Brass vs Aluminium mount filter

[danielyamseng]

What's the difference between these two mount?

What's the advantage each of the mount?

[René Damkot]

Brass won't "seize up" on the aluminium lens thread.. Alu is cheaper.
Get the brass one. B+H MRC or so.

[Grentz]

That's the claim at least. The funny thing is brass if fairly soft as well like aluminum, and some have reported having issues with the brass seizing as well.

It should prevent seizing by corrosion, though this is less of a concern these days with less and less lenses that have metal threads.

[danielyamseng]

Then how do I know which lens has metal type mounting? Does 50mm f1.4 has metal mounting?

[argyle]

Aluminum has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than brass (about 20% higher), which gives it a greater chance to seize up, as Rene puts it. Another +1 for brass.

[danielyamseng]

Would the Aluminium would wear off the lens mount lens over the time?

Looks like brass mount is superior than the aluminium. Thus let say If I have aliminium mount filter, is it recommended to change it to the brass type?

For a filter like B+W, does the filter optical quality for both type is the same?

[jhom]

According to B+W, both alloy and brass ring mounted filters use the same Shott glass. The optical qualities will be the same. Only the mounts are different.

[bohdank]

I usually swear trying to get my Hoya SMC CPL off my step up ring(s).

[ben_r_]

Brass is higher quality IMO as well. Just spend the extra and get the brass.

[jrsforums]

I usually swear trying to get my Hoya SMC CPL off my step up ring(s).

You can get brass stepup rings. The only cost a little more than, good quality, AL (alloy) ones.

[Tsmith]

Note also that not all B+W Filters are made with Brass. Some are Aluminum and pretty sure all there Slim type are Aluminum. The F-Pro series in Brass.

[bohdank]

You can get brass stepup rings. The only cost a little more than, good quality, AL (alloy) ones.

I'll have to see if I can find some. I usually struggle for a considerable amount of time trying to seperate them. I'm sure there is some optimum method for removing them but I haven't, through infrequent use, figired it out.

No problem at all removing the CPL from my 10-22.

[jrsforums]

...optimum method for removing them...

Filter Wrench
62-77mm http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/251749-REG/General_Brand__Filter_Wrench_Set_of.html
48-48mm http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70726-REG/General_Brand__Filter_Wrench_48_58mm_Set.html

Take up almost no room in the bag, particularly if you use a rubber band to keep them closed.

Heliopan makes very good, brass step up rings. About 2x allow rings (and 3x cheap ones).

Not only will they not bind, but the build quality makes them thread much easier. I have some and they are great.

You can save money by "nesting" the filters to meet your lens sizes. For example, using a 67-77, 58-67, and 52-58. This allows you to use your 77mm filters on your 67mm, 58mm, and 52mm lenses. Vignetting is not a problem. Of course, the 77mm filter will preclude using a hood...but you knew that.

[bohdank]

Ya, I think I'll just buy the "wrench" although there is precious little flange on the ring itself to grab hold of. I'm going to try and make one first, just to test the "concept".

Thanks.

[Kuma]

Note also that not all B+W Filters are made with Brass. Some are Aluminum and pretty sure all there Slim type are Aluminum. The F-Pro series in Brass.

Brass is good. But make sure if your looking at B+W if its a brass one or aluminum.

[argyle]

Ya, I think I'll just buy the "wrench" although there is precious little flange on the ring itself to grab hold of. I'm going to try and make one first, just to test the "concept".

Thanks.

Try two thin sheets of rubber...usually sold in the kitchen section of a department store or grocery store (used for opening jar lids). Put one in each palm of your hands, and sandwich the filter/step ring between them...a little light pressure while turning should do it. Just don't try to separate them by squeezing between your thumbs and forefingers...this type of grip will usually elongate them, which won't work. Best thing about the rubber grips is they're light, cheap, foldable, and take up next to no room in your bag.

[bohdank]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll work something out. If it was a problem removing the CPL from the lens that would be a lot easier to figure out. Because of the step up, there is a very thin "flange" on the ring to grip with one hand, and the filter rim with the other.

[jr_senator]

Brass is stronger as well. Just one of the reasons I only use B+W or Heliopan filters.

[jrsforums]

Ya, I think I'll just buy the "wrench" although there is precious little flange on the ring itself to grab hold of. I'm going to try and make one first, just to test the "concept".

Thanks.

The concept of the wrench is even pressure around the filter and/or filter ring.

When you do this by hand, your finger(s)/thumb will place uneven pressure, which will slightly distort the filter, making it tighter and more difficult to remove. (Brass will be less effected than alloy as the brass is usually a bit stronger)

When you just have a filter on a lens, you can use a rubberized surface to grab the front end of the filter (even pressure around) and twist. This does not work well with stacks if the stack twists off the lens and then need to separate the stack. It also does not work with CPs.