Combining Skyports with Mini/Flex and Hypersync

[pnmd]

So Robert posed a question about combining the Mini/Flex and Skyports with an Elinchrom 600.
Goal: use the Mini/Flex to hypersync in addition to using the Skyport to change the power on the RX600.

First the skyport alone at 1/200, all at F9:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/skyport200.jpg

skyport at 1/250:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/skyport250.jpg

skyport at 1/320:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/skyport320.jpg

------------------
I have a Canon 50D and mounted a MiniTT1 on it then taped the flash mount and placed the Skyport on top of that. Using the Skyport to change the power on the RX600 worked flawlessly.

RX600 with FLexTT5 and Skyport:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/IMG_7604.jpg

FLex at 1/200:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/Flex200.jpg

Flex at 1/250:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/Flex250.jpg

Flex at 1/320:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/Flex320.jpg

Flex at 1/400:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt130/pnmd/Flex400.jpg

The Skyport shows banding at 1/250. The Mini/Flex shows banding at 1/320 but still useable.

[pnmd]

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9884-9903-9906

Rob Galbraith spent 3 PAGES talking about hypersync with his Dyna-lites.

"The EOS-1D Mark III, EOS-1D Mark II N and EOS-1D Mark II are the only camera models capable of a nearly-clean 1/500 using the first HyperSync mode, but all Canon cameras will see a one or two step increase in usable shutter sync speed compared to previous PocketWizard transmitters. The bump is greater still when compared to certain other wireless triggering devices.

In Canon's lineup, the EOS 5D and 5D Mark II bring up the rear. While the first method of HyperSync still allows for a one or two shutter speed step wireless bump with these models, their maximum standard sync speeds are relatively slow to begin with. Therefore, a clean 1/250 is all we've been able to achieve with our Dyna-Lite sports strobe configuration. Other Canon models fall in-between 1/250 and 1/500; the 40D and 50D, for example, can manage a fairly clean 1/400."

As Galbraith states, my 50D "can manage a fairly clean 1/400" but that involves changing HyperSync Offset value on my MiniTT1. I haven't tried it yet.

He talks about hypersync and the 5D Mark II here:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9884-9903-9907

BTW- intially I used the wrong sync cable and it didn't work. You need a 3.5mm MONO sync cable. Patrick Clow with PW explains:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/pocketwizards/discuss/72157617785865340/

[pnmd]

Why would you want to do all this:
Despite some significant restrictions on its usability, this HyperSync mode may be among the few ways to balance or overcome sunny day ambient with your strobe, in those situations when a Canon or Nikon flash in high speed synchronization mode doesn't have enough jam to light the scene (which is often the case in our experience). (http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9884-9903-9906)

[pnmd]

Can I remote trigger my RX600 with my Sekonic L358 since I have the Mini/Flex attached to the RX600?

[TMR Design]

Hi,

Thanks for conducting those tests. So you didn't have to tape of contacts? You just mounted the Skyport transmitter on top of the TT1 and it worked?

1/320s looks good but I'd be curious to see that test shot against a white background. It looks like you might be getting a hint of curtain at 1/320s.

I see you posted a question about the Sekonic meter. I'm assuming you don't have the meter to know the answer to that question. As long as there's a Pocket Wizard feeding sync to the strobe then there's no reason why the Sekonic meter won't trigger the strobe.

[fi20100]

Hi,

Thanks for conducting those tests. So you didn't have to tape of contacts? You just mounted the Skyport transmitter on top of the TT1 and it worked?


He did say he taped it.

[TMR Design]

He did say he taped it.

Thanks Stefan. I missed that.

[fi20100]

Thanks Stefan. I missed that.

Np :) Anyway, this is good news... this means you can get the best of both worlds :)

[Palladium]

Well the missing variable is HyperSync Offset.

Don't forget you have the ability to adjust the Offset to better match the triggers with your strobes. Out of the box the offset is set up for Canon speedlights. You adjust the offset with the PW utility.

