View Full Version : 20 D settings for stage photography?
sugar_babygirli
17th of April 2005 (Sun), 18:03
Hey!
Please help me out here all of you who have the 20 D. I've used my Minolta S404 (before getting the Canon of course :p ) to shoot dancers on stage at a performance and was on spot metering/aperture priority/and used exposure compensation but can't remember if it was +2 or -2 that I had it set on (it was quite awhile ago).
So I'm planning on doing the same thing with my Canon, but have no clue what settings to put it on since it doesn't have spot metering. I'd use partial metering, correct? I got really great photos with the Minolta that weren't overexposed on the face and weren't blurry from movement and that's how I'd like to do again.
And yes, I've read the manual, but precise settings would help give me a ballpark figure on where to start. ;) Thanks ahead of time very much!
tim
17th of April 2005 (Sun), 18:05
Have a read of this (http://www.photo.net/learn/concerts/mirarchi/concer_1.htm), it should answer all your questions and more besides :)
cmM
17th of April 2005 (Sun), 22:01
partial metering
AI servo
Center point AF
RAW!!!
Use flash if you have one
As large of an aperture as possible
tim
17th of April 2005 (Sun), 22:08
Use flash if you have one
And if you're allowed too.
As large of an aperture as possible
Unless you want a large DOF.
cmM
17th of April 2005 (Sun), 23:12
Unless you want a large DOF.
Given the lighting at most concerts and such events, I doubt she'll have the luxury of making a choice.
tim
17th of April 2005 (Sun), 23:16
Yeah, I know, just pointing it out, and I should probably suggest a solution too - narrower aperture and a higher ISO setting.
sugar_babygirli
18th of April 2005 (Mon), 06:39
Thanks very much for your help! Um....as far as AI servo, I have tried and tried with that and haven't gotten one good photo with it. If a persons body is moving, it often gets an arm or leg clearly, but the face is out of focus. I have 95% good photos with just focusing normally and anticipating, but thanks for all the other advice I'll try that! :)
The other settings I forgot to mention on my Minolta was I was shooting at F 3.0, ISO 400, and around a 1/90--1/125 shutter speed, so I think I'll be ok with the 20 D since ISO can go up to 3200 and 1600 isn't too shabby.
I'm just scared of it overexposing on the face since there's no spot metering, but apparantely partial metering can work. As far as apertures, I have the 85mm 1.8 and just ordered the Tamron 28-75 f 2.8 so I have a great range to work with, but haven't gotten very many good shots with them wide open because DOF is so small. Probably put it at around 3.0-4.0.
Thanks all and please give more responce if there's anything to add!
JoeTampa
18th of April 2005 (Mon), 06:53
You've got a lot of lattitude with the ISO on the 20D - use it. Crank it up to where you can shoot with a reasonable DoF and shutter speed. The AI Focus is quite accurate; it sounds to me like you had too shallow of a DoF or were not tracking the dancer accurately. I've used it for many different things (birds, stage performers, and ballplayers) all with great results. You HAVE to keep the AF point on the target, though, or it refocuses quickly - which is hard to see in low light.
- Joe
Vampire Parrot
18th of April 2005 (Mon), 08:43
Don't be afraid to use the higher ISO settings with a 20D. Pics taken at an ISO of 3200 still look great, and if you do find the grain (digital noise) distracting then you can reduce it with Noise Ninja or similar products.
For example : http://www.vampireparrot.com/gallery/marwellzoo/IMG_0845
This hasn't been processed with Noise Ninja because it didn't need it...
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