Which ND filter - 1.0/1.2/1.5/1.8

[GoneTomorrow]

I have a .9 (3 stops) ND filter, but I'm finding them not dark enough when shooting long-shutter waterfall shots. To get 1" shutter speeds using my .9 ND filter, I'm having to use ridiculously narrow apertures like f/22 and up, which gets the shutter speed I need, but results in serious softness. The lighting conditions are bright diffused late afternoon sunshine and I don't have the advantage of nice shaded waterfalls here.

I've noticed that there are darker ND filters: 1.0/1.2/1.5/1.8, which is a good number with out getting too dark in late afternoon bright sunshine? Forgive the question, but would stacking two .9 ND filters be at all efficacious?

[Jon]

If you want to get away from f/22, the 1.8 (6 stop, 64x) would give you 3 stops, or f/8 instead of f/22. You could get the effect by stacking 2x 0.9 ND as well, but the extra air-filter interfaces might cause some problems/

[GoneTomorrow]

Ok, thanks, I'll look into 1.8.

[bzollinger]

This is my current dilemma. The 1.8 looks like the ticket because of the same issues that you're facing.

My question is can you see through the 1.8 when it's on? And does anyone sell a multi-coated 1.8?

Also I've heard that you can see through a dark ND filter better w/ live view is this correct? Has anyone heard of this or seen this?

thanks,
BZ

[Jon]

I wouldn't expect to see through it very well. It's going to be like usign DoF preview to stop your lens down to f/22 and trying to see anything. If your camera boosts the gain on the image, yes, LiveView will help you see better. I think they call it "Exposure preview" on some models.

[GoneTomorrow]

I ordered a B+W 1.8 ND from Maxsaver recently, can't wait to get it!

[Shadowblade]

Get the Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo combined variable density ND filter and polariser- it's *the* filter for waterfalls and other moving water.

[GoneTomorrow]

Get the Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo combined variable density ND filter and polariser- it's *the* filter for waterfalls and other moving water.

Jesus, it's $390.00! I can't spend that much on a filter unfortunately, but it does look like an ideal filter.

[bzollinger]

Jesus, it's $390.00! I can't spend that much on a filter unfortunately, but it does look like an ideal filter.

This is exactly my reaction. Also with at 10mm there has to be some serious vinetting. The vari-n-dou is a thick sucker!

I love the concept. Too bad no other company hasn't come out with a competing product. Singh-Ray being the only one, keeps the price sky high!>:(

[rklepper]

Jesus, it's $390.00! I can't spend that much on a filter unfortunately, but it does look like an ideal filter.

HAHA. According to the companies website that is their introductory pricing.

[bzollinger]

Just ordered the B+W 1.8 filter from Maxsaver.net yesterday. I'm excited to use it. I also ordered step up rings so I can use it on all my lenses. This will be my first B+W so I'm interested in trying it out.

I'll post back after I get a chance to play w/ it and hopefully get a couple nice samples.

[GoneTomorrow]

Just ordered the B+W 1.8 filter from Maxsaver.net yesterday. I'm excited to use it. I also ordered step up rings so I can use it on all my lenses. This will be my first B+W so I'm interested in trying it out.

I'll post back after I get a chance to play w/ it and hopefully get a couple nice samples.

They take forever to ship, but it's worth for the price!

Took these last weekend with the B+W 1.8 ND:

1.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/GoneTomorrow/IMG_7744_.jpg

2.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/GoneTomorrow/IMG_7772_.jpg

3.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/GoneTomorrow/IMG_7738_.jpg

4.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/GoneTomorrow/IMG_7753_.jpg

[Steph_in_Oregon]

Very nice :-)

[GoneTomorrow]

Very nice :-)

Thanks! ;)

[nexeh]

Nice, make's the 1.8 worth while to get. :D

[bzollinger]

Nice work GoneTomorrow, I really like the second one!

[GoneTomorrow]

Nice work GoneTomorrow, I really like the second one!

Thank you!

[studiophoto.com.au]

I'd go with the darker one. Buy a lighter one later if you think you need it.