I'll add: on the Sync Timming tab on the PW utility

you also have the ability to change the SS when the High Speed Sync (FP Flash Sync) kicks in - @ default is at 1/400 but in my experience, well try it yourself set to 1/640 and see if that doesn't help.

you can also disable the High Speed Sync but still adjust the Offset to dial in your setting to match your gear.

[Palladium]

I'll hi-jack a little

using my last statement above

you can also disable the High Speed Sync but still adjust the Offset to dial in your setting to match your gear.

using these settings

disabled High Speed Sync and setting the Offset to -800 I get clean images all the way to 1/640 (Mark III w/mini - profoto's with built in PW)

[TMR Design]

Hmm Interesting. Thank you.

[Palladium]

Just now using these settings

disabled High Speed Sync and setting the Offset to -1400 I get clean images all the way to 1/800 (Mark III w/mini - profoto's with built in PW)

Top image is @ 1/800 (clean) and the bottom is @ 1/1000 and starts to show the shutter.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9543/img8938w.jpg
Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS-1D Mark III
Image Date: 2009:05:07 09:39:32
Flash Used: Yes (Manual)
Focal Length: 70.0mm
CCD Width: 5.79mm
Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual


http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6079/img8939w.jpg
Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS-1D Mark III
Image Date: 2009:05:07 09:39:39
Flash Used: Yes (Manual)
Focal Length: 70.0mm
CCD Width: 5.79mm
Exposure Time: 0.0010 s (1/1000)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual

[TMR Design]

Great stuff. Now I'm really inspired to buy into the new Pocket Wizards. I have Plus II's right now and once I get the TT1 and TT5's and know all is well I'll be selling my Plus II's.

[Palladium]

Great stuff. Now I'm really inspired to buy into the new Pocket Wizards. I have Plus II's right now and once I get the TT1 and TT5's and know all is well I'll be selling my Plus II's.

Well I havn't sold my Plus II's yet - but I havn't used them since I received the new Flex/Mini either. I will say that the new gear has paid for itself many, many times over.

[Palladium]

Just now for all the "FULL FRAMERS" using 5D and the same settings as my last example but changed the camera in the PW utility to 5D on the Misc tab in the PW utility.

disabled High Speed Sync and setting the Offset to -1400 I get clean images all the way to 1/400 (5D w/mini - profoto's with built in PW).

I don't have time today to try any other settings with the 5D but this should be a good starting off point for Offset settings.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3443/img1820w.jpg
Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 5D
Image Date: 2009:05:07 09:17:47
Flash Used: Yes (Manual)
Focal Length: 70.0mm
CCD Width: 6.58mm
Exposure Time: 0.0025 s (1/400)
Aperture: f/5.6
ISO equiv: 125
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual

[pnmd]

disabled High Speed Sync and setting the Offset to -800 I get clean images all the way to 1/640 (Mark III w/mini - profoto's with built in PW)


Great results with those pics. Do I change the settings on both the Mini and the Flex?

I just realized that there's 2 configurations. I can use C2 and it won't effect my settings for C1 when I want to use ETTL with my 580EXIIs. :)

[pnmd]

Hi,
I see you posted a question about the Sekonic meter. I'm assuming you don't have the meter to know the answer to that question. As long as there's a Pocket Wizard feeding sync to the strobe then there's no reason why the Sekonic meter won't trigger the strobe.

I suspect I need a transmitter for the Sekonic which I don't have. But I guess it should work.

[TMR Design]

I suspect I need a transmitter for the Sekonic which I don't have. But I guess it should work.

OOps. I assumed you had the transmitter module installed.

[MR do little]

I can confirm, the pw and skyport can work side by side without any problems.

