruiser]

Thats a fantastic shot. Well done.

Brett

[Nighthound]

This is an excellent shot. The flash worked very well, another approach would be to paint the foreground with a flashlight but your method worked great. Nice work.

Thanks for the info! I find it interesting that you used F3.5. I would think you would want to set it to a higher number like F11-18 to get more in focus? Is there a reason to use a smaller number with Astrophotography that I'm not aware of (complete beginner here in regards to astrophotography). Also, with the high ISO, could you not bring it down a little bit and increase your exposure time to decrease the noise? I'm just thinking about what I already know about landscape photography and am trying to make the connections. Thanks!

The objective is to gather the most light possible within the exposure time limitation, which is roughly 30 seconds with a 10mm lens. Beyond that the Earth's rotation will become evident. Shooting at f/3.5 and 800-1600 ISO just helps to get as many photons as possible with each exposure. Noise is best handled by stacking multiple exposures in software programs written for astro work. Dark frames (exposures taken with lens cap on, same exposure/settings as other frames taken through the night) can be subtracted from the stack to remove most of the noise. My exposure times with a DSLR are around 5 minutes (using a German equatorial mount) on average at ISO 1600. By stacking 30-50 frames the noise is reduced and the signal raised enough that post process noise reduction(I use Noels' Astro Tools for PS) can all but eliminate unwanted noise, at least to a level I can be happy with.

Dedicated astro CCD cameras are thermoelectrically or liquid cooled which allows for very long exposures with minimal noise. They're also extremely light sensitive. Way above my budget, but they are the best tool for the job when imaging with a telescope.

[omagnas]

This is an excellent shot. The flash worked very well, another approach would be to paint the foreground with a flashlight but your method worked great. Nice work.



The objective is to gather the most light possible within the exposure time limitation, which is roughly 30 seconds with a 10mm lens. Beyond that the Earth's rotation will become evident. Shooting at f/3.5 and 800-1600 ISO just helps to get as many photons as possible with each exposure. Noise is best handled by stacking multiple exposures in software programs written for astro work. Dark frames (exposures taken with lens cap on, same exposure/settings as other frames taken through the night) can be subtracted from the stack to remove most of the noise. My exposure times with a DSLR are around 5 minutes (using a German equatorial mount) on average at ISO 1600. By stacking 30-50 frames the noise is reduced and the signal raised enough that post process noise reduction(I use Noels' Astro Tools for PS) can all but eliminate unwanted noise, at least to a level I can be happy with.

Dedicated astro CCD cameras are thermoelectrically or liquid cooled which allows for very long exposures with minimal noise. They're also extremely light sensitive. Way above my budget, but they are the best tool for the job when imaging with a telescope.

thank you very much! thank you for all the info too, much appreciated!!

[Karl Johnston]

Oh wow, are those flowers on the bottom? Fantastic scene.

[omagnas]

Oh wow, are those flowers on the bottom? Fantastic scene.

thank you for the comment, much appreciated! i think the grass was kind of damp and the flash lit it up, i don't remember though lol :)

[xoldboy]

i love this shot! good job

[GDane123]

Aside from the built-in flash, would it be possible to do work like this with the SX10?

[omagnas]

Aside from the built-in flash, would it be possible to do work like this with the SX10?

if you can do 30 second exposures with that camera i would imagine it would be possible. you might be able to get it with 15 sec. exposure if the aperture can open high enough.