[bzollinger]

Hey GoneTomorrow (or anyone else who has a 6 stop ND), I've got a question for you. Are you able to compose your shots with the filter on? Or are you attaching the filter after composition? Also have you tried liveview with the filter on, can you "see" more that way? I'm sure that it matters on the ambient light.

Thanks, I'm trying to get an basic idea of what it's going to be like to use the B+W 1.8 filter.

[GoneTomorrow]

Hey GoneTomorrow (or anyone else who has a 6 stop ND), I've got a question for you. Are you able to compose your shots with the filter on? Or are you attaching the filter after composition? Also have you tried liveview with the filter on, can you "see" more that way? I'm sure that it matters on the ambient light.

Thanks, I'm trying to get an basic idea of what it's going to be like to use the B+W 1.8 filter.

In bright light, you can make out the frame in viewfinder, but if you're in the shade, it's hard to make anything out. For this, Live View is a lifesaver. Denigrate it all you want, but Live View has its uses. It also has an auto gain feature which brightens the screen if the area is dark, which is why it's excellent when using such a dark ND filter.

[bzollinger]

In bright light, you can make out the frame in viewfinder, but if you're in the shade, it's hard to make anything out. For this, Live View is a lifesaver. Denigrate it all you want, but Live View has its uses. It also has an auto gain feature which brightens the screen if the area is dark, which is why it's excellent when using such a dark ND filter.

:D:D

This is what I was hoping for. I had heard about LiveView but nothing as useful and direct. Thanks for the info. I'll post back in a few weeks after getting the ND and some photos.

[bzollinger]

I finally had a chance to get out with the new filter. Here are a few samples. The greenery in Alaska is still not full yet. Not a bad start though. The weather was pretty overcast and there was some pretty heavy tree cover. The 1.8/6 stop ND filter was almost too much, but with a little bump in the ISO, and opening the aperture a little I was able to keep the shutter speeds down to a comfortable setting except when it was windy. There is some blurring because of the wind and shutter speeds but will have to work on that more.

http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/fallscreek09_1.jpg


http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/fallscreek09_2.jpg


http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/fallscreek09_3.jpg


http://alaskanphotographs.com/forums/fallscreek09_4.jpg

[GoneTomorrow]

These all look great bzollinger, esp. 2 and 3. I prefer the WB temperature on water shots to be cooler personally. And I'm jealous of the locale, I'd love to get my camera to Alaska. Ever see A. Borealis there?

[bzollinger]

Hey thanks,

Alaska is great! I have seen the N lights many times. This last winter wasn't very productive for where I was. It's really hit or miss, in the city unless you're way out on the outskirts you usually won't see them. You kind of have to go hunting for them and spend a lot of time with your fingers crossed.

There are a few places where your chances of see them are very good, like the Brooks Range. But require a fly out to a lodge, to spend a week+, and a bunch of $$. You can see them on the road system but usually have to be north and away from any/all city lights.

I'm no expert but have read up on it a little.

[BigDaveE]

Looking into geting one of these as well. Do you still recommend the 1.8 if I'll be using it with a CP? If I get the B+W 1.8, does it scew on, on top of the B+W CP I already have? I have the MRC CP...

Thanks!

[GoneTomorrow]

Looking into geting one of these as well. Do you still recommend the 1.8 if I'll be using it with a CP? If I get the B+W 1.8, does it scew on, on top of the B+W CP I already have? I have the MRC CP...

Thanks!

Stacking the 1.8 with a CPL will make it seriously dark, you may have to use live view to see anything at all depending on the lighting. Before I had a 1.8 ND I was stacking a CPL with a .9 and it still wasn't dark enough to give you some idea. There are ND filters between .9 and 1.8 but they were hard for me to find.

And it should screw on to your CPL provided that isn't a wide-angle CPL (even then you can just stack the CPL onto the ND filter).

[Dan Martin]

I've got a full set of B+W ND filters all the way up to 3.0 and I have to say I rarely use any of the lighter ones. In fact, I often stack the 3.0 and 1.8. Sure, you can't see anything through the viewfinder, but it's a pain I'm willing to put up with for the unique results.

[bzollinger]

Looking into geting one of these as well. Do you still recommend the 1.8 if I'll be using it with a CP? If I get the B+W 1.8, does it scew on, on top of the B+W CP I already have? I have the MRC CP...