I have both the skyport and pw plus II connected to my Ranger RX, This way i can control the power from the camera and meter the light wireless with my meter.

http://web.comhem.se/vainlord/skyrx.jpg

[TMR Design]

Hi Paul,

Myself and others have been doing this as well. It works great!!!!! I still like to trigger via my Sekonic L-758DR for metering and the Skyport for triggering when shooting or adjusting levels. It works the same way with the RX's as it does with the Ranger.

[Hermes]

Interesting stuff.

So how does the hypersync offset work then? logically, it would either have to fire the strobes earlier than normal or the camera later than normal - I can't for the life of me work out how it manages it.

[TMR Design]

Interesting stuff.

So how does the hypersync offset work then? logically, it would either have to fire the strobes earlier than normal or the camera later than normal - I can't for the life of me work out how it manages it.

I was under the impression that it fires the flash/strobes slightly later than normal.

[Hermes]

I was under the impression that it fires the flash/strobes slightly later than normal.

If that's all it does then can't it be configured to fire the skyport transmitter later than normal so no PW receivers are needed on the strobes?

[TMR Design]

If that's all it does then can't it be configured to fire the skyport transmitter later than normal so no PW receivers are needed on the strobes?

How would it do that? Isn't the sync jack on a Skyport transmitter an 'output' and not an 'input'?

[Hermes]

How would it do that? Isn't the sync jack on a Skyport transmitter an 'output' and not an 'input'?

Pretty sure it's an input - so you can fire it via a PC port.

[TMR Design]

Pretty sure it's an input - so you can fire it via a PC port.

Then if that's the case then the offset might have to take into account the added fractional delay, but it might very well work.

[Hermes]

Then if that's the case then the offset might have to take into account the added fractional delay, but it might very well work.

Yep, now that really would be the best of both worlds - you wouldn;t need the extra expense, extra batteries, extra cables e.t.c. of using a PW unit on each light, just one Mini/Flex set to delay the skyport - you could even pile the whole thing up onto the camera hotshoe with taped contacts.

PNMD: any chance you can try this out?

[MR do little]

Hi Paul,

Myself and others have been doing this as well. It works great!!!!! I still like to trigger via my Sekonic L-758DR for metering and the Skyport for triggering when shooting or adjusting levels. It works the same way with the RX's as it does with the Ranger.

Yea its great!! Skyport has one use for me and thats the power adjustment functions that it has on my Ranger RX and RX mono's.

I personally dont see any benefit of the universal kit, sure its cheaper and smaller then PW, but not nearly as well buildt and lacks sekonic support.

Im quite put off by the build of the skyport to be honest.

The size is nice, so is the weight, but not enough to make up for somewhat "fragile" build.

[TMR Design]

Yep, now that really would be the best of both worlds - you wouldn;t need the extra expense, extra batteries, extra cables e.t.c. of using a PW unit on each light, just one Mini/Flex set to delay the skyport - you could even pile the whole thing up onto the camera hotshoe with taped contacts.

PNMD: any chance you can try this out?

I'm not sure if it was this thread or another (the NEW POCKETWIZARD thread) but that was tested and it worked just fine. A Skyport transmitter was mounted to the top of a PW TT1 with taped contacts and it worked like a charm.

[Hermes]

I'm not sure if it was this thread or another (the NEW POCKETWIZARD thread) but that was tested and it worked just fine. A Skyport transmitter was mounted to the top of a PW TT1 with taped contacts and it worked like a charm.

Not sure I follow... was the TT1 firing the skyport transmitter or just holding it?

[TMR Design]

Yea its great!! Skyport has one use for me and thats the power adjustment functions that it has on my Ranger RX and RX mono's.

I personally dont see any benefit of the universal kit, sure its cheaper and smaller then PW, but not nearly as well buildt and lacks sekonic support.

Im quite put off by the build of the skyport to be honest.

The size is nice, so is the weight, but no enough to make up for somewhat "fragile" build.

I would have to agree with you Paul. As much as I do love the small, low profile Skyport transmitter, I've always been hooked on the seamless integration of Sekonic meters and Pocket Wizards and just don't find the Sekonic cordless auto-reset mode to my liking when using the Skyport transmitter to trigger for metering. The DIP switches on the Skyport are super cheap and flimsy. Love the functionality and form factor but not loving the build.

[TMR Design]

Pretty sure it's an input - so you can fire it via a PC port.

Nope! I just confirmed it's a sync output. :mad:

[Hermes]

Nope! I just confirmed it's a sync output. :mad:

Don't want to put any money on that do you? :)

Cuz the skyports transmitters on my desk can definitely be triggered via that 2.5mm port. I can also daisy-chain several transmitters and receivers together - they all trigger each other with no issues.

Seems like this really could work with the new PWs. Would also give some pw triggering functionality to those of you who like to trigger lights with sekonic meters without having to have a PW on each strobe.

[TMR Design]

Don't want to put any money on that do you? :)

Cuz the skyports transmitters on my desk can definitely be triggered via that 2.5mm port. I can also daisy-chain several transmitters and receivers together - they all trigger each other with no issues.

Seems like this really could work with the new PWs. Would also give some pw triggering functionality to those of you who like to trigger lights with sekonic meters without having to have a PW on each strobe.

Well, considering that I couldn't trigger the Skyport transmitter from my Sekonic meter but the Skyport could trigger my 580EXII tells me it's an output. So I really don't have to think much about whether it's an input or output, unless it's somehow wired to be both, but I don't think so.

[Hermes]

Well, considering that I couldn't trigger the Skyport transmitter from my Sekonic meter but the Skyport could trigger my 580EXII tells me it's an output. So I really don't have to think much about whether it's an input or output, unless it's somehow wired to be both, but I don't think so.

I can only guess that it does both, but it definitely does work as an input - I've just tested it and my camera's pc port will fire the transmitter and so will another skyport receiver triggered on a separate group.

Either way though, I've just read a user summary of the new PWs here :-

http://dancarrphotography.com/blog/2009/05/11/pocketwizard-tt1-review/

Would seem to suggest that the hypersync works by somehow getting the signal out to the strobes early rather than late. Still not sure what the truth of the matter is.

[TMR Design]

I can only guess that it does both, but it definitely does work as an input - I've just tested it and my camera's pc port will fire the transmitter and so will another skyport receiver triggered on a separate group.

Either way though, I've just read a user summary of the new PWs here :-

http://dancarrphotography.com/blog/2009/05/11/pocketwizard-tt1-review/

Would seem to suggest that the hypersync works by somehow getting the signal out to the strobes early rather than late. Still not sure what the truth of the matter is.

Is the 2.5mm jack on the foot of the Skyport transmitter wired as a tip/ring/sleeve 3 conductor circuit? Are you using a standard PC to 2.5mm mono plug for trigger the transmitter?

[Hermes]

No idea if the jack is mono or stereo but I'm using the standard PC to 2.5mm mono cable that comes with the skyports to trigger it - can only assume the jack is mono.

[TMR Design]

No idea if the jack is mono or stereo but I'm using the standard PC to 2.5mm mono cable that comes with the skyports to trigger it - can only assume the jack is mono.

OK, I just tested again. The first time I didn't have the PC connector seated fully in the sync out jack of the Sekonic meter. It would seem that the sync jack on the Skyport is wired as both an input and output.

I tested again and got it to work as both input and output. Pretty cool.

[Hermes]

So what do you think then - A TT1 in the camera hotshoe which radio-triggers a TT5 in its hotshoe (with hypersync delay), which in-turn triggers a Skyport transmitter in its hotshoe. :)

If it can be done and it provides a worthwhile boost in shutter-speed, I'd definitely buy the PWs to cut down on the amount of ND I need to use to reduce ambient light when outdoors.