Thanks!

Excuse my ignorance, but what it the effect you're looking for by stacking the ND and CPL?

[GoneTomorrow]

I've got a full set of B+W ND filters all the way up to 3.0 and I have to say I rarely use any of the lighter ones. In fact, I often stack the 3.0 and 1.8. Sure, you can't see anything through the viewfinder, but it's a pain I'm willing to put up with for the unique results.

That's seriously dark. So how do you frame your shots and focus? Do you just trust the AF or do you compose with the filters off first, then put them on? What kind of shots do you take which require that much light reduction? Just curious.

Excuse my ignorance, but what it the effect you're looking for by stacking the ND and CPL?

Presumably to use the features of both filters, i.e. removing glare/reflection from surfaces (etc.) with the CPL with the light dampening of the ND. Plus the CPL adds a bit more light dampening on top of what the ND offers.

[bzollinger]

I supose so. There isn't much reflected light in my photos above but I guess if it was sunny then there would be.

Has anyone got any samples of an ND and CPL stacked? That might be interesting to see.

thanks,
BZ

[Kaben]

Just pulled the trigger on a B+W 110 ND (10-stop) filter. Cant wait to try it out, both for streams and for removing pedestrians from high-street shots!

[rang]

Jesus, it's $390.00! I can't spend that much on a filter unfortunately, but it does look like an ideal filter.

You can do this for way, way less than $390.00.
I did it with two Hoya's

Camera lens-->Circular Polarizer-->Linear Polarizer | Waterfall

http://dmcphoto.com/Articles/VariableND/index.html

:lol:

[Dan Martin]

That's seriously dark. So how do you frame your shots and focus? Do you just trust the AF or do you compose with the filters off first, then put them on? What kind of shots do you take which require that much light reduction? Just curious.
Yes, you have to compose and focus without the filters, then you just screw them on before your shot.

I use stacked NDs to let me show the viewer how the subject interacts with its environment over longer periods of time than you would normally get in a photograph. Here's one for example:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/2947434229_da4fa84b43_b.jpg

This was shot around 4:00 in the afternoon, so the sun was still pretty bright, but the NDs cut that down to let me expose for two and half minutes.

[bzollinger]

You can do this for way, way less than $390.00.
I did it with two Hoya's

Camera lens-->Circular Polarizer-->Linear Polarizer | Waterfall

http://dmcphoto.com/Articles/VariableND/index.html

:lol:

This is pretty cool. Have you done this yourself? It's a curious experiment...

[bzollinger]

Just pulled the trigger on a B+W 110 ND (10-stop) filter. Cant wait to try it out, both for streams and for removing pedestrians from high-street shots!

10 stops, wow! I'd like to see some results with that baby. I'm very happy that I can actually see through the 6 stop B&W, and live view does help.

Post back when you can!

[Jon]

You can do this for way, way less than $390.00.
I did it with two Hoya's

Camera lens-->Circular Polarizer-->Linear Polarizer | Waterfall

http://dmcphoto.com/Articles/VariableND/index.html

:lol:Unless you get a very good pair of polarizers, you may find the combination tends toward (in my experience, with Hoyas) a deep blue, due to uneven frequency response.

[bzollinger]

Hoyas are particularly cheap, so this might be a little more spendy than thought.

Do you have any samples to show us?

[Jon]

It's even obvious to the naked eye, which is about the most basic test you can apply, since post-processing in the brain does an incredible job of white balancing. Since it was so pronounced, I've never even tried photographing with the combo.

[bzollinger]

It's even obvious to the naked eye, which is about the most basic test you can apply, since post-processing in the brain does an incredible job of white balancing. Since it was so pronounced, I've never even tried photographing with the combo.

Oops, I meant to say "Hoyas aren't particularly cheap", but the effect was that bad? That's interesting. Another good idea that is difficult to implement. I like the idea of variable ND, but until others start to make them and compete with Singh-Ray we're left with limited options.

I wonder if anyone else here has tried this with better results and if so which filters did they use?

[Jon]

Very definite midnight blue with them.