[TMR Design]

So what do you think then - A TT1 in the camera hotshoe which radio-triggers a TT5 in its hotshoe (with hypersync delay), which in-turn triggers a Skyport transmitter in its hotshoe. :)

If it can be done and it provides a worthwhile boost in shutter-speed, I'd definitely buy the PWs to cut down on the amount of ND I need to use to reduce ambient light when outdoors.

I'm with you Hermes but I'm also confused...lolol

Are there typos in your description or am I just missing something?

[Hermes]

I'm with you Hermes but I'm also confused...lolol

Are there typos in your description or am I just missing something?

My (very uninformed) guess at how it could work would be:-

The shutter fires and the camera triggers the TT1 in its hotshoe

The TT1 (with hypersync that takes into account the total delay for everything else) triggers a TT5 which sits in its hotshoe with taped contacts.

The TT5 triggers a skyport transmitter which sits in its hotshoe - not sure if it will trigger directly via the hotshoe or if they would need to be connected via their sync jacks.

The skyport transmitter triggers the strobes.


I'm under the assumption that the hypersync only works when the TT1 triggers something by RF and not via its hotshoe, but if I'm wrong, the TT5 could be removed from the equation.

[fi20100]

So what do you think then - A TT1 in the camera hotshoe which radio-triggers a TT5 in its hotshoe (with hypersync delay), which in-turn triggers a Skyport transmitter in its hotshoe. :)

If it can be done and it provides a worthwhile boost in shutter-speed, I'd definitely buy the PWs to cut down on the amount of ND I need to use to reduce ambient light when outdoors.

But shouldn't there be an extra delay, which also has to be taken into consideration when setting the TT1 delay.


Edit: The problem here might be if the delay is too great, and that the signal can't go out before the shutter already has started to move?

(Once when I didn't have enough Skyport receivers, I connected one of them to a ST-E2, which in turn was supposed to trigger a few 430EX flashes via IR... it worked, but the sync speeds were terrible. Of course the problem was that one flash was triggered directly by a skyport, once the other two were triggered via the ST-E2.)

[TMR Design]

My (very uninformed) guess at how it could work would be:-

The shutter fires and the camera triggers the TT1 in its hotshoe

The TT1 (with hypersync that takes into account the total delay for everything else) triggers a TT5 which sits in its hotshoe with taped contacts.

The TT5 triggers a skyport transmitter which sits in its hotshoe - not sure if it will trigger directly via the hotshoe or if they would need to be connected via their sync jacks.

The skyport transmitter triggers the strobes.


I'm under the assumption that the hypersync only works when the TT1 triggers something by RF and not via its hotshoe, but if I'm wrong, the TT5 could be removed from the equation.

Hmm that may work but it sounds like Frankenstein's monster sitting on top of the camera. A TT1 with a TT5 and Skyport stacked. Eek!

[fi20100]

From what I understand, the Skyports are usually a little bit slow to start with... That's why they are recommended to be used just under the x-sync?

[Hermes]

From what I understand, the Skyports are usually a little bit slow to start with... That's why they are recommended to be used just under the x-sync?

The hypersync delay would have to be set to take account of everything else downstream in the chain. Worth a shot for someone who already owns everything needed *hint hint :)*

[fi20100]

Oh yes... and please tell if it works :) It's especially interesting if it would work with only one TT1... (and skyports of course) :)

[fi20100]

I'm just wondering how much "minus delay" one is able to set.

[fi20100]

Actually, it might just be that it works with only a TT1...

From the manual (http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/images/TT1-C.pdf)
For example, the chart below shows that the 1D Mark III camera, when using HSS triggering at 1/1000 shutter speed, will get 1.4 stops more light from the flash on top of the MiniTT1 in its shoe, and nearly 1.8 more stops from a Speedlite mounted on a remote FlexTT5.

[Hermes]

That mentions speedlites though - not sure if it will work with a non-ETTL unit in the hotshoe

[fi20100]

That mentions speedlites though - not sure if it will work with a non-ETTL unit in the hotshoe

You're right... guess we can only wait for the testing to begin :)

[pnmd]

Yep, now that really would be the best of both worlds - you wouldn;t need the extra expense, extra batteries, extra cables e.t.c. of using a PW unit on each light, just one Mini/Flex set to delay the skyport - you could even pile the whole thing up onto the camera hotshoe with taped contacts.

PNMD: any chance you can try this out?

You guys revived this thread. Previously I was able to get to 1/320. Since then I've changed the hypersync offset like Palladium recommended and I'm able to get up to 1/500 and the images are still useable.

Setup:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3370/3597458160_6742c11178.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/3596650483_9d167418ab.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3594/3596649827_e994d6b31b.jpg

All shot at F9 on my Canon 50D:

1/250
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3596647849_bd3991b984.jpg


1/320
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3310/3596649773_0250540243.jpg


1/400
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3364/3596645917_9557485e33.jpg


1/500
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2475/3597455896_1634eabeca.jpg


1/640...Banding starting to appear at the bottom
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3597452114_b9ff2c9b22.jpg

[zaldum]

CAn you please try NO taped mini and no flex on the RX???

I think it should work just using one mini (skyport on top) and triggering the RX´s just with the skyports but with the benefit of hypersync right??

And also the benefit of not buying more flex units or combine all lights 1 speedlight in ttl and strobes on manual (via skyport) all togheter.

[TMR Design]

You guys revived this thread. Previously I was able to get to 1/320. Since then I've changed the hypersync offset like Palladium recommended and I'm able to get up to 1/500 and the images are still useable.

Setup:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3370/3597458160_6742c11178.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/3596650483_9d167418ab.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3594/3596649827_e994d6b31b.jpg

All shot at F9 on my Canon 50D:

1/250
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3596647849_bd3991b984.jpg


1/320
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3310/3596649773_0250540243.jpg


1/400
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3364/3596645917_9557485e33.jpg


1/500
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2475/3597455896_1634eabeca.jpg


1/640...Banding starting to appear at the bottom
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3597452114_b9ff2c9b22.jpg



That's cool but technically you can see the curtain working its way in at 1/400 and it's visible at 1/500. Do you know if it's possible to have it perfectly clean up to 1/500s or it just a question of where it's acceptable curtain creep?

[bobbyz]

Robert, pnmd (wish knew the name):

Interesting stuff. Question, so it seems that one can have miniTT1 on the shot shoe and then connect radio trigger Tx on top with another radio Rx on the strobe (not PW unit) and be able to shoot faster than the sync speed?

If that is the case I like it. I am not clear from the pictures at the start of the thread how you guys connecting PW units and Syports on the strobe end of things? And do you need to have PW unit at all on the strobe end?

[JoshBowers]

Someone sent me here from my post.

This guy is syncing to 1/4000th and 1/8000th using Alienebees and 285HV:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/carrillophoto/3427140945/in/pool-1093343@N23

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carrillophoto/3448353356/in/pool-1093343@N23

[TMR Design]

Robert, pnmd (wish knew the name):

Interesting stuff. Question, so it seems that one can have miniTT1 on the shot shoe and then connect radio trigger Tx on top with another radio Rx on the strobe (not PW unit) and be able to shoot faster than the sync speed?

If that is the case I like it. I am not clear from the pictures at the start of the thread how you guys connecting PW units and Syports on the strobe end of things? And do you need to have PW unit at all on the strobe end?

HI Bobby,

This is the advantage of the Elinchrom RX's. They have a dedicated port for the Skyport RX as well as a standard sync jack and one does not disable the other. They both work at the same time so this allows you to connect the Skyport RX for changing power and enabling/disabling the modeling light, and the Pocket Wizard connects to the sync jack for triggering. The hypersync will happen with the TT1 on camera and a TT5 plugged in to the sync jack and power control comes from the Skyport transmitter on top of the TT1 (contacts taped) communicating with the Skyport RX plugged directly into the back of the RX strobe.

[bobbyz]

Robert, Thanks for clarifying it.

[pnmd]

CAn you please try NO taped mini and no flex on the RX???

I think it should work just using one mini (skyport on top) and triggering the RX´s just with the skyports but with the benefit of hypersync right??

And also the benefit of not buying more flex units or combine all lights 1 speedlight in ttl and strobes on manual (via skyport) all togheter.

Zaldum, you get the prize. I tried this and can't believe it worked. I shot this with no taped mini and no flex on my RX600's. I used both of my RX600's for these shots.

1/200
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3664/3604886739_0850a4cc35.jpg


1/250
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3297/3605697654_b692a10af3.jpg


1/320- shot this several times and banding always occurred at 1/320
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3606/3605699022_dbe74ecdc3.jpg


1/400
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2461/3605700230_f601e0dacd.jpg

1/500
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3630/3605701572_7541d01846.jpg


1/640
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3300/3605702910_71a20c7974.jpg


1/800
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3612/3605704206_4851f3a568.jpg

[zaldum]

AMAZING!!!!!!!! :D:D:D Thx fro trying pnmd

This is REALLY good news.

3 questions:
- Camera used?
- Same power in the strobe in all shots?
- I believe there is some PW software for fine tuning the hypersync mode, did you try some of that?

It look´s like it´s hypersync mode up to 1/320 and then it´s high speed mode from 1/400 just getting the "tail" of the flash burst (and also different color temp).

From 1/400 and higher shots are nearly unsuable (for my purposes), and even at 1/200 there is a hint of the curtain coming BUT not needing to buy more flex unit is great!!!

Some thoughts:

- Maybe the skyport is adding some delay, can you try tunig the hypersync and see if you can get even better results?
- What power did you used? (asuming it´s the same power for all shots) RX´s have shorter duration flash at full power, so maybe lowering the power also gets better shots at high speed mode.

Anyway, it´s great it works. Thx for your time ;)

And as always, sorry for my english!! :o

[pnmd]

I got 1/320 to work by changing configurations. To get 1/320 I would have to switch it from C1 to C2 or C2 to C1. Just switching the configuration button back and forth and it would work. But you only get one shot then banding would occur with the next shot.

1/320
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/3605856356_d660ddd4a1.jpg


FLEX on camera WORKS also. I shot with NO taped Flex with a Skyport on top. The results were the same as with a Mini on top. So it appears you can use either a Flex or Mini on camera and it works. I'm not posting pics because their identical.

Zaldum, I'm using a Canon 50D. The power settings are the same for all shots. One RX at 4.2 and one RX at 3.5 power setting.

There's 2 configurations on the PW. C1 is the standard setting. On C2 I increased the hypersync offset. I did NOT find any difference between C1 and C2 in terms of banding which was surprising.

Hopefully Palladium can rejoin the discussion. He's done more testing and owns a Canon 1D and 5D.

[fi20100]

Wow Peter! Thanks for testing this!!! This is very interesting!!! :)

[bobbyz]

Peter,

So that means Hypersync thing is done only on the PW transmitter side? So if I have a new PW Tx on my hot shoe, attach my cybersync Tx on top of it, I will be able to trigger the strobe with CyberSync Rx?

I know you only try with Skyports but it should work with other triggers also if it works with skyports.

[zaldum]

Yes, it´s the transmitter (you also get hypersync with the old PW´s as receivers) so it should work also with cybersync´s. :D

But Peter, i´m afraid the skyport is adding some delay here. In your first examples (flex on RX) you were getting perfect clean images at 1/250, now the curtain is coming at that speed.

Could you please do the definitive test? (if you hace the time and patience)

Same shot at 1/250:
- Skyports only
- Mini + skyport TAPED + flex on Rx
- Mini + skyport not taped + skyport only on Rx

I think you will only get 100% clear image with flex, i´m afraid the other two ways we will have the shadow of the curtain coming.